Which oil do you use

[Z Factor]

There are many to choose from, so which one do you use and why?

As always, if the one you use is not listed post it and I will amend the poll to include it.

:cheers:

[tf95ZR1]

I take it you mean engine oil,
not trans oil or diff. oil, or cooking oil, or ...........

[Jeffvette]

M1, just like it.

[Artic93]

Mobile 1

[Aurora40]

Mobil 1, but I'm thinking of switching to Redline due to this zinc thing.

[ArcticZR1]

what's the zinc issue...I read somebody talking about that a while ago? I use Mobil 1...thinking about RP.:icon_scra

[40th#381]

I use M-1 Reg If you want Zink use M-1 Extended

Jan

[flyin ryan]

Mobil 1. no issues with it. i use it in almost everything i own. lot's of other good oil's out there though, these days.

[RICHARD TILL]

Castrol 20-50. Car has 113k on the odometer and uses about 1 quart every 1000 miles.

[Norsky4360]

I've heard something about "earth friendly" oil grades that can cause some MAJOR problems. Certain viscosity combinations in all brands have a "star" type rating instead of the normal circle. Anyone know anything about this?

[birddog01]

Just switched to M1 Extended.

[Z Factor]

I am a Mobil 1 user as well. Aside from having a great product I try to support them as much as possible because they have supported the ZR-1 in various ways such as Morrison's record run.:thumbsup:

:cheers:

[Aurora40]

I use M-1 Reg If you want Zink use M-1 Extended

Jan
I believe M1 Extended has the same lack of zinc now. That is what I've been using to date though.

[A26B]

M1 oil & filters. In everything I own. M1 is just my choice due to GM recommendation & easy to find, not to mention I've never had any oil related problems with M1.

[GrayZ]

Mobil 1...is the choice in my vehicles...
wesson in the frying pan.

[tomtom72]

I use 10-30 M1 full syn because everyone else does!:redface: Plus I can buy it in six qt boxes at the local Costco....they're closer & cheaper than any of the local auto parts stores.:mrgreen:

[Sgreg]

Amsoil, still has the zinc and is cheaper than Redline. Tests even better than Mobil 1 and Redline.

[Z Factor]

Amsoil, still has the zinc and is cheaper than Redline. Tests even better than Mobil 1 and Redline.

I am sure everyone would be very interested in seeing any tests that were conducted if you have a source?

:cheers:

[guinnessdood]

Using Mobil 1 Extended Performance...it contains 50% more of their Super Syn...super syn is the stuff that makes their oil super slippery. Lately I have noticed that the price of the Extended Performance has really jumped compared to the regular Mobil 1. I guess they decided they weres ellin it too cheap...

[Aurora40]

Amsoil, still has the zinc
According to Amsoil, they do not have high levels of ZDDP. It seems they don't feel it is necessary, they claim to have other anti-wear additives instead:

http://www.amsoil.com/dealer/techservicesbulletin/TSB_flat_tappet_and_camshaft_lube.pdf

[Sgreg]

All the test data can be found on Amsoils web site. www.amsoil.com (http://www.amsoil.com). I personally called Amsoil and talked with an engineer on staff there who went over the data with me aand assured me the zinc content has not changed in recent times. All the comparison tests are on their site. Outperforms in every category. We owners don't use it mostly due to cost and availability; it is expensive but it is easy to set up a preferred customer account and get 20-30% discounts off of the retail price their products. Supply is housed in warehouses around the country. I ordered a case of quarts online and got it in two days delivered to my door. Corey Henderson introduced me to it.

[A26B]

Amsoil IS good stuff. I was a distributor for it back in 1975 when I owned a machine shop. It was just too expensive & new for anyone to try back then. You're right about "why we owners don't use it." Also, I think a lot of us are reluctant to deviate from what's worked so well and been recommended by the General & endorsed by so many users.

[blackjack]

i use amsoil in all my vehicles...car...truck...boat...bike...snowblower. ..i ve had good results with it,and i sell it in my shop...it is more expensive,i agree,and harder to find around here
bj
91/1735

[Bell Curve]

I use 10-30 M1 full syn because everyone else does!:redface: Plus I can buy it in six qt boxes at the local Costco....they're closer & cheaper than any of the local auto parts stores.:mrgreen:

I use Mobil1 also. What is the price at Costso?

[lbszr]

I'm running m1 and getting ready to change to either extended milage m1,or royal purple, or redline or amsoil, still in debate. I'm hearing around 2004 oil grades that went to sm have a lot of the good stuff taken out cause of epa. Some turbo's in racing applications are suposedly locking up and other problems with m1 extended performance sm rated oil. M1 Extended milage is still sl rated,(and only walmart carries it in my area, the auto stores around me don't have it) along with royal purple, and Last store I was at it was hard to find oils that don't have the sm. Some of the racing oils and diesel are still the good ol sl rating. Only what I'm hearing from the internet though.

[ojb]

Hi there,

I live in Munich, Germany. I use Castrol RS 10W-60. So far I do not
have any problems. I use it in my BMW and my Jag also.

Oli

[11.72@119.26]

M1 in 10-30 anybody tried 15-50 to see if oil consimption goes down?

[lbszr]

200 miles on 10w30 redline oil. The chain tensioner rattle on cold start up is pretty much gone. Have heard a little rattle with warm start up after setting about 3 hours for the first time today. Going to do a oil analysis soon on how the oil is holding up.

[40th#381]

Hi there,

I live in Munich, Germany. I use Castrol RS 10W-60. So far I do not
have any problems. I use it in my BMW and my Jag also.

Oli

I use Castrol RS 10W-60 in my transmission

Jan

[Aurora40]

200 miles on 10w30 redline oil.
I just poured 8.5 quarts in today of Redline. Started it up to fill the filter and once it settles I'll top it off. Dunno if the car will run any diff, but holy crap is that stuff a pain to pour! You have to pry off the seal from each bottle, and with that slim neck and small opening they pour soooo slowly!

[lbszr]

I just poured 8.5 quarts in today of Redline. Started it up to fill the filter and once it settles I'll top it off. Dunno if the car will run any diff, but holy crap is that stuff a pain to pour! You have to pry off the seal from each bottle, and with that slim neck and small opening they pour soooo slowly!



I thought the same thing, I figured when I drop a bottle(which I probably will) maybe I can get it picked up before the small fortune all runs out. I'm sticking with it though, suppose to be some good stuff!

[Mika73]

Castrol TWR 10W60

[HIZNHRZ]

I hear Mobil 1 isn't what it used to be but I also use it in everything I own.

[Nick]

I just switched to the Amsoil AMO 10w-40 per Marc Haibeck's advice. Found it locally for no more than any online price I came across, less shipping costs. :thumbsup:

[32valvZ]

Amsoil 10w40here too, for the same reason Nick says...

[bradslt5]

Mobil one turbo deasel 10-40 4qts mobil one ext. 10-30 4 qt i can restorer. for the zinc it adds. 144k and hardley eats a drop?:o

[HADI-ZR1]

within 2 years I use http://www.shell.com/static/html/homepage/images/global/shell_logo.gif 2nd time ! :mrgreen:

FormulaShell® Full Synthetic 10W-30

[DaveK]

I've been using Mobil 1 but switching to Amsoil as per Marc's write up.

[DMark]

I'm now using 10W40 Mobil 1 High Mileage because its as near as we'll get to the original M1.

And 5qts jugs are still $21 at Walmart. :dancing

[ZR1Vette]

Amsoil AMO based on Haibek's analysis and ASTM comparative motor oil testing
Michael

[karterdon]

Mobil-1 10-30, I spoke to the M-1 engineers regarding the Zinc thing and the "wear issues" They tell me that M-1 is fully compatible with the LT5 engine and the additive package will fully protect just as it did when it became factory fill in 92.

Again - this become a personnal thing to each car owner, his beliefs, what they read and who they trust!!!

Don Yoakem
91-#267 Dak Red Met.

:)

[EuroPete]

Hi guys. I've read all you messages related to engine oil advice and I'd like to ask you a few questions.

I purchased my ZR-1 3 months ago and I had the oil immediately serviced, that is, engine oil and filter replaced. As I wasn't well read on this matter I put 10W60 Shell Helix on it and a Champ Oil Filter. I've made around 3,000 miles with the car (27,000 on the odometer when I bought) and I'm seriously thinking about servicing the oil and the filter again.

Do you think this 10W60 oil couldn't be suitable for very hot summer temperatures (over 100 ºF in my country)? As fair as I know 10W60 oils offer better protection in hot environments compared to 10W30 ones. But it's also true that the oil temperature in the LT5 is slightly over 100 ºF most of the time rolling.

Many thanks in advance.

[Jagdpanzer]

Hi guys. I've read all you messages related to engine oil advice and I'd like to ask you a few questions.
I purchased my ZR-1 3 months ago and I had the oil immediately serviced, that is, engine oil and filter replaced. As I wasn't well read on this matter I put 10W60 Shell Helix on it and a Champ Oil Filter. I've made around 3,000 miles with the car (27,000 on the odometer when I bought) and I'm seriously thinking about servicing the oil and the filter again.

Do you think this 10W60 oil couldn't be suitable for very hot summer temperatures (over 100 ºF in my country)? As fair as I know 10W60 oils offer better protection in hot environments compared to 10W30 ones. But it's also true that the oil temperature in the LT5 is slightly over 100 ºF most of the time rolling.

Many thanks in advance.

