Service (SIR) Supplemental inflatable Restraint

[Jeffvette]

This is mostly for the 90 guys. I have never come across an issue on the 91-96 Corvettes for airbags. I have included the info for the later cars as well.



For 90-93 Cars jumper A to K on the ALDL and the INFL REST light will flash

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/aldlairbagOBD1.jpg

For 94-95 Cars, jumper Terminal 4 to 12 on the ALDL and enter the CCM diagnostics, or use a Tech1



Codes for 90
14 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Short to Ground
15 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Open Circuit
16 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Sensor Fault
24 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Short to Ground
25 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Open Circuit
26 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Sensor Fault
31 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to Battery
32 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to battery voltage
33 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to ground
34 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to ground
35 Inflator Squib; Open circuit
36 Inflator Squib; Squib fault
41 Indicator lamp circuit; Shorted to battery or ground
42 Indicator lamp circuit; Open circuit
51 Diagnostic unit faulty
52 Firing sequence confirmation set
53 Firing current confirmation set
54 Squib current has flowed

Codes for 91 & 92 & 93

21 Steering Column Resistance Too High
22 Steering Column Resistance Too Low
23 Steering Column Circuit Voltage Too High
24 Steering Column Circuit Voltage Too Low
25 Short to Battery in Steering Column
26 Open in Steering Column Circuit
31 Open 36 VLR to Deployment Loop
32 Grounded 36 VLR to Deployment Loop
33 Diode B Shorted in Wiring Harness
34 Open in Ignition 1 Feed to Deployment Loop
35 Discriminating Sensor Open
41 Deployment Loop Energy Reserve Voltage Fault
42 Deployment Loop Energy Reserve Voltage Fault
51 Accident Detected
52 EEPROM Accident Data Area Full
61 Force Low or “INFL REST” Warning Lamp Circuit
71 Internal DERM Fault

Codes for 94 & 95

14 Dual Pole Arming Sensor Disconnected
15 Passenger Initiator Circuit Resistance High
16 Passenger Initiator Circuit Resistance Low
17 Passenger Initiator Circuit Open
18 Discriminating Sensor Interconnect Open
19 Passenger Initiator Circuit Voltage High
21 Driver Initiator Circuit Resistance High
22 Driver Initiator Circuit Resistance Low
23 Driver Initiator Circuit Voltage High
24 Driver Initiator Circuit Voltage Low
25 Initiator Circuit Short to Ignition
26 Driver Initiator Circuit Open
28 Current Sink or Source Failure
31 Driver Loop Energy Reserve Feed Open
34 Dual Pole Arming Sensor Ignition Feed Open
35 Discriminating Sensor Open or Missing
36 Passenger Loop Energy Feed Open
42 Loop Energy Reserve Volatage Low
43 Driver Source Feed Low
44 Passenger Source Feed Low
51 Frontal Crash Detected
52 Data Area Full
53 Driver Side Low High Resistance
54 Passenger Side Low High Resistance
55 DERM Incompatibility
61 SIR Indicator Circuit Failure
62 Redundant Indicator Circuit Failure
71 and or 75 Internal DERM Fault
81 Driver Ignition Diode Open
82 Passenger Ignition Diode Open
83 Driver Reserve Diode Shorted
84 Passenger Reserve Diode Shorted

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Jeff,

Thanks for sharing and how coincidental that I should need this right now.:handshak:

[tomtom72]

Craig, just a fwiw. A door bell push button works wonders for grounding the pin. It make it easy to time the ground / un-ground part of clearing the code.

I tried doing it without, but had no luck. I must have tried like 20 times! I used the door bell and a watch and it worked the first time.:sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

[Eric870]

Tom, What is the procedure for clearing codes with a door bell?


Thanks
Eric

[tomtom72]

Tom, What is the procedure for clearing codes with a door bell?


Thanks
Eric

Hi Eric, okay in the 90 FSM the procedure for clearing the codes is a six step process. Now I do not know if it is the same for the other model yrs.

I could not get the timing correct for the grounding for 3 seconds, ungrounding for three seconds of the "K" terminal on my 90. I got a bell push button at the hdw store and wired it into a length of telephone wire. I stuck one end in the "K" terminal and the other end I used an alligator clip to the seat chassis. If you push the bell button the system is now a complete circuit, grounded; release the button the circuit is opened. I used my watch's second hand to time the ground/unground periods because the FSM says it's +/- 1/2 second on a three second count.

