OE Style Oil Cooler Lines?

[Black Red '90]

I purchased oil cooler lines from Jerry's Gaskets shortly after buying my car in March of 2018. The quality is great but they are collecting dust in my garage. The factory AN flare fittings will not budge. I've tried several times and had the car to two dealers without luck. At this point I just want direct fit OE style replacement lines. I'm tired of the headaches and tired of cleaning the leaked oil after every drive. I know there aren't and pre-made lines on the market, so I was thinking maybe a vendor who builds lines to order? I found a company called RB Royal https://www.rbroyal.com/ that looks promising. Has anyone gone this route?

[Black Red '90]

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage.




I can't speak for the techs, but that's the method I used on both a cold & hot engine.

[Jagdpanzer]

A few good hammer blows on a box end wrench should bust them loose. Steel fitting threads screwed into aluminum have a tendency to freeze up. Shock of hammer blows will release them.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[billschroeder5842]

A few good hammer blows on a box end wrench should bust them loose. Steel fitting threads screwed into aluminum have a tendency to freeze up. Shock of hammer blows will release them.

This is what I did along with the "two box" wrenches. Seemed to work just fine.

[Hib Halverson]

I used no hammer as the leverage provided was very sufficient.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/600x800-1/80-fa47d622_5899_4be6_a795_fef40b3adaa2_1__eacb31972e e04f98d59ccc5ba82a79b3a19ef435.jpg

If anything I would try a bit of heat on the area around the fitting :thumbsup:
(snip)

Ah, yes...when all-else fails, get it hot!

[Jagdpanzer]

Open flame could be risky in that area of the engine. Aluminum sucks up a lot of heat compared to iron or steel. To be safe I would remove the complete oil filter/sending unit, remove the filter, plugs, control valves and thermostat, flush remaining oil out with solvent.
To hold bolt it down to a piece of 2x4 and use a vice. Be careful not to use to much heat with cast aluminum.



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[A26B]

Open flame could be risky in that area of the engine. Aluminum sucks up a lot of heat compared to iron or steel. To be safe I would remove the complete oil filter/sending unit, remove the filter, plugs, control valves and thermostat, flush remaining oil out with solvent.
To hold bolt it down to a piece of 2x4 and use a vice. Be careful not to use to much heat with cast aluminum.

:icon_thum

As for the inverse of this procedure a/k/a installation tightening;
We have had 2 customers break the Oil Cooler Adapter by over-tightening the new fittings during installation. Teflon thread sealants (tape especially)greatly reduce friction on the threads. Add in tapered threads for the wedge effect, and large wrench size and it's a perfect storm for over-tightening especially if you think removal effort has any relativity to proper tightening.

Thread sealant is required and Loctite 565 is a good product for this application.

[Black Red '90]

I appreciate all of the suggestions, but they are not working. The wrench method (looped and hammer blows) is doing nothing more than starting to deform the fitting. I’m afraid that any more force is going to round the edges.

The online retailer never responded so I went to three local hydraulic shops today. None had the equipment available to rebuild the OE lines. I ended up purchasing two 12AN to 10AN adapters so I could install the Jerry’s Gasket kit without having to remove the factory fittings. Unfortunately, that did not work as the lines would need about 1 ½ inches cut from them to fit with the adaptors.

My train thought is to build my own lines: factory 12AN fitting>12AN to 10AN adaptor>45degree 10AN push fitting>generic hose>90 degree 10AN pushfitting>Jerry’s Gasket oil cooler adaptor.

[Dynomite]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]My train thought is to build my own lines: factory 12AN fitting>12AN to 10AN adaptor>45degree 10AN push fitting>generic hose>90 degree 10AN pushfitting>Jerry’s Gasket oil cooler adaptor.



Post 125 - SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-7.html#post1584987845)

[A26B]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I appreciate all of the suggestions, but they are not working. The wrench method (looped and hammer blows) is doing nothing more than starting to deform the fitting. I’m afraid that any more force is going to round the edges.

It's not that big of job to simply remove the Oil Filter Housing completely. Only 3 bolts at bottom & 1 at the top. Then you can vise it & get to the original fittings easily.

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-nkg90o/products/2/images/1416/10146218_N__43365.1439376903.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

[Dynomite]

You will then need an Oil Filter Adapter Gasket (https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/gasket-oil-filter-adapter-90-95-7-5c8/) and a bit of Permatex Gasket Sealant :p

You still have the issues of corroded and "locktited" Fittings to remove and I say again and again.......use a little heat on the Aluminum Housing around the fittings (one fitting at a time)........Propane torch or Acetylene torch will work :D

You do NOT want to "bugger up" the flats on the fittings :thumbsdo:

I use a bit of Permatex Gasket Sealant on the fitting pipe threads also when installing the fittings (Just tight enough to not leak....Do NOT OVERDO tightening the pipe fittings :p

Jerry knows why the small print regarding Permatex :sign10:

[Hib Halverson]

I appreciate all of the suggestions, but they are not working. The wrench method (looped and hammer blows) is doing nothing more than starting to deform the fitting. I’m afraid that any more force is going to round the edges.