SAE 5W-30 is the oil weight GM specifies for the ZR-1 LT5 engine. I know a lot of Zs out there in warmer climates running SAE 10W-30 weight oil with good results which is also acceptable according to the owner manual. However, the owner manual specifically states "Do not to use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50". SAE 10W-60 weight oil is a lot heavier than specified for this engine and running it for long could cause you problems especially when weather conditions get colder. In plain terms the lubrication needs of the LT5 engine do not call for such a heavy oil to be used. The engine components are designed and optimized to work with lighter weight oils that are less viscous and easier to pump and filter. The use of heavier oils puts more load/stress on the oil pump and filtration system, causes higher viscous drag on the pistons rod and main bearings which reduces the net power produced at the flywheel.

[EuroPete]

Many thanks for your answer Jagdpanzer.

Definitely I'm changing the oil of my sooner the sooner I can. As it's not possible to get fully synthetic 10W-40 engine oil here, I'll ask a friend in the US to send me some gallon bottles of 10W-30 Mobil 1. I've already received a couple of Bosch oil filters, both PCV valves and a K&N air filter I'll have installed the day we replace the oil.

Using 10W-60 may be one of the reasons for the car not to run very fast until it reaches 2000-2500 RPM. I don't know how to explain, but if you hit the gas it doesn't accelerate progressively, it feels as if there were some kind of jamming or something. Maybe the ignition system is not working properly so I'm thinking about changing spark plugs, spark plug wires and even the distributor rotor.

[Aurora40]

SAE 5W-30 is the oil weight GM specifies for the ZR-1 LT5 engine.
FYI, only the later year cars. The '90 specified 10w-30. I think the change came when the LT1 came out, probably so they only had to keep one oil on hand. I could be mistaken about the transition year though.

[Paul Workman]

Using 10W-60 may be one of the reasons for the car not to run very fast until it reaches 2000-2500 RPM. I don't know how to explain, but if you hit the gas it doesn't accelerate progressively, it feels as if there were some kind of jamming or something. Maybe the ignition system is not working properly so I'm thinking about changing spark plugs, spark plug wires and even the distributor rotor.

As far as torque below 2000 rpm goes, mine is "soft" there too. It builds quickly tho and as you noticed by 2500 rpm it starts pulling hard. Looking at torque curves for the LT5 seems to verify what I'm feeling in the seat of my pants too. I love the LT5, but it doesn't pull down low like my '95 LT1 did. (I noticed this right away as 6th gear below 2000 rpm is quite "doggy" for the LT5, whereas it was "OK" for the LT1.)

My point is, I don't think the oil has anything to do with the torque below 2000 or 2500 rpm for a couple reasons:
It has more to do with the design of the plenum, etc as to where the torque curve "kicks in".
The effects of high viscosity would be more prevalent at higher rpm than at the "off idle" speeds. So, way down low the effects would be much less severe.

As for changing the distributor cap and rotor on the LT5...it will be hard to do, as the ignition is 100% solid state. - A spark control module under the plenum handles most of the timing chores with inputs from crank position sensor.;)

As for Amsoil AMO (preferred by Marc Haibeck - one of the ZR-1 gurus), or Mobil 1, just say the word, and I or most others here would be happy to send ya a case, if your US contact can't be reached.

P.

[threestar40]

Hi there,



I live in Munich, Germany. I use Castrol RS 10W-60. So far I do not

have any problems. I use it in my BMW and my Jag also.



Oli





so you can use that stuff in your motor and your tranny!?!?!?!?!?!

Rick

[threestar40]

M1 in 10-30 anybody tried 15-50 to see if oil consimption goes down?

I would like to report that I use Syntec 5W-50 in my LT5 and consumption is the same.

I race and drive the bejesus out of it...I mean I really punish the car.

It loves it. ;)

Rick =)

[ZR-FUN]

RP best of the best

[lbszr]

so you can use that stuff in your motor and your tranny!?!?!?!?!?!

Rick I've only heard of Castrol 10w60 in tranny which is what I've been using and then redline in engine if you want the best:worship:

[Zr1 Destroyer]

RP best of the bestx2....Doing royal purple 10w30 with the k&n filter later today! Has anybody tried the k&n oil filter here!?!?

[UKZR1]

I use Mobile 1 0w-40

The standard grades are not available over here and have to be inported. I checked with Marc first and he said it would be perfect for my engine - I guess he knows as he built it!! Its done over 12000 miles in the 1 3/4 years since he built it and its doing just fine.

I think regular oil changes are the key more than what make oil. Especially when you consider the amount of old oil that is retained in the engine at an oil/filter change.

[kirkstingray]

Amsoil AMO 10w40 Zink.

[secondchance]

M1 since 88.
My 90 BMW 735i had racked up 267,000 miles and was still running strong when I sold the car after 16 years!
All my Vettes (84 Z51 after 1988?, 91 ZR1 and 94 ZR1) and assorted cars been running on Mobil 1.

[Gunny]

M1 in everything I own including my fugly looking S-10 beater.

That said I just CHANGED the LT5's oil yesterday ... it now has Amsoil AMO 10-40 with the zinc. My plan is to test the oil every six months to see what is happening and then schedule my oil changes accordingly.

George

[Z51JEFF]

I just made the switch to Amsoil 10-40.I did this to see if it quiets down the cam chains abit.

[USAFPILOT]

Is Mobile 1 Extended Performance 5W30 a good oil selection for the LT5 engine?
:happy1:

Thats what I am using...but I am using 5W-30

[tomtom72]

I don't mean to be a wise guy, but I just looked in my 90's owner's manual and it says to use 10w-30.

Where did you find the 5w-30 info?

:cheers:
Tom

[DMark]

I understood from reading and talking to Marc H that anything "5W-" was too light for the LT5.

[pantera1683]

I use Mobile 1 0w-40

The standard grades are not available over here and have to be inported. I checked with Marc first and he said it would be perfect for my engine - I guess he knows as he built it!! Its done over 12000 miles in the 1 3/4 years since he built it and its doing just fine.

I think regular oil changes are the key more than what make oil. Especially when you consider the amount of old oil that is retained in the engine at an oil/filter change.

I use the Mobil 1 0W 40 too, the European Formula has the extra zinc and is only $5 a quart when on sale.

[MB ZR1]

I've been using Mobile 1 EP since I've gad the car. Was thinking of switching to Amsoil, but the availability isn't great around home. I have been putting GM's oil additive in every oil change and have no rattle so I'm staying with what works. I have my truck on Mobile 1 as well.

[MikeGolf]

Mobile 1 EP

[xlr8nflorida]

Mobile 1 EP

Both of you guys should look at Mobil 1 High Mileage.

It has higher zinc content then EP.

[cvette98pacecar]

I use to use Redline because of a TT GN that I use to own. Everything I have read about Amsoil has gotten me to switch. Plus I love the My Amsoil garage application. I can keep track of everything done to all 5 of my current vehicles.


https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%20MO-2007-08-08%20Flat%20Tappet.pdf

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

[cvette98pacecar]

For everyone that want to use AMSOIL but dont have it locally. Here is a contact where you can get a wholesale account for free. The 10W40 that Mark Haibeck reccomends is reasonable priced. For everyone that is in Canada they have two warehouses (Alberta, Quebec) so you dont have to pay international shipping.

John Hellein Toll Free 1(855)2267645
AMSOIL @ Wholesale
(407) 951-4781 | www.2Lu.be

[Jagdpanzer]

Looks like we have another high zinc/phos choice from those of the purple persuasion:

http://www.royalpurple.com/productsi/motor-oil-hps-5w30.png
http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil-HPS.html

Has anyone tried this?

[cvette98pacecar]

Looks like we have another high zinc/phos choice from those of the purple persuasion:

http://www.royalpurple.com/productsi/motor-oil-hps-5w30.png
http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil-HPS.html

Has anyone tried this?

I looked everywhere and could not find the technical specifications for any Royal Purple product. I'm sticking with Amsoil all the Data that you need is a finger click away.

[Corbusa]

I have used M-1 for years and it is a great oil..Last week I got the Amsoil Zrod 10-30..But I have thought about using RP, They're all good..

[scottfab]

I am happy with pennzoil ultra fully synthetic
http://www.pennzoil.com/#/motor-oil/pennzoil-ultra/

[a1991zr1]

mobil 1 with two quarts of lucas synthetic never had a problem knock on wood.

[SteelBlueZR1]

Mobile 1 high Mileage 10-30 recommended by Halbeck due to right zinc levels.

[scottfab]

This poll should have been set up to change your vote. (not sure there is that feature) I'm going to be trying Royal Purple or that new Casterol (caster oil) stuff and can't change my vote.

[cvette98pacecar]

Mobile 1 high Mileage 10-30 recommended by Halbeck due to right zinc levels.

I think Mark H. has been Recommending Amsoil AMO10W40.

[XfireZ51]

Castrol GTX 15-W40 Diesel.

[Paul Workman]

Considering the well established fact that ZDDP is important to flat tappet motors (from personal experience with a SBC motor too), If I assume those indicating Mobil 1 are using the oil of the current API "SN" rating (read: much reduced ZDDP levels), am I alone or does that bother anyone else to think so many ZR-1s are "in harms way"? ARE they in harms way?

p.

[VetteMed]

Considering the well established fact that ZDDP is important to flat tappet motors (from personal experience with a SBC motor too), If I assume those indicating Mobil 1 are using the oil of the current API "SN" rating (read: much reduced ZDDP levels), am I alone or does that bother anyone else to think so many ZR-1s are "in harms way"? ARE they in harms way?

p.

