90-91 vs 92-96 Instrument Clusters

[Ccmano]

Learned something new today. 90-91 instrument clusters are NOT interchangeable with 92-96 clusters. At least not the LCD module. Everything else worked fine.

The tach on my 90 cluster is way off, some of the lights are out and the oil pressure gauge is off. So I found a great deal on a newly rebuilt low mile 96 LT4 cluster. Did the swap today only to find out that the LCD display went wonky showing jibberish. My frist thought was the new cluster LCD was defective. I had always thought all years were interchangeable.

So I sent Brian Thompson at Batee.com an email with a photo of the new cluster jibberish. Much to my surprise and satisfaction I got immediate reply (that’s customer service). He informs me that the LCD’s are indeed NOT compatible. The “electrical protocol “ was changed between the two.

The good news is that I can swap the LCD modules (the old LCD is still excellent, although I may rebuild it anyway) and I’m good to go. The LDC modules are a simple plug in.
H

OLD Cluster

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250251666_f68e8837cd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i35pY7)


NEW Cluster

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250265096_e2a790ff64_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i35tXE)

[WVZR-1]

That's been I'd say 'common knowledge' for years!!! I'm surprised you actually didn't ask first or that you weren't aware.

Yes Bryan has excellent service!!!!!

I'd think it way more appropriate for someone to use a cluster that's actually correct!!!

[Ccmano]

That's been I'd say 'common knowledge' for years!!! I'm surprised you actually didn't ask first or that you weren't aware.

Yes Bryan has excellent service!!!!!

I'd think it way more appropriate for someone to use a cluster that's actually correct!!!

Are we having a bad morning? Did my post insult you somehow?

Common knowledge is a curious thing, it’s only common to those who actually know. I searched the forum here and over at Corvette forum, both the ZR-1 and regular tech forums and found nothing. Did find several posts claiming they were interchangeable. If you want to be helpful why don’t you find one where this is documented.

What I do with my car is my business not yours. On my 180k mile Z it hardly matters whether the cluster is “correct” or not. I happen to like the later one better.

The purpose of this post was to help others that might be looking at the same thing and to document what you consider “common knowledge”.

If you can’t say anything positive you might want to keep it to yourself.
H

[WVZR-1]

Are we having a bad morning? Did my post insult you somehow?

Common knowledge is a curious thing, it’s only common to those who actually know. I searched the forum here and over at Corvette forum, both the ZR-1 and regular tech forums and found nothing. Did find several posts claiming they were interchangeable. If you want to be helpful why don’t you find one where this is documented.

What I do with my car is my business not yours. On my 180k mile Z it hardly matters whether the cluster is “correct” or not. I happen to like the later one better.

The purpose of this post was to help others that might be looking at the same thing and to document what you consider “common knowledge”.

If you can’t say anything positive you might want to keep it to yourself.
H

My 'MORNING' is GREAT and I also have a 'RED CAP'!!! YOU?

Just one of many threads regarding 'clusters'

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24383&highlight=cluster

I've actually documented by PART# year/model of likely compatibility on for sure the CF and quite likely here also!! If you ain't concerned with 'warning light" orientation etc

In 2013 on the CF I mentioned these thoughts and that was from research and references from maybe '07 or so.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-general-discussion/3238496-who-s-installed-factory-8k-tach-cluster-in-base-c4.html#post1583417163

And I corrected 'Brian' to Bryan

Cluster information I'm sure should be more easily documented!

You are correct though - what you do with your car is YOUR business

*** I mentioned only being maybe more appropriate 'My thought'only!!!

I'm over this - ARE YOU?

[Ccmano]

I suspect we could go back and forth on this many times. We have both said our piece. I will leave it at that.
H

[Ccmano]

My 'MORNING' is GREAT and I also have a 'RED CAP'!!! YOU?

Just one of many threads regarding 'clusters'

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24383&highlight=cluster

I've actually documented by PART# year/model of likely compatibility on for sure the CF and quite likely here also!! If you ain't concerned with 'warning light" orientation etc

In 2013 on the CF I mentioned these thoughts and that was from research and references from maybe '07 or so.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-general-discussion/3238496-who-s-installed-factory-8k-tach-cluster-in-base-c4.html#post1583417163

And I corrected 'Brian' to Bryan

Cluster information I'm sure should be more easily documented!

You are correct though - what you do with your car is YOUR business

*** I mentioned only being maybe more appropriate 'My thought'only!!!

I'm over this - ARE YOU?


I tell you what... why don’t you provide me with all the cluster information you have, I will add it to what I have found and I will write an article for the Heart of the Beast Registry publication. I will also post it here and over on CF.

In that way we help the most owners of Z’s and C4’s in general.

What do you think?
H
:handshak:

[-=Jeff=-]

I am surprised your search came up empty. I know I have helped on CF with several wanted to swap the 90-91 to a 92-96.

Yes the LCD as you found is different. but you will also find that there are some Perimeter warning lights that are not correct..

Looking at your picture, what year cluster did you get? I am thinking the lower right warning light is not correct. I found when I had a 1996 cluster with my 91 dash I need to swap 2-3 Warning lights. I actually just came across that cluster recently with my wiring changes.

Speaking of Clusters, anybody know where I can get a new Cluster overlay made?

[Ccmano]

I am surprised your search came up empty. I know I have helped on CF with several wanted to swap the 90-91 to a 92-96.

Yes the LCD as you found is different. but you will also find that there are some Perimeter warning lights that are not correct..

Looking at your picture, what year cluster did you get? I am thinking the lower right warning light is not correct. I found when I had a 1996 cluster with my 91 dash I need to swap 2-3 Warning lights. I actually just came across that cluster recently with my wiring changes.

Speaking of Clusters, anybody know where I can get a new Cluster overlay made?

Thanks Jeff, this was the whole purpose of bringing the subject up. The more we discuss this I think an article and maybe a sticky is in order. The new cluster is from a 96 LT4. The light in the lower right corner is indeed not correct. On the 90 it’s “Door Ajar” on the 96 it’s “Brake Pressure”. That was next in the project, to see what the warning light differences were and if swapping the lights was even possible.
H
:cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

Thanks Jeff, this was the whole purpose of bringing the subject up. The more we discuss this I think an article and maybe a sticky is in order. The new cluster is from a 96 LT4. The light in the lower right corner is indeed not correct. On the 90 it’s “Door Ajar” on the 96 it’s “Brake Pressure”. That was next in the project, to see what the warning light differences were and if swapping the lights was even possible.
H
:cheers:

Yes it is.. Let me find my Cluster and get a picture.. the 6k and 8k are the same PCB with exception of the Tach Calibration

I need a new 8K Tach overlay then I will have a clean 94-96 8K cluster

EDIT.. how does the 96 cluster look in the car with the rest being yellow vs white?

[Ccmano]

Just compared the two. There are only two differences in the lights. As noted the “Brake Pressure“ in place of the “Door Ajar” on the 90 lower right corner. The other is “^ Shift” (third from the left) on the 90 is replaced by “Door Ajar” on the 96. I have my upshift function deactivated anyway so that’s not an issue. I may just live with the other. It’s only on when the door is open anyway. We’ll see.

The cluster itself looks great, to me anyway. I find the white on black much more legible. I don’t think it clashes, but that’s subjective. To me the later cluster is simply brighter and easier to read. More to come.
H
:cheers:

[WVZR-1]

It would seem unusual that a person would choose to only change a 'cluster' to something other than appropriate or stock.

Now if a person were to consider changing/could change H/L Switch and the actual DIC to match a later cluster then maybe something to consider. If you own an LT5/ZR-1 I don't see it being appropriate to replace a 'cluster' only to anything other than 'appropriate' for the year.


A Black/White 'blotch' in the middle of a Black/Orange dash configuration I'd think a difficult adjustment.

***The 'perimeter' filters/warning lights are very likely 'swap-able' I've never had a reason to want to but if you've a cluster apart to do LCD lens etc you're right there to check.

Many years ago '90+ cluster separate components could be purchased for a repair. There was a vendor with a web-presence that had illustrated images. I might have info on an older computer. I don't recall them having black/white later C4 but for sure '90 - '93.

[-=Jeff=-]

It would seem unusual that a person would choose to only change a 'cluster' to something other than appropriate or stock.

Now if a person were to consider changing/could change H/L Switch and the actual DIC to match a later cluster then maybe something to consider. If you own an LT5/ZR-1 I don't see it being appropriate to replace a 'cluster' only to anything other than 'appropriate' for the year.


A Black/White 'blotch' in the middle of a Black/Orange dash configuration I'd think a difficult adjustment.

***The 'perimeter' filters/warning lights are very likely 'swap-able' I've never had a reason to want to but if you've a cluster apart to do LCD lens etc you're right there to check.

Many years ago '90+ cluster separate components could be purchased for a repair. There was a vendor with a web-presence that had illustrated images. I might have info on an older computer. I don't recall them having black/white later C4 but for sure '90 - '93.

well a 92-93 work work and match in color.. 1991 would work too, All are not year correct but could work.

As for the controls, yes those could be swapped as well, but I am not quite sure how that would look, short of changing everything to black/white. I would like to change it up in my car, but my son likes the grey/black/orange that I have. I would like to have the white letters but want to keep the grey as a mix. the only problem for me is the headlight switch

[WVZR-1]

well a 92-93 work work and match in color.. 1991 would work too, All are not year correct but could work.



'92 & '93 would still present LCD issues I'd believe, gauge function of DIC I believe added in '92. Cluster match short of LCD yes. Best of recollection only an oil temp value issue 90 & '91.

[Ccmano]

Here’s a photo with the 96 cluster installed. I never noticed that the light switch writing is in white too. Look’s great to me, to each his own I suppose. I’m doing a dash pad swap at the same time. It’s a 91 so at least that’s somewhat “correct”.... lol.
H
:cheers:

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250457327_9e56cbe018_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i36t6Z)

[Dynomite]

Learned something new today. 90-91 instrument clusters are NOT interchangeable with 92-96 clusters. At least not the LCD module. Everything else worked fine.

The tach on my 90 cluster is way off, some of the lights are out and the oil pressure gauge is off. So I found a great deal on a newly rebuilt low mile 96 LT4 cluster. Did the swap today only to find out that the LCD display went wonky showing jibberish. My frist thought was the new cluster LCD was defective. I had always thought all years were interchangeable.

So I sent Brian Thompson at Batee.com an email with a photo of the new cluster jibberish. Much to my surprise and satisfaction I got immediate reply (that’s customer service). He informs me that the LCD’s are indeed NOT compatible. The “electrical protocol “ was changed between the two.

The good news is that I can swap the LCD modules (the old LCD is still excellent, although I may rebuild it anyway) and I’m good to go. The LDC modules are a simple plug in.
H

OLD Cluster

http://a64.tinypic.com/vcwef7.jpg

NEW Cluster

http://a64.tinypic.com/2s994dt.jpg

I included this thread in -Solutions- (third post - ZR1 Electronics under KEYLESS ENTRY, TACHOMETER, CRUISE). The technical information is greatly appreciated. I did not know such differences in clusters existed but having said that it seems Paul has a handle on the most obvious issue that comes up once in a great while (Tachometer calibration).
Tachometer Calibration TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=143685)

[-=Jeff=-]

the white does look a bit more defined than the yellow/orange..

Hmm.. I might need to consider doing some changes again in the interior

[Ccmano]

the white does look a bit more defined than the yellow/orange..

Hmm.. I might need to consider doing some changes again in the interior

Jeff,
When you put the two side by side you can clearly see difference. See the attached photo.

Cliff,
Excellent! Your “Solutions “ threads are invaluable.
H
:cheers:

http://a65.tinypic.com/k9gzh0.jpg
http://a64.tinypic.com/t8kolw.jpg

[WVZR-1]

Cliff - I'd appreciate you removing the 'quoted info' in post #15. I did that many years ago as reference for those interested in changing from a 6K to an 8K cluster. Granted it does cover LCD variables and mentions warning filters/warning lights. I posted that to be used by the OP as a reference to LCD differences.

------------------
It does NOT directly relate other than the LAST ENTRY:

People have swapped LCD's year to year etc and mentioned no issues or issues that didn't concern them. I've paid little attention to that. Until a cluster tachometer is confirmed to be correct when compared to a scanner on the ALDL it should be assumed that it likely needs calibrated.

If you'd like mention cluster differences by PART#/YEAR feel free. That information is correct. The OP asked that I forward him my thoughts and I likely will accommodate him.

[Ccmano]

Cliff - I'd appreciate you removing the 'quoted info' in post #15. I did that many years ago as reference for those interested in changing from a 6K to an 8K cluster. Granted it does cover LCD variables and mentions warning filters/warning lights. I posted that to be used by the OP as a reference to LCD differences.

------------------
It does NOT directly relate other than the LAST ENTRY:

People have swapped LCD's year to year etc and mentioned no issues or issues that didn't concern them. I've paid little attention to that. Until a cluster tachometer is confirmed to be correct when compared to a scanner on the ALDL it should be assumed that it likely needs calibrated.

If you'd like mention cluster differences by PART#/YEAR feel free. That information is correct. The OP asked that I forward him my thoughts and I likely will accommodate him.

Cliff,
I have sent an email to Bryan Thompson at Batee.com to see if he knows the if Tachs are compatible across the various versions between 1990 and 1996. Or if there is recalibration required. Obviously when buying a used cluster the accuracy of the tach cannot be assumed to be correct. With Bryan’s permission I will post his answer.
H
:cheers:

[WVZR-1]

Cliff,
I have sent an email to Bryan Thompson at Batee.com to see if he knows the if Tachs are compatible across the various versions between 1990 and 1996. Or if there is recalibration required. Obviously when buying a used cluster the accuracy of the tach cannot be assumed to be correct. With Bryan’s permission I will post his answer.


It will be interesting to see Bryan's comments. I always mention 'calibration' unless confirmed. Very generally speaking @ KEY ON - ENGINE OFF and the TACH parks @ anything other than 0 there's a requirement to have a 'calibration' correction.

KEY ON -ENGINE OFF and parking @ 0 while NOT a confirmation of accurate TACH response it can generally assumed to be within specifications.

Cliff - thanks for 'fixing' post #15.

If you have a C4 and @ KEY ON - ENGINE OFF tach parks @ 0 - "RELAX"

If it does NOT park @ 0 you have issues.

Regardless make/model/year of anything you drive if @ KEY ON - ENGINE OFF and the TACH isn't parked @ 0 , it would be safe to assume you have issues!!

[Ccmano]

Looks like we will have an even better way to address this issue. Bryan will sign up for the forum and participate directly in this (and hopefully other) threads. We will all be able to address questions to him directly.
H


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[-=Jeff=-]

Wire changes89588959

I also found that the PCB on the 6k and 8k clusters (later years) are the same, even the calibration IC looks the same..

I think with an 8k cal and overlay you could build one from a 6k core


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Ccmano]

Wire changes89588959

I also found that the PCB on the 6k and 8k clusters (later years) are the same, even the calibration IC looks the same..

I think with an 8k cal and overlay you could build one from a 6k core


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Jeff,

I believe you are correct. Bryan told me the following earlier today.

“The 8K and 6K needle movements are the same (plus or minus some variance). It's the gauge faces and calibration IC which makes it a 6K or 8K tach.”
Hope this helps.

My soldering skills are probably not up to messing around with the board. I may just leave it alone for the time being.

H
:cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

So on the later PCB, it is printed on the PCB that the Brake on the overlay is printed as Door ajar.

Door ajar on the overlay is Upshift label on PCB. they must have changed the trace design on the 92-later Clusters.

I still would like to do a custom cluster but retain the LCD panel

[batee]

Hi, everyone:

Thank you for the kind words.


I just wanted to remind everyone that you can find complete wiring diagrams for the instrument panel system and the C68 HVAC system on batee.com, along with troubleshooting procedures straight from the FSM. We have both 90 and 96 online.


Before I started servicing and selling parts for the 90-96 clusters, I did significant research on the various issues they have. We made our own test equipment to drive the 90-96 clusters and which we use to service clusters. Photos got out and I got enough requests to purchase those testers that we now offer them for sale. http://batee.com/9xtest/

The 90-91s do indeed use a different electrical protocol to drive the LCD than the 92-96s used. Therefore they haven't been interchangeable - until now. We have designed an adapter which allows a 92-96 LCD in a 90-91 cluster. Using the same hardware, we should be able to produce something to allow a 90-91 LCD to be used in a 92-96 panel as well. Why? Well, a few years ago, there were no 90-91 panels available, but there was a source of 92-96 panels. So we made an adapter. It's a small microcontroller which takes the place of the LCD connector. It reads the datastream coming from the CCM and generates the correct LCD drive signals for the other style LCD.

The primary issues we see in the repair shop are:

1) LCD is unreadable / blank / displaying garbled info. Sometimes it's the polarizing film, sometimes it's the LCD connector, sometimes it's a broken solder joint at the wiring harness connector, sometimes it's the LCD IC. Rarely do we see a defective LCD that can't be restored, but it happens. Shameless plug: We offer products to fix most of these issues on batee.com.

2) The tachometer is pegging 6K at most engine RPM. This is a common failure point. The white calibration IC fails frequently. The resistor hacks have been online forever, but some people would rather not hack their clusters, so we have developed a replacement IC for either 6K clusters or 8K clusters. They are adjustable to deal with the variances presented by various tach needle movements.

3) A needle other than the tach is reading wrong. We see a few failed meter movements, but for the most part, the issue is a broken sender, shorted wiring, or a sticking needle. Protip: Don't set the cluster on its face while servicing it. The needles push onto the movements and begin to rub on the face of the gauges and appear to "stick". Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pull them away from the gauge, but don't remove them from the needle movement unless you have a guaranteed way to know where to set the needle when you put it back on the movement.

4) Lots of chemicals attack the acrylic plastic on the face of the instrument panel. I've tried polish, but it doesn't seem to help. Keep everything but Windex off of the clear plastic!

5) If your LCD panel hasn't faded yet, take precautions to prevent it from happening to you! It only takes a few minutes of extreme exposure to permanently destroy the polarizing film. Light coming through a garage window, a trouble light rested temporarily on top of the steering wheel, and a 30 minute trip to the drive-in have all been reported causes of the fading. Sunny southern places like Florida, SoCal and Texas see this a lot more frequently than our northern customers. Protip: Carry a towel and throw it over the dash when you're not driving.

6) The bulbs in your cluster are a PC161. Most people who try to source the bulbs from an auto parts store or eBay find that they lock into place in an orientation that doesn't allow the back plastic cover to be installed. We have the correct bulbs needed to be able to install all covers.


I'll check into the issue in the difference between the early and late PC boards. It could be they changed the board, and it could be that they just changed the text on the gauge faces. If they did, then it should be possible to rearrange the wiring harness wires to drive the correct indicator bulbs - if they exist on the new gauge face.



If anyone knows of a source for the partially translucent gauge faces that our instrument panels use, please let me know and we'll start offering them.


You can find more information, as well as parts and service for your ZR-1, at batee.com, including free online instructions and an online video of us demonstrating these repairs and more.

If you are experiencing other electrical problems, please feel free to contact us at service@batee.com. We're always looking for ways to help.

Thank you,
Bryan A. Thompson
Owner, batee.com Corvette Parts and Repair

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Hi, everyone:

Thank you for the kind words.


I just wanted to remind everyone that you can find complete wiring diagrams for the instrument panel system and the C68 HVAC system on batee.com, along with troubleshooting procedures straight from the FSM. We have both 90 and 96 online.


Before I started servicing and selling parts for the 90-96 clusters, I did significant research on the various issues they have. We made our own test equipment to drive the 90-96 clusters and which we use to service clusters. Photos got out and I got enough requests to purchase those testers that we now offer them for sale. http://batee.com/9xtest/

The 90-91s do indeed use a different electrical protocol to drive the LCD than the 92-96s used. Therefore they haven't been interchangeable - until now. We have designed an adapter which allows a 92-96 LCD in a 90-91 cluster. Using the same hardware, we should be able to produce something to allow a 90-91 LCD to be used in a 92-96 panel as well. Why? Well, a few years ago, there were no 90-91 panels available, but there was a source of 92-96 panels. So we made an adapter. It's a small microcontroller which takes the place of the LCD connector. It reads the datastream coming from the CCM and generates the correct LCD drive signals for the other style LCD.

The primary issues we see in the repair shop are:

1) LCD is unreadable / blank / displaying garbled info. Sometimes it's the polarizing film, sometimes it's the LCD connector, sometimes it's a broken solder joint at the wiring harness connector, sometimes it's the LCD IC. Rarely do we see a defective LCD that can't be restored, but it happens. Shameless plug: We offer products to fix most of these issues on batee.com.

2) The tachometer is pegging 6K at most engine RPM. This is a common failure point. The white calibration IC fails frequently. The resistor hacks have been online forever, but some people would rather not hack their clusters, so we have developed a replacement IC for either 6K clusters or 8K clusters. They are adjustable to deal with the variances presented by various tach needle movements.

3) A needle other than the tach is reading wrong. We see a few failed meter movements, but for the most part, the issue is a broken sender, shorted wiring, or a sticking needle. Protip: Don't set the cluster on its face while servicing it. The needles push onto the movements and begin to rub on the face of the gauges and appear to "stick". Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pull them away from the gauge, but don't remove them from the needle movement unless you have a guaranteed way to know where to set the needle when you put it back on the movement.

4) Lots of chemicals attack the acrylic plastic on the face of the instrument panel. I've tried polish, but it doesn't seem to help. Keep everything but Windex off of the clear plastic!

5) If your LCD panel hasn't faded yet, take precautions to prevent it from happening to you! It only takes a few minutes of extreme exposure to permanently destroy the polarizing film. Light coming through a garage window, a trouble light rested temporarily on top of the steering wheel, and a 30 minute trip to the drive-in have all been reported causes of the fading. Sunny southern places like Florida, SoCal and Texas see this a lot more frequently than our northern customers. Protip: Carry a towel and throw it over the dash when you're not driving.

6) The bulbs in your cluster are a PC161. Most people who try to source the bulbs from an auto parts store or eBay find that they lock into place in an orientation that doesn't allow the back plastic cover to be installed. We have the correct bulbs needed to be able to install all covers.


I'll check into the issue in the difference between the early and late PC boards. It could be they changed the board, and it could be that they just changed the text on the gauge faces. If they did, then it should be possible to rearrange the wiring harness wires to drive the correct indicator bulbs - if they exist on the new gauge face.



If anyone knows of a source for the partially translucent gauge faces that our instrument panels use, please let me know and we'll start offering them.


You can find more information, as well as parts and service for your ZR-1, at batee.com, including free online instructions and an online video of us demonstrating these repairs and more.

If you are experiencing other electrical problems, please feel free to contact us at service@batee.com. We're always looking for ways to help.

Thank you,
Bryan A. Thompson
Owner, batee.com Corvette Parts and Repair


Just a quick note.
Conte's Corvettes has used Bryan's website to help us fix quite a few cars!
His repairs to out of calibration tachs is fast, fairly priced, and very accurate.
Great to have his skill set available to our group and the rest of the Corvette community!

Well done Bryan!

Marty

[-=Jeff=-]

Awesome Bryan,

Thanks for joining and answering questions. looking at your website again, do you offer or have luck with finding LED Bulbs for the 90-96 Cluster?

[batee]

LEDs for the 90-96 clusters are a possibility for us.



For the 84-89s, it was critical that we find a cooler replacement for the factory bulbs, because the clusters were melting internally. This isn't the case for the 90-96s - I've never seen damage caused by a factory bulb.



The largest issue with LEDs is dimmability. They run more efficiently than the bulbs. As a result, they don't dim as completely as the bulbs do. It's an issue for some people who drive lots at night and want to preserve night vision.


The second issue we see is the brightness. We have to find something that matches the brightness of the factory bulb. The factory bulb is a 2W bulb. Most LEDs on the market are the equivalent of 5-7W in brightness, so they look way brighter than the factory bulbs.


The third issue is color. The color in the cluster comes from color filters built into the gauge faces and LED diffuser panel. It isn't possible to put anything other than a white behind a telltale location and still get a red signal. Amber warnings have to be white. Turn signals have to be white. High beams have to be white. Illumination bulbs have to be warm white or they'll look wrong. And of course, customers all know they want a set of 20 blue LEDs which just isn't going to work (unless you want green gauge faces, brown LED and orange or purple telltale lights and blue green high beam).



I'm meeting with our LED manufacturer soon and will ask if it's possible to supply exactly what we're looking for. It would definitely not be a cheap kit for us to offer, but it's possible that we'll have something in the next couple of months.



Thank you,
Bryan

[WVZR-1]

Hello Bryan,

I've understood the issues/challenges with 'back-lighting' for years. That's always been an issue and I'm NOT an LED fan either.

Pointer/needle lifting I use a plastic fork - repositioning 'never' I leave that to the cluster shops!!!

What I thought would be interesting from your service capabilities is to offer the (2) DIC and 'switch pod' lighting replacements. I believe I can accomplish these for myself but the subject surfaces from time to time.

I've done many bulb services of later GM radios and I've a friend/acquaintance that buys them by the 'gross' so I just use whatever he's using currently. I get all of the bulb possibilities.

I've included 2 bulb charts from the '91 & '96 FSM that cover the bulbs of interest, '90 - '96 are so similar in 'switch pod' lighting I'd think it would do well. I'd think with likely NO 'SPONSORED VENDOR' requirements information information should pass freely. A 'SPONSORED VENDOR' relationship here would I think result in some trickle down through the CF also.

8963

8964


***A bit of an Internet glitch here most of the afternoon with NO ACCESS!! I had to piece this post together 4 times!

[-=Jeff=-]

Thinking about this, I am guessing the cluster PCB is the same 90-96. The harness was then repinned later to remove the up shift and move the door ajar. If you use Bryan’s tach calibration pack you could swap the gauges to the PCB and it will all work the same

[Ccmano]

So here we are with the LCD screens (module) swapped. Working nicely. I decided to simply deactivate the “Door Ajar” light rather than messing with the PC board, given my limited soldering skills. Taking the LCD screen out was straight forward following the instructions posted on Batee.com.
http://batee.com/corvette/dcrg/lcd_repair_9096/

The connector simply unplugs. There is some gentle finesse required in prying the screen connector prongs out. Once started they come apart easily. Then the screen is tilted forward at the top and up and out. Attached are some photos of the LCD screen itself. The two version appear to be identical to the naked eye. The difference is in the printed circuitry at the top.
H
:cheers:

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250457327_9e56cbe018_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i36t6Z)

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250456997_a37574ca92_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i36t1i)

https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/49250251431_d4e50257e8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2i35pU4)

[jss06c6]

Hans,

Thanks for bringing this all together!

Steve

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[-=Jeff=-]

Now I am debating again on swapping to White lettering, but I like the grey.. There is a challenge with it.. I can do grey, vents and console, all black and whit control faces, some grey buttons on things.. ( like the locks and possible Cruise control Switch)

the DIC overlay would be grey with a mix of black and white. same with the head light switch..