Code 31

[Jetjock]

Now that I got my car started and relocated to my new house, I can pay more attention to it. After I got it here, I had no less than 3 items on my DIC. One is easily fixed: Put air in the tire. The second one is also kinda easily fixed: One of the teeth on the ride select is missing a tooth on the wheel on top of the shock. I had it out looking at but for whatever reason at the time, I just put it back in. The last one is boogerbear as my dad would call it. Don't ask!
I got a code 31. I went down this rabbit hole before. According to the diagnostic that I performed, it was the ECM. After going through all that, it still shows the 31 code. It pointed to the cam sensor. I did buy one from someone on here and it didn't work. Engine wouldn't even run. I put back the old one and the engine would start but won't accelerate. Marc Haibeck told me that it could be for something else. Any ideas.


Roy

[Young1]

Jagpanzer has made some camshaft sensors that work. I have probably 25,000 mikes on the prototype. There is much to search and read on the subject. They are NLA.

[Jetjock]

I saw that in a previous post. Problem is that they didn't work on my car. Could barely crank the engine. I talked to Marc about it and, basically, it either the ECM or the sensor. The ECM was done by Marc so I'm pretty sure the ECM is good. He did mention about shimming it with a .6000 washer. Problem is that I looked around for a washer with that thickness and I couldn't find any. None of the places around here don't carry it. Where did you get yours? I do have one of his sensors.



Roy

[viper107]

also throwing a cam code could be a misfire fault

[Jetjock]

Where can you find a .6000 washer?


Roy

[carter200]

Where can you find a .6000 washer?


Roy

Roy,
I?d go to Lowe?s and get a 5/8 (.625) one . Take a sheet of fine metal sand paper and shave off the .025.

[G8nightman]

What year is your car?


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[Young1]

The shimming is for the crankshaft sensor and to my knowledge only applies to the 90 model year. It?s funny that there is a code 31 for the Camshaft sensor but there is no factory code for the crankshaft sensor. I agree that misfires can show up as a 31 code and I would replace the crankshaft sensor with one from Jerrys. It is a direct replacement fit. If you buy one from the auto parts store you have to grind them to fit properly to the engine block. My engine was giving me trouble and my crankshaft sensor tested perfectly per the factory service manual but upon replacement took care of the problems. Use a bit of RTV too. They are easy to change out.

[Jetjock]

What year is your car?


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92


Roy

[Jetjock]

I'm working with Marc Haibeck on this since he redid the ECM. The ECM doesn't have any issues so it must be the cam sensor. I did get a Phil cam sensor and it didn't work in my car so I put the old one back. It starts up fine and runs good until it gets warmed up and won't accelerate and it throws the code 31. We'll see.


Roy

[Corvette95]

As simple as it sounds, double and triple check your positive wire AND the plug on your alternator. Also, check your main ground wires. I would fully charge your battery (slow overnight) disconnect your positive alternator wire and see if you have any changes. After that, when was the last time your plenum was off? Could your DIS connector be loose?

[Jetjock]

The last time was when I replaced the injectors and that 2014. I'm going to replace the cam sensor tomorrow and look and see if the DIS wire is loose before I start it.



Roy

[Jetjock]

Does anyone have a picture of how the Cam position sensor fits in the mount? I can not get the screw to start and I'm thinking that I may have it mounted wrong. Does it sit on top of the mount or do you put it under the mount? I didn't see how it mounted when it came out.


Roy

[Jetjock]

I'm having a very difficult time putting the cam position sensor back in. I can't get the screw to start. It's in the hole, just won't catch.I think that the last time I did this, it took me 2 days to finally get it started. The other problem that I have is I'm having an arthritis attack on my left fore finger and I twisted my right wrist kinda bad so it's pretty painful when I work on getting the screw in. Any tricks on this?


Roy

[ZR1CK]

Hey Jetlock, sorry to hear bout your arthritis. Believe me, I feel your pain. Anyway, I had the 31 code issue and immediately replaced the cam sensor, that is, after I searched the universe and by chance found one on ebay of all places. And it wasn't cheap. It turned out to be my ECM, which Marc did fix, and the car ran like its suppose to after that. But during my dillema, I did have the cam sensor in and out several times. I was able to reach it from the top and yeah, it's not easy accessing it, especially with the "arthur", but it is possible. You do need to have patience and take your time and it will go, eventually. My "Z" is a '91 and the small metal bracket piece goes on the outside of the sensor to help secure it. Good luck with it, let us know how you make out.

[Jetjock]

My big problem is trying to hold the sensor in and turn the screw at the same time. My finger is not working very well so it's been torture. My wrist doesn't like the turning part so it stops working. I just some way for the sensor to stay in place so I can concentrate on getting the screw lined up right.



I'm trying to get the car up and running for the Gathering this week. The forces of evil are upon me and, so far, they are winning.


