Radiators and Yorkie brushes

[Young1]

Just pulled my second Z stock radiator choked with road debris. I think there was a pint of sand in this one. We have Yorkies in our house and I snagged one of their fine wire brushes. The divas prefer the brushes with the little balls on the ends of the wires. I got one without the little balls and brushed the exterior of the radiator with it and man did it work well to get the junk out out. I also use AC coil foaming cleaner to finish after tapping and brushing and blowing.

Question. I cut the original lower radiator hose in half to get the radiator out. I do not like the looks of the TSTAT housing to disassemble it. Can I get the radiator back in with a new short piece of 1 3/4 inch hose? Anyone done it?

[Bradjon]

Don’t think so I would get another hose

[Ccmano]

I’ve done it but it’s a bear. Just recently on my own car as a matter of fact. So, yes it can be done without removing the thermostat housing.
H
:cheers:

[Young1]

Ok it can be done. I will experiment cutting the hose with some angle on it. I will ditch the factory clamps in favor of the screw type I can put on afterwards.

[precast1]

Ok it can be done. I will experiment cutting the hose with some angle on it. I will ditch the factory clamps in favor of the screw type I can put on afterwards.Got a radiator that I need to install in the 67. Looks straight forward if you take the hood off and install the bottom hose before you put the new radiator in.

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[Ccmano]

The silicon hoses are more pliable and make this a bit easier.
H
:cheers:

[secondchance]

Young1,

Since you are working on radiator i thought i would share my experience based on my 94 with 170,000 miles on the odometer.
my experience with GM radiators have been passenger side plastic tank failure about 1/3 from the top facing the engine bay. I had two fail exactly on the same spot. It was evident, looking at the crack, that continuous expansion and contraction of the plastic tank combined with engine bay and coolant heat eventually cracks reinforcing rib built into the tank facing. When this happens, tank will balloon and crack. Just be aware of this. In my case, I went to dual row Dewitt all aluminum radiator and consider this to be one of the best bang for buck mod.
Also, at least for the short hose between the radiator to thermostat housing (I think...), consider going with silicone hose as a few are suggesting. Much easier to install and remove in the future. Another word of caution - silicone hoses seems to shrink in thickness over time. You have to go back and tighten the clamp a bit periodically. I was mysteriously losing coolant which drove me nuts for a while and then found out all my hose clamps were loose.

Thought I would share my experiences since you are working on your radiator.:cheers:

[Mystic ZR-1]

Not trying to spend your money, but....
Do your self a favor and replace the stock Radiator
with an aluminum one. DeWitts are good. Summit usually
has a good price on them with free shipping.
Don‘t trust those 30 year old plastic tanks!
You know when it finally craps out, guaranteed, you won’t
be in your driveway!

[secondchance]

Not trying to spend your money, but....
Do your self a favor and replace the stock Radiator
with an aluminum one. DeWitts are good. Summit usually
has a good price on them with free shipping.
Don‘t trust those 30 year old plastic tanks!
You know when it finally craps out, guaranteed, you won’t
be in your driveway!

That's for sure Doug. My second OEM radiator failed while driving to Mustang/Corvette club day at a drag strip west of Frederick, MD. Result was the head gasket failure. Pretty expensive ordeal! What the heck, it gave me a perfect excuse to rebuild the motor and while at it, why not 4" sleeve and pistons, while at it why not adding .1" to stroke, while at it why not higher lift intake cams, might as well port the plenum and IHs, while at it might as well port the heads, what the heck, port the throttle body, might as well, might as well... You get the idea?
Now that I look back, it was an experience of a lifetime! Priceless! And Master Card chatges to prove it.:cheers:

[Mystic ZR-1]

That's for sure Doug. My second OEM radiator failed while driving to Mustang/Corvette club day at a drag strip west of Frederick, MD. Result was the head gasket failure. Pretty expensive ordeal! What the heck, it gave me a perfect excuse to rebuild the motor and while at it, why not 4" sleeve and pistons, while at it why not adding .1" to stroke, while at it why not higher lift intake cams, might as well port the plenum and IHs, while at it might as well port the heads, what the heck, port the throttle body, might as well, might as well... You get the idea?
Now that I look back, it was an experience of a lifetime! Priceless! And Master Card chatges to prove it.:cheers:

