Driveshaft removal for speedo gear swap. C-Beam out or not?

[scorp508]

My 94 still has the stock speedometer/vss gear in the transmission even though the D44 has 4.10 gears installed. I have the 13/43 gear from Haibeck to install but wanted to ask a quick question.


His instructions are here: http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/Speedometer%20Correction%20Gears.htm


It goes right from remove the exhaust to remove the driveshaft. Is there enough tunnel space to remove the U-Joint strap bolts and get the driveshaft out without also removing the C-Beam? There really isn't in enough room in my '87, but that is an L98 and DN4+3 setup which may be a little different back there.


If I have to remove it that's fine, just curious what to expect. Thank you. :cheers:

[tccrab]

It's really tight in there, not a lot of wiggle room between the driveshaft and the c-beam.
Not to say that it's impossible to extract the driveshaft without removing the c-beam, but I'd be really really surprised if you could.
I've never tried.
I could let you know in a couple of weeks, am installing a short shifter on my ZF-6 and everything I've seen says I've got to drop the exhaust.
Once I've done that I'll be able to take some highly accurate (and highly questionable) measurements.

Crabs

[AlbanyBrian]

My experience with removing the drive shaft is that it is easier to remove the C beam bolts and move the rear of the C beam over. It can depend on your car as there are some production variations and some it maybe possible to get the driveshaft out with the C beam in place. You can always try first once you get the exhaust out and see if you can find a position that will allow the drive shaft to come out.

[Mikey]

I have had the driveshaft out many times but never without sliding the c-beam back. It is a pretty easy job but I do have a lift.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

While you are at it I recommend you just get a set of C beam plates and install at the same time. It is not difficult to move the C beam out of the way if needed.

http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

[scorp508]

While you are at it I recommend you just get a set of C beam plates and install at the same time.

Great idea. Getting rid of the top nuts alone is worth it. I hate dealing with those.I?ll give Bill a call.

[phrogs]

Damn what am I doing? I've never had to move the c beam to get out a drive shaft in or out.

[scorp508]

Damn what am I doing? I've never had to move the c beam to get out a drive shaft in or out.

Share your magical ways. :notworthy

[tccrab]

Share your magical ways. :notworthy

Saws-all with a metal cutting blade?
:)

Crabs

[phrogs]

I put transmission in neutral then pop rear u joint out of the rear, slide yoke fwd to make room and turning the driveshaft so the ujoint end clears the rear end to the left and wiggle it out.


Sometimes I will loosen to parking brake cable frame mounts to get the cable out of the way.

I just did this I had a rear main leaking and swapped my transmission.

I should have made a video.

[scorp508]

Thanks phrogs, sounds like a good method to try when I dig into it.

[scorp508]

I finally did this yesterday and phrogs is totally correct. I left the C-beam in and moved it towards the passenger side once unbolted. There was plenty of room to undo the rear strap bolts (I need to get a ratcheting wrench for those, ugh...) and pull the driveshaft with the beam still in the car.