New here, just bought '90 ZR-1

[bdw18_123]

Can't wait to get it going, needs some work, but the price was right! I'm a mechanical person, so it should be a fun project.

(EDIT: Tom Crabs found my ZR-1 on eBay a couple days before I did, before I knew about this forum. Here is a link to that thread:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8282&highlight=ebay+find)



.

[HIZNHRZ]

Congrats. You came to the right place!

[tomtom72]

:hello:

Welcome to our corner of the world!
Congrats on the purchase.:thumbsup:

[tccrab]

Congratulations and Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Beast!
So you're the guy who got the eBay White '90 with the broken timing chain down in Laguna Beach. Hopefully it's just the chain and there's not head/valve/piston damage. Best of luck with that.
Regardless, you're now a member of the family, so Welcome Aboard!!
:cheers:

A couple of guys you'll want to get to know right away:
JeffVette (a.k.a. Jeff Flint)
http://www.pnwzr1.com
Jerrys Gaskets
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=0
Marc Haibec
http://www.zr1specialist.com/
Kurt White
http://whiteracingproducts.com/

There's a handful of others, but between these guys there's most everything you might need.


TomC
"Crabs"

[flyin ryan]

Welcome :). Good luck with the project.

[Nick]

White '90...:cool::thumbsup:

[tccrab]

As the founding member of the "Wet Blanket" club, I'm speechless.

Good luck with your project.

TomC
"Crabs"
WetBlanket #1

[TFENT]

Welcome to the brotherhood. I'm still a rookie myself. Have a shop down here in San Diego if you need any help give us a shout. I'll help the best I can ;)

[Jeffvette]

Added more info to the original post.

http://zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?p=59009

[bdw18_123]

Congratulations and Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Beast!
So you're the guy who got the eBay White '90 with the broken timing chain down in Laguna Beach. Hopefully it's just the chain and there's not head/valve/piston damage. Best of luck with that.
Regardless, you're now a member of the family, so Welcome Aboard!!
:cheers:

A couple of guys you'll want to get to know right away:
JeffVette (a.k.a. Jeff Flint)
http://www.pnwzr1.com
Jerrys Gaskets
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=0
Marc Haibec
http://www.zr1specialist.com/
Kurt White
http://whiteracingproducts.com/

There's a handful of others, but between these guys there's most everything you might need.


TomC
"Crabs"

Yeah, I was excited, but not so much anymore. I feel like backing out and forgetting the whole thing. I'm worried about the possible damage. I don't have another $6000 to spend on another engine, or heads (heard those cost like 5k each? Yikes... what have I gotten myself into...) Could the head possibly be repaired if the damage is not too extensive? Maybe just replace the valves?

[-=Jeff=-]

Yeah, I was excited, but not so much anymore. I'm worried about the possible damage. I don't have another $6000 to spend on an engine, or heads (heard those cost like 5k each? Yikes... what have I gotten myself into...) Could the head possibly be repaired if the damage is not too extensive? Maybe just replace the valves?

you know what.. don't sweat it yet.. Check it out, be sure it is what you expected and go from there.. if you buy it and bring it home, then the fun begins.. Take your time, and go through everything..

if I recall it broke one chain right? so you might have to replace one head, maybe not. Everything is speculation.

but look at it this way.. assume rest of car is fine... you spent 7K on the car.. buy a motor for 6K and you are still under the value of it in good shape

I think Ron ( Cuisinartvette) might still have a motor for one and he is in Cali

[flyin ryan]

Could the head possibly be repaired if the damage is not too extensive? Maybe just replace the valves?Oh ya, depending on whats wrong. I doubt the head itself is that far gone, by any stretch of the imagination. Bent valves are no biggie, maybe some guide work too, whatever, nothing that can't be taken care of. Very hard to know for sure what your dealing with until you get in there, though, TBO.

[A26B]

Welcome! It will all work out whatever you should decide.
You don't have to buy new parts for everything as there is a fair amount of used available. Depending on the damage, heads can be repaired (new seats, little welding & grinding in the chamber, etc.) I have "some" used parts that could be helpful. There should also be used pistons & liners out there from engine upgrades.

I have all the gaskets & seals available. (Thanks for the recommendation Tom!)

The Registry is the best tool in a members box. Great folks here always willing to help.

Good luck with the project.

[phrogs]

Oh yeah I have the head you need with valves, I have pistons and liners if you need those as well.

Just hit us up plenty of good used parts out there.


