ScottZ95ZR1
10-24-2024, 09:07 PM
Both front brakes locked up on my '92 and upon opening the right front caliper bleeder, both wheels freed up..... so I think this indicates I have a hydraulic issue verses mechanical problem within the brake calipers.
Brake hoses were upgraded to steel-braided lines back in '95 so these are not the old rubber hoses. And it seems very unlikely that both sides would fail at the same time. I think failed hoses are not my issue but I have ordered new stainless hoses from DRM.
I flushed brake fluid by pulling 2 quarts of fresh DOT-4 through system using a compressed air vacuum tool. After bleeding the calipers (RR, LR, RF, then LF) using same tool, I had good firm brake pedal that would hold for a couple minutes without softening. I put wheels back on car for short, neighborhood test drive.
Brake pedal remained firm (felt normal - GOOD!) and I felt ABS do self-test as car accelerated. Brakes felt and seemed to function perfectly at first.... but after applying brakes several times within short distance of about 100 yards, I felt brakes start dragging again so parked her. Both sides drag then lock up equally; the car never pulled to either side and brake light on DIC is not illuminated. At this point the pedal is hard (no longer just firm).
With key off I have hard pedal and when engine is started, I feel brake pedal soften a bit as expected. I think this indicates my Brake Booster is still good, so I next moved to the Brake Booster Check Valve. Unfortunately, the check valve appears to be good; I am only able to blow through intake end with no flow from booster side. I never thought I would be so bummed out by a suspected part testing good. 😊
I have sourced a new Master Cylinder but think I'd experience soft/spongy pedal if that was my problem.
Not sure where I focus next and welcome feedback/advice from the many here smarter than me......most everyone here qualifies!
Thanks in advance for your help.
Brake hoses were upgraded to steel-braided lines back in '95 so these are not the old rubber hoses. And it seems very unlikely that both sides would fail at the same time. I think failed hoses are not my issue but I have ordered new stainless hoses from DRM.
I flushed brake fluid by pulling 2 quarts of fresh DOT-4 through system using a compressed air vacuum tool. After bleeding the calipers (RR, LR, RF, then LF) using same tool, I had good firm brake pedal that would hold for a couple minutes without softening. I put wheels back on car for short, neighborhood test drive.
Brake pedal remained firm (felt normal - GOOD!) and I felt ABS do self-test as car accelerated. Brakes felt and seemed to function perfectly at first.... but after applying brakes several times within short distance of about 100 yards, I felt brakes start dragging again so parked her. Both sides drag then lock up equally; the car never pulled to either side and brake light on DIC is not illuminated. At this point the pedal is hard (no longer just firm).
With key off I have hard pedal and when engine is started, I feel brake pedal soften a bit as expected. I think this indicates my Brake Booster is still good, so I next moved to the Brake Booster Check Valve. Unfortunately, the check valve appears to be good; I am only able to blow through intake end with no flow from booster side. I never thought I would be so bummed out by a suspected part testing good. 😊
I have sourced a new Master Cylinder but think I'd experience soft/spongy pedal if that was my problem.
Not sure where I focus next and welcome feedback/advice from the many here smarter than me......most everyone here qualifies!
Thanks in advance for your help.