What do i need to hit 11.9-12.2 range

[LGAFF]

Here's the current setup:

-Intake/Plenum/port matched to 36mm
-Watson Headers
-No CATs
-X-Pipe
-4:09 gear
-DRM Chip
-Borla mufflers
-63MM TB
-Coolant Bypass

**Not a big fan of drag radials

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[-=Jeff=-]

**Not a big fan of drag radials



Why, they WILL Help..

Also what is your current 60'?? (My guess is 2.1-2.2) getting that down will help too..

I need to look at my old time slips.. btu I know my most recent ones from the 89 I was cutting 1.79 60ft. Granted the L98 (even with a Miniram) is different the the LT5, but I know my first 60ft with the Zf6 in the 89 are probably 2.1 or 2.2

[bradslt5]

MY CAR WITH ALMOST THE SAME EXACT SETUP RUNS BETWEEN 11.78-12.20@117.80-119.10. HERES WHATS DONE TO MINE PORTED BY COREY HENDERSON . HE CUT THE WALL OUT OF THE PLENUM ON THE INJECTORS 1 IN IN HE BLENDED THE HOUSINGINGS INTO THE 2 PORTS . ITS BIGGER PORTING THAN MOST DO BUT IT SEEMS TO WORK. ONE THING I SAW WHILE AT COREYS WAS THE AMOUNT OF HP A GOOD DYNO TUNE CAN NET . THE CAR AFTER PORTING BUT BEFORE TUNNING WAS 385.THEN HE STARTED TUNNING AND ENDED @409.9 RWHP AND 373.66 TQ. I WOULD TRY TO FIND SOMEONE WHO COULD TUNE YOUR CAR ON A DYNO. THEN GET YOURSELF A SET OF MT ET STREETS RUN THEM @16-18 LBS OF AIR . LEAVE THE LINE AT 2000-2500 SHIFT @6900 AND YOU SHOULD GET TO WHERE YOU WANT TO GO . YOU COULD CALL COREY 210 867 6286 ASK HIM HOW MUCH HE WOULD CHARGE TO DOWNLOAD MY TUNE IN YOUR PROM. HOPE THIS HELP .PS MY CAR ALSO HAS A FIDANZA FLYWHEEL

[HADI-ZR1]

LGAFF,
M y advice to you, just recalibrate the DRM chip, i saw it dosent feed enough fuel as i Expected .:neutral: . Thats why i am gona send my DRM to Marc someday to reporogram fuel curve!

[LGAFF]

Thanks Hadi, good feedback.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[XfireZ51]

LGAFF,
M y advice to you, just recalibrate the DRM chip, i saw it dosent feed enough fuel as i Expected .:neutral: . Thats why i am gona send my DRM to Marc someday to reporogram fuel curve!

What do you suppose a good AFR for the LT-5 is at WOT?

[-=Jeff=-]

What do you suppose a good AFR for the LT-5 is at WOT?

13.1???

[LGAFF]

**Not a big fan of drag radials


I like to run it as it would be on the street, nothing better than to open up the Road and Track summary and see all of the $100-200K cars your car can outrun.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[bradslt5]

MY CAR WITH COREYS PROM GIVES AN AFR OF 12.75-8 AT FULL THROTTLE

[HADI-ZR1]

most performance cars as lt-5 , love 12.5 . but due to carbon dioxide emissions control ,they keep it up! :dontknow:
in some turbo and S/c engines, tuner go as law 12 . jmho

[flyin ryan]

best power will happen between 12.8:1 & 13.1:1 on a naturally asperated well sorted out gasoline engine. i dynoed a 320 cube & 315 cube small block's, that i just finished, last week. used the same 750 carb on both. jetting, air bleeds & timing were actually quite a bit different for each engine. at the end of each days dyno i was right on those A/F numbers, i wasn't surprised at all, 98% of the time that's what i see is best. FYI both engines made 2.2 HP/cube. not the best but for what i was given to deal with (older parts ) pretty good.

[HADI-ZR1]

BTW. the fact that warmed-up fuel injected engines will run with mixtures as rich as 6.0:1 .
So guess when you driving your ZR in very cold weather and you are in WOT offen and you are lean in range 13.0 ! :rolleyes:

[Aurora40]

From watching the cars at BG that were running street tires, really what you'll need is a lot more horsepower. If you don't want to cut down your short game with DR's, then you'll have to cut down the longer game with hp.

I believe Ron K's times were mostly high 11's, 12 flat from a 390 with 2.0+ 60' times. There was one or two guys with 350's that were running 12 flat or high 11's because they had DR's on and were launching much harder.

So you can either go the 12.0 @ 115mph route with DR's, skinnies, other drag prep, or you can go the 12.0 @ 125mph route with a crapload of horsepower and not enough traction.

I know what you are saying about running like it runs on the street. I didn't even pull my spare tire out, though mostly out of laziness. ;) But I was running mid 12's all day, with trap speeds that a lot of cars get in the 11's. If you want a low ET, though, the cheapest and easiest way would be to prep the car for the dragstrip.

[rkreigh]

street tires make hooking the ZR-1 ver diecy at best

even with drag radials, if the car isn't setup for the digs, 60 fts are in the 1.8 range

bolt on some slicks! or a drag pack. watch the 60 ft and the ET tumble

127 MPH shows the power needed for 10s, but without traction it just isn't going to happen. car has run 11.46 with a better driver, but that was with a high 1.7 60 ft, drag radials, and a 126 mph

I'm going to run the hoosiers soon, and I expect to be back in the mid 11s or better if I can get the clutch to hold.

still running a stock clutch and it's really not up to the torq the little 390 can deliver.

I've seen MANY cars with mods like yours dip into the 11s with decent traction and a good driver. that makes all the difference in the world as the ZR-1 isn't an EZ car to drag race due to the still suspension.

my coil overs don't help there either:mrgreen:

[bradslt5]

drag pack ????? can you help shed some light on this .i too am searching for ways to imptove the launch if our cars . the hoosiers really help a bunch ,having just got a set. they would work better on 12 in rims though .i have loosened the front swau bar and put 45lbs of air in thew front tires .i am wondering if other rear shocks would help . i have tried all 3 settings on fx3 and it doesnt seem to make a diff . any ideas ????

[HADI-ZR1]

Dont forget, Move the battery to the rear storage!
i have this kit already...:thumbsup:

[bradslt5]

hadi where did you get the kit?

[HADI-ZR1]

hadi where did you get the kit?
Search for Battery relocate kit in : SUMMIT RACING.com , i got it from there.
and my advice use Odessy battery PC925. small and light .

Locobob used it. but USPS refused to ship the battery by air!:censored:

[rkreigh]

the drag pack is ccw race rims 16" in back and 17" skinnies in front.

they hook like crazy! M&H, ET Streets, and Hoosiers all make a pretty good drag radial but slicks are even better.

thanks for the tip on the battery, where are they available Hadi??

[bradslt5]

summit. oll cruize over there and see if i can snag some part numbers

[bradslt5]

:jawdrop: OK HADI HELP AN OLD FELLA OUT WHICH KIT DID YOU GET . THERE GOT TO BE 50 DIFFERENT ONE :dontknow: I WANT TO GET THAT BATTERY TOO . HELP PLEASE :icon_scra THANX

[HADI-ZR1]

Brad . stop playing with me! http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/hadi-zr1/1114.gif

Summit part # TAY-48000 . 2-Gauge Cables. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/hadi-zr1/1122.gif
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/tay-48000_w.jpg

[bradslt5]

ah hadi . if ya cant have fun with your buddies thewn it aint no fun at all. tahnx pards

[ZR WON]

With a little practice in your launch technique with street radials, you should be able to get to the high end of your performance window given the mods. My car, with much less aggressive top end porting than yours(done 10 years ago, @380rwhp)) clicks off consistent 12.3-.4s@117 with a 2.1 60ft(on old Michelin Pilot Sports). It's quite possible, with practice, to get a 1.9 with fresh, new street radial rubber in a ZR-1. And that would get your right into that 12.1-.2 range. FWIW, if you put drag radials on it, you would probably eclipse the 11.9 with relative ease.

Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not quite stock

[Pete]

Lee if you wanna hit 11's with a street radial tire you will need a clutch almost everytime.

I have hit 11.50's 11.60's @ 123mph on GSC's when i was making 438rwhp 1.80's 60ft after a few of those i had to replace the clutch.

Since i didn't want the tires to slip i would slip the clutch to get a decent 60ft

Moral of the story you can't have your cake and eat too.

Also remember 117 mph with these horsepower #'s you are making you will need to get a 1.60's 60ft which is very hard to do with street radials.
I have tried and went thru alot of clutchs trying.:(

Pete

[Polo-1]

drag pack ????? can you help shed some light on this .i too am searching for ways to imptove the launch if our cars . the hoosiers really help a bunch ,having just got a set. they would work better on 12 in rims though .i have loosened the front swau bar and put 45lbs of air in thew front tires .i am wondering if other rear shocks would help . i have tried all 3 settings on fx3 and it doesnt seem to make a diff . any ideas ????

I think you might have a winner in your LT5 powered Mustang. It should be fast enough in the 1/4.

[LGAFF]

Do I need to trade in for one of these?

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/arizonamuscle/2001%20CORVETTE%20Z06%20RED/IMG_2908.jpg (http://photobucket.com/)

[Pete]

Do I need to trade in for one of these?

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/arizonamuscle/2001%20CORVETTE%20Z06%20RED/IMG_2908.jpg (http://photobucket.com/)

With one of these you will have the dreaded common clutch patel sticking to the floor.

You can't get a big fat chicken that don't weigh alot.:)

If your racing your paying one way or another,no matter what you buy.

I would love to find a cheap C5 ZO6 and put a crate LS7 in it,of course port the heads a bit with a cam change.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Pete, How does spring rate come into play?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Pete]

Pete, How does spring rate come into play?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

You lost me
Spring Rate??? .

Pete

[LGAFF]

Does a heavier rear leaf spring rate(lbs of pressure) translate into better 60 FT?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

http://www.ecklers.com/images/vette/37164.jpg
1984-96 (C4) Dual Mount Rear Composite Monospring Kit
Corvette Monospring Kit, Rear, Dual Mount, Composite, 1984-1996
Dual Mount Monospring can be set for a soft ride or high performance handling by simply changing the mounting block adjustment points. You can also adjust the ride height up or down 1" using the adjustable spring bolts. This kit will work with any front spring setup and rate (from stock to 860 lbs./in.) and is ideally matched to front monospring kits. Installation is all Bolt-on with the exception of 4 holes which must be drilled into differential crossmember for bolting on the kit's two mounting brackets for 63-79 Corvettes. The kit includes a specially made rear monospring, adjustable long spring bolts with polyurethane cushions, mounting brackets, blocks and plates and all necessary hardware and installation instructions.

[-=Jeff=-]

I would think softer is better.. more allowance for weight transfer to the rear wheels..

[flyin ryan]

Does a heavier rear leaf spring rate(lbs of pressure) translate into better 60 FT?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234it did for me on my Stingray. 420lbs/inch from vette brakes. people want to treat our cars like regular drag cars (nova/camaro). our cars have pro-squat built into them, not anti-squat. as our chassis go down in the rear our half-shafts & rear wheels go up, like a big sponge. i even went so far as to put urethane bushings on the shock shaft's to have them bottom out earlier & basically force the rear tire to plant into the ground. i know that was a C-3 but same basic principle. with a small block naturally asperated, single four barrel on pump gas, no trans-brake & non-tubbed i ended up with a best 60' of 1.32 with that combination.

[Hammer]

I would think softer is better.. more allowance for weight transfer to the rear wheels..