When you get it home pull that baby out and lets see what you got to work with!

of course do not be afraid to ask around here about this alot of us have done our own work on these cars and know what your facing.

[tccrab]

You should have the car in your garage by now.
What have you learned?

TomC
"Crabs"
"Wetblanket #1"

[bdw18_123]

Yeah, it's in the garage now. Haven't got a chance to tear into the engine yet. My brother had his car in our garage cus he was working on it today, so I had to wait. It's a 2 car garage but the other side is occupied with stuff, lol. I didn't get it into the garage until late Thursday nite. I'm planning to start working on getting the head off on Friday.

I did clean it up real good, it was filthy inside and needed a good washing outside. It looks a lot better now after a good vacuuming and washing. Engine bay is still filthy though. Gonna have to give it a good cleaning. Probably will pull the engine to give it a going over.

Just from looking at the cam covers, looks like he was trying to get some of the bolts off, but they must have been stuck/stripped cus a few of the bolt heads are drilled up and ground on. Those will be fun to get out, uggh. Guess I need some cam cover bolts too. This guy was not much of a mechanic. Luckaly, I am, lol.

I'll post some better pics of its current state tomorrow.

[Geof180]

:occasion1:wave:

and a big welcome to you:hello:

[HADI-ZR1]

:cheers:
:thumbsup:

[bdw18_123]

Well, its in the garage now. Here are some pictures of the car, the extra parts that came with it and all the owners kit stuff, window sticker, etc. Before I pull the engine out, I want to pull the driver's side head off. I'm anxious to see what the damage looks like.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71175.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71170.jpg

Timing chain, sprockets and guides:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71172.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71171.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71177.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71169.jpg

[bdw18_123]

More pics...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71168.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71167.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71166.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71165.jpg

[bdw18_123]

More pics...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71164.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71163.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71162.jpg

[LGAFF]

Not bad, keep us posted:dancing

[-=Jeff=-]

yeah for everything you have there you got a good deal..

[Eric870]

You got a great deal.. I love White with red guts, just like the first 1953 vette.

[Ccmano]

Now that you've got it home and cleaned up a little it looks like it's in better shape than the original pictures showed. I'd say you got a good deal for the money. That earlier darker red looks great, I had a 91' vert in that combination.

Get that engine out and check out what the issues are. You can drill off the heads of the stripped camcover bolts. I had one like that recently. Drilled off the head and was able to pull the cover. The bolt stud that was left was easy to remove with a bolt stud remover.

The idea of simply buying a replacement engine and then parting out the original engine is a good idea if you have the funds. You could end up with a minimal expense when all is said and done and a driveable car much sooner.

Otherwise just take your time and enjoy the process.

H
:cheers:

[tccrab]

Beg/borrow/steal a "Boro-Scope" and post up some pictures of the drivers side cylinders.
Maybe one of the more expert members here can tell you if there's valve/piston/head damage before you have to remove the head.
Likely there is, but you never know.

Doing the math, you paid ~$7k, plus another $1k for towing/license/tax brings it to around $8k.
If your motor is damaged, buy one from Johnny (Phrogs) for say $4-5k, brings your total to $13k.
Sell the parts of your old motor, should bring you enough to offset a good chunk of the cost of the replacement engine.
So you're back down to the car costing you ~$10k, which is a serious bargain.

Overall, the car looks pretty good for a "high miler", some touch up paint and a good under hood cleaning will do wonders. The white exterior with red guts is one of the few red interior combos that I like. My next favorite is the black/red. Great combo.
When you go to clean the engine area...
DO NOT use water.
No pressure washing, no steam cleaning.
Even your garden hose is not your friend.
Also, DO NOT use caustic chemicals on the engine surfaces AT ALL.
Trust me.
These are serious No-No's.
You will thank me later.
Diluted Simple Green works OK.
It's late and I don't feel like typing any more, but suffice to say that you would hate yourself if you did.

TomC
"Crabs"

[Jeffvette]

Before I pull the engine out, I want to pull the driver's side head off. I'm anxious to see what the damage looks like.

Just get the motor out and then start working on it. You have to remove the brake booster to just get the cam cover off, but you can remove the motor without removing the brake booster.

[bdw18_123]

Just get the motor out and then start working on it. You have to remove the brake booster to just get the cam cover off, but you can remove the motor without removing the brake booster.

Yeah, I realized that when I looked closer at the rear bolts on the driver's side, lol. Now I'm working on disconnecting everything from the engine so I can get it out.

