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jrd1990zr1
04-04-2018, 06:45 PM
Well my bad, I broke the lock portion of the harness connector to the Idle Air control. Does anyone have a source for one of these 4 wire connectors? I think it is a weatherpack.

Also is there a trick to remove the wires without cutting and splicing in a new connector?

Thanks in advance, John

Dynomite
04-04-2018, 07:24 PM
Idle Air Connector (www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24825&highlight=idle+air+connector)

You asked the same question 3 years ago .....lol

QB93Z
04-04-2018, 07:30 PM
Hi John, try searching for GM 12126487. I believe that is the IAC connector part number. I also show Delco PT757.


Here is a tool on amazon that will help:


https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Terminal-Tool/dp/B0009OR906/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522880913&sr=1-8&keywords=weatherpack+tool


If that link doesn't work, search for Lisle 56500.


Jim

WVZR-1
04-04-2018, 07:56 PM
It's a Pull To Seat Metri-Pak 150 I'm quite sure and the empty connector shell that is in the FSM doesn't seem available to create a new. You would have to actually cut the connector off insert the wires through the connector add terminals and seals then pull back towards you. I don't believe unless '90 was very different that would be the assembly process. A cut/splice of a connector that will work isn't an issue. I believe I can give you a couple numbers. If you bought the mentioned connector you could possibly use only that shell, buy terminals, seals and reassemble.

If your intention is the NCRS thing I'd think it would be good to have the real deal.

I'll try to sort an empty connector terminals etc if you'd like!

***I believe I've found a suitable 'empty shell' for you if you're interested.

Ccmano
04-04-2018, 08:12 PM
It's a Pull To Seat Metri-Pak 150 I'm quite sure and the empty connector shell that is in the FSM doesn't seem available to create a new. You would have to actually cut the connector off insert the wires through the connector add terminals and seals then pull back towards you. I don't believe unless '90 was very different that would be the assembly process. A cut/splice of a connector that will work isn't an issue. I believe I can give you a couple numbers. If you bought the mentioned connector you could possibly use only that shell, buy terminals, seals and reassemble.

If your intention is the NCRS thing I'd think it would be good to have the real deal.

I'll try to sort an empty connector terminals etc if you'd like!

***I believe I've found a suitable 'empty shell' for you if you're interested.

Yup the Metri-Pack connectors are a pain. I believe this is the one. Take a photo of the wire order on the original connector. Break the old one, remove and cut the wires and keep as much wire length as possible. Reassemble with the new connector.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F27 3107875470

Z51JEFF
04-04-2018, 10:38 PM
Yup the Metri-Pack connectors are a pain. I believe this is the one. Take a photo of the wire order on the original connector. Break the old one, remove and cut the wires and keep as much wire length as possible. Reassemble with the new connector.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F27 3107875470

I’ve got every piece in the picture that I either got from TERMINAL SUPPLY or MOUSER. All you need to do is slip the terminals out of the old connector and into the new one.

Ccmano
04-04-2018, 11:45 PM
I’ve got every piece in the picture that I either got from TERMINAL SUPPLY or MOUSER. All you need to do is slip the terminals out of the old connector and into the new one.

Getting the old ones out of the old connector is the problem. They slip in from the front. To do them correctly you put the bare wire in from the back, attach it to the connector as it sticks out the front then pull it back into the connector body and lock it in front the front. At least the ones I’ve done.
H
:cheers:

jrd1990zr1
04-05-2018, 08:47 AM
Idle Air Connector (www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24825&highlight=idle+air+connector)

You asked the same question 3 years ago .....lol

Looks like I did and when I searched couldn't find it. Must have been a "senior" moment, sorry.

I did get a GM 12126487 but it came with the pigtails. My preference is not to cut the harness, I'd like to find the bare connector for the repair.

Thanks to all for the sources.

John

WVZR-1
04-05-2018, 09:05 AM
Even with an empty 'correct' shell you still have a cut required to use it. This is an assembly guide for a 150 "Pull to Seat'. The packages that are mentioned in some of the links suggested are 150.2 P2S NOT 150.

Here's an assembly guide of a 150 P2S.

I did send you an email.

https://www.mwignitions.com/pdf/Pull2seat.pdf

You have an 'original' 12126487 now? Are all of the wire leads WHITE?

If you have a vernier measure the total length of just the shell part of the connector. I believe I can ID it as to being original 150 or if it's maybe a later 150.2. Measure the length of your busted one as a comparison.

jrd1990zr1
04-05-2018, 09:21 AM
Even with an empty 'correct' shell you still have a cut required to use it. This is an assembly guide for a 150 "Pull to Seat'. The packages that are mentioned in some of the links suggested are 150.2 P2S NOT 150.

Here's an assembly guide of a 150 P2S.

I did send you an email.

https://www.mwignitions.com/pdf/Pull2seat.pdf

You have an 'original' 12126487 now? Are all of the wire leads WHITE?

If you have a vernier measure the total length of just the shell part of the connector. I believe I can ID it as to being original 150 or if it's maybe a later 150.2. Measure the length of your busted one as a comparison.

Thanks for the instructions. Yes the pigtails are white. It appears once the metal connectors are seated in the shell you can not release them, so my idea of using the 12126487 shell will not work.

I have a caliper and will measure the shell length and post back.

Replied to your e-mail.

Thanks again, John :cheers:

WVZR-1
04-05-2018, 10:21 AM
This is a release tool that will reach a "Pull To Seat" terminal tab. The actual GM/Delphi tool was just a 'vise device' with a twist to tighten like a Dremel etc. You need to enter the rear of the shell.

Delphi vice is a 12180559-1 Understanding the length and the very small awl type point I'm sure the creative mind can sort it. Release shouldn't be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Rennsteig-Superior-Quality-680-12180559-Connection/dp/B00A8GL7NA

If this link works it would be the GM/Delphi device.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GM-Delphi-Packard-Electric-12180559-1-Terminal-Probe-Tool/202211611451?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D48421%26meid%3Dd491d7881d1d4a8 da8b502592587769e%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D 6%26sd%3D183046999878%26itm%3D202211611451&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

jrd1990zr1
04-05-2018, 02:54 PM
I found a vendor for the connector and terminals.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php

They look to have all the connectors we would need.

Thanks to all for the help. John :cheers:

tpepmeie
04-05-2018, 05:19 PM
Yes. They are quite good, I use them often.




Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

jrd1990zr1
04-11-2018, 03:18 PM
Got the replacement connector and terminals from Ballenger Motor Sports. Made the new connection, looks like OEM.

Thanks to all for the advice and help.

John:cheers:

Ccmano
04-11-2018, 06:34 PM
Got the replacement connector and terminals from Ballenger Motor Sports. Made the new connection, looks like OEM.

Thanks to all for the advice and help.

John:cheers:

Did you get the pigtail and splice it in?
H
:cheers:

jrd1990zr1
04-12-2018, 09:00 AM
Hans,

I bought a new connector and terminals from Ballenger Motorsports and installed the connector, new crimps. Did not want to splice in pigtails. Wanted it to appear OEM.

John :cheers:
Did you get the pigtail and splice it in?
H
:cheers:

Ccmano
04-12-2018, 11:35 AM
Hans,

I bought a new connector and terminals from Ballenger Motorsports and installed the connector, new crimps. Did not want to splice in pigtails. Wanted it to appear OEM.

John :cheers:

Nice... what are the part #s? I have to do mine too.
Thanks
H
:cheers:

XfireZ51
04-12-2018, 12:11 PM
Hans,

I bought a new connector and terminals from Ballenger Motorsports and installed the connector, new crimps. Did not want to splice in pigtails. Wanted it to appear OEM.

John :cheers:

John,

There’s enough wire to do that? I need to replace mine also.

jrd1990zr1
04-12-2018, 04:12 PM
Nice... what are the part #s? I have to do mine too.
Thanks
H
:cheers:

Ballenger Motorsports. Link in my previous message above.
CONN-75638 GM Delphi / Packard - 4 way metripack 150.2 sealed male connector Kit for iac, black

The terminals are PULL 2 SEAT, in other words you release them from the wire side with a double prong tool. Push them out the front.

Jim Voter's post shows a picture of the tool. I removed the short section of conduit to give some room for the repair. Pulled the rear rubber back to access the rear of the plug, then released the 4 wires one at a time. I opened up the rear crimp on each metal terminal and cut the old terminal off. I only lost about 1/8 inch of each wire. Moved the wires to the new connector and crimped new terminals on then seated them into the plastic connector. Just remember you crimp the terminals on AFTER the wire goes thru the connector. Put the conduit back on. Pretty simple job actually, sorry I waited so long to fix it.

John :cheers:

Paul Workman
04-14-2018, 08:07 AM
Just as an "FYI", another supplier I've used and had good experiences with (connectors and such) is Del City (https://www.delcity.net/).

jrd1990zr1
04-15-2018, 10:35 AM
Thanks, Always good to have multiple sources for parts.

Just as an "FYI", another supplier I've used and had good experiences with (connectors and such) is Del City (https://www.delcity.net/).