I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage, which has close to the correct levels of Zinc.

[Paul Workman]

I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage, which has close to the correct levels of Zinc.

OK, but do you think "High Mileage" makes up the bulk of the Mobil 1 responses? I'm guessing not, but dunno. If most are using the regular Mobil 1, then the message the poll conveys bothers me - it is missleading w/ regard to what should be used i.e., a higher ZDDP oil

Put another way...

If the high percentage of use is based solely on that sticker under the hood of all 92+ MY Vettes, then there is potential for problems and it knaws at me (though oil - related problems don't seem to appear all that much - on this board at least).

Maybe ZDDP in the LT5 is not that big a deal (to some). But, I can't see me rolling the dice on mine - Make mine synthetic w/ ZDDP comiserate with 1990.


I'm just sayin...the graph bugs me cuz it (to me) clearly recommends the wrong stuff.:censored:

P.

[VetteMed]

From what I've seen in other posts, I'd guess maybe 30-40% of the Mobil 1 users are using the High Mileage formula. That's a WAG though, with no facts to back it up.

Some thoughts to consider, though, include the fact that spring pressures are less in the LT5 as compared to an OHV flat-tappet motor, so the importance of the zinc content may be less. Also, improvements in oil technology in the last 20 years may mean that even without the zinc, there's still adequate protection of those camshaft lobes and lifter faces.




OK, but do you think "High Mileage" makes up the bulk of the Mobil 1 responses? I'm guessing not, but dunno. If most are using the regular Mobil 1, then the message the poll conveys bothers me - it is missleading w/ regard to what should be used i.e., a higher ZDDP oil

Put another way...

If the high percentage of use is based solely on that sticker under the hood of all 92+ MY Vettes, then there is potential for problems and it knaws at me (though oil - related problems don't seem to appear all that much - on this board at least)

Maybe ZDDP in the LT5 is not that big a deal (to some). But, I can't see me rolling the dice on mine - Make mine synthetic w/ ZDDP comiserate with 1990.


I'm just sayin...the graph bugs me cuz it (to me) clearly recommends the wrong stuff.:censored:

P.

[XfireZ51]

Paul,

I'm one of the guys that changes the oil in his "toy" cars every 2,000mi along w filter. Did that with the 84 also. So High Mileage or Synthetic means nothing to me. The Castrol Diesel has the ZDDP levels needed at the price of regular oil ($4.50/qt) and I've used the GTX stuff for over 30 years.
The issue of ZDDP never came up w my 84 and as you know that was a flat tappet motor. I converted over to a full roller setup in 2000 for performance not the ZDDP issue. I have posted pics of the new cams in my LT-5 motor after about 2500mi of use. Lobes look like new.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Paul,

I'm one of the guys that changes the oil in his "toy" cars every 2,000mi along w filter. Did that with the 84 also. So High Mileage or Synthetic means nothing to me. The Castrol Diesel has the ZDDP levels needed at the price of regular oil ($4.50/qt) and I've used the GTX stuff for over 30 years.
The issue of ZDDP never came up w my 84 and as you know that was a flat tappet motor. I converted over to a full roller setup in 2000 for performance not the ZDDP issue. I have posted pics of the new cams in my LT-5 motor after about 2500mi of use. Lobes look like new.


Dom, have you compared the ZDDP data from a few yrs ago vs today's levels in the Castrol you're buying? I'm told that the levels were dropped when catalytic converters were required on the big rigs.

[XfireZ51]

Dom, have you compared the ZDDP data from a few yrs ago vs today's levels in the Castrol you're buying? I'm told that the levels were dropped when catalytic converters were required on the big rigs.

Castrol PDS

1300 ppm zinc

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_GTX_Diesel.pdf

[XfireZ51]

Also

"BTW - The Castrol Rep also told me that the Castrol Diesel 15W-40 oil has a higher flash and shear point than the Castrol 10W-40 and 20W-50 oil I have been using in the Old Broad since she was new. Great!!! That way I don't have to worry about coking of the oil in the turbo oil cavity in the summer or winter especially after running her hard on the freeways or the streets in the summer."

....Comment on Feb 2012

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Good to hear, Dom. I was just wondering about that after a discussion with my engine guy today. Do you have cats?

[cvette98pacecar]

I generally like a heavy body Olive with a little oregano and plenty of garlic.

[A1990]

I have been using this in the Atomic Z per recommendation from Flyin Ryan

http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/learn/whyhotrodoil.html

[tomtom72]

With respect to this ZDDP issue and cam lobe failure, I'll pass this nugget along that showed up in a newsletter I get called LSxTV....or something like that. I get like three of them every week.

Anyway, fwiw, they had an article last month discussing oil & ZDDP & cam/lifter failures. I can't remember specifically which boutique oil company participated, but they had an oil company engineer in the discussion along with an engineer from CompCams. Anyway, the main point was that all the agony over the cam wear was due to the blank supplier to CompCams using some bad metal, and not the reduction of the levels of ZDDP to the present levels. This was CompCams' research findings.

I'll go thru their archives and if I find it I'll post a link, okay? In a somewhat related situation. I have a Q about this ZDDP thing in my own mind that I don't have enough knowledge to noodle thru to an answer: What about all the DOHC motors that are in all these economy cars like my Cobalt? Don't they need this ZDDP at the correct levels? I mean even a lot of the V6's are DOHC motors, like the base motor in the stangs & camaros, no? I guess what I don't get is would OEM's be offering these warranties knowing that new oil will cause cam failure? Sorry for my sticking my two cents in here, but something just doesn't add up to me in this whole picture.:o

:cheers:
Tom

[SteelBlueZR1]

The definitive Marc Haibeck's article on this subject says correct ZDDP is in Mobil 1 High Mileage or Amsoil - http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Modern%20Motor%20Oil%20and%20the%20LT5%20Engine.pd f -
"Most modern GM engines use roller valve lifters. They have short timing chains to drive a single camshaft or dry belts to drive multiple camshafts. The need for EP protection for these engines is decreasing. Japanese carmakers that like to use long metal timing chains are evaluating the effects of the future oil standard on their designs.
My concern is for the flat valve lifters, the camshafts, the timing chains and the sprockets in the LT5. I believe that the SM oil for new cars is not appropriate for the LT5. The Mobil 1 Oil Company has also recognized the needs of flat lifter engines with respect to their products. They recommend their reformulated 15W-50 productvi for engines with high-tension valve springs. I think that 15W-50 oil is too high in viscosity for the LT5. The Mobil 1 High mileage products are also acceptable for the LT5 engine.

The Amsoil Company has addressed this issue with a product that is specifically designed for engines with flat valve lifters and high tension valve springs. It is formulated with high phosphorus and zinc protection. It meets the API SG specification that was used when the LT5 was designed. The product is named AMO 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection. It takes a two-pronged approach, higher EP additives and superior film strength due to the higher viscosity.
AmsoilAMOZDDPspecifications: Phosphorus 1265 ppm
Zinc 1378 ppm
Comment: Recommended for the LT5 engine. Also for other engines with high tension valve springs.

[BigJohn]

I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 for 18 years.

[Vetman]

I use "Mobil I high mileage" per forum recommendations.

[taximan]

Amsoil 10w40here too, for the same reason Nick says...


Amsoil also,

for the same reason Nick and 32valvZ stated

[Konrad]

Royal Purple HPS with synerlec - my corvette like it.

[scottfab]

fish oil with omega-3 works good too

[USAZR1]

I used Redline 10W40 in my first two ZR-1's but haven't decided on an oil yet for our 94. Amsoil is a strong possibility since my oil change shop is a dealer.

[WydGlydJim]

AMSOIL.......I have used it in everything since 1993 with good results....I am however using Z-Rod, which is probably not what everyone else is using in AMSOIL.:cheers:

[Schrade]

In the Z? Any synthetic.

I owned a fleet for courier & delivery. They got whatever was on sale.

When oil gets changed every 3 weeks (5k), it doesn't matter too much...

[Mystic ZR-1]

How come everyone likes 10/40?
GM recommended 10/30.

[scottfab]

How come everyone likes 10/40?
GM recommended 10/30.

because the number is bigger. Must be better ;)
Seriously I use 10w30 with two qts of 10w40.
Just seems to quiet the CTT noise better.

[USAZR1]

GM also recommended 5W-30 and my 90 would burn a quart of that every 600 miles. Switching to 10W-40 reduced consumption to about one quart every 1,200 miles and also quieted down the CTT rattle considerably.

[BigJohn]

How come everyone likes 10/40?
GM recommended 10/30.

I use 15/50 Mobil 1!!!!!!!


;)

[thirstyzr1]

Mobile 1...goes from the Z to the lawn mower and winter beater

[scottfab]

Mobile 1...goes from the Z to the lawn mower and winter beater

Until he totaled and sold it I use to transfer the fully synthetic from the Z to my son's Explorer. Good enough for a ford :-D

[edram454]

Mobil High mileage. It has good zddp levels and I can buy it all day long at walmart cheaply. I like amsoil but why pay that price when this oil is available for so much less money.

ed ramos #3028

[lakemeadzmonster]

I have been using Amsoil products in most of my cars since the 70's. That once a year Oil change alway's appealed to me. :proud:

[BigJohn]

What 70's cars do you still have?

[efnfast]

How about some guy smarter than me sets up a new poll, "how often do you change your oil and other fluids".

[lakemeadzmonster]

*@#% (*@#%) the Copy Cats and Walmart as we'll!:salute:

[lakemeadzmonster]

If I didn't live so close to a Amsoil warehouse I would do group and bulk :salute:orders, all synthetic's are great sludge busters anyhow.and easier on the engine.

[Dynomite]

*@#% the Copy Cats and Walmart as we'll!:salute:

What does *@#% mean?
I know Walmart but do not know the copy Cats :dontknow:

how often do you change your oil and other fluids.

See how often do you change your oil and other fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-8.html#post1586530130)

[BigJohn]

After it all leaks out?

[Billy Mild]

Mobil 1 high mileage. It has the higher levels of Zinc the engine needs. I would run Brad Penn, but its only Semi Syn.

[Toni94ZR1]

Here in Barcelona (Spain) we use in our ZR1:

Mobil 1 5W50 Peak Life

API SN / SM / SL

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4

API CF

Mobil 1 5W50 Peak Life aproval:

VW 501 01/505 00

PORSCHE A40

MB-Approval 229.1 / 229.3

BMW High Performance Diesel

Lexus LFA Factory Complete



Specifications:

Valor Viscosidad, cSt ASTM D445

@ 40 º C 108

@ 100 º C 17,5

Índice de viscosidad 180

Sulfatada Ceniza,% en peso (ASTM D874) 1.3

El fósforo,% en peso (ASTM D4951) 0.1

Punto de inflamación, º C (ASTM D92) 231

Density@15.6 º C g / ml, (ASTM D4052) 0,85

Número Total de Base (ASTM D2896) 11,8

MRV a -35 º C, CP (ASTM D4684) 29.244

Viscosidad HTHS, mPa • s @ 150 º C (ASTM D4683) 4.4

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Here in Barcelona (Spain) we use in our ZR1:

Mobil 1 5W50 Peak Life

API SN / SM / SL

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4

API CF

Mobil 1 5W50 Peak Life aproval:

VW 501 01/505 00

PORSCHE A40

MB-Approval 229.1 / 229.3

BMW High Performance Diesel

Lexus LFA Factory Complete



Specifications:

Valor Viscosidad, cSt ASTM D445

@ 40 º C 108

@ 100 º C 17,5

Índice de viscosidad 180

Sulfatada Ceniza,% en peso (ASTM D874) 1.3

El fósforo,% en peso (ASTM D4951) 0.1

Punto de inflamación, º C (ASTM D92) 231

Density@15.6 º C g / ml, (ASTM D4052) 0,85

Número Total de Base (ASTM D2896) 11,8

MRV a -35 º C, CP (ASTM D4684) 29.244

Viscosidad HTHS, mPa • s @ 150 º C (ASTM D4683) 4.4

Hello Toni,

Sound good. I don't think we have that Mobil1 in the US. What kind of PPM does it have for phosphorous and zinc?

When are you and your brother coming out to C4/ZR-1 Gathering at BG again?

Take care and Aloha,

[Hib Halverson]

Wow!
Those pole results...
A stunning endorsement of ExxonMobil's marketing of the "Mobil 1" brand.

In fact, that the three highest poling engine oils all come from companies which market very aggressively speaks volumes about how oil companies market products and what consumers believe about oil company advertising.

[Hib Halverson]

Hello Toni,

Sound good. I don't think we have that Mobil1 in the US. What kind of PPM does it have for phosphorous and zinc?

When are you and your brother coming out to C4/ZR-1 Gathering at BG again?

Take care and Aloha,

According to what was posted previously, the M1 5W50 available in Spain is an API SL-rated oil BUT, is exempt from the ZDDP limits in that category because it's a 50-wt. According to ExxonMobil information I have on file, zinc is 1000 ppm and phosphorous is 1200 ppm.

Keep in mind that no LT5 needs an SAE 50 engine oil unless the duty cycle is severe in very hot weather. For normal street use and even street high-performance use, I would not recommend a 5W50 in an LT5.

Also, LT5s are OHC engines with direct acting bucket tappets. The loading on the camshaft lobes and lifter faces are far less in an OHC valve train than they are in a pushrod valve train, thus, there is no need for high levels of ZDDP.

[Mr Blue]

Wow!
Those pole results...
A stunning endorsement of ExxonMobil's marketing of the "Mobil 1" brand.

In fact, that the three highest poling engine oils all come from companies which market very aggressively speaks volumes about how oil companies market products and what consumers believe about oil company advertising.

It's more than advertising. The widespread availability and subsequent lower price also account for the predominance of the Mobil 1 brand. Also, having a Mobil 1 placard under the hood helps. Name recognition and being the first to market synthetic on a large scale don't hurt either. You are correct that marketing is a big driver of our choices. Amsoil is marketed as a " craft oil" to those who don't like the thought of a mass produced product in their pride and joy. Do they fill a niche in the market? Yes. Do they do more or better research the Mobil or Castrol? Probably not. Things that that make you say hmmmm.

[Mr Blue]

Wow!
Those pole results...
A stunning endorsement of ExxonMobil's marketing of the "Mobil 1" brand.

In fact, that the three highest poling engine oils all come from companies which market very aggressively speaks volumes about how oil companies market products and what consumers believe about oil company advertising.

It's more than advertising. The widespread availability and subsequent lower price also account for the predominance of the Mobil 1 brand. Also, having a Mobil 1 placard under the hood helps. Name recognition and being the first to market synthetic on a large scale don't hurt either. You are correct that marketing is a big driver of our choices. Amsoil is marketed as a " craft oil" to those who don't like the thought of a mass produced product in their pride and joy. Do they fill a niche in the market? Yes. Do they do more or better research the Mobil or Castrol? Probably not. Things that that make you say hmmmm.

[BigJohn]

Wow! Now I am seeing double.

[Mystic ZR-1]

Wow! Now I am seeing double.

How's things in Hoosier-land?

[BigJohn]

How's things in Hoosier-land?

80 degree afternoons and sunny. The GTX has a gas tank leak. But that is part of owning antique cars!

[WB9MCW]

The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/

Zinc Versus Detergent In Motor Oil

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-vs-detergent/

[Paul Workman]

Interesting stuff.

As I read the article, I get the "drift" it is fundamentally applicable to pushrod applications (i.e., references to spring tension and lift heights, etc). What I read does not directly addressed is the pressures on cam and lifter contact surfaces as a function of inertia, i.e., speed of rotation.

My point is, whereas the issues with spring tension and valve lift are directly applicable to metal to metal pressure between friction surfaces, the rate or speed of lifting the valve creates considerable forces required to overcome the inertia dynamic. And, it is that dynamic in conjunction with static force that sets the stage for oil performance.

Although the article touches on the fact that ZDDP of API 'SN' is around 800 (I've seen reference to 700 ppm ZDDP for API SN) in order to meet EPA requirements pertaining to catalytic converter life, it doesn't mention that at the same time roller tappets became the norm (primarily in pushrod applications where those necessarily enormous spring tensions and lifts are encountered).

When considering the combination of static and dynamic forces, there's a big difference between 7000+ rpm and 5500 rpm*. So, omitting or failing to acknowledge the differences in RPM and the affect on the dynamic forces speed introduces, I believe there is significant risk the article could leave the impression that oil requirements for relatively low rpm pushrod applications are also directly applicable to higher rpm DOHC applications...but are they????

*The increase of force to accelerate a mass increases at the square of the rate of change.

And, what IS "Mobil-1" anyway? 10W-30 in 1990 isn't the same formulation as it is today. ZDDP is considerably less now than when our beloved motors were designed and built. It may interest some to know that there are perhaps over 50 different oil compilations, all wearing the "Mobil-1" moniker.

There IS a Mobil-1 that has the ZDDP levels recommended by Lotus in 1990, but you won't likely see it on your speedy-mart shelves! I suppose (rather) the safer recommendation would be to grab the HIGH MILEAGE (e.g., 15W-50) stuff instead of the common "SN" 10W-30 with its ZDDP of 700-800 ppm. (However, you "cats" might not like it, which is important if you live where emissions standards are strict.)

Decisions, decisions.... And so it goes.

[WB9MCW]

My best friend and my mechanic for all of his toys now uses only SCHAEFFERS in all of his engines - I now have this in my ZR-1 - not cheap @ $10.50 a quart but you get what you pay for. It is the only oil company that actually has real data sheets on their oils and they have the most zinc as well.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p110/HAMMERHATE/7000%20Racing%2020W50_zpsdzvehj34.jpg
This is the one in my ZR-1 now
http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme-7000-racing-oil.html

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p110/HAMMERHATE/7000%20Racing%2020W50%20DATA_zpszj7mdvzj.jpg
THE data sheet on this 7000 oil
http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/227-705-td.pdf

Just wondering how many of you use schaeffers oil in your bike...the oil test i went to tested all kinds of oil and yes amsoil did better than almost all of the other oils except schaeffers...i wouldnt recommend using anything other than those two brands...all the rest were just awfull! Tell me what you think
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/372172-went-to-oil-test-schaeffer-s-oil-blew-them-all-away.html

SCHAEFFER vs MAJOR BRANDS
https://youtu.be/lrmSyyLuVB0

Schaeffer Oil Presentation
https://youtu.be/qj6wtgVV0xo

Google search for all You Tube vids on this oil company.
https://www.google.com/search?q=schaeffer%27s+oil+reviews&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=schaeffer%27s+oil+reviews&tbm=vid

[Hib Halverson]

My LT5 currently has Red Line 10W30 in it. If the oil drain interval comes due before I sell it, I'll switch to Gibbs Driven HR 10W30.