Yun
Sounds like you invented the term “while I’m in there” :dancing
Stay healthy :cheers:

[secondchance]

Yun
Sounds like you invented the term “while I’m in there” :dancing
Stay healthy :cheers:

I dare not claim "while I'm in there" was invented by me. I will admit to succumbing to "while I'm in there" disease. :mrgreen:

[Subfixer]

I'm in the middle of a radiator replacement as well. Original was leaking half way up on passenger side. Dewitt's going back in with all new hoses and thermostat from Mark. I only want to do this once.... While I'm in there, I'm swapping out the DIC under the plenum to hopefully fix my code 43 issue and fix a secondary vacuum leak. New check valve and vacuum relay.
Car only has 22K miles, but I guess almost 30 year old stuff just breaks from age.

[Mystic ZR-1]

I dare not claim "while I'm in there" was invented by me. I will admit to succumbing to "while I'm in there" disease. :mrgreen:

Better than COVID-19...
Stay safe and healthy
We’ll be thru this soon and back to burning rubber!

[Karl]

Using the factory crimp style clamps are the best way to go. No sealant needed either. Just make sure to clean the upper and lower coolant pipes.

I used two crimp style factory clamps on the radiator outlet hose.

The Mitshimoto silicone hoses are a pain in the *** to install. There is no "lip" or "rise" that makes installation easier. The lower hose is a nightmare to install. It is sooooo tight...

Go with Samco.

I upgraded to a large aluminum radiator from DeWitt. Works really well.

[secondchance]

I used Jerry’s silicone hoses. A dab of Preston’s coolant on the pipe and inside the hoses and install wasn’t too bad.

[Top Toy]

I'm in the middle of a radiator replacement as well. Original was leaking half way up on passenger side. Dewitt's going back in with all new hoses and thermostat from Mark. I only want to do this once.... While I'm in there, I'm swapping out the DIC under the plenum to hopefully fix my code 43 issue and fix a secondary vacuum leak. New check valve and vacuum relay.
Car only has 22K miles, but I guess almost 30 year old stuff just breaks from age.What is the correct part number for the DeWitt? Not clear from either the Dewitt or Summit websites.

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[Young1]

I had no trouble. Bought a foot of straight 1 3/4 at Napa. Cut it to 3 1/4 long. Full length is 4 inches BTW. Trimmed the sharp edges. Vaselined everything. Slip it on the radiator first. Then put it on with fingers only on the Tstat housing. Centered it and used new screw clamps. No fuss no cuss.

[Subfixer]

What is the correct part number for the DeWitt? Not clear from either the Dewitt or Summit websites.

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https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators/products/1990-1996-aluminum-radiator

[Mystic ZR-1]

Don’t choke up, get the 2 row...

[secondchance]

Summit for some reason is cheaper and offer free shipping.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/radiators?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Dewitt’s%201139090M

[Top Toy]

Thanks! I ordered an 1139090M.

I was confused because the Summit website mistakenly says it's not a fit for a ZR-1. Much cheaper here ($519.99 less $30 coupon = $489.99) than directly from DeWitt ($569.99).

Summit for some reason is cheaper and offer free shipping.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/radiators?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Dewitt’s%201139090M

[secondchance]

FYI - dual core is about 1/4” thicker and will require 1/4” trimming of separation strip in the inside face of fan housing. Or, use of a spacer provided by Dewitt. Also, rubber support block on top and bottom will require trimming.
No big deal. You will understand when you read install instruction.

[Top Toy]

Thanks for the tip! Marc will be doing the install "while he's in there".

[secondchance]

Thanks for the tip! Marc will be doing the install "while he's in there".

The best way to have it installed.
While at it, consider Spal fans and 200 amp alternator. Overheating in 96 plus degree days will become a distant memory.

[dredgeguy]

The best way to have it installed.
While at it, consider Spal fans and 200 amp alternator. Overheating in 96 plus degree days will become a distant memory.

And while your at it, LED brake lights and have Marc double wire the 200 amp alternator to the battery and the AC blower, you will love the added volume of air out the vents. Mine went from 10 mph to 14 mph