Anyone with StainlessWorks headers

[vandornjim]

Has anyone installed a set of Stainlessworks headers from this first batch? If so, please email me privately.

Thanks
jvd

[zrwhat]

Has anyone installed a set of Stainlessworks headers from this first batch? If so, please email me privately.

Thanks
jvd

Jim,

ZZZZZR1 (Dave Johnson) just installed a set on his 94, I've had a chance to see them and they look great. Dave will have to chime in on the install.

I can tell you one thing, they must flow pretty good because they spit out the guts of one of his brand new Random Cats!

Tell em Dave!

Jeff G

[Jeffvette]

Has anyone installed a set of Stainlessworks headers from this first batch? If so, please email me privately.

Thanks
jvd


Good talking to you Jim.

Jim,

ZZZZZR1 (Dave Johnson) just installed a set on his 94, I've had a chance to see them and they look great. Dave will have to chime in on the install.

I can tell you one thing, they must flow pretty good because they spit out the guts of one of his brand new Random Cats!

Tell em Dave!

Jeff G

Dave didn't install a set. Stainless works installed them.

And it wasn't the flow that spit the guts out of the cat. The cat was either damaged, or the motor was dumping fuel and killed the cat.

[FU]

http://blacktable.com/images/0411pics/deadcat.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

http://blacktable.com/images/0411pics/deadcat.jpg


:mrgreen: Nice one Frank. Nobody likes a dead cat !! :worship:

[ZZZZZR1]

Good talking to you Jim.



Dave didn't install a set. Stainless works installed them.

And it wasn't the flow that spit the guts out of the cat. The cat was either damaged, or the motor was dumping fuel and killed the cat.


Love the headers and yes Jeff, I didn't install them(thanks SW). Unsure how the cat got blown out, but SW has offered to replace it. :thumbsup:

JVD mentioned he had issues with a dipstick, but has anyone else had issues? If so, speak up! Only issue I have heard of thus far was an installer had issues with the EGR, but SW walked it thru on the phone (first time install for the installer).

[Gunny]

re: dipstick

I put SW headers on my 90 a little over a year ago. The dipstick would not line up properly without a slight mod.

Remove (unweld) the mounting bracket midway up the dipstick tube. After you get the headers installed, put the dipstick tube in, then align it to the best bolt on the headers. Mark where you need to reweld the mounting bracket, touch up with some black paint, and reinstall. Be sure to use a new grommet on the bottom.

Forgive the poor instructions above. I'm not the most mechanically able but once you look at it and how it works, it should be fairly obvious on how to do it. I had a friend with a welder help me and I think it took him all of 5 minutes to made the mod.

Good luck,

George

[Jagdpanzer]

I put a set of SW headers on just before Carlisle and all went smooth. Even got all 28 bolts in to. Used Jeffvette's tip on how to bolt down the dipstick.

[TN90-ZR1]

I just had a set installed last week on a 90, along with a Heiback Performance Chip. The only problem the installer had was w/ the EGR which he worked through w/ a call to SW as Dave mentioned in a previous post. The car runs and sounds awesome.

[Pete]

I don't understand about the dipstick:icon_scra

I have Jeal headers and the dipstick is mounted between cylinder #4 and #2 header tubes to the top second screw(front to back cylinder #2 tube)
I just have to use one of the facory spacers.

What is the dipstick problem with the SW's?

Pete

[Jeffvette]

I don't understand about the dipstick:icon_scra

I have Jeal headers and the dipstick is mounted between cylinder #4 and #2 header tubes to the top second screw(front to back cylinder #2 tube)
I just have to use one of the facory spacers.

What is the dipstick problem with the SW's?

Pete

The factory bolt will not fit in the space allocated.

[jonszr1]

yes i agree with jeff the pipe is in the way the only way i got around it was to grind down the spacer and do the same to the integrated washer on the factory bolt. i had to grind it to the size of the bolt head. one other thing would have been to include an extention for the passenger side o2 sensor . i made my own but could understand the frustrating thoughts some could go through have the install all done ,but then have to have someone make an o2 sensor ext. i remember when i bought my jeals 4 years ago i had everything to do the job. jmho

[Pete]

i remember when i bought my jeals 4 years ago i had everything to do the job. jmho

Yeap,bought my Jeals almost 10 years ago,they came with O2 wires
and pipes to fit bother early and late model ZR-1's.

Jeff,thanks now i understand.

Pete

[-=Jeff=-]

Yeap,bought my Jeals almost 10 years ago,they came with O2 wires
and pipes to fit bother early and late model ZR-1's.

Jeff,thanks now i understand.

Pete

Pete I remember when you ordered your Jeals.. wow time flies

[vandornjim]

Love the headers and yes Jeff, I didn't install them(thanks SW). Unsure how the cat got blown out, but SW has offered to replace it. :thumbsup:

JVD mentioned he had issues with a dipstick, but has anyone else had issues? If so, speak up! Only issue I have heard of thus far was an installer had issues with the EGR, but SW walked it thru on the phone (first time install for the installer).

Well, yep, we had several issues. Our install vehicle was a 1995 and we had an issue with the dipstick. Namely, it had to be bent and relocated before it would fit on the headers. I should also point out that the header set we installed were the "short" type, or, the type you would buy to fit your factory cats and exhaust. There are/were other problems.

The RH extension piece supplied by SW was too long and did not fit. This creates a major problem as the piece also has a unique compound bend to each end. No one locally had the equipment to modify this piece so we elected to cut the 1 1/2 in too long piece out of the middle, then tig the piece back together. It worked perfectly, though I do not like having a cross cut in this extension piece.