Roy

[Young1]

Put the bolt is a 1/4 drive socket with a short extension. I also encourage the services of grandchildren. That bolt is a tricky one for sure. Maybe take a breather and Advil and try tomorrow.

[ZR1CK]

Young1, sounds like some good advice. Step back and catch your breath. Get back to it tomorrow. The "O" ring on the sensor should hold it in place so you don't have to, then you can concentrate on just getting the bolt in place.

[CamP]

For bolts in cramped spaces, I use masking tape to hold the bolt in a socket, then use the best combo of extensions and swivels to get the bolt started by hand. Once it's in a little, wiggle the socket until the tape releases the bolt, then you're home free to tighten it.

This works especially well on shouldered bolts.

[Jetjock]

Well, I don't have children so no grand kids. I have it sitting right in the hole for the sensor. I can push it and align with the hole but it won't start. It feels like it's in but it isn't. Fingers are hurting pretty good right now, so I will hit it tomorrow. I did it before but that was before arthritis and sprained wrist. It looks incredibly easy but it just won't line up with the hole.


Roy

[Jetjock]

This is the situation: As you can see in the picture, there is a washer on the bolt that is holding the bolt in place. The problem is getting alignment of the bolt that is the problem. I decided to take a different approach by using an 8 mm socket with a short extension and push it in and move it until it seats.


Roy

[ZR1CK]

Hey Jetjock, I see the washer, but it's not suppose to be there. You'll need to ditch that washer cuz it may keep the sensor from being able to read the gear that sends the signal to the ECM. Try putting a small dab of silicone sealer around the screw hole where you have the washer, not a lot, just enough so that when you place the sensor back into the hole, the silicone should hold it in place enough so you can focus on just getting the bolt started.

[Jetjock]

That's interesting because Marc Haibeck sent me that to put in because it's not factory built. It a Phil Wasinger cam position sensor. It has to be in there because it won't work too good with out it. However, is this the correct configuration for the cam position sensor? Getting down and looking at it, the bolt doesn't even reach the bolt hole.


Roy

[ZR1CK]

OOOKaaayy, I thought you were working with the factory spec sensor. That being said, with just the sensor and not the bolt, does the sensor seat all the way in past the O-ring and shoulder or does it stop AT the O-ring? If the bolt doesn't even reach the bolt hole and going by the picture, my guess is that your sensor doesn't go in all the way. I still have my old original sensor and I'll take some pics of it and send them on my next message along with some measurements. I'll get back to ya.

[ZR1CK]

Okay, I got a couple of pics to download, not sure how to, but will give it a go.

[Jetjock]

I have tried repeatedly to get the sensor passed the oil ring without success. When I think that I do, it just falls out. I'm going to work on something else and get back to it. I don't have strength in my right hand to push it in. If I could do that, I can align the bolt to go in. My right hand is hurting with the sprained wrist so I have to do something else to relieve the pain.


Roy

[ZR1CK]

Okay, Roy, I am sorry to hear how much pain you're having. Maybe you should take a couple of days away from it. Let your wrist heal up some.

And when you do get back to it, try inserting the sensor without the O-ring. Maybe that part of the sensor is just too big, although if you got it from Marc, then it should be right. And if the sensor does go in without the ring, then try putting a small drop or two of oil on the ring with the sensor. If it's really tight to begin with, trying to insert it dry can be a bitch.

What does the sensor measure from the base to the face part that goes into the hole? I'm guessing that it's just over 1.25" and that's why the flat washer was added to the installation, that distance is critical. Do me a favor and measure that, I'd like to know.

And hey, installing the correct sensor is not that bad, it can be done with just one hand, BUT trying to insert the sensor, line up the sensor bolt hole AND washer of the sensor with the bolt hole in the head AND also trying to get the bolt inserted is impossible with just one hand no matter how much dexterity anyone has...you need at least 3 hands in there.

If in fact that is the right sensor setup with that flat washer, what I would do is:
1) put 1 or 2 drops of either glue or silicone sealer on the washer to hold it in place on the sensor
2) insert the bolt into the washer & base of the sensor to make sure that they are aligned with a nut on the bolt snugged up to make sure it stays in place until the glue or silicone dry
3) then after it's set, put a drop or two of oil on the O-ring to help it slide into place

I hope anything here can help. I'll wait a few days to hear how you are coming. Give yourself some time off.
Good luck.

[Jetjock]

I finally got it in. It hurt like hell but it's in. Now to reassembly the rest of the car and work on the fuel system.


Roy

[ZR1CK]

Congratulations and good luck with whatever you have left to do. And I hope the rest of it goes a little easier.

[Jetjock]

The engine is put back together. Now working on fuel system.


Roy

[Jetjock]

It didn't fix it. I still get a Code 31. Starting to think that it's might be something else.


Roy