backup lights

[Hub]

Sorry, that's me again...

My last electrical problem is the backup lights which are not working anymore...

I saw the help on the website but need your comments about the way to proceed (switch on the gear box)... is it so hard to fix?

Thanks again for your help and drawings or pics you could have on this.


Hub

[8388]

You have to move the slave cylinder out of the way in order to get to it, only two nuts hold it in place. I had to cut up a 12 point socket and weld it unto a wrench, because you have to reach inward towards the tranny in order to get to the switch. I should start marketing this tool, since it makes the job a breeze, and there's literally thousands of these switches out there, that are about to fail.

[Wayne]

You have to move the slave cylinder out of the way in order to get to it, only two nuts hold it in place. I had to cut up a 12 point socket and weld it unto a wrench, because you have to reach inward towards the tranny in order to get to the switch. I should start marketing this tool, since it makes the job a breeze, and there's literally thousands of these switches out there, that are about to fail.

Please explain just how you made the tool so the rest of us can benefit from it. Unless you really are going to market it

[Tom]

The back-up light switch can be changed using common tools bought at sears. Buy a 12 point deep socket, cut it off so it is just long enough to reach the bottom of the hex on the switch. Buy a 3 piece socket cap set from sears (these are adapters that plug into the socket that let you turn the socket with a wrench). Put the socket cap into the socket, put the socket on the switch after removing the electrical connector from the switch, and break the switch loose with a wrench. Remove the socket from the switch once the switch is loose enough that you can turn it by hand. There is not sufficient room to leave the socket on the switch and screw the switch all the way out. Before removing the switch you will need to take the slave cylinder loose from the bell housing and move it to the side to give you more room to work. There is also a small clamp on the line leading to the slave cylinder to remove to allow the slave cylinder to move easier. The piston in the slave cylinder is spring loaded and will extend when you remove the slave and you will have to re-compress the spring when you re-install the slave.

[Wayne]

Thanks alot Tom

[8388]

....

[Wayne]

Tom:

What size is that socket?
Guess I could look and not be so lazy :)

Tks Wayne

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Do some search on posts. I can't find his email but there is a person that will loan a custom made tool that he loaned to me for free. He does it to help out other owners. If I can find it I'll post the info. He did not want anything for the loan of tool but I sent him some goodies from Hawaii to show my appreciation. It sure did make it easier to remove the back up switch for replacement.

Craig
1990 #1727

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Here is the great ZR-1 guy with the tool to loan.

Al Kinder (USAZR1@aol.com)

[Tom]

22 mm, I bought the new switch, measured it and then went and bought the socket when I had to replace my backup light switch.

[WB9MCW]

sounds like a lot of work but at least u guys make it do-able with all the nice advice up front :!: :!: :!: gonna have to fix my oil leaky header stud someday too!! again a lot of work for such a small problem :!: :!: :( :( :(

[Rex Ruby]

I chopped off a 7/8 wrench for my "special" reverse light switch removal tool :handshak:

[Don in VT]

This all sounds great. Now where do I get the switch ? It would be real helpful to have a pix of the switch and if possible, its location on the rranny,

[pantera1683]

Hey guys,

If you run into this problem, don't run out and buy a new switch until you try cleaning the contact ball on the old one with WD-40. From what I read, the switches hardly ever really go bad, the area of contact just gets corroded. Luckily, that was the case with mine.

Also, removing the switch isn't so bad if you use an offset box end 22mm wrench. I bought one as part of a set from Harbor Freight and it worked like a charm. I didn't have to remove the exhaust or the clutch slave cylinder. A little patience and 30 minutes later I was done.

Hope this helps!

[Fully Vetted]

I need to replace my BU light switch and the only one I can find is this one from Eckler's. Not sure if this switch is ZR-1 specific. Eckler's does not specify whether this will work on the ZR-1 or not.

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-back-up-light-switch-for-cars-with-manual-transmission-1989-1996.html

Any help would be appreciated.

[Kevin]

the zf6 in the zr-1 is the same as all the other zf6's

[Fully Vetted]

Thanks, Kevin. Are there any updates on the how-to portion? This thread is a couple of years old.

[carmine]

Just Checked Mine Not Working Again The BrotherHood Comes To Rescue Carmine #357 Black Gray Stock

[scottfab]

the zf6 in the zr-1 is the same as all the other zf6's

I think you must mean the backup switch is the same on other zf6s.
The input shaft is different on the ZR-1 version of the zf6.

[scottfab]

This all sounds great. Now where do I get the switch ? It would be real helpful to have a pix of the switch and if possible, its location on the rranny,

Here ya go Don.
http://zr1.net/forum/album.php?albumid=199&pictureid=1456
http://zr1.net/forum/album.php?albumid=199&pictureid=1455
http://zr1.net/forum/album.php?albumid=199&pictureid=1456
http://zr1.net/forum/album.php?albumid=199&pictureid=1455

[Fully Vetted]

Pretty sure Don doesn't need the pics anymore. That was 2 years ago.

But, I did. So, thanks!

[scottfab]

Pretty sure Don doesn't need the pics anymore. That was 2 years ago.

But, I did. So, thanks!

That's pretty funny. I need to be more progressive with my posts :-D