But...oil in general:

For best performance and protection you need an oil blended with a synthetic base stock, such as Red Line's ester base or Gibbs Driven's mPAO base. The Mobil 1 which is widely available in North America uses neither of those base stocks. It's not always easy to ascertain what base-stock with which an oil is blended so, when in doubt, contact the oil vendor and ask.

As for ZDDP, most engine oils sold for high-performance street or street-track have adequate extreme pressure additive packages. That said, the whole ZDDP "thing" with the LT5 is just a myth. Yeah, the LT5 has flat tappets but the load at the lifter/lobe interface is significant lower in the LT5 because of its OHC valve train. OHV valve trains with flat tappets is where you see problems with performance cams, high spring pressure and low (less than 800 PPM phosphorous) levels of ZDDP.

Drain intervals? If you're using good oil, use the oil life moniter but change the filter at 50% and, of course, 0%/ In any event, with ZR-1s which see low annual mileage, change the oil every year or so regardless of mileage.

[Billy Mild]

I am running Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage.

If you want good oil with a lot of ZDDP, run Brad Penn.

[SAM/CH ZR-1]

What do you guys think about the Kendall GT-1 High Performance 20W50 Motor Oil with Liquid Titanium? It's not a synthetic oil but has also alot of zinc.

[Paul Workman]

For what it's worth...a comparison (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf).

Considering the speed, and length of the cam chains, durability, size of the cam sprokets, etc, I don't think ZDDP is a "moot" consideration for the LT5 simply because of the lesser spring tensions. You decide....

[WB9MCW]

Too bad Schaeffer 7000 was not in that test - would have been interesting to see how it did against all the rest of 'em

[We Gone]

I just buy ZDDP at Summit and add it to the oil.

[Hib Halverson]

For what it's worth...a comparison (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf).

Considering the speed, and length of the cam chains, durability, size of the cam sprokets, etc, I don't think ZDDP is a "moot" consideration for the LT5 simply because of the lesser spring tensions. You decide....

Ok. I'll bite, but educate me by answering this question, then I can decide.

How is an extreme pressure additive (ZDDP) intended to lubricate parts under high pressure and which "slide" or "rub" across each other a necessity for the durability of a rollerized cam chain?

Also, someone mentioned above that they buy a ZDDP additive and put it in the oil. If you feel urge to add more ZDDP in that manner, be very careful with that. Measure the amount of that stuff accurately such that your PPM phosphorous doesn't get much over 1400-1600 because, a lot of ZDDP in the oil over a long period actually can cause "chemical wear" of the cam lobes.

Also, high levels of ZDDP in the oil can shorten catylitic converter life, too.

Keep in mind that the folks who market that stuff will gladly sell you as much as you want, but they're not going to buy you new cams or new cats if you use too much of it.

[XfireZ51]

Does anyone have information regarding if re-grinds v stock cams have greater or lesser propensity to this type of damage?

[A26B]

XFireZ51: Does anyone have information regarding if re-grinds v stock cams have greater or lesser propensity to this type of damage?

The base circle must be reduced in diameter to allow for increase of lift and duration.
Other factors aside, such as differences in hardness & proper grinding, the ramp angle for reground camshafts, from base circle to lift is greater which in itself increases the pressure between the lifter and cam lobe on a reground camshaft.

[WB9MCW]

I found this interesting info on it all

http://www.mbca.org/sites/default/files/oils_for_classic_british_cars.pdf

[Billy Mild]

Does anyone run Brad Penn Racing oil?

http://www.penngrade1.com/products/racing-oils.aspx

I used to use this stuff in my old 944 that required high ZDDP.

[WB9MCW]

We have seen the question arise on a number of chat rooms and websites about the amount of Zinc and Phosphorus in our Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils. The questions seem to have arose after a number of people individually sent samples of our products to Blackstone Lab(s) for analysis. The Blackstone report showed a lower Zinc and Phosphorus additive concentration level then our established in house specifications and laboratory results from our ISO 9001:2008 quality control lab proved.

http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx

[WB9MCW]

This is interesting as well.

In 1997, American Refining Group, Inc. (ARG), a privately held energy company headquartered in Philadelphia, PA, purchased the Kendall/Amalie refinery located in Bradford, PA, from Witco Corporation. As a result of the sale by Witco, of the Kendall® and Amalie® brands to a third party, a new name was given to the products produced at the site: Brad Penn® Premium Pennsylvania Grade Lubricants. Founded in 1881 at the height of the domestic oil boom, the Bradford refinery is the only refinery processing 100% Pennsylvania Grade crude oil. It is also the oldest continuously operated lube oil refinery in the world. Due to the consistency of our feedstocks, the quality of our products can be traced from the wellhead to the finished packaged product. ARG's refinery and blending and packaging operations are ISO 9001:2000 certified. The Bradford refinery was the first in the United States to carry the ISO 9002 certification.

[Okiedoke]

The definitive Marc Haibeck's article on this subject says correct ZDDP is in Mobil 1 High Mileage or Amsoil - http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Modern%20Motor%20Oil%20and%20the%20LT5%20Engine.pd f -
"Most modern GM engines use roller valve lifters. They have short timing chains to drive a single camshaft or dry belts to drive multiple camshafts. The need for EP protection for these engines is decreasing. Japanese carmakers that like to use long metal timing chains are evaluating the effects of the future oil standard on their designs.
My concern is for the flat valve lifters, the camshafts, the timing chains and the sprockets in the LT5. I believe that the SM oil for new cars is not appropriate for the LT5. The Mobil 1 Oil Company has also recognized the needs of flat lifter engines with respect to their products. They recommend their reformulated 15W-50 productvi for engines with high-tension valve springs. I think that 15W-50 oil is too high in viscosity for the LT5. The Mobil 1 High mileage products are also acceptable for the LT5 engine.

The Amsoil Company has addressed this issue with a product that is specifically designed for engines with flat valve lifters and high tension valve springs. It is formulated with high phosphorus and zinc protection. It meets the API SG specification that was used when the LT5 was designed. The product is named AMO 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection. It takes a two-pronged approach, higher EP additives and superior film strength due to the higher viscosity.
AmsoilAMOZDDPspecifications: Phosphorus 1265 ppm
Zinc 1378 ppm
Comment: Recommended for the LT5 engine. Also for other engines with high tension valve springs.

Marc's article says Mobil 1 High Mileage products are acceptable but doesn't specify the grade. Does anyone know if he recommends 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40? It seems the majority of Mobil 1 high Mileage users here are going with 10w30. How much will the higher phosphorus affect passing smog in states such as California?

Thanks,
Harry

[Gunny]

... Does anyone know if he recommends 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40? ...

10W40 high mileage

Note that Mobil currently has a rebate promo that ends on May 31. $12 rebate with purchase of 5 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic (can be individual qts or the 5 qt jug). Also note that Wally World rolled the prices back on Mobil 1 Synthetic to $22.88 making the final cost 10.88 per 5 qt jug or just over $2 per qt. I think you can get 2 rebates per household.

[RussMcB]

Thanks, Gunny.

I think these links will get the rebate form:

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/up-to-15-dollars-off-with-mobil-1-and-mobil-super

https://apfco.net/secure/R8235W/Home/Intro

[Hog]

Marc's article says Mobil 1 High Mileage products are acceptable but doesn't specify the grade. Does anyone know if he recommends 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40? It seems the majority of Mobil 1 high Mileage users here are going with 10w30. How much will the higher phosphorus affect passing smog in states such as California?

Thanks,
Harry
The higher ZDDP and Phosphorous level in engine oil wont affect your emissions results directly, but can contaminate your catalytic converter and keep if from catalyzing emissions correctly. As your catalytic converters function degrades, you will eventually fail any emissions test which analyzes the gasses coming out of the tailpipe.

[edram454]

I use them mobil 1 10w40 high mileage. it has high zddp, great deal at walmart as far as price, and zero smoke from lack of exhaust valve... brain cramp... that the 90's dont have. My car loves it.

ed ramos #3028

[Mystic ZR-1]

Why is 10w40 so popular?
GM said 10w30.
Ya know, they're really smarter than we give
them credit for... :)

[rush91]

Why is 10w40 so popular?
GM said 10w30.
Ya know, they're really smarter than we give
them credit for... :)

Good question, one I have wondered as well. The way I understand, GM started using Mobil 5W-30 on 1993 cars and beyond. When I bought my '91, I had no idea what was in it. After most here use 10W-40 Amsoil, I went same route. High Zinc, has all the GM ratings, etc.......Since then, I have noticed a smoother idle, and no " chain rattle" at all. That maybe due to the new AC Delco PF970C oil filter as well. But I hope it will run cooler some what in the summer with the 10W-40 as well. I maybe totally wrong with my conclusion, time will tell.
But also, I would think motor oils now are way better than in the early 90s. But this is an endless conversation, I think it boils down to preference, easy of availabilty, price as well.

[BigJohn]

Why is 10w40 so popular?
GM said 10w30.
Ya know, they're really smarter than we give
them credit for... :)

15w50

:neutral:

[BigIke]

M1 diesel oil... 1200 ppm zinc

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[SAM/CH ZR-1]

At the moment I do test the Valvoline VR1 Racing 10w-60 Premium Synthetic Blend Engine Oil. It also has zinc.

