Paul Workman
04-06-2009, 08:34 PM
My IHs are one hole away from being opened up, and NO MORE Ooopes this time! I was laid up on Saturday with a bug, but Sunday I was hard at it and in a little over 7 hours I was able to open up 7 of the 8 runners in my second IH. I still have to go back to the remaining runner and get with the drum sander and flapwheel for some minor clean-up and polishing, but that 6E bur turned out to be the beez kneez (for me). At this point I'm beginning to almost plan an end date. But, I'll resist doing that, as trying to meet an arbitrary time line leads to mistakes, and I don't need to do that on the up-coming heads.
But, dayam! As the head port matching nears, that reamer concept is really bugging me to figure out how to use it. No question the bore left behind would be precise and clean. If the centerline of the new port and that existing in the head were the same, I'd buy the damned thing in a heartbeat. But, than is not the case, and I haven't decided how to bias a reamer by hand. (Hand-held reamers will chase an existing hole fairly well, but it isn't so easy to force the cut to one side of the circumference, which is what needs to happen - to some degree.) Maybe if I first shade the head intake port to the desired centerline by hand, using the burs to make a "pilot" hole. Then I could chase the reamer down the "pilot" to finish the port matching job???
I know to some it sounds a bit crazy, and you might be right. But, I'm intrigued, especially when Marc H suggested that if it could be done that it might be worth as much as 5 (+?) hp over simply port matching (commonly done on a "top end only" porting). Things that make ya say "Hmmmmmm......"
P.
But, dayam! As the head port matching nears, that reamer concept is really bugging me to figure out how to use it. No question the bore left behind would be precise and clean. If the centerline of the new port and that existing in the head were the same, I'd buy the damned thing in a heartbeat. But, than is not the case, and I haven't decided how to bias a reamer by hand. (Hand-held reamers will chase an existing hole fairly well, but it isn't so easy to force the cut to one side of the circumference, which is what needs to happen - to some degree.) Maybe if I first shade the head intake port to the desired centerline by hand, using the burs to make a "pilot" hole. Then I could chase the reamer down the "pilot" to finish the port matching job???
I know to some it sounds a bit crazy, and you might be right. But, I'm intrigued, especially when Marc H suggested that if it could be done that it might be worth as much as 5 (+?) hp over simply port matching (commonly done on a "top end only" porting). Things that make ya say "Hmmmmmm......"
P.