Final push towards the end...door weatherstrips

[Corvette95]

Almost done with this 2 year restoration. I replaced the drivers door with the last NOS weather strip I could find, it came in not in original foil GM wrapper...installed, door closed with one finger it has already began to crack and disintegrate even without driving, replaced with CRC now hard to close.. Passenger door, installed 2 different brands (no NOS to be found) door has to be closed hard. There is a bind near the side of dash, a pillar section. I have removed and adjusted it, adjust new A pillar weatherstrip, lubed the weatherstrip on body and door, still take too much effort to close.I can't see if it is the A-pillar weatherstrip, door main weatherstrip, windlace or even the door panel may be installed a little to far forward. I have tried to adjust all of these with no change. Same thing with window down, also there is no weatherstrip . Left it in sun for a few days -temps in 0's here in Bama, no change. I have searched this extensively, the most suggested repair is sitting in the sun but I don't think it will help. Gonna try removing windlace and try again today. Does anyone have outside the box tips? 1990. I think the door panel has a little room to move a little and I have tried that too. Tips appreciated.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

We have replaced hundreds of weather-strips over the years.

With certainty, I can make these suggestions:

1- NOS GM Material- If you can find it, ONLY buy it if it is in its original sealed package. If it has been opened, it may look good, but it's chemistry has changed for the worse and it will not work as it did new, and will deteriorate rapidly once installed.

2- Missaukee Molded Rubber is the ONLY material to use if you want to have the best chance of only having to do it once. We have used all of the other product out there, and have found this manufacturer to be consistently the best.

3- Be mindful of the temperature of the material upon installation. Room temperature works best.

4- Once installed, leave the door, window or hatch closed for at least 24 hours, again in room temperature to confirm proper installation. It does need to crush somewhat in order to fully seal yet not require slamming of the door to do so.

5- Rarely, if ever, will replacement fully resolve a bad leaking problem. Replace for air or noise infiltration or for cosmetic purposes, but do not expect new seals to correct fitment issues causing water leaks. It takes TIME and Experience to correct leaks by re-fitting poorly adjusted components, or ones out of alignment due to body damage or repairs.

6- Lastly, to protect and preserve your new or old weather-strip, it is suggested that you periodically apply a proper lubricant. We have found Sonax 03401000 Rubber Protectant GummiPfleger to be the absolute best choice.

While not giving you answers specific to your issue, I would first use the best available product.
Good Luck!!!
:cheers:
Marty

[jw63]

I recently replaced my door, top, and windshield seals with Missaukee Molded Rubber / Corvette rubber and had the same issue you are having with really having to slam the doors shut. It took a couple days / maybe a week but they are noticeably easier to shut than they were when I initially installed them.

There is a way to adjust where the door latches, but I'd recommend letting it sit for a while and see if it improves any.

[Corvette95]

Thanks, been on there for 2 months now.