Through the last two years of racing my car, I have found that the performance setting gives me better times. My last run before replacing the clutch and flywheel had a 1.92 60' time with that setting. I know about weight transfer but my car doesn't like it. so what ryan is saying makes sense out why the performance setting works better.

[Paul Workman]

MY CAR WITH COREYS PROM GIVES AN AFR OF 12.75-8 AT FULL THROTTLE

For what it is worth, I've run across that same AFR in several places (12.8 ±.1).

P.

[-=Jeff=-]

Through the last two years of racing my car, I have found that the performance setting gives me better times. My last run before replacing the clutch and flywheel had a 1.92 60' time with that setting. I know about weight transfer but my car doesn't like it. so what ryan is saying makes sense out why the performance setting works better.

Yeah after reading ryan's post it makes sense, especially with the IRS in the back..

[cuisinartvette]

If it squats too much the angle of the tire changes, there goes your contact patch (to a point).

[cward]

My best results were with the front shocks set to full soft and rears at full hard. On my car the shocks were set by hand, individually. Fronts are a piece of cake. Rears not so easy. They stayed at full hard most of the time. Oh, best 60' was 1.59 with ET Streets. On engine only, using Hoosier Quick Time Pro's (8" width) my 60's were usually about1.7 - 1.8. ET's on engine were about 11.9 - 12.3 depending on a lot of factors. On spray, 11.08 @ 129 was best. My rwhp was around 390 or so on engine at operating temps. Best ET on spray was set at San Antonio drag strip when several things were not right with the car. I could only get 7K rpm, syncros in 3nd gear were shot (I wonder why) and could only get about 600 lbs of pressure on the nitrous. Still ran pretty good though. One other thing: #364 never broke a half-shaft, spindle or rear-end even with bonzai 5K launches with slicks. I don't have the slightest idea how many drag races I participated in, but am sure it was well over 500 and probably over 1000. I like to race. :-) Heck, I probably raced Bob Hall over 30 times. He won about 26 or 27 and then I started spraying. One of my bigger thrills was Bob in my rear view mirror after so many losses. It's always sweeter to beat one of my best friends. That was almost as much fun as passing that RUF Porche at about 175 mph.

Curtis

[HADI-ZR1]

Curtis,
if you want your ZR as true drag race car to be, you dont need soft spring in front!
simply drag race car has removed front Shocks and NO springs at all! :mrgreen:

[cward]

Curtis,
if you want your ZR as true drag race car to be, you dont need soft spring in front!
simply drag race car has removed front Shocks and NO springs at all! :mrgreen:

Drag racing was just for fun. The car was setup for ORR. I only drag raced for kicks. I just did easy stuff to run drag racing. My true thrill came from high speed racing around corners. That will really get your blood to flowing. Hmmmm. Just reread that last sentence. Maybe I should reword that. :-)

Curtis

[XfireZ51]

For what it is worth, I've run across that same AFR in several places (12.8 ±.1).

P.

When I put my car on dyno, initial AFR was 13.3 at top end of WOT. Modified cal and got it down to a consistent 12.8 +/- .1 and made no difference in hp or torque. But at 12.8 there's a bit more cushion for error.
Same goes for timing. Right now its at 28d total.

[HADI-ZR1]

Curtis,
let me tell this story before year ago happed to me in CZECH REP.

one day I met Porscha Guy ,he had Porsch 2002 Twin turbo. we chat little bit then i told him Lets race, he said ya sure why not, he gave me his mobil number and said call me after week so we race, so i did, and when i met him near petrol station,
I told him: are we going to race in that road?( the road is about 1 mile straight near the town,
so he said : no not here ,its behind that Hill and we start from there and we climb that Hill :jawdrop:
I told him : i thought you wana race 1/2 or 1 mile straight !
He said: No No , we Race to hill with many corners there....
-------------
Maybe you should race him someday, if you like corners :mrgreen: (just joking).

I never thought our Zr1 and Porscha are 4x4 pickup or rally cars!!http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/hadi-zr1/rofl-1.gif