Painting letters on plenum and cam covers and cleaning metal lines advice wanted

[Corvette95]

After I get my top end powder coated, how do most people paint the lettering in the plenum and cam covers. I know I can't do it with a brush myself, nerve damage doesn't allow me steady hands. Is there a stencil, do most free hand it? I see there was a cut out for this at Stillwater where they spray painted the lettering. Also want advice to clean the alternator and compressor's rough aluminum. I want to bring it to original condition, not above. Also I see a bunch of great looking a/c lines/coolant lines, and air lines and brackets on the Registry. I would like my 90 to look better. I DON'T want full polish or chrome look, but I would like it more "shiney" . I can do a lot with still wool, and have already begun, but there are a bunch of crevasses and non accessible places I can't get to . My a/c lines are still attached. I know this knowledge is here, I can see it in your signatures!!! BTW I have some never dull wadding that just came in I was going to try tomorrow.
Thanks!

[LGAFF]

I used a micro screwdriver and would just drip some in and let it fill... the blade to guide the paint...

[32valvesftw]

What type of paint did you use?

[Z51JEFF]

I’m surprised nobody has made a stencil for this yet,if I ever do repaint the plenum on mine I will have a adhesive stencil made for this. As far as briny a I the finish on the ALT and compressor take the ALT apart and have the cases blasted with walnut shells and scrub the compress with a soft bristle BRASS brush,nothing more harsher than brass and Simple Green. You can also try WHITE SCUFF PAD on the tubing to get the surface back to an OEM finish.

[Paul Workman]

EASY!

Of course the letter wells have to be clean, oil free, etc.., etc.

I found using a camel hair artists brush, and by hand was able to paint the bottom as well as the sided of the letter wells.

OF COURSE there was a little paint that got up over the edge of the letters, BUT! Before it dries, a little dampening of acetone (aka fingernail polish remover) on a rag stretched over the tip of my finger...worked perfectly! I was able to cut the edges to perfection - quick n easy.

Good luck!

Paul.

[Corvette95]

Thanks Paul, I am having the top end powder coated, I don't know if acetone of thinner would hurt the finish. I can't free hand (would not even think of trying) but maybe my wife can or I could find someone for that. I figured free hand would be the case, I just don't have a steady enough hand for it .Wish I had that Stillwater mold.

[32valvZ]

I simply use Hi Temp Engine paint. Spray a little in the cap of the can, grab a small brush and paint the letters/numbers. I find it helps to actually get a good amount on the brush and kind of pool the paint up a little in the recesses. Whatever paint happens to go "outside the lines", just lightly wet a rag with mineral spirits and wrap the rag tightly around your finger. Just wipe right over each letter/number and it comes out perfect. The whole operation takes maybe 15 minutes...

[mpiecyk]

Paasche Airbrush Co. makes the Flow Pencil that will work very well for your request its model # FP-1/32.
I have used this flow pencil on many auto emblems back in the 80s, the most intricate emblem was the cross flags on the C-2 & C-3 corvettes and they passed the Bloominton Gold & NCRS judging.
And for the paint I found the Sign Painter's 1-Shot works the best.

[Corvette95]

Paasche Airbrush Co. makes the Flow Pencil that will work very well for your request its model # FP-1/32.
I have used this flow pencil on many auto emblems back in the 80s, the most intricate emblem was the cross flags on the C-2 & C-3 corvettes and they passed the Bloominton Gold & NCRS judging.
And for the paint I found the Sign Painter's 1-Shot works the best.
Thanks! =D>

[32valvesftw]

Thanks for the info guys.

[Mystic ZR-1]

I simply use Hi Temp Engine paint. Spray a little in the cap of the can, grab a small brush and paint the letters/numbers. I find it helps to actually get a good amount on the brush and kind of pool the paint up a little in the recesses. Whatever paint happens to go "outside the lines", just lightly wet a rag with mineral spirits and wrap the rag tightly around your finger. Just wipe right over each letter/number and it comes out perfect. The whole operation takes maybe 15 minutes...

I sprayed mine. Came out great! Just mask all around the lettering to avoid how much overspray you have to wipe off. Didn’t go crazy trying to mask each letter. I used a paper towel dampened in mineral spirits while the paint was still tacky, not wet. Anything stronger might not be good... check it on an unseen spot 1st.
Much easier than trying to freehand with a brush etc.