The 90 procedure is:
1.) Ing "OFF"
2.) Ground "K" terminal. (Hold the door bell button)
3.) Turn Ing "ON".
4.) Wait for fault codes to begin flashing, takes about 5 seconds. When DTC's begin flashing, unground "K" for 3 seconds, +/- 1/2 seconds. ( finger off button for 3 seconds)
5.) Ground "K" for 3 seconds, + /- 1/2 seconds. ( push the bell button )
6.) Unground "K" and wait 10 seconds ( finger off button ). Before turning ING "off", verify that the only code is "12" being flashed ( push the bell button to see "12" ). If not repeat from step "1".
That's the book version for a 90. I tried without the mechanical aid & no joy. Once I red necked the door bell, I got it first shot. If you want to use a toggle switch it may be easier?

:cheers:
Tom

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, just a fwiw. A door bell push button works wonders for grounding the pin. It make it easy to time the ground / un-ground part of clearing the code.

I tried doing it without, but had no luck. I must have tried like 20 times! I used the door bell and a watch and it worked the first time.:sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

Thanks for the tips. I have a bunch of stuff from Gordon Killebrew too and I guess now is the time to break it out and try to get smart.

[Eric870]

Tom,

Thanks, That is a great tip.........

[tomtom72]

Craig & Eric that's what we do best around here....we help each other out! We all try to contribute, that's what makes it special to be a BOB!:thumbsup:

Don't forget the di-electric grease and the star washers, like Gordon said!:mrgreen:

:cheers:

[LantanaTX]

Anyone know how to clear the codes for a '01? '90 referenced above but not working on my car.

[KILLSHOTS]

I made it real simple...removed the bulb from the DIC during my stereo install. When I adjust the steering wheel to my liking, I can't see the seatbelt light either. Will remove that bulb soon, too, as I tend to know whether my seatbelt is on and don't need the car's guidance in this area.

Ditched the TPMS sensors too. Since refusing to cater to the whims of all these stupid failing sensors, all my DIC says anymore is FULL ENGINE POWER! ;)

[WVZR-1]

I made it real simple...removed the bulb from the DIC during my stereo install. When I adjust the steering wheel to my liking, I can't see the seatbelt light either. Will remove that bulb soon, too, as I tend to know whether my seatbelt is on and don't need the car's guidance in this area.

Ditched the TPMS sensors too. Since refusing to cater to the whims of all these stupid failing sensors, all my DIC says anymore is FULL ENGINE POWER! ;)

You could put a 2 Ohm resistor at the air bag connector at the top of the column by just unplugging the air bag OR do it at the bottom of the column at that connector. It will be yellow and obvious going towards the top of the column. I believe 1/2 watt is the preferred. That will put out the "seat belt" light in cluster and it would have put out the DIC also.

[WVZR-1]

Anyone know how to clear the codes for a '01? '90 referenced above but not working on my car.

You meant I believe '91 BUT you have SIR codes as well as the ECM code 14 and the low level in the DIC?

[KILLSHOTS]

You could put a 2 Ohm resistor at the air bag connector at the top of the column by just unplugging the air bag OR do it at the bottom of the column at that connector. It will be yellow and obvious going towards the top of the column. I believe 1/2 watt is the preferred. That will put out the "seat belt" light in cluster and it would have put out the DIC also.
Nice! Easier than pulling off the whole cluster to remove the bulb. THANKS!!

[LantanaTX]

I may have reversed what Killshot did. When my check engine light didn't work, I pulled the DIC and found a few bulbs had been removed, but they were sitting just beneath the DIC behind the bezel. I put the bulbs back in and now have these annoying lights. "low coolant level" and "INFL REST". I pulled the codes for the INFL REST and got 26, column circuit open. I may have tripped this one accidently when I changed out the steering wheel. I know the airbag is connected properly now, so I was going to clear the codes and see if it comes back on. Just don't know how to clear for a '91. the '90 procedures above did not work. May have to take bulb back out if I can't figure it out!

[WVZR-1]

I may have reversed what Killshot did. When my check engine light didn't work, I pulled the DIC and found a few bulbs had been removed, but they were sitting just beneath the DIC behind the bezel. I put the bulbs back in and now have these annoying lights. "low coolant level" and "INFL REST". I pulled the codes for the INFL REST and got 26, column circuit open. I may have tripped this one accidently when I changed out the steering wheel. I know the airbag is connected properly now, so I was going to clear the codes and see if it comes back on. Just don't know how to clear for a '91. the '90 procedures above did not work. May have to take bulb back out if I can't figure it out!

The SIR codes are the most difficult to clear and I don't know that they can be done without a Tech1 for the '91+ cars. The DERM (Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module) was changed in '91 and I don't recall ever seeing a manual procedure for the SIR code clearing.

[LantanaTX]

The SIR codes are the most difficult to clear and I don't know that they can be done without a Tech1 for the '91+ cars. The DERM (Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module) was changed in '91 and I don't recall ever seeing a manual procedure for the SIR code clearing.

Ok,... those are $800 - $1,000 any other options? OBDII is so much easier!

[KILLSHOTS]

Ok,... those are $800 - $1,000 any other options? OBDII is so much easier!
Lantana...didn't mean to be a chump earlier with my post about pulling bulbs. My point was that I realized I could spend thousands of dollars chasing ghosts, trying to get these arguably unnecessary systems functioning perfectly, OR I could instead pull the bulbs and just ENJOY my non-NCRS car for a few thousand miles per year. I chose the latter.

You and I are both relatively new Z owners. Our cars are going to cost us a few bucks, so it's up to us to decide whether we're going to spend the money making our cars more drivable, or spend the money making sure that every wire is the correct color and length. I've decided to let a 25-year old car just be a 25-year old car, and not try to make it perfect.

Best of luck, and enjoy that beautiful gray car! GM should've painted them that color!

Chris

[LantanaTX]

Lantana...didn't mean to be a chump earlier with my post about pulling bulbs. My point was that I realized I could spend thousands of dollars chasing ghosts, trying to get these arguably unnecessary systems functioning perfectly, OR I could instead pull the bulbs and just ENJOY my non-NCRS car for a few thousand miles per year. I chose the latter.

You and I are both relatively new Z owners. Our cars are going to cost us a few bucks, so it's up to us to decide whether we're going to spend the money making our cars more drivable, or spend the money making sure that every wire is the correct color and length. I've decided to let a 25-year old car just be a 25-year old car, and not try to make it perfect.

Best of luck, and enjoy that beautiful gray car! GM should've painted them that color!

Chris

I actually thought you had a pretty good idea. However, I do all my own work and enjoy solving the mysteries. My car is no NCRS car and if anything is more of a restomod with its '95 exterior looks and non original color. Most of what I am chasing now are nickel and dime stuff and I have already had it at two car shows where it did very well. But I will pull the bulb if I can't clear the code in a reasonable way.

[Kevin]

When dealing with the SIR system, you must fix the problem to clear the codes. As the system does a self check every time the the key is cycled to the run position. Otherwise you will never clear the INFL light.

With the 91, you can use flash code diagnostics, but certain codes can only be read and reset using a Tech1 with the SIR cartridge. Code 51 can not be cleared from the history at all.

You are supposed to use the Tech1 to clear the codes, and the manual makes no reference to using the ground/unground method to clear the codes. If you correct the code 26 it should be changed to a "history" code and be removed from the "current" and the light will go out.

Your code 26 was more than likely caused by your swap of the steering wheel. Hopefully you have not pinched or damaged the wire in the column coming from the coil to the inflator module. You may get lucky and find that you did not insert the connector correctly.

[WVZR-1]

Ok,... those are $800 - $1,000 any other options? OBDII is so much easier!



Check your local Yellow Pages for "Air Bag Service" companies or contact a couple local collision shops and ask who they use for service work. A code read and clear by an independent could be very inexpensive.

Here's a link to an "information" TSB for '91 systems:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/kb/questions/682/1990+-+1991%3A+Service+Information%3A+Service+Tips+for+S upplemental+Inflatable+Restraint+(SIR)

If indeed it's just a connection issue it may store to "History" but I believe there's no assurance that it will.

OBD II is only emission related and drive-train related. There is no DIY for SIR regardless of the balance of the systems on the vehicle.