Paul Workman
04-11-2009, 08:41 AM
It took some doin' and shopping around, suggestions from members here and some mistakes before I finally found a place where everything needed for the P&P project could be had for a great price!
I call it the "FBI kit" (Fast Boyz of Illinoiz), containing -
SE6 (cabide) bur (1" long 5/8" dia. oval w/ fine single cut flutes, 2-1/2" x 1/4" shank - recommended for aluminum)
SE5L6 bur (3/4" long 1/2" oval w/ 6"x1/4" shank
(5) 1" dia x 1" long, 60-grit flap wheels, 1/4" dia shank
(1) 1/2"dia x2" rubber sanding drum (arbor) - other sizes available too
Box of (50?) 80-grit sanding cylinders
Price is $92.52, less tax if out of IL
Fleetwood Industrial Supply Corp
1410 W Fullerton Ave
Addison, IL 60101
1-800-321-5288
Considering I spent 3x that amount doing the trial and error bit, I thought I'd pass this on to anyone that might be thinking of a fun DIY project;) In the end, this combo really worked best for me - not the only way to go by any means.
I didn't mention die grinders, but I've always preferred pneumatics whenever possible, cuz of their light weight, torque at low speed, and speed!. But, there are some good electrics out there too, and Harbor Freight can supply a rheostat to control the speed. Almost forgot...a Dremel and some 1/8" burs can come in handy to "get it right" around the secondary injector bosses.
One suggestion tho...Although some use the really aggressive style of burs with "huge" open flutes, I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner (like me). Ask AL (who repaired some holes in my plenum) about the gouging those big burs can do (in the wrong hands!:rolleyes:) Several recommended that SE6, and it turned out to be veeeery easy to control and it cuts leaving an almost finished surface.
One more...If I had it to do over, I'd buy one of the long in-line pneumatic die grinders with at least a 4" snout, and drape the hose over my shoulder. Control is much better the more "meat" (both hands) you can put near the bur. Just my observation.
If someone finds this helpful, that B good.
P.
I call it the "FBI kit" (Fast Boyz of Illinoiz), containing -
SE6 (cabide) bur (1" long 5/8" dia. oval w/ fine single cut flutes, 2-1/2" x 1/4" shank - recommended for aluminum)
SE5L6 bur (3/4" long 1/2" oval w/ 6"x1/4" shank
(5) 1" dia x 1" long, 60-grit flap wheels, 1/4" dia shank
(1) 1/2"dia x2" rubber sanding drum (arbor) - other sizes available too
Box of (50?) 80-grit sanding cylinders
Price is $92.52, less tax if out of IL
Fleetwood Industrial Supply Corp
1410 W Fullerton Ave
Addison, IL 60101
1-800-321-5288
Considering I spent 3x that amount doing the trial and error bit, I thought I'd pass this on to anyone that might be thinking of a fun DIY project;) In the end, this combo really worked best for me - not the only way to go by any means.
I didn't mention die grinders, but I've always preferred pneumatics whenever possible, cuz of their light weight, torque at low speed, and speed!. But, there are some good electrics out there too, and Harbor Freight can supply a rheostat to control the speed. Almost forgot...a Dremel and some 1/8" burs can come in handy to "get it right" around the secondary injector bosses.
One suggestion tho...Although some use the really aggressive style of burs with "huge" open flutes, I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner (like me). Ask AL (who repaired some holes in my plenum) about the gouging those big burs can do (in the wrong hands!:rolleyes:) Several recommended that SE6, and it turned out to be veeeery easy to control and it cuts leaving an almost finished surface.
One more...If I had it to do over, I'd buy one of the long in-line pneumatic die grinders with at least a 4" snout, and drape the hose over my shoulder. Control is much better the more "meat" (both hands) you can put near the bur. Just my observation.
If someone finds this helpful, that B good.
P.