When we were installing, I questioned the use of the blue "rubber" type hose extension which is supposed to be for the EGR. The SW headers have an EGR provision, but the factory tubing is some 8 inches too short to reach it. So, they include the hose, which they said was some special type of hi heat silicon. It isn't. It's heater hose. Our customer drove home, (500 miles) and the hose was in pieces and burned into powder. :mad:

I called SW and asked for some tech suport, and was assured I would hear back within the hour. Four hours later I called again and this time Jim answered. He was not aware of the problem but said he would look into the solution and get back to me. I'm waiting to hear back.

It doesn't have to be said but tech support from a manufacturer is a very important part of the business and that hasn't been stellar to say the least at this point. I have also heard from others that there have been problems in this area. I will let you know how this issue is resolved.

So the bottom line is if you are thinking about the SW short OEM type replacment headers, you might wait until we get the bugs out before going too much further. [-X

jvd in bg

[Hammer]

Well, yep, we had several issues. Our install vehicle was a 1995 and we had an issue with the dipstick. Namely, it had to be bent and relocated before it would fit on the headers. I should also point out that the header set we installed were the "short" type, or, the type you would buy to fit your factory cats and exhaust. There are/were other problems.

The RH extension piece supplied by SW was too long and did not fit. This creates a major problem as the piece also has a unique compound bend to each end. No one locally had the equipment to modify this piece so we elected to cut the 1 1/2 in too long piece out of the middle, then tig the piece back together. It worked perfectly, though I do not like having a cross cut in this extension piece.

When we were installing, I questioned the use of the blue "rubber" type hose extension which is supposed to be for the EGR. The SW headers have an EGR provision, but the factory tubing is some 8 inches too short to reach it. So, they include the hose, which they said was some special type of hi heat silicon. It isn't. It's heater hose. Our customer drove home, (500 miles) and the hose was in pieces and burned into powder. :mad:

I called SW and asked for some tech suport, and was assured I would hear back within the hour. Four hours later I called again and this time Jim answered. He was not aware of the problem but said he would look into the solution and get back to me. I'm waiting to hear back.

It doesn't have to be said but tech support from a manufacturer is a very important part of the business and that hasn't been stellar to say the least at this point. I have also heard from others that there have been problems in this area. I will let you know how this issue is resolved.

So the bottom line is if you are thinking about the SW short OEM type replacment headers, you might wait until we get the bugs out before going too much further. [-X

jvd in bg

Jim,
What do you use to seal the bottom of the dipstick in the pan?

[vandornjim]

Jim,
What do you use to seal the bottom of the dipstick in the pan?

We use the OEM seal, little rubber thingymobobber. Are they discontinued? I remember back in '95 when a guy at the plant told me they were and sent me a whole bag full.....they're 'round here somewhere....
jvd in bg

[zr1mom]

Just so everyone knows we have over 30 of these systems installed on ZR-1's.

First the EGR hose is the same one that GM uses. There is only one reason this hose would melt. If the LT5 is not tuned right, for example an after market chip was added and excess fuel was being injected the headers will run super hot. This happen on one other ZR-1 and that was the problem found.

If the owner from Mich contacts me we will replace any part he needs or even make a custom piece if need be.

As far as the O2 sensors the wires are long enough. If yours doesn't fit it's either because the wire is not being fully stretch or has been modify in the past.

For the dipstick issue if anyone can send me pictures I would love to see them. Also let me know which headers you installed and year of ZR-1.

SW will do whatever it takes to make it right.

Thanks!
zr1net@zr1.net

[jonszr1]

i dont mean to differ with the above , but there was no way my o2 sensor wire was modified in any way not the harness it was connected to or the brand new o2 sensor i bought for the install . mine was 8 inches to short .i even cked the wiring on both cars . unless they made it longer on the years after 92? i am just stating what i found and sharing in the hopes future sets can be improved upon . if we dont share it cant be made better and thats all i would like to see .

[vandornjim]

Just so everyone knows we have over 30 of these systems installed on ZR-1's.

First the EGR hose is the same one that GM uses. There is only one reason this hose would melt. If the LT5 is not tuned right, for example an after market chip was added and excess fuel was being injected the headers will run super hot. This happen on one other ZR-1 and that was the problem found.

Hey there Dave, yes there are some conditions that can cause a "hotter" exhaust, but this isn't the case on this particular vehicle. That type of mis-calibration will also cause a meltdown of the cats and 02's themselves but you've really got to be pretty far off cal for this to occur. After all, the ECM will also have a say in the mixture control etc.

I'm not one to argue with good 'ol Mom :), but I've been around just as long and in fact, this is what we do (since 1990). Contrary to the statement above, this is NOT the same hose that GM uses. GM has uses a somewhat flexible METAL line and this is a RUBBER hose that SW said was actually a Napa heater hose. To say there is "only one reason this hose would melt" is a pretty strong statement to make, and not true in this case. Only "one" reasons are pretty rare in today's world anyway.:) Besides, what happens to one vehicle isn't necessarily the "norm" for all vehicles.

I'm not sure if a different type of provision is used on their different styles, but in the case of the short type system, the factory EGR tube isn't long enough. This hose will not hold up to exhaust gas and this was recognized by Jim at SW. He suggested a longer metal extension and I agreed. We are trying to figure out how to get a mockup.

In any case, the purpose of my post was to gather information and share our first experience with the SW product. As with any new venture, there are certainly some growing pains which must be gone through. My goal is by working together, we can benefit many here on the list, like we have since the beginning.