Couple questions:

1. How the heck do you get to the exhaust manifold bolts? I can't even see most of them. It doesn't help that the manifold/cats are one piece.

2. There are a couple wire harnesses that go down to the oil pan on the passenger side. It's very tight in there, can hardly see where they go, how do you get to them to disconnect them?

3. I notice in the service manual it shows some special brackets for lifting the engine. Is there a way to lift the engine without these?

[bdw18_123]

I asked the guy about why the underside of the hood was white. He said he got a new hood because someone with a hitch backed into his and made a big gash in the middle. The new one apparently came white like that.

[tomtom72]

Till one of the other guys gets to your Q's I'll toss this out fwiw.

1.) I do believe if you remove the wheel well liners you can do the exhaust bolts.

2.) Same as above and the "K" members, two of them at the front of the oil pan can come out I think 16mm wrench &/or sockets. The one on the pass side will reveal the wiring once it's out. The pieces I'm talking about appear to be holding the motor mounts, they don't as the motor mount is actually on an ear on the main frame rail. Just remove the two front 16mm & the rear two 16mm(?) and that bar will come out.

3.) This one I can't answer :redface:, but Jeff or one of the FBI can answer that one.

:cheers:
Tom

[LGAFF]

The K brace is correct, three 13MM bolts on the P/S frame rail(one on the top is hard to see but easy to remove)........two 15MM in the front and the the one that attaches to the motor mount. This gives you access to the O2 sensor, harness but unscrewing it would have the same effect. This will not drop the engine if removed.....thanks to Jeffvette for the info last week,:mrgreen:


I would assume that the lifting brackets are not required, not sure how a chain could not perform the same function.....but I will let others chime in on that.

[bdw18_123]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll remove the wheelwell liners and the K-members (didn't realize you could take those off with the engine still mounted) and see what I got from there.

[Jeffvette]

You can pull the engine out with the manifolds attached. Just need to be careful. I like to pull the plenum and injector housings off to get a little more room and also helps to remove the windshield wiper motor cover.

As far as lifting. You can use the injector housing bolt holes in the head. Use and injector housing bolt with stepped washers.

As far as the harness undo all the electrical connectors and leave the harness in the car, and yes the wire that comes down to the right O2 sensor and crank sensor is tough.

[bdw18_123]

Well, I got both exhaust manifold assemblies off. Removing the lower rear wheelwell covers and both K-members made it a little easier, tho it was still a PITA to get the manifolds off! All the wiring harnesses have been removed from the engine and laid aside also. Engine is about ready to come out now I think.

The plenum is removed, but the injectors are still installed. Jeffvette, you mention using the injector housing bolt holes for lifting. Not sure which holes you mean. A picture or a diagram would help showing how the lift harness connects. :-D

Can you leave the transmission installed, or do you have to completely remove it? When I did my LT1, I left the transmission installed, supported by a jack and removed the engine, bellhousing attached. Don't know if you can do the same thing with the LT5.

Can't stop staring at Jeffvette's avatar... LOL, yummy!

[RICKYRJ1]

[quote=bdw18_123;59424]
Can't stop staring at Jeffvette's avatar... LOL, yummy!

I think that is a picture of Jeff taken last year at BG. I heard that is what he wears under his race suit for good luck. :jawdrop: ,

[Jagdpanzer]

Can't stop staring at Jeffvette's avatar... LOL, yummy!

The prettiest ray of sunshine I've seen in a long time!

[Jeffvette]

So have you made an assessment on the engine?

[bdw18_123]

I've got the engine out and after spending a lot of time drilling out numerous stuck bolts (man, they really torque those cam cover bolts in there!), I got the driver's side cam cover off. Looks like I'm gonna need some cam cover bolts in addition to the camshaft bolts that hold the chain gears on. The cam cover itself is a little damaged also from where he tried to get the stuck bolts off.

I'm gonna take some pictures of the view into the exhaust and intake ports in the head and post them, you can see part of the valves. It doesn't look like they're damaged, although I can't see the whole valve. I'm gonna try carefully turning the cams on the drivers side to get the valves to go up and down and see if they seat properly.

[tccrab]

The cam cover itself is a little damaged also from where he tried to get the stuck bolts off.

