Installing fuel injectors

[mmkkpro]

Good morning guys, I have a question about installing fuel injectors. Do you take the fuel rails apart when installing the new injectors? The shop manual is not real clear about that, thanks.

[Ccmano]

After you remove the plenum, you will see 4 10mm bolts that hold down the fuel rail. Remove them. Make sure you depressurize the rail by depressing the Schrader valve at the end of the pass side rail. Have plenty of rags ready to soak up gas. Leave the fuel lines attached to the fuel rails. You will be flipping the entire assembly up and over on to the windshield (or wherever it wants to easily go) once removed. I use a slim hammer handle (something strong but soft enough to not marr the injector housing when you pry) to pry the fuel rail assembly up with the injectors attached. The whole assembly should simply pop up and out with injectors still attached to the rail. Take your time, it may require some gentle persuasion in places. Normally they pop out without too much effort. However I have had at least one where the injector O-rings got so hard they didn’t want to release from the IH. Again go slow and work from the ends to pop out one injector at a time, they will come. Here’s a picture of what it should look like when your done with the removal.
Good luck
H
:cheers:

http://a63.tinypic.com/op23np.jpg

[Jagdpanzer]

You can squirt some WD40 at the base of the injectors where they insert into the injector housing. Then work the rails around a bit to help the O-rings release. Then proceed as Hans suggests above.


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[mmkkpro]

Thank yall very much, going to tackle it in the morning, I'm old school carburetor guy and haven't really done a lot of fuel injection stuff. I appreciate the info very much! Getting closer to firing her up👍👍🏁

[Paul Workman]

It appears to be a 1990 ZR-1, which has also been ported. (NICE!). Same here!

Injector sources:

FIC (https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/) can fix you up with the STAINLESS STEEL injectors and the appropriate seals (O-rings and plenum gaskets, etc provided by Jerry's Gaskets (https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/)(a source you should get to know!). Or, as I and many have done, install the Accel injectors #150821 from Summit Racing* (Mine I installed myself in 2010?) and they are working just fine!)

*There is a plastic indexing nub on the Accel injectors that needs to be removed ONLY on those injectors going into the secondary ports. 5 minutes with a Dremel for all 8 was all it took and the connector will snap right on - no problem!

[mmkkpro]

Good morning Paul, first thank you for your reply, I really appreciate all your guys help. I did buy my gaskets from Jerry, he straightened out my order for me and saved me some money, so that was great. Trying to test my secondary parts today, new vacuum pump installed and seems to be running properly. Slowly getting there.
It is a 1990, how can you tell if its been ported? I have tried to contact the original owner without success, so I really know next to nothing about its history other than what the guy I bought it from has told me. Thanks

[Z51JEFF]

Before you put the plenum back on you do want to check the secondary’s and you might want to pressurize the fuel rails to make sure there are no leaks. ITS BEEN AWHILE SINCE IVE DONE THIS SO IF DOING THIS ISN'T AN TOOD IDEA,somebody please advice on this. I remember checking the system when I did my injectors years ago. I can’t remember how to energize the secondary system through the ignition key but that’s the best process,somebody here might know how to do that.

[-=Jeff=-]

It appears to be a 1990 ZR-1, which has also been ported. (NICE!). Same here!

Injector sources:

FIC (https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/) can fix you up with the STAINLESS STEEL injectors and the appropriate seals (O-rings and plenum gaskets, etc provided by Jerry's Gaskets (https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/)(a source you should get to know!). Or, as I and many have done, install the Accel injectors #150821 from Summit Racing* (Mine I installed myself in 2010?) and they are working just fine!)

*There is a plastic indexing nub on the Accel injectors that needs to be removed ONLY on those injectors going into the secondary ports. 5 minutes with a Dremel for all 8 was all it took and the connector will snap right on - no problem!


Paul the posted Picture is Hans' Car

[mmkkpro]

Hey Z51JEFF, I put a new vacuum pump in and did the C17 grounding trick to test the functionality of the secondaries and the seem to be working as described by Marc. I wasn't able to afford the best injectors, so I put Bosh ss injectors in, I have to save up for the best ones. I have to fuel her up as I put a 1994zr1 fuel sending unit and new pumps in. Have the fuses out right now and still have not installed the rebuilt instrument cluster yet, plan on IC, fuel pump fuses, for this weekend. But yea, pressuring up the fuel system before plenum install is a good idea. I tightened up the IH bolts and the breather cover. I really need to take more time and detail the area under the plenum. I really want to start her so I can hear the engine. I am worried about all the marvel mystery oil that was in the cylinders, when we loaded it up on the roll back a lot of oil drained through the exhaust, I removed what I could, she is going to smoke like a freight train for the first little bit. Afraid all that oil may hurt my cats and 02 sensors, I reckon it will eventually burn off.
So if the engine is good and the seller told me it was or is. This winter I will buy the FIC injectors and pull everything out of the valley and do a proper clean up. I'm excited to start her and worried at the same time. I have a 1972 Pontiac 455H.O.bored and stroked, high compression drag engine that I run aviation fuel in but it has no cats and I have read aviation fuel is not good for cats, so we have fuel stations with 93 octane 100% gas reckon I will run that till winter when I plan on long tube headers and exhaust of some sort, maybe hi flow cats. If the engine knocks or smokes reckon a rebuild is in order, I don't even know the mileage yet I'm hoping when I put the IC back in it will pop up, seller told me around 80,000. Sorry if I'm rambling getting excited. I need to clean the pulleys radiator, I have read trash gets in between radiator and oil cooler and ac condenser. I am going to need tires, brakes and the passenger side headlight needs gears. A lot to do, but I'm getting there, I appreciate everybody's help, you guys have been great and very helpful.

[32valvZ]

Paul the posted Picture is Hans' Car

Stupid hip replacement meds are prolly clouding his vision... ask me how I know....:o

[Paul Workman]

It is a 1990, how can you tell if its been ported? I have tried to contact the original owner without success, so I really know next to nothing about its history other than what the guy I bought it from has told me. Thanks

DOH! (palm slap to forehead!) Yes, (thanks to Jeff - [he's so kind, ain't he?]:p), and yes, I am on post-op meds:rolleyes: I see now it IS Han's motor.

The runners of a stock (non-ported) 1990-92 are ~ 33mm diameter on primaries, and 36mm on secondaries. Once the Injector Housing (aka "IH") runners have been ported they BOTH will be ~36+mm in diameter, OR even partially or completely "siamesed". Han's runners are obviously - or appear to me anyway - to be uniformed AND appear to have the traces of scoring left by the tooling used to do the porting.

Oh, and why do porting?? Well....HORSEPOWER! The stock LT5, especially the 90-92s were starving for air. Porting alone, coupled with necessary fueling adjustments for the added air volume can buy you an extra 100+ "free" horsepower and bring you to ~ 490 crank hp w/o loosing any of the drivability you'd likely experience if you tried that with any (SBC) pushrod motor.

And with headers, "X-pipe" (and eliminating the resonator), it is common place now to see 510-520+ hp on stock cams, stock idle, ALL the accessories (AC) working as before! Re-ground cams, sleeves, etc.? Welcome to the BEAST!

Oh, and while we're on it, the DOHC LT5 will wind to 7000 rpm, and as Dave Mclellan once said regarding revving to the limit: "it (the LT5) will thank you for it!"

AND, after porting, something our own renown FBI guy and post production LT5 developer, Pete Polatsidis, put me onto is the look on people's faces when you do a 5-2 downshift at ~ 45-50 mph and stand on it to 7000+ rpm!* It will really wipe the smirk off the face of a LOT of wise-azz push-rod junkies!

* 90 mph w/ stock rear end

What's not to like?

[mmkkpro]

Sounds good to me, thanks for the education lesson. From the looks of the secondary injectors who ever was driving it rarely opened her up, will not have to worry about that now. I plan on getting her right and driving the wheel off her, like she was built to do. I'm saving for a performance chip from Marc now, he has also been very helpful to me doing this project.

[mmkkpro]

Good morning guys, can somebody clue me in on what gets ported on the top end. I measured the top of the runners in the injector housing and came up with 16.11 mm, the air horn in front of the throttle body measured 36mm, just curious, thanks

[mmkkpro]

Here is a Pic of the measurement, the read out says one thing but if you look at the black scale it says around 33mm, in no professional so my measurements or tool could be off a little, thanks.

[Jagdpanzer]

After turning the calipers on close it all the way then hit the Zero button and try measuring the ports again. If the readings still appear off it’s time for new digital calipers.

[mmkkpro]

Thanks Jagdpanzer, I did zero them a couple times, they are kinda old, the black scale reads 33mm, they were packed away and I forgot to remove the battery so must have cooked the digital readout. Time for a new one. Thanks.

[Ccmano]

This thread is a good read if you thinking of porting.
H
:cheers:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28608&highlight=Porting

[mmkkpro]

Small success to report, filled her with fuel, turned on the switch, no fuel pressure. So I ran a hot wire to the small connector by the windshield and heard my pump, knowing fuses were good I switched out the horn relay for the FP1 relay and instant fuel pressure and no leaks on injectors or fuel rail. Putting plenum on now and plan to prime the oiling system this week and try starting her Saturday. Thank all you guys for all the help, I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel! 👍👍🏁

[Ccmano]

Small success to report, filled her with fuel, turned on the switch, no fuel pressure. So I ran a hot wire to the small connector by the windshield and heard my pump, knowing fuses were good I switched out the horn relay for the FP1 relay and instant fuel pressure and no leaks on injectors or fuel rail. Putting plenum on now and plan to prime the oiling system this week and try starting her Saturday. Thank all you guys for all the help, I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel! 👍👍🏁

Curious, how are you priming the oiling system?
H
:cheers:

[mmkkpro]

I have been in touch with Marc and he turned me on an article he wrote about starting these cars that have been sitting. He uses a small tank with air fittings to push 3 quarts into the engine by way of the oil pressure sensor port. It looks like a propane takes sorta. They cost a couple hundred bucks, I think in going to make my own rig though. I've searched YT and some of these guys that do this to LS engines have some good ideas.

[Jagdpanzer]

Save some money and get a hand pump 2 gallon bug sprayer from Home Depot.
10203


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[mmkkpro]

Sweet, I was wondering if one of these would work. I wasn't sure they would push enough pressure, but that's cool, reckon I will scoop one up tomorrow, thanks great idea!

[Ccmano]

Save some money and get a hand pump 2 gallon bug sprayer from Home Depot.
10203


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How many psi does that need to work, Phil?
H
:cheers:

[mmkkpro]

Hey guys, I read somewhere that the 1990 has a small oil drain plug on the oil cooler is this true? If not how do ya drain the oil cooler? The oil in the car is full and looks brand new, I found three quarts of Castrol syntec in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat. It has a black oil filter on it and it looks new also. I think the guy I bought it from changed the oil. Doesn't this engine require 12% zinc?

[Jagdpanzer]

Hans,
10-15 psi


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[mmkkpro]

4 quarts Amsoil and 1 pint Zddp additive forced into the system, new Napa gold 1324 filter, going to finish adding oil, install plugs, fill coolant, see what happens. Thanks for the help.

[Ccmano]

Just FYI, you know these engines hold about 9 quarts of oil, right?


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[-=Jeff=-]

Also Amsoil has enough ZDDP that you don’t need extra

[mmkkpro]

Yes, on the oil amount, and rather be safe on the zinc, I going to have to change the oil again very soon anyway, did not get any out of the cooler and when I took the old oil filter off it was bone dry and even after I drained the oil it still had oil in the oil filter housing just sitting there. Is that normal? I let it drain for about 6 hours. Thanks.

[mmkkpro]

I wanted to ask about the air filter system, it looks like a k&n filter, but it looks very restrictive.

[mmkkpro]

Check it out guys, just put my new rebuild IC in and she lights up like a Christmas tree!! 78,416 miles on her, probably won't start her today but tomorrow for sure. 👍👍🏁

[Ccmano]

Very cool, enjoy! Take your time. K&N is popular. Normal filter is paper, the difference should be obvious. Yes normal on the oil filter, they are designed to hold oil and have an anti drain back valve built in. You don’t want the engine dry waiting for the filter to fill on startup. Look it much discussion on that topic.
H
:cheers:

[Z51JEFF]

I’ve found the BOSCH 3401 is the best for retaining oil for startup. As far as draining the oil cooler,for a first time owner not knowing what’s in the system or system contamination I can see draining the system but no need otherwise.

[mmkkpro]

Nobody had a bosh 3401 or k&n so I bought a Napa gold suppose to have anti drain back valve but after it sits fo a couple hours it has a rattle for about 3 seconds on start up. I ordered 2 bosh 3401s be here Tuesday. Thanks guys, she is running and sounds good, I have a 45, and 56 codes.

[32valvZ]

Nobody had a bosh 3401 or k&n so I bought a Napa gold suppose to have anti drain back valve but after it sits fo a couple hours it has a rattle for about 3 seconds on start up. I ordered 2 bosh 3401s be here Tuesday. Thanks guys, she is running and sounds good, I have a 45, and 56 codes.

Napa gold is a good filter.... the 3 second chain rattle is fairly normal after sitting and will probably still be there with the Bosch filter as well... Ive tried every filter between the 92 and my 90 ZR-1s and have always had a 3 to 4 second chain rattle after sitting..... one engine had 45k miles on it and my current one has 33k on it, it the noise is always there after sitting.:cheers:

[mmkkpro]

32valvZ, OK, has anyone ever thought about a pre oiler plumbed into the system? Or maybe oil filter relocation system? Just thinking out loud, since I got her running and she sounds good I can concentrate on tuning and detailing. I was surprised the plugs had such a strong blue spark, I need to install the brake master cylinder and check out the rest of the brake system. I was worried about getting enough coolant in her too, but it seems to have went pretty well. It had/has a lot of marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and exhaust still burning it off/out, idling is not enough, I need to drive her around the block a few times to get her good and hot. I appreciate all your guys help through this process. Also need an alternator, the AC works that surprised mee too. I'm a happy camper.!! 😀