Thanks for all your input, we'll keep you posted.

jvd in bg

[jonszr1]

glad to see that you are working with them to make this a better deal.and thankyou for asking for our input .once again i did not mean to come off like i was bitching , just sharing to make things better . its nice that this company supports our cars as they do , for that i am very thankfull:thumbsup:

[zr1mom]

i dont mean to differ with the above , but there was no way my o2 sensor wire was modified in any way not the harness it was connected to or the brand new o2 sensor i bought for the install . mine was 8 inches to short .i even cked the wiring on both cars . unless they made it longer on the years after 92? i am just stating what i found and sharing in the hopes future sets can be improved upon . if we dont share it cant be made better and thats all i would like to see .

Understand and didn't mean to imply that these could be the only reasons for a short wire. We just haven't seen it on a regular basis so if others have had this issue we want to know. Maybe it is a particular year? :icon_scra

We will be doing an install on a '90 soon at SW so we'll see if any of these issues come up.

Thanks!

[zr1mom]

Hey there Dave, yes there are some conditions that can cause a "hotter" exhaust, but this isn't the case on this particular vehicle. That type of mis-calibration will also cause a meltdown of the cats and 02's themselves but you've really got to be pretty far off cal for this to occur. After all, the ECM will also have a say in the mixture control etc.

I'm not one to argue with good 'ol Mom :), but I've been around just as long and in fact, this is what we do (since 1990). Contrary to the statement above, this is NOT the same hose that GM uses. GM has uses a somewhat flexible METAL line and this is a RUBBER hose that SW said was actually a Napa heater hose. To say there is "only one reason this hose would melt" is a pretty strong statement to make, and not true in this case. Only "one" reasons are pretty rare in today's world anyway.:) Besides, what happens to one vehicle isn't necessarily the "norm" for all vehicles.

I'm not sure if a different type of provision is used on their different styles, but in the case of the short type system, the factory EGR tube isn't long enough. This hose will not hold up to exhaust gas and this was recognized by Jim at SW. He suggested a longer metal extension and I agreed. We are trying to figure out how to get a mockup.

In any case, the purpose of my post was to gather information and share our first experience with the SW product. As with any new venture, there are certainly some growing pains which must be gone through. My goal is by working together, we can benefit many here on the list, like we have since the beginning.

Thanks for all your input, we'll keep you posted.

jvd in bg


I agree the goal here is to make the best product possible so we need to recognize and correct any real issues.

Any issues found need to be well documented and pictures help a great deal in quickly resolving these problems.

I will work closely with SW to resolve any problems we have with installations and will report them here.

Thanks!

[Jeffvette]

Just so everyone knows we have over 30 of these systems installed on ZR-1's.

Dave were they all fitted with EGR?


First the EGR hose is the same one that GM uses.

GM on the right, SW on the left.

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/SSW_Headers/tubes.JPG

[Jeffvette]

Understand and didn't mean to imply that these could be the only reasons for a short wire. We just haven't seen it on a regular basis so if others have had this issue we want to know. Maybe it is a particular year? :icon_scra

We will be doing an install on a '90 soon at SW so we'll see if any of these issues come up.

Thanks!


The passenger side O2 harness on 90-92 comes from the front side of the motor. In 93, GM routed it coming down from the back side of the block.

[GOLDCYLON]

Understand and didn't mean to imply that these could be the only reasons for a short wire. We just haven't seen it on a regular basis so if others have had this issue we want to know. Maybe it is a particular year? :icon_scra

We will be doing an install on a '90 soon at SW so we'll see if any of these issues come up.

Thanks!


Mom this being the case they will need a pair of O2 extender harnesses. As stated by several posters the 90-92s are differnet as a part of the solid cat movement vs the 93-95 crowd.

[jonszr1]

no wonder they didnt have a problem with the first install on the o2 , so its just the 90-92 that need an extention . sure is fun getting to the passenger side connector on both my 90-92:redface:

[Pete]

Look you guys are knit picking at least on the O2 wires,simple fix.
JVD on the pipes, you should try fitting the other brand of headers made for our cars, Oh wait there isn't anyone else.

Just be glad somebody makes headers for our cars.

JVD just help fix the pipe problems with SW for future ZR-1 installers.

I don't know how the EGR stuff is, can you weld stainless AN ends with a stainless flex pipe
Sometimes we have to think outside the box.

Pete

[LGNDLT5]

We use the OEM seal, little rubber thingymobobber. Are they discontinued? I remember back in '95 when a guy at the plant told me they were and sent me a whole bag full.....they're 'round here somewhere....
jvd in bg


Hi Jim.
Sorry to pester you with such a little thing... If/When you find the dipstick tube seal can I purchase one? My SW headers are still boxed but DO need to be installed. If you run across them and are willing to part with one (I suspect others are interested also), I would be grateful for an email with paypal or other payment info. It would be nice to go in with a new seal. Not in a hurry just hoping to connect, so to speak, at some point. Thanks. John R.Sullivan john.sullivan@protective.com 847-275-4841 ;)

[zr1mom]

So a further update, I spoke with the man himself Marc Haibeck who has installed many of these. Also spoke with SW.

1. O2 Sensors:

For '90 -92 ZR-1's the DRIVERS side wire will reach however you have to do the following. There is a black plastic sheath that has extra wire inside of it. If you cut open this sheath you can pull out enough wire to reach.

For '93 - '95 ZR-1's the DRIVERS side cable is long enough.

For '90 - '92 ZR-1's the PASSENGER side cable is too short and you need an 18" extension. For those that need it SW will supply you one for free.

For '93 - '95 ZR-1's the PASSENGER side cable is long enough.


So what it all comes down to is for the 405hp ZR-1's you're all set. For the 375hp ZR-1's you need an O2 extension for the right side.

Also important you tie wrap the cables as to not touch the headers.

One other note for "93 - "95 owners if you want longer cables you can buy the '90-'92 O2 sensors which will work and they have longer cables then the '93-'95 O2 sensors.

2. EGR extension hose:

First only the '93 to '95 ZR-1's even need this for emissions. If you don't need to pass emissions in your state you don't need it and can program the memcal to turn it off.

On the hose itself SW has been using this hose for years on many other models, like mustangs, camaros, etc with no issues.

3. Oil drip stick:

Still looking into this. I need more info, pictures etc. Once SW does the install for the '90 we'll know more as well.

Thanks!

[GOLDCYLON]

Look you guys are knit picking at least on the O2 wires,simple fix.
JVD on the pipes, you should try fitting the other brand of headers made for our cars, Oh wait there isn't anyone else.

Just be glad somebody makes headers for our cars.

JVD just help fix the pipe problems with SW for future ZR-1 installers.

I don't know how the EGR stuff is, can you weld stainless AN ends with a stainless flex pipe
Sometimes we have to think outside the box.

Pete

ahhh.. No Pete :dontknow:we are not nit picking we were ALL asked about specific issues as ZZZZZr1 asked to post those issues up in post #6 and the responses so far ARE valid. With the end goal of making a better product as discussed by ZR1MOM. Yes it is good to have a another header option for those of us that are not running Jeals. However the issues brought up are not invalidated because a single product is available. Hopefully SSW is taking notes and continues to push a better product in the near term. The oil dipstick problem and the EGR tubing are issues that could be easily resolved. The wire harness extension is more of just an annoyance factor from GM in the early years which bothered them enough to reroute the wires. The attempt here is to not slam anybody, but post up what we have all seen, know or at least heard. GC

[jonszr1]

very nice update ,it seems like the issues are getting fixed very quickly . shows how much stainless works cares :thumbsup:

[zr1don]

I installed my SW headers on my 90 Z two weeks ago.

Issues:
1. Oil dip stick bracket could not be bolted up. Factory spacer & bolt would not work. #4 exhaust tube interfered w/long bolt & spacer. Tried shortening bolt & spacer, could not get it to work. Ended up cutting the bracket off the dip stick tube, welded it back on to the oppisite side of tube & it fits w/SW bolt & no spacer.

2. Headers had EGR tube in passenger side header. Cut tube off flush & welded patch over hole.

3. Passenger side O2 sensor wiring was too short, made extension & installed.

4. Passenger side extension tube behind cat was too long, cut approximately an inch off both ends of extension.

5. I live in CA & the AIR injection system is required to pass smog. I removed the AIR tubes from my factory exhaust & installed (welded) them to the SW's.

System sounds great, seat of the pants it pulls much stronger in upper rpm range (5-7,000).

[GOLDCYLON]

I installed my SW headers on my 90 Z two weeks ago.

Issues:
1. Oil dip stick bracket could not be bolted up. Factory spacer & bolt would not work. #4 exhaust tube interfered w/long bolt & spacer. Tried shortening bolt & spacer, could not get it to work. Ended up cutting the bracket off the dip stick tube, welded it back on to the oppisite side of tube & it fits w/SW bolt & no spacer.

2. Headers had EGR tube in passenger side header. Cut tube off flush & welded patch over hole.

3. Passenger side O2 sensor wiring was too short, made extension & installed.

4. Passenger side extension tube behind cat was too long, cut approximately an inch off both ends of extension.

5. I live in CA & the AIR injection system is required to pass smog. I removed the AIR tubes from my factory exhaust & installed (welded) them to the SW's.

System sounds great, seat of the pants it pulls much stronger in upper rpm range (5-7,000).


Thanks Don, helpful and productive comments :handshak:

[zr1mom]

very nice update ,it seems like the issues are getting fixed very quickly . shows how much stainless works cares :thumbsup:


They really do care and want to make sure you're happy. Is it perfect yet no but with everyones help we will make it perfect.

Thanks!

[zr1mom]

I installed my SW headers on my 90 Z two weeks ago.

Issues:
1. Oil dip stick bracket could not be bolted up. Factory spacer & bolt would not work. #4 exhaust tube interfered w/long bolt & spacer. Tried shortening bolt & spacer, could not get it to work. Ended up cutting the bracket off the dip stick tube, welded it back on to the oppisite side of tube & it fits w/SW bolt & no spacer.

2. Headers had EGR tube in passenger side header. Cut tube off flush & welded patch over hole.

3. Passenger side O2 sensor wiring was too short, made extension & installed.

4. Passenger side extension tube behind cat was too long, cut approximately an inch off both ends of extension.

5. I live in CA & the AIR injection system is required to pass smog. I removed the AIR tubes from my factory exhaust & installed (welded) them to the SW's.

System sounds great, seat of the pants it pulls much stronger in upper rpm range (5-7,000).

Thanks ZR1DON this is the kind of info we need. :thumbsup:

[Aurora40]

Just curious, what is different with this latest run of them? Haven't people been installing these for a few years successfully?

[vandornjim]

They really do care and want to make sure you're happy. Is it perfect yet no but with everyones help we will make it perfect.

Thanks!