[Billy Mild]

At the moment I do test the Valvoline VR1 Racing 10w-60 Premium Synthetic Blend Engine Oil. It also has zinc.

Make sure to change this often. The racing oil has little to no detergents.

[BigIke]

I'm thinking about switching to Quaker State ultra, it has the highest wear protection by far

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[Andreas]

I have a lot of Kendall GT1 10W30 API SL is there any problem to use this in my 90 ZR1?

[Paul Workman]

I have a lot of Kendall GT1 10W30 API SL is there any problem to use this in my 90 ZR1?

Some helpful info:

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Modern%20Motor%20Oil%20and%20the%20LT5%20Engine.pd f

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/

[Billy Mild]

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=AMOQT-EA

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120770-Mileage-10W-30-Motor/dp/B00JTUBPC4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471309817&sr=8-1&keywords=Mobil+1+10w-30+high+mileage

What is the thoughts of running 10w-40 in the Corvette vs. the normal 10w-30? I am worried that the thicker oil will cause issues down the road such as oil pressure or seals busting out? Am I just paranoid or what?

[BigJohn]

It should not increase oil pressure or blow out seals!

[george1945]

Why such heavy oil.Engines are built with oil film thickness in mind.Racing engines are loose and run heavy weight oils. Ever seen the damage from heavy oil on main bearings and rod bearings.
?

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[CamP]

An excellent oil, with plenty of Phosphorus and Zinc for our cars' flat tappets, is Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40. It's only $5.50 a quart.

It's very popular among motorcycle racers with flat tappet engines. DOHC 4-stroke motorcycle engines have very similar valve train architecture to the LT5 so the oil requirements are essentially the same.

[XfireZ51]

Where do u buy any oil for &5.50 a gallon?

[CamP]

Where do u buy any oil for &5.50 a gallon?

Sorry, that's the quart price. It's $22 a gallon at Wally World.

Anyway, now that you can't buy SG/SH rated Mobil 1 10w30, the Rotella T6 is the best low cost option for a light viscosity full synthetic with lots of Zinc and Phosphorus.

[spork2367]

New Royal Purple HPS looks promising.

[CamP]

New Royal Purple HPS looks promising.

Someone on bob's performed a new oil analysis and it does have a lot of zinc and phosphorus.

"All samples were taken from brand new, thoroughly shaken bottles of oil. And all tests were performed at ALS Tribology, formerly Staveley Labs, in Sparks, Nevada.

Royal Purple 10W30 HPS (High Performance Street)
Silicon = 7 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = <5 ppm (detergent/dispersant)
Magnesium = 46 ppm (detergent/dispersant)
Calcium = 3626 ppm (detergent/dispersant)
Barium = <1 ppm (detergent/dispersant)
Total detergent/dispersant = 3676 ppm
Zinc = 1774 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 1347 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 189 ppm (anti-wear)
Total anti-wear = 3310 ppm
Potassium = 11 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
Sodium = 2 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
TBN = 10.2 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9. And in use, this becomes depleted over time as mileage accumulates)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.3 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness."

[CamP]

Here's a VOA of Shell Rotella T6 for folks that are interested in this kind of stuff.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/mklinuxdude/VOA/e64704-001.gif

[Crusin]

I used Mobil High Mileage for the acidic content, but now use Amsoil Z Rod which is more acidic. Only problem using this high of acidic content it is hard on the Cats which will be required to be changed by 50.000 miles. Since I only have 30,000 now no worries.

[Corbusa]

What about Gibbs / driven oil ?? heres a vid
www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5vhXFinQv8

[jss06c6]

Royal Purple 10W 30..

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[Norwegianmopar]

Royal Purple 10w 40.

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[Regimof3]

Mobil 1 10w30

[lfalzarano]

Amsoil 10W40


Lou

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Liqui Moly 2043 MoS2 Anti-Friction 10W-40


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[tomcat]

Liqui Moly 5W-30W BMW760LI
Amsoil 10W-40W ZR1

Manfred E.....
91 #906

[onethumb]

Given the Euro design roots, I would think that Motul would be a good choice, but I do not see it on here :)

[lfalzarano]

Use the Amsoil 10W-40 ZR-1


Lou

[spork2367]

Given the Euro design roots, I would think that Motul would be a good choice, but I do not see it on here :)

You really think because an engine was designed on paper in one region, that somehow, an oil produced in a vaguely similar region would somehow be a good choice just because of their geographical proximity?....

I don't think oil works that way. Nor do I think engineers in England in any way formulated engines to be specifically compatible with French oil...

[Crusin]

I use Amsoil /Z Rod in my 1990 ZR-1. Higher in Zinc content which is better for flat lifters in LT 5 engine.

[Hib Halverson]

Given the Euro design roots, I would think that Motul would be a good choice, but I do not see it on here :)

There are better choices refined right here in the U.S.:fahne:

Among them is Driven Racing Oil's LS30 (5W30) and DT40 (5W40) both use an mPAO base which comes, strangely, from Exxon-Mobil but it not used in the current N.A. formulation of Mobil 1.

[JMO343]

Amsoil 10W-40 in my ZR1. Just got completely service by Marc.


John
1990 #2331

[efnfast]

Fresh back from the gathering. Marc does not recommend Mobil 1. Not sure If I missed something there, didn't ask any questions.

[Corbusa]

HUMMMMM ok thanks because that was just what I bought and was getting ready to change it..

[efnfast]

Factory used it, but I believe Marc said it really doesn't have the right amount of ZDDP.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Factory used it, but I believe said it really doesn't have the right amount of ZDDP.


Even though I don’t use it due to lack of availability here in Japan, I’m curious to know specifics of why Mobil 1 not recommended. I just looked at the latest product guide for Mobil 1 and see 15W-50 with 1200 ppm phosphorus and 1300 ppm zinc.

On another note, I have been using their 20W-50 V-Twin oil for the Harley (which is available here on military base). I had no iidea until now that this oil has 1600 ppm phosphorus and 1750 ppm zinc. Not to be confused with anything related to our Zs. I just had no idea it was so high for the V Twins.





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[Corbusa]

Can it be bought separately? I mean the additive. or just add some duralube etc? , hell 10 quarts of slick50 should do it..lol

[Vette73]

How about the Mobil one synthetic with the gold cap? I actually use high mileage full synthetic 10-30 in my Z....

[efnfast]

Craig, Marc also does not recommend 15-50 in our cars. I'm speaking for Marc, and that's a dangerous thing to do.

[Gunny]

So ... this is largely from memory & details might not be correct, but the bottom line seems to be that Mobil 1 "quietly" alters the amounts of zinc et al from time to time. I periodically search for Mobil 1's current chart of their various grades of oil, the percentages of zinc, etc. etc. and discovered that, while some grades remain essentially the same, other grades change.

At one time (10+ years ago?) Mobil 1 10W40 "apparently had" the minimum amount of ZDDP present, then it was "reduced" - dates & amounts I can't remember. Then, lo & behold, M1 High Mileage 10W40 "apparently had" the minimum amount - so I bought a bunch of jugs from WalMart on the cheap plus got the Mobil 1 rebate resulting in a net cost of $12 per jug - not too shabby.

Not long after that (2-3 years maybe) I saw the updated Mobil 1 oil chart and none of the 10W40 had the required amounts of ZDDP. WTF? Does the oil I bought earlier have it or not? What kind of game is Mobil 1 playing?

I live in the largest agricultural county in Georgia & personally know many of the farmers, one of whom always has Amsoil 10W40 available to use on his many diesel tractors ... since he buys in bulk and lets me have it at cost, it's not too bad - not as inexpensive as M1, but certainly affordable.

And, then there are the opposing views by some that our engines don't really require so much of this & that, as long as you are using a really high quality grade of oil. Sometimes, it seems like I'm listening to a bunch of Washington politicians discussing the country's economy <rant off>. I tend to trust the wisdom of Marc.

laugh of the day - one naysayer recommended to me that using oil with the lower amounts of ZDDP would not be harmful to my engine as long as I didn't track the car PLUS it would increase the life of my cats. True, I don't track my car but I'm not known for driving at "Driving Miss Daisy" RPM levels either ... cats? what cats?

Anyway, if challenged on any of the above "facts" based on a fading memory, I will likely deny all knowledge & plausibility. The entire subject is both confusing & a bit cloudy - if in doubt on what to put in your engine, take Marc's advice.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, Marc also does not recommend 15-50 in our cars. I'm speaking for Marc, and that's a dangerous thing to do.



Okay, thanks Steve! I know Marc backs up his findings as a trusted and valued source.


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[spork2367]

Even though I don’t use it due to lack of availability here in Japan, I’m curious to know specifics of why Mobil 1 not recommended. I just looked at the latest product guide for Mobil 1 and see 15W-50 with 1200 ppm phosphorus and 1300 ppm zinc.

15W-50 is exempt from the regulations that cover lesser weight oils and can contain higher zddp. (40 and above is technically exempt)

We had a good discussion on it over here.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30261

[HAWAIIZR-1]

15W-50 is exempt from the regulations that cover lesser weight oils and can contain higher zddp. (40 and above is technically exempt)



We had a good discussion on it over here.



http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30261


Thanks! I remember seeing that while having some popcorn....LOL. I have been using and loving Liqui Moly 2043 MoS2 Anti-Friction 10W-40 since last year. No more chain rattle at startup and the motor runs very smooth. I’m also using Liqui Moly oil in the Mercedes, Audi, and soon the Harley. I chose it after the recommendation from their Application Engineer that knew all about our LT5. I love their products so far and it ships free to me from Amazon.




