View Full Version : remoning the secondaries how?
jonszr1
06-11-2007, 06:00 AM
how tough is it .I am so tired of these things not working right. it is about to drive me bonkers. what is involved in removing them and who does the tuning? thanx for any help
91King
06-11-2007, 10:15 AM
Mike Ebert (EES) removed mine and did the tune. You can reach him at 985-960-2483
ROGER E
06-11-2007, 01:29 PM
Mike,
How did it run after they were removed? Did you notice a sizeable increase in power? Is ther vehicle smog issues in texas that could be a concerne here?
Thanks!!!
91King
06-11-2007, 01:41 PM
Mike,
How did it run after they were removed? Did you notice a sizeable increase in power? Is ther vehicle smog issues in texas that could be a concerne here?
Thanks!!!
The car runs great. Although I had the secondaries removed when Mike did my 402 build so I don't have any information on before and after that would be useful regarding a stock displacement engine. The 402 barely failed the Texas emission test so I had Mike burn an extra chip leaning out the tune so the car would pass the emission test.
mrzzzr1
06-11-2007, 03:13 PM
I just replaced all 16 injectors. 6 of my 8 primaries were shot and 2 of the 8 secondaries were shot. The motor was running so sick I was afraid I had other problems. With the new injectors I have noticed the following:
Motor fires immediately sometimes (but still may take 2-3 cranks other times) which it never did in the 7 years I have owned it. Power is there again which may be slightly more but not a major improvement from when the motor was well. I purchased my injectors direct from R/C in Ca and got then for $68 each which was a slight savings over a seller.
Kurt White states that R/C injectors are simply the best >
http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/inc/sdetail/19664
Peaven
06-11-2007, 05:00 PM
I've heard that running w/o the secondaries might cost you a little low end grunt....even if it does, at least you no longer have to deal with that crazy secondary vacuum system and the issues that go along with it.:???:
rkreigh
06-12-2007, 10:57 PM
it's not worth much at all in terms of power, but the car can easily be reprogrammed to run without them
on a stock displacement engine you lose some low end but on the LSV 390 low end torq isn't much of an issue
I love running without them car developed a bit more mid range torq
jonszr1
06-13-2007, 04:28 PM
did you doit or did you have it done . or is there a way someone could tell me how to do it and who to send the prom to. thanx for any help.
Belsy
06-15-2007, 06:36 PM
I am also considering this as I need to replace injectors so a good time to try. My thoughts were to get an extra set of injector hsgs. to experiment with and save stock setup. Also clean up and p&p top end for complete pkg. I heard newer versions take the same injectors (all 16 the same) if so that would simplify things. Any expert opinions are much appreciated!!!
Gene in Fl.:cheers:
jonszr1
06-16-2007, 04:43 PM
you do know that the butterflies are in the head not in the inj housings. i am really going to look into this as well as having the heads ported.
8upZR1
06-17-2007, 11:45 PM
I have done this myself and found no noticeable decrease in power, no gain either though. I am the type of person who can't feel a measly +/-20 hp so i dunno for sure (jaded over the years). I did not mess with the computer calibrations and it did not seem to care. This is probably one of those deals where you just have to try it on your car. Some cars will run fine, some might take a ****. Only one way to know.
The first time I did this I simply held the secondaries open using zip ties. I used two put together as one for length and used zip ties that have an eyehole built into the end to put a screw through. I popped off the actuator rod from the linkage to expose the nub where it attaches. I then attached the zip tie's eyehole to the nub and wrapped the zip tie around the actuator bracket or the fuel rail bracket while holding the secondaries open by hand. It was quite easy and worked perfectly for a total investment of $0.20 and 1/2 hour.
The second time around I physically removed the actual throttles from the head. This meant pulling the heads, removing blades and shafts, ( goodluck with the bearings) and welding up the holes that were left over. This was labor intensive but free. An added plus to this setup (though I did not utilize this) is that it makes eight perfect bungs for a VERY hidden direct port nitrous install. Sollenoids can be hidden under the coil tray by the starter, and there is fuel and plenty of wiring/tubing running in and out to hide everything. This setup is impossible to detect and is +300HP capable. Just an added bonus I guess of going through the extra work.
The first time around I left all of the vacuum routing stock. I left the actuators in the car and left them plugged in so that the computer would not have a clue. This seemed to work great. The second time around I wanted to clean up under the plenum and so I removed everything that was unnecessary. What is necessary? The computer monitors the vacuum signal that the actuators receive by using a second MAP sensor. It is located by the battery. When the secondary throttle solenoid opens engine vacuum is applied to the actuators and the MAP. When the solenoid closes atmospheric pressure is read by the MAP. The computer must see zero vacuum at that MAP when the solenoid is closed and vacuum when it is open. If it does not, it will most likely take a **** on you and you will need computer tuning then. I kept the computer happy and it never gave me a hassle. ( about the secondaries anyway)
I hope this helps. If you want to know more just ask.
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.