Was just wondering if there was any word regarding my original problem, the EGR fix? I haven't heard a word from their customer service.
thanks

[32valvZ]

I bought my SW's just before the GP in Bowling Green at the Gathering in May. The install went well, but I needed the extensions on both sides. If you want to route the wires and have them out of the way with a professional install in mind, the extensions are needed. Not doubting Marc Haibeck..... you can get the driver side to plug in, but its still too tight in my opinion.

[vandornjim]

Just a followup note regarding Stainless Works. Though they promised to get back to me regarding the EGR pipe extension, I haven't heard a word from their customer service or tech dept. Not good...

[z proud]

installed a set oF SW on my 91 They are the first set done with air tubes done by SW, no egr tube, with cats,

I used JEFFEVETTE'S o2 extenders and bracket for the oil dipstick. Worked great.

I did post photos of a few concerns on the air tube fitment..

Headers on all cars need some tweeking. All and all I am Happy!!
Stainless works teck worked with me on the air tubes.

[Pete]

I installed my SW headers on my 90 Z two weeks ago.

Issues:
1. Oil dip stick bracket could not be bolted up. Factory spacer & bolt would not work. #4 exhaust tube interfered w/long bolt & spacer. Tried shortening bolt & spacer, could not get it to work. Ended up cutting the bracket off the dip stick tube, welded it back on to the oppisite side of tube & it fits w/SW bolt & no spacer.

2. Headers had EGR tube in passenger side header. Cut tube off flush & welded patch over hole.

3. Passenger side O2 sensor wiring was too short, made extension & installed.

4. Passenger side extension tube behind cat was too long, cut approximately an inch off both ends of extension.

5. I live in CA & the AIR injection system is required to pass smog. I removed the AIR tubes from my factory exhaust & installed (welded) them to the SW's.

System sounds great, seat of the pants it pulls much stronger in upper rpm range (5-7,000).


Here is a man that thought outside the box and fixed his AIR problem.

This is all i was saying,i was not trying to be a smarta$$,maybe i was :)
I was only suggesting JVD contact SW to try and resolve the issue,JVD could have giving SW a chance to correct the issue before posting.

The O2's is where i said was the nit pick.

With our LT5's we have to think outside the box,i wish we didn't have to but sometimes there's no other way.

I hope SW got back to JVD.,update please.

Pete

[Chris_32212]

i just had a set of SW headers installed for me by the local corvette GURU down here in lehi UT. Shop is called Lung Automotive. they were more then fair on the pricing and all that but he didn't mention anything about needing to mod the dip stick. i will ask him about it in the morning and see what he says and reupdate this. i just got the car back today. it had a broken clutch fork. lol. seriously!!! i drove the car home from a cruise in the canyons and went to start the next morning and the clutch pedal stopped short of the fire wall by about 4-6". i had it towed to Lung automotive and he pulled the slave and said the fork looked bent and that meant that the trans had to come out, which meant the exhaust had to come out, which meant that it was a perfect opportunity to put in some stainless works headers, B&B cat back with X pipe, magnaflow metal core high flow cats (highly reccomended BTW), Stage 2 clutch, and a light weight fidanza flywheel. i now have the clutch fork in my garage and its not only bent, its cracked almost in half. The car sounds orgasmic by the way. :dancing very noticable improvement in performance.

[vandornjim]

This is all i was saying,i was not trying to be a smarta$$,maybe i was :)
I was only suggesting JVD contact SW to try and resolve the issue,JVD could have giving SW a chance to correct the issue before posting.
I hope SW got back to JVD.,update please.
Pete

Well Pete, it has been pointed out already that I only asked for info from others who had installed these headers. Others here asked for more and complete feedback. I did make a call to SW for assistance and my call was never returned.

UPDATE: On the '95 setup we discussed. The EGR "tube" that is/was supplied with the SW kit is not a tube at all, it is a heater hose. It has a temperature cap of 300 degrees, far from adequate for the LT5 exhaust temps. Our customer is 500 miles away but is very capable so we suggested he fabricate an aluminum tube to take the place of the melted hose. Instead, he found another type of silicon hose but it too melted rather quickly. The vehicle began to run extremely rough and I surmised the EGR system inhaled the melted particles and they were possibly causing the valves not to close properly.
After making and installing the aluminum tube we described, I told the customer to go drive the car hard which blew anything in the valve system right out the pipes. The vehicle ran perfectly after that and in fact, he took it to two dyno facilities who were very impressed with the 13 year old "Street Skinner" package's performance of some 500+ corrected hp.

Also, one person claimed that our air/fuel ratio must be far off and therefore causing the exhaust to run hotter. Of course we have been doing calibrations for Corvettes for some 18 years now, however, our calibration was also tested by each dyno facility and they were very impressed with our accuracy. See our website under "Testimonials" in about a week.

I have never received a return call from Stainless Works with regards to my initial request for technical assistance though someone from their company did stop by our shop to visit on their way to the GoodGuy Nationals at nearby Beech Bend Raceway.

Sorry to have been so quiet lately but we've had much to do and we're having a blast. Any of you interested in scheduling winter work, please let us know ASAP.

Very sorry to hear about our friend Elfie Duntov. God Speed Elfie.:angel12:

[Chris_32212]

Update: my SW headers are in and the oil dip stick tube required just a slight bend in oder to clear the header pipe on my 93 ZR-1.