Hopefully it's only cosmetic damage as the cam cover and head is a matched set. During the manufacturing process, the cam cover was attached to the head and then the cam bores were line bored as a unit. The machine that this did was a "one-off" machine and has long since been scrapped by the folks at Mercury Marine. After the boring process they were gauged with something called "Barney's Broom Stick", a special tool made by one of the engineers. You can read all about it in the book "Heart Of The Beast".
I don't know for sure that anybody has ever had a machine shop attempt to re-bore cam bores so as to use mis-matched head/cam covers. I suspect that it could be done, but I would bet it wouldn't be cheap.

TomC
"Crabs"

[bdw18_123]

Here are some pics of what I've found so far. I decided I'm gonna have to take the heads off. The intake ports are extremely filthy with lots of grimey gunk in them, so there may be crap in the cylinders, I don't know. But I'm not willing to chance it leaving the heads on. Also, I don't think I have found every piece of broken chain so I need to drop the oil pan also and just inspect everything top and bottom really good. And clean everything.


This is the driver's head (the broken chain side):
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71193.jpg

Not much damage at all (except for the grooving), could have been worse.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71195.jpg

Looks like the top of the links in the one segment busted off, must have been weak there.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71196.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71197.jpg

The chains and guides removed from my engine:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71198.jpg

[A26B]

Looks like the broken cam chain has some rollers that are badly worn and at least a couple that are missing. With roller(s) missing the chain pitch no longer matches the sprocket pitch which probably precipitated the link breaking. You should have several pieces of broken rollers in the pan also.

Hard to say whether a sprocket on the drivers side chain went bad first or the chain did. Regardless of what failed first, all of the sprockets will also have to be replaced too, as you already know.

Oil pump has a few battle scars, but nothing bad. Good news is no damage to the block.

Will keep my fingers crossed for minimal damage when you get the head off. Not too bad so far!

[bdw18_123]

Driver's head is off! Man, those head bolts are really, really hard to get off. Even with a 5ft cheater bar. I busted one socket (craftsman, free replacement, hehe :cool:) getting them off.

Here are the pics. While it is incredibly filthy in there, the damage seems minimal, I think I got pretty lucky considering how bad it could have been. Total of 4 bent exhaust valves, no intake valves appear to be bent. Although as you can see in the pic, in cylinder #5 the intake valves contacted the piston, but they seem to close ok.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71199.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71211.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71210.jpg

[Jeffvette]

I told ya :D

You should send those pics over to the original owner. Demand some money back.

[bdw18_123]

I guess the next step is getting the bent valves out. There seem to be a whole lot of special (and probably extremely expensive) tools to work on this engine. Where can I get the valve removal tools? If they are really expensive, is there anyone here that has them that wouldn't mind letting me borrow them?

I also need 4 exhaust valves and maybe 2 intake valves in case they are slightly bent.

The cam cover for the drivers side unfortunately is a little damaged. There is a small hole in the side where he tried to pry on a stuck screw (I have the piece) and some deep gouges on the top (don't know how those got there). Would an experienced aluminum welder be able to repair it? I could just JB weld it, but in the future, I will want to get it powdercoated and I don't know if JB weld will hold up to the powdercoating process. Here are some pics of the damage to the cover:


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71212.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71215.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71213.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71214.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

you MIGHT.. be better off with a head from Johnny, with a Cam cover

depends on cost to fix this one

[A26B]

Cam cover can be repaired by a good welder with a tig machine, followed up with a bit of hand work to smooth everything back like it was, then powder coat. Heat can be controlled easier with a tig and the damage is essentially cosmetic, not structural.

No visible head damage that I can see apart from bad valves and you may run into more after they are all out.

Looks like coolant leakage into the #3 cylinder. Any sign of a bad head gasket? Water in the oil?

My question is; are you going to tear it down and rebuild completely since it has 145K miles? The thing about an LT5 is that you can pop rod caps to look at crank & bearings, but you can't check the mains with out doing a complete teardown.

[bdw18_123]

Cam cover can be repaired by a good welder with a tig machine, followed up with a bit of hand work to smooth everything back like it was, then powder coat. Heat can be controlled easier with a tig and the damage is essentially cosmetic, not structural.

No visible head damage that I can see apart from bad valves and you may run into more after they are all out.

Looks like coolant leakage into the #3 cylinder. Any sign of a bad head gasket? Water in the oil?

My question is; are you going to tear it down and rebuild completely since it has 145K miles? The thing about an LT5 is that you can pop rod caps to look at crank & bearings, but you can't check the mains with out doing a complete teardown.

No, there did not appear to be any water in the oil and the head gasket looks ok, no tears or anything. But I'll probably get new head gaskets anyway.

I don't really have the money at the moment to replace everything. Since there are some ZR-1's with 200K+ miles on them, this one should make it too. I'm just going to clean everything up real good, replace what has to be replaced and put it all back together.

[kirkstingray]

Good luck hope all goes well to get her on the road.

Kirk

[QB93Z]

Thank you for taking the time to post these pictures and findings about you engine. It is a great learning experience for me. I appreciate it.

Good luck getting it all back together.

Jim

[Jeffvette]

No, there did not appear to be any water in the oil and the head gasket looks ok, no tears or anything. But I'll probably get new head gaskets anyway.

Cylinder #3 does look like it has had coolant flushing around in it. otherwise it should be solid black like all the others. I see a small imperfection at the bottom of the gasket, but can't really make it out with out having a better picture. Typically cylinder 7 is where a head gasket will give out first. And there is no re-using old head gaskets.

I don't really have the money at the moment to replace everything. Since there are some ZR-1's with 200K+ miles on them, this one should make it too. I'm just going to clean everything up real good, replace what has to be replaced and put it all back together.


This is where you come to the cross roads. You have a good opportunity to do some clean up, porting etc. You have already done most of the dirty work. I would be worried about the condition of the bottom end. You should take a peek and see what is going on.

The cam cover is repairable, but you need to take care in not overheating it. Otherwise it does become garbage.

[VetteMed]

Great pics, thanks for posting them... Hope your end result is satisfactory, whichever path you choose. :thumbsup:

[Z51JEFF]

Can't stop staring at Jeffvette's avatar... LOL, yummy!

Hes got some killers,not really a tet man but do I love a killa a$$.

[Z51JEFF]

You have metal floating around in this motor,are you going to completely go through this thing or do a mild patch up and go from there?

[bdw18_123]

You have metal floating around in this motor,are you going to completely go through this thing or do a mild patch up and go from there?

I've got the engine out, plenum & IH assemblies off (what does IH stand for? Injector something? Intake header? :mrgreen:), drivers head off, timing chains/cams and related assemblies off. Gonna take passenger head off and drop the oil pan. Inspect and clean everything real good esp in combustion chamber. Replace all gaskets of stuff I removed. Replace the bad valves, remove and inspect the others on that head. So yeah, probably just a mild patch up for now. But I am going to inspect everything as good as possible to find all the metal pieces.

In the future when I have more money, I plan to freshen the engine up, prob get top end P&P and powdercoated, maybe get bigger pistons/sleeves, freshen bottom end, etc.

Cams look a little bit worn at the tip on some of the lobes but look ok overall. I don't have the money right now to replace 4 cams. I just want to get it in running condition for as little money as possible for right now.

[WB9MCW]

bdw18_123 congrats on the score and gud luck with the project.

Welcome to the Zoo.

[1990 415]

I've got the engine out, plenum & IH assemblies off (what does IH stand for? Injector something? Intake header? :mrgreen:), drivers head off, timing chains/cams and related assemblies off. Gonna take passenger head off and drop the oil pan. Inspect and clean everything real good esp in combustion chamber. Replace all gaskets of stuff I removed. Replace the bad valves, remove and inspect the others on that head. So yeah, probably just a mild patch up for now. But I am going to inspect everything as good as possible to find all the metal pieces.

In the future when I have more money, I plan to freshen the engine up, prob get top end P&P and powdercoated, maybe get bigger pistons/sleeves, freshen bottom end, etc.

Cams look a little bit worn at the tip on some of the lobes but look ok overall. I don't have the money right now to replace 4 cams. I just want to get it in running condition for as little money as possible for right now.
IH = Injector housing

[A26B]

A couple of observations about this photo:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71213.jpg

1. What is that red chip from, that is laying in the cam cover?

2. You do know that the wear strip is missing, only the metal backing is still bolted (2 bolts) inside the cam cover. It was probably knocked off when the chain let go.

3.There is what appears to be a crack in the cam cover, on the left side of the picture, right below the wear strip backing plate. Can you verify?

Knowing you are on a tight budget, I can't stress too much to make sure you use a GOOD welder with TIG machine to repair the cam cover. Heat must be controlled so the mating surfaces do not warp. It shouldn't be a problem to do if you use an experienced, skilled welder. Screw it up & it'll cost you a replacement head/cam cover assy.