[Karl]

After I get my top end powder coated, how do most people paint the lettering in the plenum and cam covers. I know I can't do it with a brush myself, nerve damage doesn't allow me steady hands. Is there a stencil, do most free hand it? I see there was a cut out for this at Stillwater where they spray painted the lettering. Also want advice to clean the alternator and compressor's rough aluminum. I want to bring it to original condition, not above. Also I see a bunch of great looking a/c lines/coolant lines, and air lines and brackets on the Registry. I would like my 90 to look better. I DON'T want full polish or chrome look, but I would like it more "shiney" . I can do a lot with still wool, and have already begun, but there are a bunch of crevasses and non accessible places I can't get to . My a/c lines are still attached. I know this knowledge is here, I can see it in your signatures!!! BTW I have some never dull wadding that just came in I was going to try tomorrow.
Thanks!

I would use masking tape/blue painters paint and elmers school glue on other surfaces that you want to cover. The elmers school glue will come right off when done.

[Corvette95]

What is the estimated high temperatures of the injector housings and plenum? I have to choose between normal 500 degree powder coat and high temperature coating (the high temp is more $ but more importantly, has limited color choices). Thanks!

[Paul Workman]

What is the estimated high temperatures of the injector housings and plenum? I have to choose between normal 500 degree powder coat and high temperature coating (the high temp is more $ but more importantly, has limited color choices). Thanks!

The coolant temp stays @ or below 220ºF, so i'd guess you'd be safe with the 500º powder, no? But, I'd go with the higher temp stuff - just in case to avoid yellowing.

Maybe Marc Haibeck will chime in hear. He paints lots of LT5s.

[Mr Blue]

For cleaning the alternator and compressor, I use a wheel cleaner designed for bare aluminum, such as Sonus Aluminum Restore, then wipe with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly.
David

[Corvette95]

For cleaning the alternator and compressor, I use a wheel cleaner designed for bare aluminum, such as Sonus Aluminum Restore, then wipe with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly.
David

Thanks, I looked it up, I am trying to avoid acidic cleaners. I know that limits my choices. I did mess up, I had the good alternator sent out along with starter for rebuild. should have blasted the cases then, but too late now, I want to clean up the alternator and compressor (compressor still charged and on the car) and preserve the labels. I may use the wheel cleaner, but its very hard in the difficult places, using the super small dremel takes forever.

[Jagdpanzer]

Here is how I do the plenum and cam cover lettering using filling method

For demonstration purposes I’m using junk cam cover I had laying around.

First be sure the paint or powder coating is fully cured before proceeding.


11757

Model Master enamel paint and small paint brush from the local hobby store.

11758

Filling in the recessed lettering with paint.

11759

Let the lettering paint set up for several hours.

11760

Shop paper towel and backing board

11761

Wetted down with mineral spirits

11762

Rub over lettering area to remove excess paint



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[Jagdpanzer]

And here is the results

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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

And here is the results

11763


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Elegant in it's beauty and simplicity!
Great job!
Marty

[lfalzarano]

[emoji106][emoji106]


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[BlackZR1]

Great demo Phil.
I'll save this for when the time comes...

[Corvette95]

Got everything back from the powder coaters today, looks good. Going to do the letters tomorrow. Does the Model Master enamel paint hold up well over time? Think mineral spirits is ok for the fresh powder coat? Thanks!
Here is how I do the plenum and cam cover lettering using filling method

For demonstration purposes I’m using junk cam cover I had laying around.

First be sure the paint or powder coating is fully cured before proceeding.


11757

Model Master enamel paint and small paint brush from the local hobby store.

11758

Filling in the recessed lettering with paint.

11759

Let the lettering paint set up for several hours.

11760

Shop paper towel and backing board

11761

Wetted down with mineral spirits

11762

Rub over lettering area to remove excess paint



Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Mineral spirits is probably OK...
That's what I used, "your mileage may vary",
Try an out of site spot 1st..
You don't have to go nuts with the mineral spirits, just dampen the cloth.

[Jagdpanzer]

The last time I did it the plenum and cam covers just came back from the PC shop. The Model Master paint seems to be holding up well. But don’t be afraid to use a paint you are more familiar with.


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[Corvette95]

Went with Phil's method. Worked out very well on the powder coat. Thanks !

[BlackZR1]

Letters and PC finish came out great!