So how hard is putting in a set of Samcos?

[32valvZ]

Getting ready to buy a set of coolant hoses & wonder how much of the car I will need to disassemble to get to the lower hoses. :) I can get the spring clamp pliers from Sears/Craftsman.....will these work? Any tricks to refilling the system?
TIA

[Hammer]

Just a few tips.

I used NAPA brand antifreeze, with the silicates in it. It needs to meet 1825-M or M-1825 spec. Whatever is in the book is what spec you need to have on the can.

Flush with distilled water only and then pour in the antifreeze straight for half the capacity, then top off with the distilled water. DOn't remember how many gallons of distilled water I got. Something like 5 or 6.

Remove the radiator shroud by pulling the driver side up first and then just screw around with it until you get it out. Reverse the three clips for the bolts on each side at the front before you put it back on.

Use a little dielectric grease on the hoses and they slip right on. Don't use a lot, just a bit.

If you are replacing the thermostat, use the bracket that attaches the housing to the frame on one side and a putty knife on the other to hold the thermostat in place while fastening the cover down. Two people makes this easy.

That's it. Everything else will just be standard mechanic stuff.

Oh yeah, replace your serpentine belt while you are there too.

Do a search, there should be a lot of info here.

[cuisinartvette]

Tstat housing, clamp on water pump may be a PITA to get off. Its going to take some patience..Getting the tool for the clamps was a good move on your end which will help. Unless they are positioned just "wrong" that will speed things up.

[Aurora40]

Make sure the craftsman tool you get is the remote one, the one on the long cable. Not the one that is pretty much like a set of normal pliers, just with a different end on it. Some of them clamps can be in odd positions, and the remote tool helps a lot with that.

I second the small dab of silicone grease on the new hoses. Otherwise you'll never get them to slip on. They will appear too small at first, but they'll get on with some grease.

The only things I believe I disassembled were the accordian duct, the serpentine belt, and the belt tensioner. You could also remove the TB extension if you wanted, though I don't recall it being in the way too much.

[32valvZ]

Thanks guys....I have the whole top end off the car still waiting on a good secondary actuator to arrive..:censored: , so the air horn is off already & I figured why not? Just get it done & over with now. I already have a new serp belt.. I'll pick up a T-stat today & some distilled water.

Aurora, not familiar with the tool you describe. They only have the plier like set....I'll check NAPA & CarQuest...

[Aurora40]

They look like this:

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00971007000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

They might also have them from SK if they carry that locally, though the SK ones are more expensive (though probably better quality).

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Getting ready to buy a set of coolant hoses & wonder how much of the car I will need to disassemble to get to the lower hoses. :) I can get the spring clamp pliers from Sears/Craftsman.....will these work? Any tricks to refilling the system?
TIAIt's a knuckle beater for sure....lol! The only hose that gave me a fight was the little straight hose on the bottom for the thermostat housing.


Good luck with yours and what color did you get?

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Here's a few pics before i changed mine over to the Samcos. This little cross over pipe is also real fun unless you plan on removing the radiator.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e396/ry368/Nova-Zr1shots067.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e396/ry368/Nova-Zr1shots068.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e396/ry368/Nova-Zr1shots069.jpg
I had to trim the Samco piece down a little bit!

[Jeffvette]

Ry, you would have to trim down the stock piece as well since you have a aftermarket radiator.

The bottom crossover is easily accessible from underneath the car. The clamp is supposed to be positioned that it can be reached from that point.

There is no need to remove the rad.

[32valvZ]

It's a knuckle beater for sure....lol! The only hose that gave me a fight was the little straight hose on the bottom for the thermostat housing.


Good luck with yours and what color did you get?


Hey Ry....ths for the pics. I got her all torn apart & cleaned up today. I got red ones. Yea, it kinda sucked, but not a huge deal. I wound up pulling the radiator out & glad I did....look at the pics. The bottom is really out of shape & looks like one of the coolant passages (second up from the bottom) is ballooned up & distorted. The whole area really needed cleaning anyway.

engine side
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/Johnny-Mo/ZR-1Radiatorpic1.jpg
condenser side
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/Johnny-Mo/ZR-1Radiatorpic2.jpg

[Jeffvette]

Damn, dude, you are running into all sorts of problems while you are waiting on your actuator.

[32valvZ]

Damn, dude, you are running into all sorts of problems while you are waiting on your actuator.

Yea, this is the most expensive secondary actuator in the history of the world!!:censored:

Well.....its a good time to get it all done. I have a radiator coming tomorrow at my local radiator shop for about $160. As far as the master cylinder thing, I'll wait on that until I see what develops after I start driving the car again in spring. Its pretty easy to do that job. I actually like tinkering and fixing things. On top of repairing what need repaired, I can clean everything up & do some touch up paint here and there....this is afterall my hobby....beit an expensive one! Ahh, could be worse, I could be addicted to crack....:sign10:

[Jeffvette]

I would not wait on the brake master. The brake fluid eats the rubber lining of the diaphram in the booster.

[32valvZ]

I would not wait on the brake master. The brake fluid eats the rubber lining of the diaphram in the booster.


Damn You!!.........I'm sure youre right...I'll call you.:cry: