View Full Version : U-joints done
rhipsher
01-12-2009, 06:02 PM
All six U-joint replaced. All spicer. I finished that project last night. There is no more low humming at 120mph do to two of the ujoints freezing up. Also no more stick shift moving around anymore. But upon taking it out for a short high speed run, while accelerating my rear end wanted to go to the right and I practically had to counter steer just to keep going sraight. My right rear tire was low on air 10 psi while the left rear tire was 35psi. That could have something to do with it. But the rear end still feels unstable. I also noticed my right rear tire has rubbed against the wheel well. My rear end looks like it has always sat lower than all you other guys ZR-1's do. It could be time for new shocks to. Anyway chew on that and see what you think.:cool:
Paul Workman
01-13-2009, 06:04 AM
All six U-joint replaced. All spicer. I finished that project last night. There is no more low humming at 120mph do to two of the ujoints freezing up. Also no more stick shift moving around anymore.
Two joints frozen up? Those would be the ones on the drive shaft, no?
Just curious, cuz I suspect mine are "due" and I'll be doing mine too, after hearing a faint "squeek-squeek-squeek - in (I guess) sync with drive shaft rotation velocity. and you mentioned a Hmmmm...:rolleyes:
P.
tomtom72
01-13-2009, 09:20 AM
I don't believe that shocks affect the ride height; maybe a bit, but I can't see a bad shock(s) affecting it enough that you would see it. Usually the only way to make the back lower is longer spring bolts. I don't know enough about how to do wheel alignments to say if lowering the rear changes any of the alignment settings.
rear feels loose? Was obviously when the tire psi's were way off, right? What about after you adjusted the psi? No change? Little change? It was loose before the U-joint work, or just after the work, or both? I'd start looking at all the bushings, jez there's plenty of'em too. Maybe the batwing mounts? Sway-bar end links loose? Or anything that could be not T/Q'ed down to spec that came apart when the joint work was done. The C-beam is up to T/Q?
Sorry, I'm just tossing out stuff that I'd look at. I really don't have an answer. :o
:cheers:
Tom
ZR1Vette
01-13-2009, 01:34 PM
Well.. 10 psi would certainly do the trick in making it pull... but me thinks you need to look at cumulative issues:
-worn out shocks+alignment+tire pressures+ possible bad suspension components (lower and/or upper wheel spindle control rods/spindle rod/axel tie rod/axel tie rod knuckle/spring insulators/cracked spring/compressed spring insulators) Also, while looking at the spring might check to see if all the spring spacers are accounted for and in equal amounts on both sides (mean looking at both spring anchor plates). Not knowing the history to your ZR-1 (like prior owner modifications) I do know you do not drive like a grandma going to confession :-D so all these items come under a lot of stress in more 'aggressive' driving.
rhipsher
01-14-2009, 12:56 PM
I think I found the issues. One bad passenger side rear wheel bearing. And two bad rear shocks. When I jacked up the rear end and sit it back down it sat 2" higher. Then drove around the block it sat 2" lower again. And when it sits that low it causes the half shafts to be at a steeper angle which is not good. And I already know I need new front tires and probably a good alignment.
tomtom72
01-14-2009, 01:27 PM
Hi Mr. R,
I gonna say something & I just want to be sure that you're aware of this before you go chasing bad expensive shocks. I don't mean nothing smart a$$ by it.
On T-verse leaf spring cars, if you suspend them and then compress them it it is normal to measure differing ride heights before and after the suspension resettles or has become loaded again because you drove the car. I hope I'm expressing this right.
Our shocks normally leak as a result of the method of lubrication for the shaft. So oil build up over time is normal. Now I'll hasten to add that it is a minute quantity of oil, but unless you wash your shocks everytime you wash the car it could look like a bad leak if you are really noticing it for the first time. I'm sure you know if it is porposing. That's how I figured out that I needed to spend $725.00 for new shocks. They were pretty oiled up, to me, but not by the book.
I don't have my FSM handy and I know somewhere in there is the ride height table.
:cheers:
Tom
rhipsher
01-14-2009, 09:01 PM
Hi Mr. R,
I gonna say something & I just want to be sure that you're aware of this before you go chasing bad expensive shocks. I don't mean nothing smart a$$ by it.
On T-verse leaf spring cars, if you suspend them and then compress them it it is normal to measure differing ride heights before and after the suspension resettles or has become loaded again because you drove the car. I hope I'm expressing this right.
Our shocks normally leak as a result of the method of lubrication for the shaft. So oil build up over time is normal. Now I'll hasten to add that it is a minute quantity of oil, but unless you wash your shocks everytime you wash the car it could look like a bad leak if you are really noticing it for the first time. I'm sure you know if it is porposing. That's how I figured out that I needed to spend $725.00 for new shocks. They were pretty oiled up, to me, but not by the book.
I don't have my FSM handy and I know somewhere in there is the ride height table.