[Dynomite]

I am reviving this old thread :cheers: Installing SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZRICHAMSW tomorrow on my 91' Z :D

Or should I say I will START the installation tomorrow :happy1:

If I have questions, I will post them here :icon_stud:

It should be a lot easier to install the SW system which has several separate pieces than it was to remove the stock welded up exhaust system trying to pull that system out from under the Z on the floor between my floor jacks :sign10:

I have my acetylene torch and arc welder handy if things get rough :rolleyes:

[Paul Workman]

Marc H said I'd have to make a bracket to attache the dipstick tube to the header, and so I did. It ended up being a "Z" shape which attaches to a convenient header bolt on one end and provides a purchase for the stock "ear" on the dipstick, with a little grinding with the Dremel to accommodate the shape of the tube. Turned out fine: No biggie at all.

From start to finish, including painting, was under 30 minutes time with a drill, Dremel, a vise and a hammer. (Can't seem to lay my hands on it just now. But, if I remember where I put it, I'll take a pic of it for yaz.)

P.

[Dynomite]

Marc H said I'd have to make a bracket to attache the dipstick tube to the header, and so I did. It ended up being a "Z" shape which attaches to a convenient header bolt on one end and provides a purchase for the stock "ear" on the dipstick, with a little grinding with the Dremel to accommodate the shape of the tube. Turned out fine: No biggie at all.

From start to finish, including painting, was under 30 minutes time with a drill, Dremel, a vise and a hammer. (Can't seem to lay my hands on it just now. But, if I remember where I put it, I'll take a pic of it for yaz.)

P.
I was hoping there was a cure for the oil dipstick by now......but I will make what I need once I get a look at the problem :thumbsup:

So......you did not install it (bracket) since you are looking for it to take a picture?

[-=Jeff=-]

I was hoping there was a cure for the oil dipstick by now......but I will make what I need once I get a look at the problem :thumbsup:

So......you did not install it (bracket) since you are looking for it to take a picture?

No His motor is currently out of his car :thumbsup:

[Dynomite]

No His motor is currently out of his car :thumbsup:

That would be a great picture then if his SW headers are still attached to his engine :thumbsup:

It sounds like his oil dipstick bracket is not attached since he is looking for it :D

I was just curious if the SW headers just received have been modified to accomodate the oil dipstick since this was an issue before :happy1:

The stock exhaust manifold and muffler were removed today.....so we shall see how the SW system goes together :thumbsup:

Can I remove the air induction system completely without resulting in a warning light coming on for some reason? I think there might be a vacuum line to that system but am not sure (which should be plugged).

[32valvZ]

T
Can I remove the air induction system completely without resulting in a warning light coming on for some reason? I think there might be a vacuum line to that system but am not sure (which should be plugged).

You can remove everything without a SES light. Its been a while now, but I dont recall any vac lines needing to be plugged. Theres a bunch of stuff that will come out. (see pic)
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/Johnny-Mo/ZR-1AirInjectionRemoved.jpg

[Jeffvette]

You can remove everything without a SES light. Its been a while now, but I dont recall any vac lines needing to be plugged. Theres a bunch of stuff that will come out. (see pic)



There is a vacuum line you need to remove the "T" on and just put a straight coupler on. It is on the driver side fender skirt above the shock tower.

[Paul Workman]

I was hoping there was a cure for the oil dipstick by now......but I will make what I need once I get a look at the problem :thumbsup:

So......you did not install it (bracket) since you are looking for it to take a picture?

Yeah, Jeff is right...motor is out at the moment (moment???:rolleyes:)

It's no big deal, but like I said it was about a 30 minute job including painting. Here's some different pix. (I would have done what Pete suggested, except on my SW headers, the stock header bolt spacer interfered with the SW header tube. So this bracket attaches at one end under the front #6 port header bolt, and the other end clamps the stock hanger on the dipstick.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/bracket002Large.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/bracket003Large.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/bracket004Large.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/bracket005Large.jpg

As you can see, a couple bends, a couple holes, and I had to grind out a divit to allow the dipstick to poke under the edge of the bracket.

The dipstick tube is rock steady and keeps the tube away from the header tubes and presents the dip stick nicely.

P.

[carter200]

Paul,
Nice, functional fab work :thumbsup:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Paul,

You could make and sell those brackets. I'll buy one!!

[Dynomite]

Yeah, Jeff is right...motor is out at the moment (moment???:rolleyes:)

It's no big deal, but like I said it was about a 30 minute job including painting. Here's some different pix. (I would have done what Pete suggested, except on my SW headers, the stock header bolt spacer interfered with the SW header tube. So this bracket attaches at one end under the front #6 port header bolt, and the other end clamps the stock hanger on the dipstick.

As you can see, a couple bends, a couple holes, and I had to grind out a divit to allow the dipstick to poke under the edge of the bracket.

The dipstick tube is rock steady and keeps the tube away from the header tubes and presents the dip stick nicely.

P.

Thanks.....that is exactly what I am looking for ...I will see if the SW headers fit tomorrow :thumbsup:

[Dynomite]

You can remove everything without a SES light. Its been a while now, but I dont recall any vac lines needing to be plugged. Theres a bunch of stuff that will come out.

This is funny.....I actually had to remove most of that air induction stuff under the driverside headlight to get to those little radiator screws to remove the radiator :sign10: not knowing I could just leave that stuff out :cheers:

[32valvZ]

There is a vacuum line you need to remove the "T" on and just put a straight coupler on. It is on the driver side fender skirt above the shock tower.

Yes yes!! I remember I used a vac plug like you would on a carbuerator!

[Dynomite]

Yes yes!! I remember I used a vac plug like you would on a carbuerator!

I have a 91' Z and the SW headers have the EGR fitting on the passenger side facing forward (for those Zs I think 93 and newer that have EGR). I think since I do not have EGR on the 91' I will just braze that fitting closed. If I understand it correctly.

