View Full Version : Those who have replaced Water Pump to Thermostat Hose>>>
ZR1Vette
02-04-2009, 11:50 AM
This bugger>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1coolanthosefromwaterpump.jpg
Have been back and forth on whether to replace (is the original) so I am leaning on replacing since I have got the ZR drained etc. For those who have done this job:
-PIA
-Not bad considering
-Special pointers/tips
Thanks
tomtom72
02-04-2009, 12:40 PM
I haven't done it yet. Cuisenartvette, Paul W, and -=Jeff=- I think have all done it.
I was doing my oil cooler lines, SAMCO hose kit, cleaning the cooling stack all at the same time. I guess by the time I got to that hose I ran out of steam, because I just couldn't get the W/P end to come loose. The thought crossed my mind that if at that point I removed the belt tensioner, acess to the W/P end of the hose would have been easier considering that everything else was out of the way. Oil lines, fan assembly, hoses from the I/H's & the metal + rubber top hoses were all out. I'm positive if I had pulled the tensioner I would have been home free to get my hands on that end of the lower hose.
-=Jeff=-
02-04-2009, 02:36 PM
Nope, not yet, but planning on attacking that in upcoming weeks
Job becomes much easier if you have the right tool to release the clamps. There is a special radiator clamp tool made for the both the OEM round & flat tipped spring style radiator hose clamps, that will stay on the clamp when plier-like handle is squeezed to expand & release the clamp. The tool handles can be rotated to make access easier. Once the clamp is expanded/released, just slide it down onto the hose, out of the way. If you're going to trash the old hose, just make a cut through one side where it fits over the water pump & twist to break it loose. Little tougher to get loose if you don't want to cut the hose.
Removing the serpentine belt tensioner as recommended, does help
Zr1 Destroyer
02-04-2009, 05:00 PM
Rotate the baked on hose back and forth with some channel locks and use the channel locks on the factory clamp aswell.....don't waist your time with trying to slide screw drivers in between things and busting knuckles!;)
ZR1Vette
02-04-2009, 06:03 PM
Interesting... my ZR has screw type hose clamps only... appears the early production units had the screw type and then at some point GM/BG switched over to the clamp style described. I can get to both clamps (know this since I have tighten them)...just keep thinking 'not broke don't fix it'... thing????
Sgreg
02-04-2009, 06:11 PM
Yeah, and unless you are going to be judged, get rid of the lower factory clamp in favor of screw type stainless model. If you are like me, I tore mine up getting it off anyway. Looks neat sitting on your table but when it is connected to a hose, oh baby !!! :mad:
Tyler Townsley
02-04-2009, 09:37 PM
Interesting... my ZR has screw type hose clamps only... appears the early production units had the screw type and then at some point GM/BG switched over to the clamp style described. I can get to both clamps (know this since I have tighten them)...just keep thinking 'not broke don't fix it'... thing????
My 88 has clamp style which was used throughout the production run AFAIK.
Tyler
rhipsher
02-04-2009, 10:08 PM
Not sure if you need this info but here it is anyway. If you buy the hose from Napa its part#7927 it's 10" long and you will need to transfer the spring over.
jonszr1
02-04-2009, 10:11 PM
thought to post this if any of you are tight for cash or cant find a replacement hose i have found that a napa hose 7927 will work perfect to replace this hose you just have to transfer the spring ,cover and trim 4 inches off one end you can use your exsisting hose to double ck the trimming . hope this helps someone
cuisinartvette
02-05-2009, 08:08 AM
Yeah, and unless you are going to be judged, get rid of the lower factory clamp in favor of screw type stainless model. If you are like me, I tore mine up getting it off anyway. Looks neat sitting on your table but when it is connected to a hose, oh baby !!! :mad:
Oh yeah..Hose to water pump is a pain if you have the spring clamp, get the tool for it and make life easy for yourself. I used a regular clamp in its place in case it ever needed to be changed out again. If its apart replace them now.
You can get the smooth type stainless clamps they arent much...Just a thought.
GOLDCYLON
02-05-2009, 08:30 AM
Been there, done that. Tts easier with the Doorman style ring clamp pullers but still a PITA. The new Samcos and Stainless clamps look better in its place but I only considered the job since I was replacing the waterpump and radiator at the same time.
Aurora40
02-05-2009, 10:12 AM
If the other hoses are off, take off the belt and belt tensioner. Then it's really pretty easy to replace that hose.
That said, I replaced all mine with Samco hoses. Honestly I should have left them alone. The hoses were in fine shape except the cut ends (to remove them more easily). And the Samco hoses in my opinion suck. Coolant will weep slightly no matter what, they just don't seal as well as rubber. Possibly because they are less flexible and are not as thick, so they don't "squish" against the mounts as well.
Couple that with a Samco intake duct that you have to trim to use, and will probably ruin while trying, and I'm not a fan anymore...
QB93Z
02-05-2009, 10:34 AM
Has anybody ever looked into finding another supplier for ZR-1 coolant hoses besides Samco?
I am not a big fan of Samco hoses either. I don't like the streched look of the radiator inlet hose. And I don't like the words all over them.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/Radiator/DeWittsinstalledin1990ZR-11.jpg
For the cost of a set of Samco hoses, it seems that we should be able to get regular stock style hoses.
