Alternator rebuild parts??

[Young1]

My alternator quit today during some spirited driving. Can someone provide me a part number and supplier for a rebuild kit for the slightly odd ball ZR one alternator? Years ago I would put in a new voltage regulator, brushes, diodes and whatever else I don't remember and repair them quite cheaply. I desire to get the correct high quality parts.

[Hib Halverson]

RockAuto has a lot of that stuff. Take a look at http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1990,corvette,5.7l+350cid+v8+dohc,104127 5,electrical

[Ccmano]

From the “Dynomite” archives...

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27157&highlight=Alternator+rebuild

H
:cheers:

[lfalzarano]

Jerry’s Gaskets sell complete alternators for ZR-1

http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/alternator-remy-reconditioned-90-95/


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[WVZR-1]

OP - Is your alternator on the bench yet? There's I believe only a couple internal variances between the builds. You can do 'just parts' as you're familiar with. I bought locally when I needed from a shop that did nearly all of the large fleets in the area. They used quality stuff. Component repairs have changed dramatically through the years so it's somewhat more difficult. CS144 is old.

If I knew the production number from yours I could give you maybe a correct list but I've used these people for one other fellow a couple years ago. He was happy. I don't use these guys for part # BUT only as the 'source'. I can generally supply you with good, better, best choices using a different catalog. I've sent you an email.

https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/delco/ir-ef/alternator-p11890.html

These guys are said to have good stuff also.

https://alternatorparts.com

Generally everyone offers good, better and best alternatives.

You could maybe do well locally. That's always my first choice.

I'm an RA 'hater' from way back!

[Young1]

OP is back. I can testify that the car will run for 45 miles before you run out of battery and it quits. I now have the alternator on the bench. When I pulled it out it made Kling kitty clink sounds inside. Upon separation I found four pieces of Bakelite and a strip of copper. The connection between the rotor windings and the copper the brushes ride on came apart. Looks like I am going to a rebuilder to get the rotor repaired. Shucks I was hoping to just replace the voltage regulator and capacitor. BTW I pulled off the throttle body since I did not have a socket to remove the oil whatever sensor. Thanks for all the input.

[WVZR-1]

OP is back. I can testify that the car will run for 45 miles before you run out of battery and it quits. I now have the alternator on the bench. When I pulled it out it made Kling kitty clink sounds inside. Upon separation I found four pieces of Bakelite and a strip of copper. The connection between the rotor windings and the copper the brushes ride on came apart. Looks like I am going to a rebuilder to get the rotor repaired. Shucks I was hoping to just replace the voltage regulator and capacitor. BTW I pulled off the throttle body since I did not have a socket to remove the oil whatever sensor. Thanks for all the input.

What # is on your alternator?

I'd expect maybe 1101230, 1101849, 1101597 or maybe 10479904 but unlikely.

[Young1]

Had to clean it up a bit. 1101597. 124A.

[WVZR-1]

Had to clean it up a bit. 1101597. 124A.

Here's an OEM parts list for your 1101597


6945




Enter your part #'s here for an aftermarket reference. You should be able to sort good - better - best after you get familiar with results. Local shops should be able to reference this information also.

http://www.waiglobal.com/partsearch

[WARP TEN]

I've been involved with this group or its predecessor since about 1993 and I am always amazed at the valuable information and experience our members provide to new and old members alike. While I am currently without a ZR-1 and not too much of a contributor any more, I am quite proud to be a member of this really terrific group. Pat yourselves on the back, boys and girls.--Bob

[5ABI VT]

Did you end up resolving the issue? Just thought Id mention I do have my oem 94 alternator I pulled out for a billet unit 2 years back. was running fine no issues. I did buy a brush from gm and replaced it and put it back together. I was reading into the windings and stuff and just wanted a newer design so I bought the aftermarket one. Thread reminded me I had it

[Young1]

The rotor came apart. The copper that connects its windings to the base of the slip ring along with some Bakelite was in small pieces. Clinkity clink. I took it to a local rebuilder not knowing what else may have fried with the pieces bouncing around. Probably happened during some 6-7k rpm action. [emoji16] Thanks for the offer.


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[Dynomite]

The Ultima 124 Amp Alternator - Remanufactured R111799A from O'Reillys fits the 1990 ZR-1 perfectly. This Alternator costs $100. The Ultima is a bit heavier with the body a bit larger in diameter with identical mounting points as the stock Alternator. The Ultima 124 Amp Alternator fits perfectly under the Plenum of the LT5.