It will be great to get rid of a lot of that crapola for sure and I also will be running without CATS :cheers:

[Paul Workman]

It will be great to get rid of a lot of that crapola for sure and I also will be running without CATS :cheers:

Yes it will be nice! U gonna like the boost in performance!!;)

P.

[Dynomite]

There is a vacuum line you need to remove the "T" on and just put a straight coupler on. It is on the driver side fender skirt above the shock tower.

I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" (in front of "T" about 3 inches) back and plugged the "Y" back in where "T" was :thumbsup:

[ZZZZZR1]

I do not know what the fuss is about :sign10:

I just installed SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZRICHAMSW in 15 minutes. Of course it took two hours to get the original exhaust off as well as the air induction system. :D

I just used one of the existing spacers on the bolt for the oil dip stick and it fit perfectly. I plugged the EGR adapter on the SW passenger header with a 5/8 inch bolt ground down and cut off....just tapped it in for perfect fit.

Congrats!!! I didn't notice in earlier posts, but did you take off the wheel wells?

Everything fit well? No issues?

:cheers:

David

[Dynomite]

Congrats!!! I didn't notice in earlier posts, but did you take off the wheel wells?

Everything fit well? No issues?

:cheers:

David

Yes...removed wheel wells completely which took all of 10 minutes. NO issues at all....headers cleared everything easily....I modified the original CAT heat shields and put back in place to keep heat away from the 02 sensor wiring. Getting those original CATS out of the way made a BIG difference. I did not install CATS with SW so just have a short straight 3" tube section where the CATS were :thumbsup:

It actually took a bit longer than 15 minutes (It took about an hour to get to the passenger side 02 sensor plug) :sign10:

It is a very clean installation with the Air Induction system gone out of the way.

I am guessing Stainless Works did some home work in the last year and solved ALL the issues.

I would say the original stock exhaust system was ten times harder to remove than it was to install the SW ZR1CORVOR headers and SW ZR1CHAMSW 3 inch exhaust system :thumbsup:

[Dynomite]

Removing the original exhaust system is a lot easier if you have a 3/8 inch swivel, a set of flex metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of 3/8 inch wobble extensions :thumbsup:

A set of 3/8 inch metric sockets and 3/8 inch socket wrench is obvious :sign10:

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything.

Sears has them all......along with the 17 mm transmission plug allen wrench :D

[Dynomite]

Yes it will be nice! U gonna like the boost in performance!!;)

P.

:cheers:

By the way....I bet you like good foodz also :thumbsup:

[tomtom72]

Cliff,

first, congrats on doing the headers!:thumbsup:

Second: The "wobble" extensions, are they the one's that look like a C/V joint vs a U-joint......yea, my tool collection is that old, I have a rail of snap-on u-joint sockets that I bought back in '77 for working on my 72.:o

TIA
:cheers:
Tom

[Dynomite]

The "wobble" extensions, are they the one's that look like a C/V joint vs a U-joint......yea, my tool collection is that old, I have a rail of snap-on u-joint sockets that I bought back in '77 for working on my 72.:o

TIA
:cheers:
Tom

What I called a 3/8 inch swivel is actually a universal (the "U" joint) in the first picture.

The wobble extensions are in second and third pictures and flex ratchet combination wrenches in fourth picture.

You will notice what allows the wobble in the third picture.

There are all sorts of swivels and swivel socket combinations you can get but these four tools/tool sets will get er done assuming you have a good 3/8 inch socket wrench and set of metric sockets.

Oh...ya...you might need a good 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrench also. I like the ones that trip at your torque setting. And.....a good set of allen and torx wrenches.
.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/Universaladapter.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/ZR1%20Maintenance/Universaladapter.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/wobbleextension2.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/ZR1%20Maintenance/wobbleextension2.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/Wobbleextension.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/ZR1%20Maintenance/Wobbleextension.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/flexmetricratchet.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/ZR1%20Maintenance/flexmetricratchet.jpg.html)

[Dynomite]

Cliff,

first, congrats on doing the headers!:thumbsup:

TIA
:cheers:
Tom

Thanks Tom.

I have to say...looking at all that heavy steel I took off including CATS, exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes, mufflers, air injection it is amazing how cluttered it was. And all that exhaust had only one joint actually consisting of two sub joints behind each CATS. What a tangled mess. And....those CATS are gigantic :sign10:

Those air injection tubes on the headers and going under the oil pan are unsightly extras which apparently are there only for starting a cold engine. This includes all that air injection stuff that went forward to a point under the drivers side headlight :rolleyes:

Now the SW headers/exhaust are very light weight, independent, and very clean with very smooth curves and several smooth joints and BIG straight pipes from start to finish :thumbsup:

Also the SW headers and SW exhaust come with some very nice chrome pipes (four) that are exposed out the back :dancing

[tomtom72]

Cliff, I hear you about the "tangle of piping" that the AIR system represents. It is a mess & ugly at that! That is one of the reasons my SSW headers are still in the box in my living room. Where I live the smog police will not pass a car without it's OE smog equipment....no emission inspection, no registration, no plates, no play. Until I get those tubes installed I can't put mine on. :(

Thanks for answering my Q about the sockets. Yea I have a set in 3/8" & 1/4" of the u-joint kind. A friend of mine that is a dealer tech has a set that use the c/v joint principal....they are sweet, real smooth and you can do some extreme angles of attack without them binding.

