Jackstand location....................

[Z51JEFF]

Im going to be doing some work on my car in a few weeks and would like a good spot to place the jackstands.Im going to be replacing the front spring so I would like to put the stands as close to the front bumper as possible.The jackstands I have dont have a really good contact point,the pad that comes in contact with the car so I might buy another set,one with a flatter contact spot.Also,who has a nice jackstand.The set I have I got at Seare years ago.Theyve got the generic claw jobber at the top of the post,Im not comfortable using these on my car so Id like to find something better.Thanks all.

[A26B]

QUESTION: What is the best way to jack up a ZR-1?

ANS: Do not jack a C4 at the center of its side frames. If you do, the biggest risk is cracking the front glass.

There are only two places to properly lift a C4 with a floor jack.

At the front, you lift on the cross member just ahead of the engine. It is best to use a block of wood (4x6x1.5 works best) on the jack pad. Many C4s will have to have their front wheels driven up on blocks (12x2x2 works good) to get the jack under the car. Once you're up on the blocks, turn the wheels to full lock and come in with the floor jack behind whichever tire is turned in. Only floor jacks with long, low frames typical of 2-ton jacks will be able to do this. It works very well if you have the right floor jack and a block of wood.

You also can come in from the front with the floor jack but then the blocks you drive the front up on must be much higher.

At the rear, you need the "Jack-a-Vette" tool. It bolts to the jack pad and its vertical leg goes between the exhaust pipes and lifts on the rear axle housing. This method is not documented in the factory service manual but had been used in the service trade for many years and, according to the makers of Jack-a-Vette, was used at Bowling Green during the C4 era. On cars that are lower than stock, the rear may have to be driven up on blocks to allow enough room to get the floor jack and Jack-a-Vette underneath.

To support a C4 on jack stands, place the stands on either side at the front right where the frame turns inward behind the front wheels. At the rear support the areas of the frame just ahead of the rear wheels. In all cases, I use small blocks on the jack stand pads. Take extreme care to avoid crushing fuel or brake lines.

Thanks to Hib Halverson for this info.
(from ZR1Net Registry)

[flyin ryan]

next question...where do you find those Jack-a-vette tools? i've looked in the past without much luck but i could see it being handy at times.

[DaveK]

next question...where do you find those Jack-a-vette tools? i've looked in the past without much luck but i could see it being handy at times.

This place lists them, not sure if the gadget man is still 'active' though.

http://www.corvettegadgetman.com/

Look down the page for the C4 EZ Jack Adapter.

[Z51JEFF]

Thanks for he info guys.I met Hib Halverson at a Corvette Dream And Drive function years ago,really nice guy.What Im going to do is drive the car up on ramps so I dont have to jack it so high and place the jackstands.Id like to find a set of stands that have a rubber pad that comes in contact with the car.Griots Garage has some off the wall tools,I might check these guys out.

[Paul Workman]

Like you, I'm not overly pleased with my jacking options and am all ears when this topic comes up. However, every time this topic comes up, I learn something else. However, "Jack A Vette" and such gimmics are not something I trip over at my local auto parts stores. I feel your pain. Let us know if you find those padded jack stands you mentioned.

That said, I don't know that I agree that the standard jack stand "claws" are a problem. That "universal(?)" forked end with it's notch in the center captures that frame seam on our C4s very effectively, methinks. Lifting the front from the cross member (after driving the car up on some blocks to allow floor jack the access) allows one to place the standard jack stands anywhere along the frame seam - just behind the front wheels, along that section that angles toward the engine is "perfect".

However, if one is going to lift the entire car, AND being limited to standard jack stands, I found that using two floor jacks in tandem (suggested in an earlier post) works VERY well!! With two floor jacks I find I can get each side of the car up to working height with just one lift from each side. (Just take care to keep from getting one jack stand too high (or low), or stability will suffer (e.g. the four legged table or chair with one leg too long).

As a safety/peace of mind tip, I place the jack stands and load them, but I keep the floor jacks in place w/some contact pressure (to keep them from moving out of place)...for peace of mind - should I get rambunctious while working under there.

I intend to get a lift of some sort ASAP. Jacking is a pain at best.

P.

[32valvZ]

[quote=Paul I intend to get a lift of some sort ASAP. Jacking is a pain at best.

P.[/quote]

www.kwiklift.com (http://www.kwiklift.com) :cheers:

[Paul Workman]

www.kwiklift.com (http://www.kwiklift.com) :cheers:

Yessssir!! I've seen your posts, and my tongue hangs out! Believe it or not, I turned down a chance to get a two-post hydrolic lift (like Pete's) for just at $1k installed. But, b/c I didn't have the ceiling height, I passed it up - only to realize later my "uncle Max" had room to "store" it at his bedliner bizness! (Oh! The pain some decisions have when they come back to haunt!!!:redface:)

If nothing else, I WILL buy or build a lift like yours. In many ways I think your Kwiklift is much better than the full-blown 2 or 4 post lift; especially for us hobbiests with limited ceiling height in the garage.

I envy you...I consider CO my "home", and I truly miss the twisties up in the mountains. But, the air density here at 600' AMSL will console me until I can drive in CO again.:mrgreen:

P