Should you decide to pull the oil pump for any reason, be very careful regarding the oil pump/crankshaft seal. The pump side of the seal is carbon & very easy to damage, and expensive to replace.

When you get ready to go back together, should you need any help regarding what gaskets & seals you need, email me & I'll work with you on a list. jerry@jerrysgaskets.com

[bdw18_123]

In response to your questions, Jerry:

1. That 'red' chip (which is actually not red, it's gold), is a piece of the plastic wear strip you mentioned. I didn't notice it there until after I took the picture.

2. Yes, I know there is a wear strip missing. It was in lots of pieces when I took the cover off, probably damaged when the chain let go. At the whiteracing website, he wants $120 for a piece of plastic. No way in hell am I paying that. It is listed on the GM parts website in their 'alternate catalog' for only $3.76, but it probably is not available anymore. I was planning on making one from the wear strips on the secondary timing chain guides I took out (I have a whole other set to go in) since it's the same type of plastic, maybe glue it on or something. I'm pretty good at 'macgyvering' things. :mrgreen:

3. The crack your seeing is actually not below the wearstrip. It's part the damage seen in this picture in the center, top sort of:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/STA71212.jpg

I was planning on just using JB weld to do a temp repair on the cover for now. All it needs to do is keep the oil in, JB weld can withstand heat up to 600 degrees. In the future, I'll get it repaired properly.

As for the gaskets, yes I was planning on getting the ones I need from your site, Jerry. I have all the ones I need so far in my cart (I created an account), may add a few if I remove more stuff. Any chance I could get a discount? It's gonna be pricey for all the gaskets I need. :mrgreen:

[thethrillofspeed]

To get the cam cover fixed I would go over to your local motorcycle shop. My Ninja broke it's chain and it damaged the aluminum case very similar to the damage you have on the cam cover. They had a good welder that tig welded it for me for $40 and the job was perfect and I didn't have to buy a new case.

[rebelz]

Within the ellipse appears to me to be a hairline crack. is it an optical illusion?
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii154/rebelzr1/STA71213.jpg


Rich

[-=Jeff=-]

I would not MacGyver the Wear Strip.. I would replace it.

That Said, Marc Haibeck Sells a replacement for $50. I needed one for my car too, that is where I got it from

[Polo-1]

Ben

Found the valves.
Will mail out Monday.

[bdw18_123]

Within the ellipse appears to me to be a hairline crack. is it an optical illusion?
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii154/rebelzr1/STA71213.jpg


Rich

Yes, there is a crack there, but it doesn't go all the way through to the outside. I don't know what the heck the previous owner did to that cam cover, he f****d it all up. :mad:

What type of places do you go to/recommend to get the cover welded? How do you tell if they are a GOOD aluminum tig welder and know what their doing? I don't really have any idea where to go to get something like that done.

[rebelz]

Yes, there is a crack there, but it doesn't go all the way through to the outside. I don't know what the heck the previous owner did to that cam cover, he f****d it all up. :mad:

What type of places do you go to/recommend to get the cover welded? How do you tell if they are a GOOD aluminum tig welder and know what their doing? I don't really have any idea where to go to get something like that done.

Personally I would look for someone Aircraft Certified. There is a whole new level of expertise there. That is not to say that there aren't those out there that are as good, but you certainly have a better chance of getting one that is "Good" Whom ever you choose make sure they are a certified tig welder.

Rich Ballou
Vice President
Team ZR-1 Motorsports
Alaska

[tccrab]

Box it up and ship it up to JeffVette.
I'm absolutely positive that he can fix you up without breaking your bank account.

TomC
"Crabs"

[4DSZR1]

Box it up and ship it up to JeffVette.
I'm absolutely positive that he can fix you up without breaking your bank account.

TomC
"Crabs"

Thats exactly what I'd do too. trust him 100%

Rick

[GOLDCYLON]

Thats exactly what I'd do too. trust him 100%

Rick


X3 ;)

[rebelz]

I agree wholeheartedly. :thumbsup: My Aircraft Welder post was made under the assumption he was looking locally.

Rich

[Jeffvette]

Update?

[bdw18_123]

Update?

I've had some money problems lately. So, other than cleaning the engine & car, the project has been kind of at a stand-still. I would have to sell my '93 LT1 to get the extra money.

Once I have some extra money, I'm planning on sending you my damaged cam cover and also the driver's side coolant tube that bolts onto the IH assembly, it needs some repair also.