AC Recharge

[32valvZ]

Anyone try one of the do it yourself cans of R-134a? Apparently mine had leaked out or is low and I thought I would give one of these a try. I figure if it stays cold then it maybe was low... if it leaks out quickly, Ill bring it to a service shop. If it does leak out quickly, where is a common failure point? Its been converted to R134a already... Any precautions?
Thanks!

[TX '90 ZR1]

If you are in fact low on freon the green indicator light over the control panel button you have selected should be flashing. Check the codes.
Low freon pressure is code 9. It can be cleared by disconnecting the battery or pulling the breaker for a few seconds. Negative battery cable is easier in my estimation.
Hook up a guage to the low side and see if you have pressure without the engine running. If pressure present, you have not lost all of the charge.
Start up and turn AC on. (Code must not be present). Does the compressor engage? If it does engage and your low side reading is under about 30 you are low enough on freon to kick the code and shut the system down.
If the compressor is cycling, try adding freon to bring the low side pressure up. The acceptable pressure varies by temp, atmospheric pressure, humidity, etc.
A good number for a typical 70-80 degree day is upper 30's. You can find charts online to figure this out.
If your compressor does not engage, you can use the paper clip method on the pressure sensor to engage the compressor until you get enough in the system to come on by itself.
I would not recommend just adding freon without knowing what the system is doing. Too much can be as bad or worse than not enough.
By the way, the schrader valves are bad about leaking.

[32valvZ]

Thank you TX 90.... I do know a few things right off....
1. the compressor is not cycling
2. the green light does not flash
3. it blows warm air

Unfortunately I sold my Robinson Gauges many years ago... I suppose the safest way to do it, is just bring the car to the shop.

Thanks Again for your advice!

[rush91]

Yes.....I did it 2 summers ago. Used a whole can, but damn it blew ice cold for that summer! By the time I got it out last year, it has all leaked out over the winter....I don't think I'm gonna mess with it this year, I think I'm going to try that piece that keeps your hatch open,to let the air pass through.

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[XfireZ51]

I’m going to be in the process of replacing compressor, dryer, and ac lines along w new seals. I usually stay away from AC because frankly I never use it. But the gf is another story especially on long rides. Is there a “typical” place where refrigerant tends to leak out on our cars?

[TX '90 ZR1]

I’m going to be in the process of replacing compressor, dryer, and ac lines along w new seals. I usually stay away from AC because frankly I never use it. But the gf is another story especially on long rides. Is there a “typical” place where refrigerant tends to leak out on our cars?

I don't know if the ZR-1 system has any "typical" places to leak, but the schrader valves are a common issue in all systems. You should have them covered with everything you are replacing.

[32valvZ]

Schrader valves can be tightened or even replaced just like in a tire valve stem I would think.... :neutral:

[jss06c6]

Dominic,

Mine had a plastic cap on the low pressure valve on the accumulator. The o-ring under the cap was old and allowed the top of the cap to slightly compress the Schrader valve stem which, over time, lost much of my R-12 charge. I went to O'Reilly's and they found an old brass low pressure cap, machined to match the chamfer on the low pressure valve. Recharged and installed the brass cap and have not had a leak in two years now.

I have all the parts needed to change to R-134, but no need until my current setup causes trouble.

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[XfireZ51]

Dominic,

Mine had a plastic cap on the low pressure valve on the accumulator. The o-ring under the cap was old and allowed the top of the cap to slightly compress the Schrader valve stem which, over time, lost much of my R-12 charge. I went to O'Reilly's and they found an old brass low pressure cap, machined to match the chamfer on the low pressure valve. Recharged and installed the brass cap and have not had a leak in two years now.

I have all the parts needed to change to R-134, but no need until my current setup causes trouble.

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Interesting. I know that Haibeck likes to seal the high side. I had access to a fairly new compressor vs my original w about 70k+ miles.

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi my system was not going when I got the car I had the engine out so while it was out I removed the whole system cleaned every thing and got a seal kit for the pump disassembled the pump and resealed it as well while I was doing the pump I replaced the pulley bearing fitted anew dryer and replaced all the orings my local AC man refill the system works great now

Regards Glen Collins

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi my system was not going when I got the car I had the engine out so while it was out I removed the whole system cleaned every thing and got a seal kit for the pump disassembled the pump and resealed it as well while I was doing the pump I replaced the pulley bearing fitted anew dryer and replaced all the orings my local AC man refill the system works great now and used 134a in the system

Regards Glen Collins

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