Engine Removal Write-Up?

[FLT4PWR]

Is there an existing write-up somewhere as to the steps of properly removing the LT5? I did some searching on the Forum, but didn't really come up with anything. Any tips or suggestions would be welcome. Hopefully I can return the favor soon.

thanks again.:-D

[Jagdpanzer]

Get a set of ZR-1 LT5 Service Tapes
Engine removal is well covered

Contact Al Whittier
old.hot.rodder@verizon.net



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[tccrab]

Bill:

Howdy!!

There's a write up over on the front page:
[URL="https://www.zr1netregistry.com/Information/TechNet/EngineDrivetrain/Engine/tabid/137/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/211/categoryId/27/Engine-Removal.aspx[/URL]

And also a write up on rebuilding the engine without removing the block:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/lt5rebuild.htm

Here's a write up with pictures at Corvette Fever:
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16798/index.html (DEAD LINK)

If you've got a LOT spare coin to spend, a 415, 427, or 440 stroker conversion would be the next obvious choice.

You're closer to Aaron, but Marc Haibeck does them too:
http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/product/major%20engine%20upgrades.htm

While you have the tranny out it might be a good idea to send it to Bill Boudreau (The ZF Doc) and have it checked out and cryo treated.
http://www.zfdoc.com/index.htm

I highly recommend Bill's "C-Beam Plates":
http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

Made a world of difference on my Z.
I used to be very wary of mashing the go pedal unless I was the only car on the road.
When the tires would spin, the rear end would step right. It felt like miles, but in reality probably only a foot or so.
The beam plates minimized it bunches.
Although torque still affects the attitude of the rear of the car it's no where near what it used to be.

I'm told that a rear end gear change is the best bang for the buck, 4:10's are usually what people put in.
It makes 6th gear usable on the freeway.
http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/gears.htm
Again, this is something Aaron can do for you, but it's always nice to see your options.

Good to see you again, and again,

Welcome to the.....

Brotherhood of the Beast!!!

TomC
a.k.a."Crabs"

[Jeffvette]

It's simple

1) Remove trans
2) Remove exhaust manifolds
3) Remove plenum and inj housings
4) Undo all wiring connections to the motor
5) Undo oil cooler and coolant lines
6) Remove power steering bolts (let unit dangle)
7) Remove ac compressor bolts (let unit dangle)
8) Lift motor


Some obvious steps skipped. Good luck!

[GOLDCYLON]

Get a set of ZR-1 LT5 Service tapes
Engine removal is well covered
Contact Al Whittier
old.hot.rodder@verizon.net

Yes it does cover the removal very well.

[LGAFF]

I sell the CPT video and manuals for $45 shipped on CD......video shows removal process

leegaffigan@yahoo.com is paypal

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13558

[rkreigh]

solo engine out!!! a few small issues. slipped and broke off oil sender (really brittle), the engine tends to hang up just a bit on a stud from the firewall. it caught a bit and cracked the AC housing.


I missed the wire going to the cam position sensor


came out just fine with headers on and I pulled the tranny with the shifter stick in place (harder that way I think)


big job, now onto the porting and more HP for the LSV!!

[Ccmano]

an update to a very old thread. I cruised down to harbor freight and got the tilt a lift for 39 and found a small scissor transmission jack that will be very handy for 99, and a set of metric crows feet.


I've finished up pulling the plenum, injector housings, front accessories, and the cooling stack. radiator was about 40% clogged with leaves and crud I was able to use an air hose and "dropping" the radiator flat to bang out the embedded stuff. came out nice and clean. This car is so filthy, it's unreal, but I guess 104k miles will do that.

With that mileage and the higher hp your planning, if that’s the original radiator, do yourself a favor and replace it. Two factors are at work here. The original radiators have such fine closely spaced fins that you can never get all the fine sand out of it. It will never again cool as new. Secondly with higher hp comes more heat. These OEM radiators were marginal at best when new with stock hp. If your up grading the hp it’s best to upgrade the cooling system with a higher capacity radiator too.

Have fun with your project.
H

[rkreigh]

With that mileage and the higher hp your planning, if that’s the original radiator, do yourself a favor and replace it. Two factors are at work here. The original radiators have such fine closely spaced fins that you can never get all the fine sand out of it. It will never again cool as new. Secondly with higher hp comes more heat. These OEM radiators were marginal at best when new with stock hp. If your up grading the hp it’s best to upgrade the cooling system with a higher capacity radiator too.

Have fun with your project.
H




the secondary ports can go from 34 to beyond 36 and there is some evening up and port matching


staying with the same cams and bottom end. the Haibeck MLS gaskets will raise compression a bit.



Doc, you asked if they are thinner? I'm not so sure, I think compressed they are, but the CR increase is likely more from surfacing the head



the MLS is more forgiving and should durn sure seal better than the blown hg on there now.

[Tony Davila]

Make sure you build an engine support at the rear of the engine once you pull off the trans. The engine will want to hang down in the rear due to the forward engine mounts.

[phrogs]

Make sure you build an engine support at the rear of the engine once you pull off the trans. The engine will want to hang down in the rear due to the forward engine mounts.

A block of wood works great.

[rkreigh]

Make sure you build an engine support at the rear of the engine once you pull off the trans. The engine will want to hang down in the rear due to the forward engine mounts.


yes and there is a small stud that is on the ac cover frame that "snags" the engine on the way up. I cracked up the cover quite badly as the engine swung a bit.


a board allows the engine to ride up smoothly without damage.


lessons learned are seldom forgotten

[Paul Workman]

One more tid-bit: The HOOD need not be removed to pull the engine either. That can save some time and :censored: later.;)