Vette-Lights

[efnfast]

Just wanted to give a shout out to Cole at Vette-Lights.com
I've installed his headlights, fog lights, and many of the interior lights.
He's been a great help and the lights have been great.
I would certainly consider this a good source for us.

[secondchance]

Just wanted to give a shout out to Cole at Vette-Lights.com
I've installed his headlights, fog lights, and many of the interior lights.
He's been a great help and the lights have been great.
I would certainly consider this a good source for us.

Lucky you, Steve! It was trial and error for me. Now I have a drawer full of LEDs I can't use or refuse to use.:cheers:

[Paul Workman]

Lucky you, Steve! It was trial and error for me. Now I have a drawer full of LEDs I can't use or refuse to use.:cheers:

I feel the pain, Yun. As a matter of fact, I used the conversion as a patial excuse to buy a test lab DC power supply and breadboard to check stuff out before putting them in the car (beta-testing), e.g., the side turn signal LED required a bridge rectifier and load resistors. But, in the end, I found the cost of that particular bulb conversion was prohibitive.

That said, if you want to, I have a couple spare rectifiers lying around. And, if you want, I'll build a pair of "kits" to insert into that bulb's wiring to allow an LED replacement. I'll even include the LED bulb, if you want.:dancing

This was the final design. And, the LED is quite a bit brighter than the stock bulb. Also, as an option, the gills can be festooned with LEDs to signal traffic along side of you as - wired into the stock turn signal.

[secondchance]

I feel the pain, Yun. As a matter of fact, I used the conversion as a patial excuse to buy a test lab DC power supply and breadboard to check stuff out before putting them in the car (beta-testing), e.g., the side turn signal LED required a bridge rectifier and load resistors. But, in the end, I found the cost of that particular bulb conversion was prohibitive.

That said, if you want to, I have a couple spare rectifiers lying around. And, if you want, I'll build a pair of "kits" to insert into that bulb's wiring to allow an LED replacement. I'll even include the LED bulb, if you want.:dancing

This was the final design. And, the LED is quite a bit brighter than the stock bulb. Also, as an option, the gills can be festooned with LEDs to signal traffic along side of you as - wired into the stock turn signal.

Paul,

Side marker you are talking about is small yellow piece? I gave up on it for now. If you could build me a kit for that light, I'll take it. Shoot me a message and let me know what I owe you.

Now, I am jumping into 200 amp high efficiency billet alternator. Like anything else, not as simple as just bolting it in. Wire upgrade, to fuse or not to fuse, fuse vs. fused link wire, so on and on...

Thanks.

[Paul Workman]

Paul,

Side marker you are talking about is small yellow piece? I gave up on it for now. If you could build me a kit for that light, I'll take it. Shoot me a message and let me know what I owe you.

Now, I am jumping into 200 amp high efficiency billet alternator. Like anything else, not as simple as just bolting it in. Wire upgrade, to fuse or not to fuse, fuse vs. fused link wire, so on and on...

Thanks.

Its the yellow side marker which doubles as a turn signal light - is the one I'm talking about. The price of the bulb and the rectifier...is why I left that one alone: IIRC $20+ in parts each to convert that silly side marker/blinker light! I'll build it/them, but you might conclude (like me) that $40+ to convert 2 bulbs to LEDs is "a bit" steep!

As for your 200A alternator:

It may not be as involved as you might think.

For instance, an AWG 6 gauge wire between the ALT and the battery may suffice. And, unless you intend to add some high power accessories (e.g., an aftermarket stereo), you may need not do anything with the fusible links.

C-Link (https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm)

[secondchance]

Its the yellow side marker which doubles as a turn signal light - is the one I'm talking about. The price of the bulb and the rectifier...is why I left that one alone: IIRC $20+ in parts each to convert that silly side marker/blinker light! I'll build it/them, but you might conclude (like me) that $40+ to convert 2 bulbs to LEDs is "a bit" steep!

As for your 200A alternator:

It may not be as involved as you might think.

For instance, an AWG 6 gauge wire between the ALT and the battery may suffice. And, unless you intend to add some high power accessories (e.g., an aftermarket stereo), you man need not do anything with the fusible links.

C-Link (https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm)

You mean excessive draw is what could over heat the wire and lack of such condition negates need for fusible link wire?

[Paul Workman]

You mean excessive draw is what could over heat the wire and lack of such condition negates need for fusible link wire?

Hi Yun!

If all you're doing is upgrading the size of the alternator, except for maybe doubling up the wire between the alternator and the battery, you won't have to do anything with the existing fusible links.

However, if you're adding something adding a substantial current load, then you may want to consider running a separate wire from whatever it is to the main buss (behind the battery) and install a fusible link to that wire.

[secondchance]

Hi Yun!

If all you're doing is upgrading the size of the alternator, except for maybe doubling up the wire between the alternator and the battery, you won't have to do anything with the existing fusible links.

However, if you're adding something adding a substantial current load, then you may want to consider running a separate wire from whatever it is to the main buss (behind the battery) and install a fusible link to that wire.

I’m not adding anything substantial. Maybe Spal fans this summer.
Thanks Paul!