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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Ahhh, Spring!

Flowers blooming.

Baseball. (maybe not)

Love.

And of course, the perennial oil decision.

Mobil 1 Last year.

Brad Penn 10W 40 Racing Green Oil again this year.
Still 1400 phosphorous and 1500 Zinc.

Now Mobil one black filter, or an original no barcode Delco......................
Hmmm......................

Happy Spring!
:cheers:
Marty

[Mystic ZR-1]

Ahhh, Spring!

Hmmm......................

Happy Spring!
:cheers:
Marty

Bosch 3401
Peel off the sticker and polish it up with
some cleaner/wax!

[Matt B]

Thanks! I remember seeing that while having some popcorn....LOL. I have been using and loving Liqui Moly 2043 MoS2 Anti-Friction 10W-40 since last year. No more chain rattle at startup and the motor runs very smooth. I??[emoji769]m also using Liqui Moly oil in the Mercedes, Audi, and soon the Harley. I chose it after the recommendation from their Application Engineer that knew all about our LT5. I love their products so far and it ships free to me from Amazon.




Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)I'm also using that LM oil. Strange color, but great oil. The LT-5 runs great with it (just bought it particularly for that car) and will use it in my 95 Audi S6 V8 as well!
Made in Germany :)

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[spork2367]

Ahhh, Spring!

Flowers blooming.

Baseball. (maybe not)

Love.

And of course, the perennial oil decision.

Mobil 1 Last year.

Brad Penn 10W 40 Racing Green Oil again this year.
Still 1400 phosphorous and 1500 Zinc.

Now Mobil one black filter, or an original no barcode Delco......................
Hmmm......................

Happy Spring!
:cheers:
Marty

Brad Penn here as well.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I'm also using that LM oil. Strange color, but great oil. The LT-5 runs great with it (just bought it particularly for that car) and will use it in my 95 Audi S6 V8 as well!
Made in Germany :)

Sent from my J9110 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)


Nice to see someone else that knows about LM. Yes Sir, I use their products in my Mercedes and Audi too! I have driven on the Autobahn and German engineering is no joke; their oil is good enough for me. 🤙🏼



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[dandt67]

Brad Penn here also

[Young1]

Brad Penn 10w30. Black AC PF970C

[Crusin]

Having a ZR-1 I am aware the engine requires more zinc content and was informed Amsoil Z Rod 10/30 was the best oil for the LT 1.
Thanks for the replies.

[mlipmd]

And how about Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula with the high levels of ZDDP recommended by the gurus? Works great.

[spork2367]

And how about Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula with the high levels of ZDDP recommended by the gurus? Works great.

WAY outside of recommended viscosity range. Made for modern cars with very different requirements.

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/files/mobil-1-product-guide-rev-31.pdf

[mlipmd]

Don't necessarily agree with that, many of the gurus recommend 10W-40 or 15W-50, the 0W has little effect, just makes it easier to start or use at lower temps.
And it's good enough for a Porsche or Audi A4 but not a 'Vette?

[spork2367]

Don't necessarily agree with that, many of the gurus recommend 10W-40 or 15W-50, the 0W has little effect, just makes it easier to start or use at lower temps.
And it's good enough for a Porsche or Audi A4 but not a 'Vette?

You don't have to agree with me but any internal combustion engine design engineer worth having would disagree with you. I know, I work in a company that designs and builds piston engines.

Considering startup protection is critically important to engines, this plays a big part in viscosity selection. It also plays a big part in combination with internal clearances of the engine.

While the designation 10W-30 means that the engine oil will flow like a straight 10 weight oil at low temperatures (hence the "w" for winter), the second number doesn't mean the viscosity increases as the temperature increases. It essentially means it offers the same protection as a straight 30 weight at 212 degrees F plus.

The lower overall viscosity can lead to low oil pressure, often between bearing surfaces, not necessarily on your relatively inaccurate dash gauge. In an engine with a complex oil pressure driven chain tensioner, flat tappet cam and machined aluminum cam journals, that's not a risk I would take. Especially considering most aren't driving their car in the winter where extremely low startup temps would be a problem.

The LT-5 engine clearances were not built around 0W-40 engine oil. Your comparison to a Porsche is irrelevant. Porsche what? Run 0W-40 in an air cooled 911 or 914 and see how long your engine lasts...

[mlipmd]

Read through this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-tech-performance/3976668-5w30-vs-0w40.html
And the higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorus are what are reccomended by MH and others for the LT5 and that's what this oil contains, same as the beloved Amsoil but way less expensive. You pay your money and make your choice, and it in reality it probably makes very little difference in the end.
And for what it's worth, I have no problem with low oil pressure, on startup or at any other time.

[spork2367]

Read through this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-tech-performance/3976668-5w30-vs-0w40.html
And the higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorus are what are reccomended by MH and others for the LT5 and that's what this oil contains, same as the beloved Amsoil but way less expensive. You pay your money and make your choice, and it in reality it probably makes very little difference in the end.
And for what it's worth, I have no problem with low oil pressure, on startup or at any other time.

The zinc content alone is not the be all end all. On top of that, there are plenty of options that have the ZDDP and meet the correct viscosity requirements. If saving 30-50 bucks a year on oil is making or breaking your budget, high performance cars may not be for you.

Like I said in my earlier post, your oil pressure gauge isn't going to tell you if you have insufficient oil pressure at your cam journals or main bearings. It's a measure of overall system pressure, and a crude measure at that.

There are lots of options that aren't much more than the Mobil 1 FS that are the correct viscosity for the engine. Unless you're looking at the Kinematic Viscosities and VI, the viscosity designator on the bottle can be very misleading.

If you're in Crawfordville Florida, per your info, you are never going to have a cold enough starting condition to require a 0W oil. Your winter average low is 50 degrees. But it's your engine, run what you want.

[viper107]

so what is it, 10w40 or 10w30, i run a penn green oil in mine at 10w40- what weight do you suggest

[CamP]

Viscosity really depends on a particular engine's bearing tolerances. Some are tighter than others, and produce higher pressure at hot idle. Those engines can sometimes use 0w and 5w weight oils. If you see over 40psi at hot idle, you can lighten the viscosity a bit.

Loose engines with lower hot idle pressure can use heavier oils.

[george1945]

New engines have extremely tight tolerances. The LT-5 engines are sloppy by comparison. They also did not have to contend with fuel economy standards the newer engines are required to meet. Thinner oils were a means to that end.

[mlipmd]

Spork -"If saving 30-50 bucks a year on oil is making or breaking your budget, high performance cars may not be for you." Did trying to demean me make you feel better?

There is very little difference in 0W, 5W, and 10W in performance, and Mobil 1 is available near me while Amsoil 10W-40 is not. It's not the $10-20 difference in price that counts.
Other than pontificating about various "points" of Kinematic Viscosities and VI, can you give any objective evidence of lower pressures at cam journals and bearings, how you measure that, and the damage that is happening to the engine because of that? And your engine oil gauge is what, useless? Also, the viscosity designator on the bottle can be misleading? Then how do you buy any oil then if you can't rely on the manufacturer's designation?
And you are wrong about the cold winter temps down here, I don't know where you get your info from - it is very often in the 30s and frequently in the high 20s here in the winter.

This discussion is becoming the same as what tire pressure you run, that which is on the door sticker, or 1-2 lbs. higher or lower than what is written there to suit your driving preference.

[george1945]

I use the Amsoil. Z-rod formula.Buy it online and it is shipped to my door.

[spork2367]

Spork -"If saving 30-50 bucks a year on oil is making or breaking your budget, high performance cars may not be for you." Did trying to demean me make you feel better?

There is very little difference in 0W, 5W, and 10W in performance, and Mobil 1 is available near me while Amsoil 10W-40 is not. It's not the $10-20 difference in price that counts.
Other than pontificating about various "points" of Kinematic Viscosities and VI, can you give any objective evidence of lower pressures at cam journals and bearings, how you measure that, and the damage that is happening to the engine because of that? And your engine oil gauge is what, useless? Also, the viscosity designator on the bottle can be misleading? Then how do you buy any oil then if you can't rely on the manufacturer's designation?
And you are wrong about the cold winter temps down here, I don't know where you get your info from - it is very often in the 30s and frequently in the high 20s here in the winter.

This discussion is becoming the same as what tire pressure you run, that which is on the door sticker, or 1-2 lbs. higher or lower than what is written there to suit your driving preference.

So your claim is that the ZDDP content that was called out 32 years ago is critically important, but using a viscosity that wasn't even sold in the US until 2010 is irrelevant...okay. It wasn't even created in Europe to begin with, it was created in Japan (as 0W16) for fuel economy in small displacement engines in a country where they stop driving most cars between 50,000 and 80,000 miles. As stated by someone else earlier, the use of this oil was driven by fuel economy and emissions, not engine life.

No modern engine needs 0w oil to start in cold weather regardless of temperature. It's used to decrease emissions in the time it takes the engine to reach operating temperature. The claim that it "reaches critical components faster" is more marketing bullsh*t to make you feel good than anything.

I'm sure the entire of the automotive industry experts and all the design engineers I work with in a company that has designed and built flat tappet air cooled aviation engines for 93 years are wrong and you have it figured out.

