Fidanza install complete.

[rhipsher]

Got everything done this morning. And I love it! Absolutely love it. I should have done it sooner. When I started the car up after sitting 8 weeks it firered right up like it always does and I was expecting to hear all kinds of gear noise like I've read about on hear. I didn't hear anything at all. If you listen really hard when it's in neutral you can hardly hear it. Let me just say for anyone looking for more get up and go I would highly recomend it as one of the many things that will bump it up a notch in the performance department. The RPM's come up so fast it will make your head spin. I'm so glad I did it. And I would like to thank Lee for helping me. We were up till 2:45am friday night totally exhausted. When his Z decides to take a crap he can count on me for help.:thumbsup:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Congrats and great to hear some good news about the Fidanza. I have mine on the shelf that I bought from phrogs. So what clutch set up did you go with? Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

[jonszr1]

I hate to tell you i told you that it was something you were going to love . now just finish your porting and you might just go absolutly nuts with your updated ride :mrgreen:on second thought i dont feel bad i told you so. enjoy it buddy you earned it :thumbsup:

[rhipsher]

Congrats and great to hear some good news about the Fidanza. I have mine on the shelf that I bought from phrogs. So what clutch set up did you go with? Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:
I'm using the stock clutch. And the part# for the sprung hub disk is CTF-381039 at Summit Racing. You have two choices there for disks either the Center Force that I went with or the McLoed. Summit was out of stock on both so it took me over a month to get it. I also went with longer bolts for the flywheel to crank and for clutch to flywheel. All grade 8 preasure bolts not just any bolts.

[USAFPILOT]

Congrats Rick...now bring that thing to work so I can go for a ride.

[rhipsher]

Congrats Rick...now bring that thing to work so I can go for a ride.
Will do. I'm bringing it to work tommorrow. We'll do lunch.:cheers:

[bobbyhi]

I'm using the stock clutch. And the part# for the sprung hub disk is CTF-381039 at Summit Racing. You have two choices there for disks either the Center Force that I went with or the McLoed. Summit was out of stock on both so it took me over a month to get it. I also went with longer bolts for the flywheel to crank and for clutch to flywheel. All grade 8 preasure bolts not just any bolts.


I got my flywheel last week. I looked at Jegs and they have the Center Force in stock for the same price as Summit. Think I will order next week. I am probably going to go with the stock bolts. I don't race but do push the car pretty hard during normal driving. Any thoughts on the bolts other than the $10 a piece ones??
Don't mean to seal your thread here:redface:

[rhipsher]

I got my flywheel last week. I looked at Jegs and they have the Center Force in stock for the same price as Summit. Think I will order next week. I am probably going to go with the stock bolts. I don't race but do push the car pretty hard during normal driving. Any thoughts on the bolts other than the $10 a piece ones??
Don't mean to seal your thread here:redface:
I went with longer bolts for the crank and clutch plate. 7/16-20 1.25L and 3/8-16 2.25L grade 8 preasure bolts.

[bobbyhi]

I went with longer bolts for the crank and clutch plate. 7/16-20 1.25L and 3/8-16 2.25L grade 8 preasure bolts.


Thanks for the info:handshak:

[USAFPILOT]

I just got here today...and I go back to NJ tomorrow afternoon. Lunch tomorrow will work.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I'm using the stock clutch. And the part# for the sprung hub disk is CTF-381039 at Summit Racing. You have two choices there for disks either the Center Force that I went with or the McLoed. Summit was out of stock on both so it took me over a month to get it. I also went with longer bolts for the flywheel to crank and for clutch to flywheel. All grade 8 preasure bolts not just any bolts.

Thanks, I really appreciate the info. I was holding back because I have heard about all the rattle at idle. It's bad enough that people think I have a problem with smoke from the exhaust.....all I need is some rattling and it will seem like a POS.

[jonszr1]

no worries ,just have your prom changed so your idle is about 850 and you cant hardly hear it .the good is she revs like crazy .one of the best mods you can do .jmho

[rhipsher]

Thanks, I really appreciate the info. I was holding back because I have heard about all the rattle at idle. It's bad enough that people think I have a problem with smoke from the exhaust.....all I need is some rattling and it will seem like a POS.
I wouldn't have yanked the transmission for the sole purpose of putting the flywheel in and I wouldn't suggest doing it for that. But if its time for you to replace your clutch and you have to remove your trany anyway then that is the time to do it. Kill two birds with one stone. You notice the faster RPM gain from 1st through 3rd. After that its not any different than it was before. I'm sure after I p/p the plenum/inj housings there will be a much more noticable difference in power in all RPM's and gears than with the lighter flywheel. And with Jeal headers and 4:10 gears even more. Going with the Fidanza is about the equivalent of rerouting you tempeture sensor to the front of your car. But it's one of those nice little incremental improvements that add up. And you really only hear the gear noise when your car is well warmed up and your in nuetral. It all depends on how anal you are about things weather it bothers you or not. These cars already sound like a diesel truck. Go run your car up to 180mph for 5 minutes and then slow down and pull up to a stop light. That sucker will be rattling regardless of that duel mass flywheel. It won't be loud, but you can hear it. Then in a few minutes the car will settle down and be quiet again. I'm only speaking for myself and my expieriences with my ZR-1. Your experiances with "your" ZR-1 may be different.:dontknow:

[XfireZ51]

...Going with the Fidanza is about the equivalent of rerouting you tempeture sensor to the front of your car. But it's one of those nice little incremental improvements that add up.


I must disagree with you there.

From Haibeck website:

"The stock flywheel weighs 37 pounds. The Fidanza aluminum flywheel weighs 13 pounds. Thus the dynamic weight reduction is 24 pounds. The Dynojet (tm) power output can be expected to increase by about 13. +13 wheel hp divided by a .85 correction factor (15% drive line loss) equals +15 crankshaft hp."

[rhipsher]

I must disagree with you there.

From Haibeck website:

"The stock flywheel weighs 37 pounds. The Fidanza aluminum flywheel weighs 13 pounds. Thus the dynamic weight reduction is 24 pounds. The Dynojet (tm) power output can be expected to increase by about 13. +13 wheel hp divided by a .85 correction factor (15% drive line loss) equals +15 crankshaft hp."
I knew it wouldn't take long for somebody to pop up and disagree with me. Yes thats true but it is also true that rerouting the temp sensor will keep you from loosing 10 HP from heat soak. So was I that far off. I mean I'm no mathmatician but I'm sorry there's not enough of a difference between 10 and 15hp to be that much of a disagreement worth mentioning.:dontknow:

[XfireZ51]

I can understand the 15hp for the Fidanza. 10hp from
"heat soak" of the MAT sensor?

[rhipsher]

I can understand the 15hp for the Fidanza. 10hp from
"heat soak" of the MAT sensor?
Well if you don't believe me then here's the link to Mark Haibeks site on the temp sensor. http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/air%20sensor.htm

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I wouldn't have yanked the transmission for the sole purpose of putting the flywheel in and I wouldn't suggest doing it for that. But if its time for you to replace your clutch and you have to remove your trany anyway then that is the time to do it. Kill two birds with one stone. You notice the faster RPM gain from 1st through 3rd. After that its not any different than it was before. I'm sure after I p/p the plenum/inj housings there will be a much more noticable difference in power in all RPM's and gears than with the lighter flywheel. And with Jeal headers and 4:10 gears even more. Going with the Fidanza is about the equivalent of rerouting you tempeture sensor to the front of your car. But it's one of those nice little incremental improvements that add up. And you really only hear the gear noise when your car is well warmed up and your in nuetral. It all depends on how anal you are about things weather it bothers you or not. These cars already sound like a diesel truck. Go run your car up to 180mph for 5 minutes and then slow down and pull up to a stop light. That sucker will be rattling regardless of that duel mass flywheel. It won't be loud, but you can hear it. Then in a few minutes the car will settle down and be quiet again. I'm only speaking for myself and my expieriences with my ZR-1. Your experiances with "your" ZR-1 may be different.:dontknow:

Thanks for sharing the details and your thoughts. I appreciate it and I'm going to do it when I need to change my clutch. I'm looking forward to getting the 4:10s in and then I'm sure I'll need a new clutch soon after. :cheers:

[XfireZ51]

Well if you don't believe me then here's the link to Mark Haibeks site on the temp sensor. http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/air%20sensor.htm


I could see the heat soak affecting the hp if you're on a dyno, but driving around I think its a moot point. Moving the sensor isn't increasing the hp, you're just not giving up hp under certain circumstances. ;)

[rhipsher]

Moving the sensor isn't increasing the hp ;)
Niether is adding a light wieght flywheel! It would be like going on a diet and loosing 27 lbs. or taking your spare tire off. Loosing wieght doesn't add HP. It's just that much less wieght for your car to lug around which is naturally going to make it quicker. That's all. But I'm pretty sure we've both beat this thread to death by now. So I'm gonna go cash in my chips now.:mrgreen: