Need your assistance

[lfalzarano]

I always have a trickle charge on the battery and this morning, I tried to start the car. There were no lights on and the car was dead. Assuming I had a bad battery, I jump started the car. It idled for a minute or so and died. I jump started a second time and it started right up. I ran it in the driveway until all the temperatures were normal and the parked it.

There was a rapid ticking noise coming from underneath the passenger side glove box. I tried to restart the car but everything was electrical dead and I couldn’t restart the car, but the rapid ticking still continues with the car being dead.

Side notes, I was planning on getting the AC recharged, but on the second restart above it started blowing cold air. Secondly, the low tire pressure light came on and the car had not been moved.

Any ideas as what could be ticking while all other electrical parts of the car are dead?


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[WARP TEN]

I always have a trickle charge on the battery and this morning, I tried to start the car. There were no lights on and the car was dead. Assuming I had a bad battery, I jump started the car. It idled for a minute or so and died. I jump started a second time and it started right up. I ran it in the driveway until all the temperatures were normal and the parked it.

There was a rapid ticking noise coming from underneath the passenger side glove box. I tried to restart the car but everything was electrical dead and I couldn’t restart the car, but the rapid ticking still continues with the car being dead.

Side notes, I was planning on getting the AC recharged, but on the second restart above it started blowing cold air. Secondly, the low tire pressure light came on and the car had not been moved.

Any ideas as what could be ticking while all other electrical parts of the car are dead?


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You didn't say how old your battery is, but it does sound to me like a possible bad battery or bad battery connections. Bad batteries or low voltage situations induce quite a number of symptoms on C4 ZR-1s, like chattering relays, clicking solenoid, various idiot lights, etc. So that is the first place I would look. Check the connections for corrosion and get the battery load tested. Any auto parts store can do that for you. In the connections department, the ground connection at the rear of the engine often gets corroded but that is a bit harder to get at. I once got a brand new battery for a '67 Austin Healey and the car wouldn't start. I went through every possible culprit including replacing the starter, until I finally just by luck decided to jump the car with my other car, and it started right up. Turns out the new battery had a bad cell in it. Oh well. --Bob

[lfalzarano]

The battery is maybe 2 1/2 to 3 at the max, but it could be a bad cell. I’ll check for connections first and thanks for the guidance.


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[lfalzarano]

What’s the best battery for a ZR-1 with min 690 CCA?


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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Battery or connections without a doubt.
First, have it load tested.
Then check all of the connections with a wrench for tightness.
(or the other way around)


The earlier response on clicking noises was spot on.
Anything less than full voltage will cause that to happen.


Nothing wrong with the top of the line Delco with 36-42 month free replacement and it looks close to stock and under $140.00
Marty

[lfalzarano]

You guys are the best and spot on. Replaced the battery and everything worked as normal including the AC not working and the false low tire pressure warning.

Thanks to everyone for your help.


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[billschroeder5842]

You guys are the best and spot on. Replaced the battery and everything worked as normal including the AC not working and the false low tire pressure warning.


Good for you- the easiest fixes are the best!

[lfalzarano]

Battery or connections without a doubt.
First, have it load tested.
Then check all of the connections with a wrench for tightness.
(or the other way around)


The earlier response on clicking noises was spot on.
Anything less than full voltage will cause that to happen.


Nothing wrong with the top of the line Delco with 36-42 month free replacement and it looks close to stock and under $140.00
Marty



What model is the AC Delco? I was only able to buy AC Delco model PS75 with 650 CCA.


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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Delco 75VPG (professional gold)
700 CCA for 95 minutes
42 month free replacement
side terminals only; looks close to original


Although you will be fine with 650.
Marty

[WARP TEN]

Glad to hear it was an easy resolution of the problem. --Bob

[GOLDCYLON]

I always have a trickle charge on the battery and this morning, I tried to start the car. There were no lights on and the car was dead. Assuming I had a bad battery, I jump started the car. It idled for a minute or so and died. I jump started a second time and it started right up. I ran it in the driveway until all the temperatures were normal and the parked it.

There was a rapid ticking noise coming from underneath the passenger side glove box. I tried to restart the car but everything was electrical dead and I couldn’t restart the car, but the rapid ticking still continues with the car being dead.

Side notes, I was planning on getting the AC recharged, but on the second restart above it started blowing cold air. Secondly, the low tire pressure light came on and the car had not been moved.

Any ideas as what could be ticking while all other electrical parts of the car are dead?


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Lou I am late in this response however to me it was an dead cell in the battery

[lfalzarano]

Everyone guessed it but me. Now I’m able to drive to a Chevy dealer to recharge the AC today!🥵


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[32valvZ]

These cars do crazy things with a bad or weak battery... A couple weeks ago I was noticing that the trickle charger light was bouncing from yellow to green rapidly.... it never does that.... always stays green. I checked connections on the alligator clips and they were good. I put a 5/16 on the negative cable and it seemed loose... turns out, it wouldn't tighten because the led threads were stripped.! From there, all kinds of little light bulbs went off in my head. Last time I had it out it seemed sluggish.. also thought I saw the info center lights flash once on me.... it wasn't my imagination... Went down to AutoZone and picked up a dry cell and all is well.

[lfalzarano]

Where specifically is the on board diagnostic connector location. A pic would be great, since I’m too tall and big to slide under the hush panel. If I could, it would be too close for my eyes to view! [emoji16] Getting old is killing me.


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[Paul Workman]

What’s the best battery for a ZR-1 with min 690 CCA?


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Next to oil, there is more B.S. hype surrounding batteries than just about anything you can name! OK, gimmick spark plugs is prolly right up there on the B.S. meter too.

The science for lead-acid batteries (flooded) has been settled since the 1800's. Johnson Controls makes many of the domestic auto batteries including (@ various times) Diehard, Interstate, & dozens more and slaps the name on them as they finish.

I prefer to use a Battery Tender on our 3 Vettes. One Wal-Mart is over 12 years old, the one in the Z is over 8 and counting...

So, IF you have the batter load tested and it is tired, I suggest a series 75 (gold series) from Wal-Mart and consider a Battery tender. It will serve you long and well...provided you don't make a habit of leaving your lights on.

[lfalzarano]

Model 75VPG was recommended Marty and now you. It looks like a winner without having to modify the battery holder.


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