Alternator R/R-Gaskets

[wagonwx]

Looks like I have the flickering lights, bouncing amp meter gauge syndrome. I did a test on the alternator and it appears to be bad. I just R/R'ed the plenum for a tuneup and replacement of some bad injectors. The plenum has been on only one week. Would I need to get new plenum gaskets, again? or can I carefully lift the plenum, do the alternator swap and reuse the gaskets? Any recommendations on Alternators or should I try to rebuild it and the voltage regulator?


Thanks.

[secondchance]

Looks like I have the flickering lights, bouncing amp meter gauge syndrome. I did a test on the alternator and it appears to be bad. I just R/R'ed the plenum for a tuneup and replacement of some bad injectors. The plenum has been on only one week. Would I need to get new plenum gaskets, again? or can I carefully lift the plenum, do the alternator swap and reuse the gaskets? Any recommendations on Alternators or should I try to rebuild it and the voltage regulator?


Thanks.

Looks like your question I?d for a C4 ZR-1. Suggest you post on C4 ZR-1 technical section.
Actually, if you are careful, you can reuse the plenum gasket multiple times. I typically use Gasgacinch on the side attached to the plenum so that the gasket stays attached to the plenum. If a piece gets broken off, use a dab of Crazy glue and touch of silicone sealant at joints to keep good seal.
As for the alternator, I would prefer locating a good rebuilder locally and as for a rebuild along with increase in amperage to 140. Mae sure they are using US, Korean, or Taiwanese parts. No Chinese parts.
Before taking the alternator out, make sure all connections were done right.

[KPW]

No need to remove the plenum for alternator R/R. Sure, there?s more room if you do pull the plenum, but its do-able without.

Just need to pull the throttle body extension (air horn) and oil pressure sender and there?s just enough room to get it in and out.


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[secondchance]

No need to remove the plenum for alternator R/R. Sure, there?s more room if you do pull the plenum, but its do-able without.

Just need to pull the throttle body extension (air horn) and oil pressure sender and there?s just enough room to get it in and out.


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Absolutely true. Another method is unbolt the plenum and support the front end of the plenum with a piece of 4-5? long 2X4 - just enough for clearance while removing the alternator without unplugging connectors.

[Young1]

You may have to re clock the replacement alternator and for sure you will have to change the pulley. Or take the one you have to a reputable auto electric shop and have it rebuilt. The pulley is unique to the ZR one and critical for proper belt tension.

[-=Jeff=-]

You may have to re clock the replacement alternator and for sure you will have to change the pulley. Or take the one you have to a reputable auto electric shop and have it rebuilt. The pulley is unique to the ZR one and critical for proper belt tension.


Also critical for RPM for the alternator itself (probably more so than the belt tension)


I had swapped one once and used the wrong pulley (kept the OEM unit) and while it was much easier to install the belt, the High RPM of the alternator with the smaller pulley, killed it faster