[mlipmd]

I don't want to belabor this, but I have to respond to you -

Is it OK that MH recommends Amsoil 10W-40 because of the ZDDP levels while that is different than GM saying Mobil1 5W-30 is what's needed? Does he know more than the engineers who designed this motor, or is that his personal opinion? Why does he say a "heavier" weight oil with higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorous is so much better than what the factory specifies? If it was so beneficially great, then why wouldn't the factory switch to this recommendation too?
All the 0W-40 designation means is that that oil is suited to a wider variety of temp extremes than a 10W-30, and not that it matters, but where I live it varies between 30 and 100 at different times of the year and any engine oil on here will also function adequately in those extremes.
You are skirting around the questions I asked you and are avoiding the issue because you cannot answer me. And you also cannot show me any evidence of higher wear or damage to any part of the engine from using any of these oils. I expect next you'll say that compression testing is only an "estimate" of what's happening inside the cylinders.
And explain how a lower weight oil (0W) decreases emissions until the engine warms up. Then tell me where I said anything close to "The claim that it "reaches critical components faster" is more marketing bullsh*t to make you feel good than anything."

Then you said "I'm sure the entire of the automotive industry experts and all the design engineers I work with in a company that has designed and built flat tappet air cooled aviation engines for 93 years are wrong and you have it figured out. "
No, I have not figured it out, but maybe MH or the other gurus who work on these cars have, and YOU are wrong. Oh no, that's inconceivable. Air cooled aviation engines and liquid cooled automotive engines are the same thing, same requirements? That's news.
And you do realize that things do change over the years, right, that advances are made? What was originally recommended 32 years ago may not be as good as what's available now?
So I'm done here now, have at it, and if you're going to make another pronouncement, back it up with some real objective evidence. We all want to learn on here.
The oil you use is just as much a personal preference as the tire pressure you want, as I said. All the modern oils perform pretty much the same and if you change them on schedule, you'll be just fine no matter your choice. :cheers:

[spork2367]

Is it OK that MH recommends Amsoil 10W-40 because of the ZDDP levels while that is different than GM saying Mobil1 10W-30 is what's needed? Does he know more than the engineers who designed this motor, or is that his personal opinion? Why does he say a "heavier" weight oil with higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorous is so much better than what the factory specifies? If it was so beneficially great, then why wouldn't the factory switch to this recommendation too?
There is not an equal difference between a 0W-40 and a 10W-30 vs a 10W-40 and a 10W-30. The factory picked a balance to cover the widest range of driving conditions, not the best for everyone. 0W-40 is in NO WAY offering any level of protection beyond a 10W-30 (weight wise). I run 10W-40 due to my operating parameters, but the Brad Penn 10W-30 would be fine.

All the 0W-40 designation means is that that oil is suited to a wider variety of temp extremes than a 10W-30
False. Several people in here have clarified that 0W oil was created exclusively for lower emissions and better fuel economy during the warm-up period and short driving done in small commuter cars. That?s it. Anything stated beyond that is marketing hype. It wasn?t created for ?cold weather? it was created to decrease the viscosity in ALL weather.

I expect next you'll say that compression testing is only an "estimate" of what's happening inside the cylinders.
It is only an estimate. It doesn?t account for combustion efficiency, flame propagation, hot spots, detonation, etc.

And explain how a lower weight oil (0W) decreases emissions until the engine warms up.
You have less parasitic loss while the oil is warming up and therefor are making more power with less fuel.

Air cooled aviation engines and liquid cooled automotive engines are the same thing, same requirements? That's news.
They are definitively not the same which I why I made the earlier comment about your generic Porsche reference. Nor did I say the requirements were the same. The principles of oil selection however are the same.

And you do realize that things do change over the years, right, that advances are made? What was originally recommended 32 years ago may not be as good as what's available now?
And sometimes they change for the worse. Which is why we have less zinc and phosphorus due to catalytic converters and emissions. It?s also why we have 0W oil. While oil formulations have gotten better, every change was not for the benefit of the car owner. Government regulations rarely benefit individuals.

The oil you use is just as much a personal preference as the tire pressure you want, as I said. All the modern oils perform pretty much the same and if you change them on schedule, you'll be just fine no matter your choice
Pick the wrong tire pressure and you?ll ruin tires too. If you?re putting around the block or cruising on the highway, you?re not going to kill the engine with 0W oil. It just won?t be the best choice for minimizing wear in the engine. All modern engine oils do not perform "pretty much the same."

There is a distinct difference between the opinion of a layman like yourself and the opinion of someone who deals with these things for a living. Be it Marc Haibeck, or myself. Nothing personal, just the facts.

[mlipmd]

Show me where I said 0W-40 is offering any level of protection beyond a 10W-30. I never said that or implied that. I use that oil for the higher levels of ZDDP, get it? And that's what I said.
0W is not the best choice for minimizing wear? Tell us all what is the best choice, in your mind, in your opinion, as the "expert" on here.
You still did not answer any of my questions and go out of your way to avoid them.
Show me evidence of any detriment to using Mobil1 0W-40 (which I use for the higher ZDDP levels only) over anything else mentioned on here. You can't. Even something simple like tiny metallic flakes on a magnetic oil drain plug, metal in the filter element, lower compression ratios, higher amounts of metal in an oil analysis, valve ticking or wear. You can't. And show me one study proving your claim that 0W wt. oil decreases emissions and gives better fuel while the oil warms up. If that were truly the case, then by now the govt. would insist on all vehicles use that.
You call me a layman, do you have any idea who I am or what I do/did, what research I have done on oils, who else I have read and gotten valid opinions from? If you really do deal with these things, in what capacity, and why can't you back up your claims with any facts. Nothing personal, just the facts.

[spork2367]

Show me where I said 0W-40 is offering any level of protection beyond a 10W-30. I never said that or implied that. I use that oil for the higher levels of ZDDP, get it? And that's what I said.
0W is not the best choice for minimizing wear? Tell us all what is the best choice, in your mind, in your opinion, as the "expert" on here.
You still did not answer any of my questions and go out of your way to avoid them.
Show me evidence of any detriment to using Mobil1 0W-40 (which I use for the higher ZDDP levels only) over anything else mentioned on here. You can't. Even something simple like tiny metallic flakes on a magnetic oil drain plug, metal in the filter element, lower compression ratios, higher amounts of metal in an oil analysis, valve ticking or wear. You can't. And show me one study proving your claim that 0W wt. oil decreases emissions and gives better fuel while the oil warms up. If that were truly the case, then by now the govt. would insist on all vehicles use that.
You call me a layman, do you have any idea who I am or what I do/did, what research I have done on oils, who else I have read and gotten valid opinions from? If you really do deal with these things, in what capacity, and why can't you back up your claims with any facts. Nothing personal, just the facts.

You've got it all figured out. Run whatever makes you feel good.

[Dynomite]

Amsoil 10W-40 in all LT5s and Mobile-1 10W-30 in all L98s :) :cheers:

Mobile-1 M1-207 oil filters on LT5s and Mobile-1 M1-111 Oil Filters on L98s :thumbsup:

[mlipmd]

It's about time you showed up. Where you been?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

It's about time you showed up. Where you been?



Cliff was enjoying the entertainment with some buttered popcorn?..LOL.


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[mlipmd]

:thumbsup::cheers:

[tnse]

Marc Haibeck?s latest (Jan 2017) recommendation on what to use for the 1990s LT5 can be found on the Haibeck Automotive Technology website:

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Modern%20Motor%20Oil%20and%20the%20LT5%20Engine.pd f

[george1945]

I currently use the Z-rod oil in 10w-40. I fail to find the AMO label on the Amsoil web site.

[tnse]

I currently use the Z-rod oil in 10w-40. I fail to find the AMO label on the Amsoil web site.

Product code : AMOQT-EA

https://www.amsoil.com/p/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/

[george1945]

Thanks. I finally got it figured out that it was product code Amsoil is remiss on their labeling and search criteria.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Just a point of interest.

On the amsoil site, I entered my info for a 93 Chevrolet Corvette 32 valve.

Their site did not suggest the 10-40 Z rod oil, but rather three others.

Do they know something................................

Again, just a point of interest.
:cheers:
Marty

[JT ZR-Won]

Product code : AMOQT-EA

https://www.amsoil.com/p/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/

I just ordered this a few days ago :thumbsup:

Jay

[Erik]

As a temporary measure to get an oil change in, I picked up two jugs of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 yesterday. A nice 40 weight synthetic oil, as Marc recommended, plus 1100ppm of zinc, both speced and confirmed in independent testing.


The 0W part doesn?t really mean much now, but is a nice extra when I?m trying to get those last late November/early December drives in, or those monthly winter time starts.

Bonus, it was only $27 Can for a 5 quart jug.

[mlipmd]

Erik, I'm also using that 0W-40 European formula and my Z loves it, despite all the flack I got when I first mentioned it on here.

[Erik]

Erik, I'm also using that 0W-40 European formula and my Z loves it, despite all the flack I got when I first mentioned it on here.

I can?t imagine why you?d get flack. It?s a very high quality modern oil, rated as Marc recommends (40), with the Zinc our engines require, with the bonus of being priced reasonably. Where is the crime in that?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I can?t imagine why you?d get flack. It?s a very high quality modern oil, rated as Marc recommends (40), with the Zinc our engines require, with the bonus of being priced reasonably. Where is the crime in that?

No crime, it is just that some owners feel that LT5s can only run on one brand/type of oil.