The online retailer never responded so I went to three local hydraulic shops today. None had the equipment available to rebuild the OE lines. I ended up purchasing two 12AN to 10AN adapters so I could install the Jerry’s Gasket kit without having to remove the factory fittings. Unfortunately, that did not work as the lines would need about 1 ½ inches cut from them to fit with the adaptors.

My train thought is to build my own lines: factory 12AN fitting>12AN to 10AN adaptor>45degree 10AN push fitting>generic hose>90 degree 10AN pushfitting>Jerry’s Gasket oil cooler adaptor.



Back in my early years with Barney, I built a set of AN12 lines using Aeroquip parts and a oil cooler connection I had made. I did that and never had another oil leak for 28 years after that.

Did I read the above correctly,...the AN-12 fittings on the engine were "adapted down" to AN-10 for the hoses?

If so, why would you want to restrict oil flow like that?

Also, I take it that you still cannot break the fittings loose. If it were me, as a last resort and after I remove anything that burns which is in close proximity of those two fittings (that includes grease/dirt on the engine) I'd try heating those fittings with a propane torch fitted with a nozzle that allows you to keep the flame pretty narrow. I'd also go looking on the Internet for a big flare nut wrench or a big flare-nut crowsfoot wrench in the AN-12 size.

Another "hail mary" idea would be to remove the oil filter/cooler connection adapter from the engine then try and remove the fitting/hose combination from that adapter.

[-=Jeff=-]

Where do the OE line typically leak from? I still have OE lines on my car.. I don't think they are leaking

[XfireZ51]

Where do the OE line typically leak from? I still have OE lines on my car.. I don't think they are leaking

Mine leaking, sweating from the crimp area.

[A26B]

.......
Did I read the above correctly,...the AN-12 fittings on the engine were "adapted down" to AN-10 for the hoses?

If so, why would you want to restrict oil flow like that?
.........

AN-10 hose & fittings are the same size i.d. of the original hoses & the Oil Cooler Adapter.

Original AN fittings @ Oil Filter Adapter are 1" MNPT x Male AN-12
Replacement fittings furnished with Jerrys Gaskets Oil Cooler Hose Kit are 1"MNPT x Male AN-10. Hoses, fittings & adapter are all the same flow capacity at the original hoses & fittings.

[A26B]

..........
I use a bit of Permatex Gasket Sealant on the fitting pipe threads also when installing the fittings (Just tight enough to not leak....Do NOT OVERDO tightening the pipe fittings :p

Jerry knows why the small print regarding Permatex :sign10:

Sure I do. You are an unabashed, hopelessly addicted Permatex user! :cheers:

Maybe it's our generation, but I prefer the non-hardening type Permatex over silicone. On a much more limited basis than you!!:)

[Black Red '90]

Got the lines on the car today. I ended up using a set of AN-12 female to AN-10 male adaptors on the factory fittings. Although these adaptors had O-rings, I used Permatex high temp tread sealant. I reused the lines from the Jerry's Gaskets kit to save $$$ and because the fittings on the oil cooler side were known good quality. I cut about 3" from the lower line and 2" from the upper and installed 45 degree Russell fittings. The lines were rinsed with water & blown dry before installation.

I'm very happy with the results. No leaks after letting the car idle for 5 minutes, followed by a 15 minute test drive.

[Hib Halverson]

There is a "story" about the oil lines.

Back when the engine was in deveopment at Lotus, the oil lines were designed using some custom made hose ordered-up by Lotus. The hose ID was close to the ID for AN-10. The engine went to production with that hose set.

Problem was: that hose set had some kind of design defect that eventually had the hoses leaking where the fittings were crimped onto the hose material and also some of those old hoses would "weep" oil.

After a year or so of production and replacing a poop-load of those hoses under warranty, GM had to have more hose sets made. GM decided to change the hose set to solve the leak problem and sourced the hose domestically. Problem was, the ID of the original Lotus-designed hoses was not a standard size available in the U.S. The cheap bastards at GM picked a hose size smaller than the original design. Obviously, smaller diameter means more restriction to oil flow.

I remember several years after I bought Barney, my hoses started leaking. I pulled them off, went down to the Chevy store and said, "I need a set of these." They didn't have them in stock (obviously) so I ordered a set. A week later they showed up and the first thing I noted was the ID was smaller. "No way, send them back, dude. I'll make a set of AN lines".

Measuring the ID of the old hoses, I found them right about AN-10. Back then I had an Aeroquip sponsorship so I ordered enough raw materials to make a set of lines. I started with two AN-10 bulkhead fittings and had my cylinder head guy weld them onto the 90° curved section of aluminum tube coming out of the plate that bolts to the cooler.

After that, it was a simple matter of making up the lines, setting them in place and tightening the fittings on the engine and tightening the bolt on the cooler.

Those hoses lasted for 15 years and were on the car when I sold it. Wherever Barney is now, they are probably still on that engine.