INFL REST

[Dynomite]

For you that cannot get rid of the Red INFL REST (1990) on the panel....here is a Clue where to start........inside the car :p

INFL REST Connectors inside car.
There are a Left and Right Yellow INFL REST Connector inside the car that can accumulate resistance over time.
(Left - just in front of Drivers side Speaker at the level of the top of the Speaker under carpet)
Easy to get to by just pulling back the carpet a bit in front of speaker (not the speaker carpet).
(Right - Just to right of center hump front foot rest under carpet)
Depending if you have Code 16 (Drivers side) or Code 26 (Passenger side) locate the Left or Right Yellow Connector.
(3 inches long and 3/8 inch diameter three pin)
Disconnect and Reconnect Yellow Connector to regain continuity.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x400-1/80-4_77c11f02778f19e62da3acc2db4f1e97a00c7e91.jpghttp s://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x400-1/80-3_248a109ce92280dac66243549d375f21abaac08b.jpg

Post 65 - INFL REST grounds and Alternator Connector Boot (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-4.html#post1581663369)

Photos here Post 54 - Ignition Key Codes and Clearing 1990 INFL REST Codes (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564095)

I have had two 1990s that re-grounding of the Sensor under Battery (Left) and Under Window Washer (Right) did NOT solve the issue of the INFL REST.

REMEMBER.......To Clear INFL REST Codes you GROUND A to K in the ALDL Connector, Turn Key ON, When INFL REST flashes release GROUND for 3 seconds, Re-GROUND for 3 seconds, Release Ground, Turn Key OFF.

To make it SIMPLE......to Re-Ground Sensors Under Hood.
Drivers Side....Remove Gill Plate, Battery, Battery Platform.
Passenger Side......Remove Gill Plate, Left (looking at wheel) Wheel Well Shield, Remove Windshield Water Bottle.

You need a 1/4 Inch Socket Wrench, 1/4 inch drive 13 mm socket, 1/4 inch drive 10 mm socket and that special 1/4 inch drive Swivel 10mm socket.

To remove the Gill Plate Drivers side and Passenger Side....10mm open end and 10mm socket and two 1/4 inch drive Torx 30 and Torx 15.

To shine up the frame rail surface and the sensor bottom you use a small drill and wire brush as shown.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x300-1/80-1_41a45d003881a27144c2c2404c7b8fe0513ab09e.jpghttp s://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x300-1/80-2_a8c544d305221ea99ca6d5478b1441e4f8b41d23.jpg

Post 300 - INFL REST (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-15.html#post1596384629)

Those underlined items are "Links".
Same in my signature.....those items are links.
Left click on links and it will take you there.

Now if you have IPhone.......click on the item and then select "more" and click on "Web View".
Then in Web View you just touch the item on the screen and it will take you there.

[TX '90 ZR1]

This is very timely information. Tracking down the INFL REST light is next on my list.
All you guys are the greatest.:cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

My 1990 has all the 1991 air bag gear, I always wondered it if was installed correctly. I need to locate the sensors to tell, assuming the 1991 and 1990 are different


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[WVZR-1]

My 1990 has all the 1991 air bag gear, I always wondered it if was installed correctly. I need to locate the sensors to tell, assuming the 1991 and 1990 are different

Your '90 has the '91 DERM also? If you didn't do it then it would hint a 'collision' and the proper repair was to use a '91 wheel, air bag, clock spring, DERM etc.

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes driver side lower windshield


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[max76]

Great suggestion...I found a job for the next weekend!!
Thanks Dynomite

[ABBEZR1]

My light was on for 3 years....I did the repair (code 16) and could not get the code to clear after cleaning everything. Everything that I had read until this point said that clearing the code was the hardest thing to do and even some reputable shops were just pulling the bulb because they couldn't get codes to clear. I tried all the tricks that was working for everyone(door bell) to time the grounding and un grounding ect. I was at a Lingenfelter Cars and Coffee in Michigan last summer and had diner and lunch with Marc and his wife. While at the car show Marc and I were parked next to each other and I told him I hope to be sending my car to him for some work and to get rid of that stupid light...Marc said when you get home pull the carpet back clean the yellow connectors as explained above and try to clear the code... 10 minutes after I was home was able to clear the code on the very first try....Awesome!!

[Paul Workman]

Thanks, Cliff!!!:thumbsup:

As a former member of the TONKIN GULF YACHT CLUB, I'd add this note:

Ever since then, spray ELECTRONICS CONTACTS CLEANER, and DIELECTRIC GREASE are now my best friends anytime I install or reinstall connectors on cars, yes, but especially on boats and especially on boats exposed to salt water! ("Your mileage may vary, as they say. But, you mileage will be shorter than some if ya don't use this stuff!)

Just sayin...