Cooling System Q?

[White Bullet]

Ok, I have had my Z since April.:dancing I have replaced the radiator as I could not run the A/C. Here in the south it is a must in the summer. Now even when driving around the coolant temperature will cycle. Typically between 197 to 220. This is at any speed below 70 MPH. Above that the temperature remains constant at 200. There are two exceptions to this the first is should I shift to 5th gear the temperature will move to 200 and remain there and of course if I am in heavy stop and go traffic with the A/C on the coolant temperature will rise until I get very nervous and turn the A/C off (approaching 260 on the gauge:jawdrop:). Once the A/C is off the temperature will remain steady where it is unless I can get moving again for a few minutes then it will cool down. I have also replaced the serpentine belt. Also for you consideration is the chip is a DRM. I thought that maybe the fans were cycling which would cause this to happen. So I have pulled over to check the fans and found that they both were running. So why all the rambling? To get the the question which is - Is this normal for a Z or is something needing attention? By the way the service manual has been no help with this. Thanks for your wisdom in advance:worship:.

[Jerry#397]

David, get a Haibeck chip, a 180 or less thermostat and a Ron Davis Rad.

[FU]

How old is the thermostat. ? I'd start there and put a good ole stock GM thermostat. And have Marc do a chip for you.

[A26B]

I have a Ron Davis radiator, and a fine piece of equipment it is. However, it won't help in slow city driving. The core is thicker than stock, made for racing at high speed where there's lot's of air velocity to pass through the radiator. The thicker core will impede air flow when stopped or slow in city driving where the only air flow is due to the fans. It is definitely more effective than stock at highway speeds. Save the bucks & stay with the stock radiator until you have done the rest.

I agree on the stock thermostat. I would also modify it by drilling 3 or 4 1/8" holes in the flange to reduce the flow resistance through the radiator loop.

Also... if you haven't cleaned the AC condenser out thoroughly, do that too.

If your fans don't come on at 180, either get the chip modified to do it automatically or get a manual fan switch from one of the aftermarket catalogs.

On another thread in the tech section, Goldcylon installed Spahl fan motors in the stock housing. They run about 25% faster rpm than stock which should be a great improvement over stock in city driving. I plan to do that mod also.

[FU]

Goldcylon installed Spahl fan motors in the stock housing

I'd like to know more about this.

[A26B]

Goldcylon installed Spahl fan motors in the stock housing

I'd like to know more about this.

I've written Daryll to get more info on the Spal fan install. May be 2700 cfm, not 2700 rpm after re-reading the post. I'll let you know what he tells me about it.

[Pete]

Goldcylon installed Spahl fan motors in the stock housing

I'd like to know more about this.

Me Too.


Yeap,i agree about bigger radiator doesn't fix traffic issues.
I also think stock fans are not strong ehough to pull air thru bigger radiator.


Pete

[White Bullet]

Sounds like I can do something to help this situation. I do not know how old the thermostat is. I will replace the thermostat. When I replaced the radiator I had trouble getting the thermostat housing off and gave up. So I do have a replacement thermostat. I will try it again and clean the condenser. I plan on getting a Haibeck chip. Thanks.