Clutch replacement pictures.

[rhipsher]

I had told somebody on this site that I would post pictures of me removing and installing a new clutch when my throw out bearing broke clean off close to a year ago. Since I'm only allowed to post no more than 6 pics at a time here I'll just post the link to them. And maybe it will help somebody in the future. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/zr-1-general-technical-discussion/105146-here-pictures-clutch-job.html:thumbsup:

[HADI-ZR1]

Well, this picture very helpful, what that part laying there?? :mrgreen:

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/Clutchjob028.jpg

[rhipsher]

Well, this picture very helpful, what that part laying there?? :mrgreen:

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/keeno1970/Clutchjob028.jpg
You like that uh! That was my best side.

[DaveK]

Nice set of pictures, looking forward to you completing the full write up mentioned.

Thanks for the resource :thumbsup:

Dave

[rhipsher]

Nice set of pictures, looking forward to you completing the full write up mentioned.

Thanks for the resource :thumbsup:

Dave

I know. I've been lagging on doing that. Its been so long I nearly forgot about it. I don't really visit the action center very much anymore. Not much really goes on there.

[Hammer]

I know. I've been lagging on doing that. Its been so long I nearly forgot about it. I don't really visit the action center very much anymore. Not much really goes on there.

That's for sure. The CF has died off from two years ago too. The Registrymis where we belong anyway. It's specifically for our cars.

If you've gone to the trouble of a write up with pics, you might think about sending it to Dwight for the HOTB. He needs articles and this would be a great one to include.

[rhipsher]

You guys have inspired me to go ahead and complete the write up. Those pictures only cover a portion of the job. It doesn't cover me having to remove the C-beam bolts(which are a freaken pain in the azz because you can't even get your hands up between the tunnel and the C-beam to even touch or see the nuts) And I will cover how I did that in the write up. And the neat little trick you can use to guide the pilot bushing in the hole straight every time. And control how deep it goes. Its a big big job and takes about 18 hours. That is if you do it by yourself like I did. USAFPILOT came over to help me lift and line up the spline/transmission with the pilot bushing which only took 20 minute. But the rest was just me by my lonesome with my little garage radio listening to classic rock. You wouldn't believe how many times I heard Led Zepplin in that 18 hour period. Enough for a lifetime.

[A26B]

Good Job! Right on about how heavy the tranny is. Definitely easier & safer with 2 guys for R&R. It's also a good time to make sure the valley drain tube is not plugged and to replace the rear seal if there's any leakage.

Here's a simple tool I made from bolts to help align the trans during install to avoid ever letting the weight of the trans rest on the clutch disk which can warp the disc. Just screw them into the bellhousing, a couple in the top holes and another on the side or bottom, just enough to have full thread engagement in the bellhousing. Slide the trans in & install one bolt just snug to hold it in place then use your fingers to remove the alignment studs.

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/transalignstudtool.jpg

ZFDoc's C-beam plates solve a couple of issues very nicely, including making the C-beam nuts a breeze. Our Prez, Ron Kreigh sells them.

[billybaloneey]

Good Job! Right on about how heavy the tranny is. Definitely easier & safer with 2 guys for R&R. It's also a good time to make sure the valley drain tube is not plugged and to replace the rear seal if there's any leakage.

Here's a simple tool I made from bolts to help align the trans during install to avoid ever letting the weight of the trans rest on the clutch disk which can warp the disc. Just screw them into the bellhousing, a couple in the top holes and another on the side or bottom, just enough to have full thread engagement in the bellhousing. Slide the trans in & install one bolt just snug to hold it in place then use your fingers to remove the alignment studs.

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/transalignstudtool.jpg

ZFDoc's C-beam plates solve a couple of issues very nicely, including making the C-beam nuts a breeze. Our Prez, Ron Kreigh sells them.


Nice common sense tip.

[Jagdpanzer]

Good Job! Right on about how heavy the tranny is. Definitely easier & safer with 2 guys for R&R. It's also a good time to make sure the valley drain tube is not plugged and to replace the rear seal if there's any leakage.

Here's a simple tool I made from bolts to help align the trans during install to avoid ever letting the weight of the trans rest on the clutch disk which can warp the disc. Just screw them into the bellhousing, a couple in the top holes and another on the side or bottom, just enough to have full thread engagement in the bellhousing. Slide the trans in & install one bolt just snug to hold it in place then use your fingers to remove the alignment studs.

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/transalignstudtool.jpg

ZFDoc's C-beam plates solve a couple of issues very nicely, including making the C-beam nuts a breeze. Our Prez, Ron Kreigh sells them.

I also used this guide stud idea when I installed an aluminum flywheel this summer and it sure made stabbing the transmission back in a breeze. I found makinge one stud a little longer than the others helped with getting the first trans hole started.

[rhipsher]

The whole job is pretty much common sense. The only thing I really used the manual for was for torque specs. And I was encouraged to get rid of the duel mass flywheel while I had it apart and go with a Fedanza single mass flywheel. But I had it almost put back together and wasn't going to take it apart again for that.

[rhipsher]

I'll get to work on it.

[DaveK]

A write up in HOTB is a great idea! Looking forward to it :cheers: