Vette2Vette No Flex Install

[XfireZ51]

One of the projects I had lined up for summer driving involved installation of the Vette2Vette No Flex chassis bracing system. ZR-1 Registry member =Jeff= was the "beta" install for this system and has been very happy with it for several years. I wanted to document the install particularly given that I am using coilovers and the DRM rear suspension bracketing.
The DRM control arm brackets "spread" the control arms fyrther apart which then blocks direct access to the lower bracket/frame mounting bolt. This bolt functions as the upper mount bolt for the rear NoFlex mount.

The pics I have posted are as follows:

1. No Flex Components
2. Differential Jacking attachment
3. Blocked lower control arm bracket bolt
4. Remove control rod attaching bolt and move control rod for clearance
5. Temporary loosen Ebrake cable bracket for additional installation clearance

Additional pics are in next post

[XfireZ51]

6. Using a level aligning bottom of bracket keeping NoFlex tension rod mount perpendicular to frame.

7. This is the rear tension rod mount bracket installed and setup for drilling lower mount bolt hole. This hole goes through the lower frame and prevents rear No Flex bracket from sliding slightly side to side.

8. Shows where hole is drilled for lower brackt mount and that Ebrake cable is temporarily moved for install clearance.

9. Lower bracket bolt installed

10. Tension rod Heim joint being installed and torqued to 80#.

The rear driver’s side bracket is the most difficult part of the install. Front brackets are pretty straightforward

[XfireZ51]

This next group shows installation of front mounting bracket for the tension rod Heim joint.

11. The front mounting bracket utilizes the C4 convertible brace mounting holes already in the frame. I first hit the holes w some Kroil penetrating oil to help clean out the threads.

12. Shows the convertible brace mounting holes. There are 4 of them

13. Front bracket installed

14. Tension rods mounted in front and rear brackets and tension applied.

[XfireZ51]

My overall impressions are that this bracing system works. I am satisfied with it. What is noticeable is the absence of the 2nd Degree harmonics. This is the kind of thing that you don't notice until its not there any longer. As an example, going over railroad crossing, even w the targa installed. I expect to hear certain creaks, rattles and noise. However, when I did this for the first time after installing the V2V No Flex, the car felt more like it was a German platform. There was a lack of secondary flex or noise. The car felt much solid as if it was more of a single piece.

[onethumb]

Thank you for posting. I have been eyeing this kit for a while. Seems like a pretty straight-forward install with some benefit. My past experience with convertibles is such that a chassis stiffener is generally one of the best things you can do for them. It may not yield any time on the track, but the overall 'feel' of the vehicle improves. I suspect the same is true for these cars, given the flexible nature of the chassis.

[XfireZ51]

I have coilovers but I would opt for the V2V bracing first providing a much more stable platform for handling. As an example, I found I am using the Touring setting on my FX3 rather than the Sport I had been using.

[KPW]

Thanks for this post. I’ve been on the fence, but I think I’ll be bumping these up toward the top of my list.


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[Flyman 27]

How involved was the instal? How long did it take?

[Paul Workman]

I have coilovers but I would opt for the V2V bracing first providing a much more stable platform for handling. As an example, I found I am using the Touring setting on my FX3 rather than the Sport I had been using.

I've always been intrigued by the bars. But, do the bars in any way impede access to the pinch welds when it comes time to jack the car up?

[dredgeguy]

I have had the V2V no flex for the last 2 years and it does the job. Leaving my home there is a dip in the road I would go over everyday. When I had the clear roof off the car would flex and the roof would sound like it was cracking when I went over the dip. After the install, no noise so for sure it is stiffer. I won the no flex in the ZR-1 Net silent auction at Carlisle (another reason to go!)

[XfireZ51]

I've always been intrigued by the bars. But, do the bars in any way impede access to the pinch welds when it comes time to jack the car up?

Paul,

U can actually use the V2V mounts to jack the car up, then jack stands can be placed under the pinch welds at other points of the chassis. I took a look at this becuase I was also looking at getting the Qjacks for the garage and they also utilize the pinch weld that runs down the side of the rocker area. Jeff has had the NoFlex for several years and he has been using the NoFlex mounts for jacking purposes as well.

The Jack A Vette adapter (pictured above) I have is also a great way to jack up the rear using the differential. However, I just searched for it and it seems Corvette Gadgetman no longer offers it. It was $60 but worth every penny IMO. If u can find an I Beam, u can make one.

[XfireZ51]

How involved was the instal? How long did it take?

All in all, the majority of the time spent installing these was taken up with the rear driver’s side mount. That’s where it was more involved due to interference of the Ebrake cable. The front mounts could be done almost without jacking the car up and maybe took 30 minutes. The rears required drilling the frame and lining things up for that. So overall, about 4 hours which would include connecting and tightening the tension rods. The biggest issue there is clearance to set the correct tension on the rods and tighten the locking nuts beacuse u will want to do that with the weight of the car on the wheels.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Nice post Dom! This is great for those on the fence to know what is involved and how it works. I love mine too and pick up on the mount to lift with QuickJack. Thanks for the heads up about the DRM control arm brackets. I have those with coilovers and Banski set up to install.


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[carter200]

Nice post Dom! This is great for those on the fence to know what is involved and how it works. I love mine too and pick up on the mount to lift with QuickJack. Thanks for the heads up about the DRM control arm brackets. I have those with coilovers and Banski set up to install.


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Craig,
Don’t forgot my help, too....,,

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

Don’t forgot my help, too....,,



Sorry bro, my intent was only to mention to Dom that I did not know I will encounter problems trying to install the DRM control arms brackets when I install my coilovers. I’ll be sure to post about your coilover front sway bar bolt kit and bracket, custom rear upper shock mounts for my Banski pin top mount for FX3, custom billet center piece for plenum and CCW center caps engraved with ZR-1 Splash.


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[carter200]

Sorry bro, my intent was only to mention to Dom that I did not know I will encounter problems trying to install the DRM control arms brackets when I install my coilovers. I’ll be sure to post about your coilover front sway bar bolt kit and bracket, custom rear upper shock mounts for my Banski pin top mount for FX3, custom billet center piece for plenum and CCW center caps engraved with ZR-1 Splash.


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Just messin' with ya........... Good luck at the show!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Just messin' with ya........... Good luck at the show!



Thanks! As I said, if I win it will be because your custom plenum center piece! Sorry Dom for the off topic discussion on your awesome tech post!!!


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[XfireZ51]

Nice post Dom! This is great for those on the fence to know what is involved and how it works. I love mine too and pick up on the mount to lift with QuickJack. Thanks for the heads up about the DRM control arm brackets. I have those with coilovers and Banski set up to install.


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Craig,

I found that I needed to flip the Qjacks in order to line up w the V2V mounts. So the hoses come in from the rear of the car.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,



I found that I needed to flip the Qjacks in order to line up w the V2V mounts. So the hoses come in from the rear of the car.



Dom,
That is strange. I use my QJack 78427843with the hoses towards the front of the car and no issue using the V2VNF bars as pick up point. I use the low rubber blocks. I bought a set of the QJack pinch weld blocks but can’t use those with the V2V bars so only for my Audi DD.


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[XfireZ51]

Dom,
That is strange. I use my QJack 78427843with the hoses towards the front of the car and no issue using the V2VNF bars as pick up point. I use the low rubber blocks. I bought a set of the QJack pinch weld blocks but can’t use those with the V2V bars so only for my Audi DD.


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I'll have to take another look. I also am using the low blocks. Using the Qjack mounting points makes lining the jacks up easier.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I'll have to take another look. I also am using the low blocks. Using the Qjack mounting points makes lining the jacks up easier.


I understand. I really love the QJack. I suppose there are certain times I might have to lift the traditional way when the V2VNF might be in the way. One example would be when I use the Lokar brake cable for the Mr. Parker parking brake when I install the Wilwood brakes that I have for the rear.




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[RussMcB]

I skimmed through this thread twice, but didn't see how to determine the proper tension. I was hoping to hear a little bit about that. Maybe it's in there but I missed it?

But, having said that, I very much appreciate the post and pictures. Thank you.

[XfireZ51]

Russ,

Good question. I spoke w Jason (V2V) suggested that prior to installing, take the targa off w wheels on the ground. Measure dimension from windshield header to rear halo.
Then jack car up and measure same dimension again. Note the difference.
Now begin tensioning the rods so that when you jack car up, the dimensions u measured are the same whether the vehicle is on the ground or jacked up.
With the sdjustments made, I find that I am less fatigued driving longer distances than I have been before.
I will tell you that I did not do the measurements. Rather, I just made sure that the adjustment was equal on both sides of the car. I did this bu counting the threads that are axposed after tightening and tensioning the rods. After my first drive, I decided to increase the tension just a bit more. In the end, it is up to your preference. As I stated esrlier, I now feel co fortable riding with my Moracca valved FX3 set to Touring rather than sport. I was able to go through a few twisties yesterday and I could feel how the car was very much planted and took corners flat. Just felt very confident with a neutral feel.

[Karl]

I am preparing to install this kit and it did not come with instructions.

Besides the 27/32" hole are there any other holes that require drilling into the frame?

Thanks for the write up Dominic.

[-=Jeff=-]

Those holes must be at the back.. mine do not have them. They must have determined that the added holes with bolt help. I need to call Jason about that.

I still have the very first set of V2V no flex bars on my car


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[XfireZ51]

Yes the new kits come w provision for adding an additional bolt by the trailing arm bracket. U also use one of the existing trailing arm bracket bolts for attaching the rear V2V bracket. The front bracket utilizes the holes provided for the convertible X brace.

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes I knew about all the bolts except the added one. Could someone post a picture of the added bolt location? Maybe I will just add one

[Karl]

Yes I knew about all the bolts except the added one. Could someone post a picture of the added bolt location? Maybe I will just add one

It is in Dominic's second post where it says drill holes here. Do you want to see the bracket with the hole also?

[-=Jeff=-]

No those pictures work.. lol.. guess I need to look at the beginning of posts more often.

Now to add that project to my list