:cheers:
Tom

[Dynomite]

Cliff, I hear you about the "tangle of piping" that the AIR system represents. It is a mess & ugly at that! That is one of the reasons my SSW headers are still in the box in my living room. Where I live the smog police will not pass a car without it's OE smog equipment....no emission inspection, no registration, no plates, no play. Until I get those tubes installed I can't put mine on. :(

Thanks for answering my Q about the sockets. Yea I have a set in 3/8" & 1/4" of the u-joint kind. A friend of mine that is a dealer tech has a set that use the c/v joint principal....they are sweet, real smooth and you can do some extreme angles of attack without them binding.

:cheers:
Tom

Tom....I have to admit to you.....in CA we suffer exactly like you in NY and those emission inspections in CA are expensive (been there and done that). I register all my vehicles in SD as I spend time both places and claim that as my residency :thumbsup:

In SD no one even looks at the car or truck for anything and licensing is dirt cheap :sign10:

If I had to add Air Induction to my SW headers it prolly would be less sightly to come into each header (with the smallest tubes that would pass emissions) from underneath between the engine and header (again....I think the Air Induction system is only for cold starts and the Air Induction valve is only open on a cold engine and since your engine is warm at emmisions checking....should be no emissions issue without that system....unless of course there is a rule on modifications and the emissions inspectors know a bit about what is or is not on stock Zs).

Having to modify those clean looking headers would be a BIG bummer for me :D

[tomtom72]

Tom....I have to admit to you.....in CA we suffer exactly like you in NY and those emission inspections in CA are expensive (been there and done that). I register all my vehicles in SD as I spend time both places and claim that as my residency :thumbsup:

In SD no one even looks at the car or truck for anything and licensing is dirt cheap :sign10:

If I had to add Air Induction to my SW headers it prolly would be less sightly to come into each header (with the smallest tubes that would pass emissions) from underneath between the engine and header (again....I think the Air Induction system is only for cold starts and the Air Induction valve is only open on a cold engine and since your engine is warm at emmisions checking....should be no emissions issue without that system....unless of course there is a rule on modifications and the emissions inspectors know a bit about what is or is not on stock Zs).

Having to modify those clean looking headers would be a BIG bummer for me :D

Cliff, I envy your residency loop hole!:mrgreen: <--- see how green with envy I am!
In the New York suburbs our emission's inspectors have FSM diagrams of what equipment is supposed to apply to the car being tested. If they don't find the stuff they will fail the car for equipment violations before they test the actual engine emissions. I have to have all the "junk" hooked up.

I live in an apartment, so no garage to work in. The car lives in a rented garage in another town, but it's a Co-Op so I can't work there either.
I may just bite the bullet & send them back to SSW or Marc to get the EGR tube cut off & sealed and the AIR tubes welded on. I don't know any one local to me that I trust to do all that, or would even know what the AIR tubing needs to look like to fit an LT5 and fit in the car's engine bay. God I hate the smog regulations....like one LT5 is going to cause the ice to melt!

sorry about the rant!:o

:cheers:
Tom

[Dynomite]

God I hate the smog regulations....like one LT5 is going to cause the ice to melt!

sorry about the rant!:o

:cheers:
Tom

I hear you there and NY or CA emissions regulations would cause a "rant" :thumbsup:

I took a 1/2 inch bolt, cut off about 3/4 inch, put one end on a grinder around and around tapering the bolt to the end where I left some threads (grind it before you cut it off). I tapped this into the SW EGR tube for perfect fit.....and just in case....can remove it later on :sign10:

[ScottZ95ZR1]

The RH extension piece supplied by SW was too long and did not fit. This creates a major problem as the piece also has a unique compound bend to each end. No one locally had the equipment to modify this piece so we elected to cut the 1 1/2 in too long piece out of the middle, then tig the piece back together. It worked perfectly, though I do not like having a cross cut in this extension piece.

I called SW and asked for some tech suport, and was assured I would hear back within the hour. Four hours later I called again and this time Jim answered. He was not aware of the problem but said he would look into the solution and get back to me. I'm waiting to hear back.

jvd in bg

I had the same problem with the RH lead pipe coming off the cat that Jim mentioned being too long. I called SW with hopes that they had a "new", shorter piece based upon Jim's calls (I've had my set-up since the group buy) but was told they've never heard of a fitment issue.

I've had that piece shortened in the middle locally, but in doing so seem to have lost the slight directional change/bend. We'll figure it out but I wanted to share my experience.
Has anyone else installed the ZR1FACTCAT configuration (with cats using factory connection points) and not had this problem?

[ScottZ95ZR1]

There is a vacuum line you need to remove the "T" on and just put a straight coupler on. It is on the driver side fender skirt above the shock tower.

After removing the AIR induction system, I corrected the vacuum line issue Jeff described above.

So, we're left with a connector in this same general location and two more up forward that were disconnected from the pump.

I've wrapped/taped these up and secured them.

Is there anything else related to the AIR system removal to be done that I've missed?

What a pile of sh*t!

[Dynomite]

After removing the AIR induction system, I corrected the vacuum line issue Jeff described above.

So, we're left with a connector in this same general location and two more up forward that were disconnected from the pump.

I've wrapped/taped these up and secured them.

Is there anything else related to the AIR system removal to be done that I've missed?

What a pile of sh*t!

:sign10: :cheers:

On that vacuum line.......I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" (in front of "T" about 3 inches) back and plugged the "Y" back in where "T" was :thumbsup:

32valvZ provided this photo of what you describe :mrgreen:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/bdad967e-e252-4bae-83ac-f0c71ecaeef5.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/bdad967e-e252-4bae-83ac-f0c71ecaeef5.jpg.html)

[ScottZ95ZR1]

So, there's nothing left to do but take out the trash?