See Item #2 Backup Tail Light Switch and Alternators (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564069)

[Young1]

Great info. For all. Cost me $100 to have mine rebuilt. But it took two weeks.

[WVZR-1]

Great info. For all. Cost me $100 to have mine rebuilt. But it took two weeks.

But you're reasonably sure of the rebuild - the 'off the shelf' generally leaves much to be desired. I'd much rather have an OE done either by myself or a 'for hire' vs the majority of the 'off the shelf'.

Your rotor coming apart complicated/delayed yours - that's a somewhat uncommon failure for most CS144. There is such a thing as OVN (Overnight Shipping) that likely would have eliminated the delay.

I'm sure you also mentioned 'not rushed' to the fellow also. I'd say you did well!!! I understand the cam sensor R&D is doing well also.

[Dynomite]

I have taken the 1990 #72 ZR-1 with Phil's Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Rebuilt Ultima 124 Amp Alternator on several Quarter Mile Runs and one 100 mile round trip with NO ISSUES. I have yet had to replace any Rebuilt Alternators from O'Reillys :thumbsup:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_4_6284e96f9dc86773f773765b84caa86c4b44d089.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_5_320b8e519e62ed9d37e5d6ce3b2677aeb8918b1e.jpg

3. Installing All Aluminum Alternator Pulley.

Both the bottom and top Alternator Mountings and the threaded hole at rear of Alternator that excepts the bolt from the small angled brace that attaches to the Injector Housing Bolt are ALL identical to the stock Alternator. The Hot wire can be seen just above the rear mounting bolt and is actually better positioned on this Ultima 124 amp alternator than the stock alternator.

See All Aluminum Alternator Pulley (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-13.html#post1592505495)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_1_c9131ac28488491cd561d70fbb6e680e2279bda7.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_2_f59a0adc61c44dc760aa5e138df94aa6a82f6943.jpg

4. Minor Modification of Air Horn.

The smaller single vacuum port (nipple) on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' (90' only) is for vapor Canister Control and which vacuum line is connected to the Charcoal Vapor Canister control valve under the Drivers Side Headlight (on the 90'). This single Vapor Canister Control vacuum nipple almost touches the Ultima 124 Amp Alternator body and has to be bent just a bit as shown in the second photo. This assures the Alternator is not touching the rubber vacuum connector that fits on the vacuum nipple of the Air Horn.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_7_8fd7af56f5917a16ba6701e6b7a60934868992b3.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_8_1cbcc5ba2fa4fd27f38e6d7fca516fb328c90ec1.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_6_c40bedd0ba24756bf328f63dc68e3ded82cbefb6.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/350x500-1/80-alt_10_6095a04b76f06d7ac61452c42f8a7ac0d92c4989.jp g

[Z51JEFF]

I hope the OP had better luck than I did with my ALT. I took the damn thing apart and set the disassembled ALT on a self and didn’t get back to it for awhile not can’t remember the order of the spacers,doesn’t help that I’ve got other stray ALT parts thrown in the pile. I’ll have to by an extra ALT,get it apart just to get the order of the spacers right.

[A26B]

I hope the OP had better luck than I did with my ALT. I took the damn thing apart and set the disassembled ALT on a self and didn’t get back to it for awhile not can’t remember the order of the spacers,doesn’t help that I’ve got other stray ALT parts thrown in the pile. I’ll have to by an extra ALT,get it apart just to get the order of the spacers right.


Look at post 6 in this thread
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27876&highlight=alternator

[Z51JEFF]

Look at post 6 in this thread
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27876&highlight=alternator

I used this reference to put the thing back together and all is good until I put the pulley on the fan,this collar or spacer is not thick enough to seat the pully,the back side of the pulley is right on the fan,tighten the bolt and it will pull the center of the pulley down to the collar,stressing the pulley hub. This ALT was a reman that was on the car when I bought it,it died soon after so I rebuilt the original that came with the car. Who to say the reman was built with wrong parts to begin with,one reason what I never buy rebuilt alternators or starters. Carburetors too for that matter. Can somebody measure with a caliper the collar that goes between the pulley and the fan,the other 2 collars seem to be in the right spot on the armature.