Hey Jerry, have you ever considered adding hoses to your excellent line of gaskets?
Jim
Hey Jim,
I'm supposed to be retired you know. :dancing
I already have ongoing projects that I can't seem to get around to. Everything always turns out to be more work & $'s than it appears to be in the beginning. Right now, the Raptor Turbo, JerrysGaskets and planning the Thunder in Stillwater event is plenty for me.
I'll let you young whippersnappers develop your entrepenurial ambitions.
Thanks for the offer though!!:cheers:
Jerry
GOLDCYLON
02-05-2009, 12:25 PM
I agree I dont like the Samco Duct either looks like a big fat Condom. I also agree having to cut it when it should be the right size is a NOGO. The other hoses I am a fan of but I dont like the logo all over them either. Keep this mind however. At least Samco still supports the LT5. How many other parts houses do? GO boldly GC
XfireZ51
02-05-2009, 12:31 PM
I agree I dont like the Samco Duct either looks like a big fat Condom. I also agree having to cut it when it should be the right size is a NOGO. The other hoses I am a fan of but I dont like the logo all over them either. Keep this mind however. At least Samco still supports the LT5. How many other parts houses do? GO boldly GC
I wish I needed a condom that big... :sign10: :worship:
GOLDCYLON
02-05-2009, 01:05 PM
I wish I needed a condom that big... :sign10: :worship:
Well your retirement would be set in a certain adult industry ;)
tomtom72
02-05-2009, 02:12 PM
I'm with Bob on the weeping and the intake duct. I actually fubared mine up to a fair thee well & had to toss it.
I figured my hoses allow vapor out because i refused to put the OE clamps back on.
I also do not like the "over streached look" when they are on. I figured that they will be almost forever hoses, that's why I jumped in on the group buy.
:cheers:
Tom
cuisinartvette
02-05-2009, 11:18 PM
I like the Samcos, the air duct looks big and mean imo, at least in black it does.
To each their own.
TCurtner
11-17-2013, 12:13 AM
Job becomes much easier if you have the right tool to release the clamps. There is a special radiator clamp tool made for the both the OEM round & flat tipped spring style radiator hose clamps, that will stay on the clamp when plier-like handle is squeezed to expand & release the clamp. The tool handles can be rotated to make access easier. Once the clamp is expanded/released, just slide it down onto the hose, out of the way. If you're going to trash the old hose, just make a cut through one side where it fits over the water pump & twist to break it loose. Little tougher to get loose if you don't want to cut the hose.
Removing the serpentine belt tensioner as recommended, does help
This bugger>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1coolanthosefromwaterpump.jpg
Have been back and forth on whether to replace (is the original) so I am leaning on replacing since I have got the ZR drained etc. For those who have done this job:
-PIA
-Not bad considering
-Special pointers/tips
Thanks
__________________
Michael
:cheers:
at 4.5 years late, hope the job went smoothly. :handshak: i just installed a DeWitt radiator and a NOS set of hoses - and boy were those old original made-in-1990 hoses welded to the pipes and pump and thermo housing! It was absolutely ridiculous. Took me over 8 hours from start to finish, and over half that was due to the factory clamps and the hoses having become one with their connection points...I recommend that if your grip is not what it used to be, don't fall for this job. Pay someone else - it's gotta be worth it. I've always maintained that the factory should MAKE THE ENGINEERS service their systems parts - in other words, use a mock-up of the final design, and make them replace/repair parts therein. Those clamps are from Hell. And the placement of support brackets and bolts also nutz. I also concur- remove the belt tensioner pulley assy. That alone makes the water pump inlet hose clamp much easier to get to. I ditched all the original clamps and went with the screw type (worm?) stainless. Doesn't look as neat, but much easier to re-do or adjust later.
On the good side, the DeWitt went in exactly as described...I am having some trouble with getting the air out - but hopefully will get that done tomorrow. :-({|=
rhipsher
11-17-2013, 12:30 AM
at 4.5 years late, hope the job went smoothly. :handshak: i just installed a DeWitt radiator and a NOS set of hoses - and boy were those old original made-in-1990 hoses welded to the pipes and pump and thermo housing! It was absolutely ridiculous. Took me over 8 hours from start to finish, and over half that was due to the factory clamps and the hoses having become one with their connection points...I recommend that if your grip is not what it used to be, don't fall for this job. Pay someone else - it's gotta be worth it. I've always maintained that the factory should MAKE THE ENGINEERS service their systems parts - in other words, use a mock-up of the final design, and make them replace/repair parts therein. Those clamps are from Hell. And the placement of support brackets and bolts also nutz. I also concur- remove the belt tensioner pulley assy. That alone makes the water pump inlet hose clamp much easier to get to. I ditched all the original clamps and went with the screw type (worm?) stainless. Doesn't look as neat, but much easier to re-do or adjust later.
On the good side, the DeWitt went in exactly as described...I am having some trouble with getting the air out - but hopefully will get that done tomorrow. :-({|= It's good for ya. Should be a prerequisite for Z ownership. All of us hard core guy's have done it.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/2011-04-17_16-45-08_175.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/2011-04-17_16-44-16_262.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/2011-04-17_16-48-43_916.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/2011-04-17_16-48-11_163.jpg
This job will either make you feel alive or old.=D>
TCurtner
11-17-2013, 03:27 PM
OLD. :cry:
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