:cheers:
Tom
Even when Bradley Taylor was visiting he said dude your car is sitting way to low in the rear. It sits alot lower than the front by a good 2". Thats when we discoverd the bad wheel bearing in the passenger side rear which caused the tire to sit at more of a tow out angle and you could see where it has rubbed the wheel well. He showed me how to adjust the ride hight and said that has to come up another 2". I could also see it in the video of me drag racing. The rear end just sunk down big time. And the other two ZR-1s that came with me hardly budged. That leads me to believe its shocks. Nothing else looks broke under there.
If you're going to go the coil over route, then spend the bucks in that direction. You'll be losing the leaf springs, F&R and all the bushings. Your shocks should be sent in to Bilstein for re-valving, grooving & repairs if needed.
Then, you can adjust the height independently at all 4 corners. The tow (toe) out you are referring to is more than likely camber. Toe doesn't change with squat, but camber does.
Now, when you finish with the coilovers, replace the camber struts with heavy duty spherical heim-end assys. When you do that, you eliminate the rubber & that goofy eccentric camber adjuster and end up with some really good camber control. And then there's the heim-end rear toe rod assy...... and the rear links that can use some poly bushings...... oh yes, don't forget the sway bar poly bushings. You know, it just goes on & on.
BTW, you guys were there when I talked to Corey this afternoon. He said Brad was there!
Take care,
Jerry
Paul Workman
01-15-2009, 07:03 AM
I waited till now to mention the transverse spring. I believe you may more likely have an issue there as the shocks do not lift the rear that much. Run you hand (carefully - gingerly) over the top of the rear spring and see if it is splintering - a problem I had with my 95 LT1 Vette. The shocks may well need attention too, but that would be more of a dynamic problem - and wouldn't affect the static problem you're dealing with.
So, my money is on the spring or the adjustment thereof, but NOT the shocks. But, you can have the shocks rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of new ones, and that would be my route too.
Let us know what you find.
P.
rhipsher
01-15-2009, 02:20 PM
I'll get under there tonight and check it out. Its not something that gradually got worse. It happened over night. I guess those components can break instantly if pushed hard enough.
jonszr1
01-15-2009, 11:57 PM
wel rick i made it home @7pm . traveled 3796.6 mile from sun # 8 pm til 7 pm tonight . sure was fun finally meeting you and your bride as wellas your 2 cute daughters. guys rick doesnt have the original shocks on the car he has kybs . i have an extra set i am gong to send him free of charge.we hd a fun day 2 corey tunning the my 92 2which he did an awsome job on . rick and i took turns driving her on the way home and the new found power almost caused us to both, spin her out .hehe caught us both by surprize . corey really found alot of missing power . and we both learned alot that day .call ya tomarrow rick as i am a blob from 25 hrs in the seat none stop
rhipsher
01-16-2009, 01:53 PM
That was super nice to do what you did for Vickie. That really meant allot to her. They look great on the wall. When Megan saw them she had a smile from ear to ear. I won't forget it brother. Get some rest and we will talk soon.
rhipsher
01-16-2009, 02:49 PM
Well I got under the car again last night and again did not see anything wrong other than the bad wheel bearing. Something is causing the rear end to squat big time upon hard acceleration. Even my buddy that took pictures of me launching at the drag strip said your rear end sunk down big time launching off the line. My mono leaf spring is not cracked. It looks good top and bottom. There's only a few things it could be which brings me back to shocks. All the bolts are tight. All the bushings look fine. I've driven a car that had bad shocks before and it makes the car feel squashy and ride low. The car has KYB gas shocks on it. I have the original Bilstiens in a box. They need to be rebuilt. My passenger side tires both have bad wheel bearings but that has nothing to do with the entire rear end squatting. From the ground to the highest point of the wheel well it measures 28". I gues the mono spring could be cracked in the middle where I cant see it. Anyway I've got to get back to work.
USAFPILOT
01-16-2009, 02:55 PM
Get those original shocks rebuilt with the Morocco valving or whatever and get your actuators working. The MOracca morocco moaco moraco anyone know how to spell it should stiffen it right up.
But another cheaper shock idea is what I put on my 96LT4 I owned previously. It was the Edlebrock Performer IAS (inertia actuated schock) they really fixed up that 100,000 mile LT4 when I put those on in place of the worn out Bilsteins
Or you could just pop for the Coil Over Setup and some of those pricey Penske adjustable shocks with the seperate reservior etc.
jonszr1
01-16-2009, 05:11 PM
the only problem is money doesnt grow on trees. rick has kids and wife that have needs too . that is why i offered the kyb shocks and the other parts i drove to him .he does love his car as we all do .just sometimes things have to be put on the back burner for family reasons .heck thats why he has friends so we can help out those in need .
USAFPILOT
01-16-2009, 09:07 PM
I know Rick...I was just messing with him. If I wasn't stuck in NJ all the time these days I would be over there wrenching on his car with him. Maybe my airline will cut me a little slack one of these days and let me return to Houston.
jonszr1
01-17-2009, 01:30 AM
yeah i know what ya mean Ricks good nature makes him fun to tease:mrgreen:
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