Need Guidance ASAP!!!!

[Saoirse32]

Hi All,
New to the corvette world, owning a few Porsche Turbos. I have my eye on a ZR-1 that is coming for sale. I’d like to do a pre purchase inspection before purchase. Can you learned men suggest any solid places? The local dealer was a suggestion but I’m loathe to go there. Thanks in advance. I was advised to post in the forum from good members of corvetteforum. I’m in Orange County.


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[Saoirse32]

For reference, this is the one...

http://www.dcmotorcars.com/vehicle-details/used-1990-chevrolet-corvette-zr-1-anaheim-hills-ca-id-18398714


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[A1990]

For reference, this is the one...

http://www.dcmotorcars.com/vehicle-details/used-1990-chevrolet-corvette-zr-1-anaheim-hills-ca-id-18398714


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The car in the link has 353 miles on it. What are your plans for this car? It also appears in the pictures that the car is running and it has the INFL REST light and SERVICE ENGINE SOON lights on. The INFL REST is pretty common to the 90 model year. Usually this code can be cleared. Not sure why the SES light might be on.

If you are looking for a collector car this could be good buy, if you are looking for a driver, I would keep looking. Lots of low mile (not 353 miles) cars available that have been all sorted out.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

OP
In case you missed the answer over on the other forum:

With 300 miles on a 90, it will likely need:
1-fuel pumps and sender, as I bet the existing one has so much rust you will need to clean the tank bottom.
2- 16 injectors
3- tires for driving
4- new fluids, all

it obviously has been running as it has been emssions tested at least three times in the last year, so that tells me a lot, and it's all good, except perhaps for the last fail, but if original injectors, not surprised

The car is priced such that the above work once done still leaves it very well bought.

Good luck; NICE find!
Move ahead.
Write the check.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/images/smilies/cheers2.gif
Marty

[Saoirse32]

My plans, though in their beginning stages, are mixed. Much like the 930 I purchased in 2005, and 996TTS I bought almost two years ago now, I look for well-sorted cars that I anticipate will increase in value AND be driven sometimes (but not used as daily drivers). I’m not close to a collector but have gotten “lucky” with the cars I’ve chosen over the years.


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[Ccmano]

This car is not what I would call “sorted”. Wrote this over on CF...

The SES and Infl Rest lights are on. With the SES light on the secondaries won’t work, no “full power”. That may be the reason the light is on. You will need someone who knows what their doing to sort that out unless your a “get your own hands dirty” kind of person. There is more than enough info here and over on ZR1.net forum to resolve that. The infl rest light is normally easy to resolve for someone willing to look up the issue and follow simple directions.

If you plan to drive the car expect other things to happen. Oil leaks, ac issues and such. Cars can’t sit for 27 years and then suddenly be perfect.

The price is reasonable but for that money I would want a car with no issues and in full running condition.

$26 - $27K would be where I would feel comfortable knowing it will need work.

Btw, DC is not far from Corvette Mike. Maybe you can take it there for an inspection.

Good luck.
H
:cheers:

[Hog]

I'd be curious to see the engine run hour meter on a car like this. I'd bet it has high engine run hours for only 383 miles. Could be a simple fix(night need an Italian tune-up), or a not so simple fix.
Idling, esp. without a good drive hurts engines, O2 sensors, cats.
These cars were meant to be driven, not started then half warmed up, then shut down and not driven.
Draining fuel, preserving the fuel system and fogging the engine goes a long way for the long term, "park in the garage and admire" type cars. But many of these types of cars have owners that like to at least start them up and rev them when the friends come over. Hard to blame them.

I wonder what the mood would be if this was a 448 production per year and 405hp 93, 94 or esp. a 95 car?


EDIT It has 383 miles, not 358 miles that I originally wrote.

[PhillipsLT5]

Time capsule, maybe avail for 25 to 28 K, missing license plate holder/frame in pic, maybe dealer has it?

[Performawheels]

Just my .02 cents, but when I was looking for mine, the search began and ended with cars listed in the registry for sale section....bought from a member of this site, a ZR-1 enthusiast and original owner. It was great getting the detailed service and ownership history. Good luck in your search. I live in Corona and attend the Cars and Coffee event at Saleen Motorsports most Saturday’s (once a month it’s Porsche Day sponsored by Walter’s Porsche and the local Porsche Club). I’ll be making the Tour D’Orange run this New Years Day as well.


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[Ccmano]

I live in Corona and attend the Cars and Coffee event at Saleen Motorsports most Saturday’s (once a month it’s Porsche Day sponsored by Walter’s Porsche and the local Porsche Club). I’ll be making the Tour D’Orange run this New Years Day as well.

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If you like to drive hook up with the “Block” group. Especially for the “Tour D’Orange”. All corvette and they do a monthly drive. The drive is all there is with this group. Had some good fun with these guys.
H
:cheers:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/southern-california/4077561-jan-1st-mini-block-of-orange.html

[Performawheels]

Thanks. That’s the plan....


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[Saoirse32]

Thanks all. I’m going Tuesday to check her out. Taking it SLOWLY...


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[Z51JEFF]

Nice car at an excellent price,I’ve seen no mile cars go from between $35-40K but maybe that car does need some work besides being sorted out but as a buyer you are in a position to bargain a little. I’m in the minority in that I want the cleanest car possible and if it needed to be sorted out I’d do the work myself. I’d buy that car @ $30K and break out the tools. The seat bolsters look a little odd,I’ve never seen them that baggy. Good luck OP and any and all questions can be answered right here. I’ve had my car for 10 years now and still love it.

[Saoirse32]

So checked out the car today but did not drive it as it would start but then stall repeatedly after about 5-10 seconds. Seller claims Bosch fuel injectors done. I found some history of the car doing some simple research, and after I was told the owner bought the car at the auction...thoughts?

https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Archive/Event/Item/1990-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE-ZR1-195737


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[Dynomite]

So checked out the car today but did not drive it as it would start but then stall repeatedly after about 5-10 seconds. Seller claims Bosch fuel injectors done. I found some history of the car doing some simple research, and after I was told the owner bought the car at the auction...thoughts?

https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Archive/Event/Item/1990-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE-ZR1-195737
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Seems like Fuel Pumps as Marty cautioned.

OP
In case you missed the answer over on the other forum:

With 300 miles on a 90, it will likely need:
1-fuel pumps and sender, as I bet the existing one has so much rust you will need to clean the tank bottom.
2- 16 injectors
3- tires for driving
4- new fluids, all

Marty

[Ccmano]

Seems like Fuel Pumps as Marty cautioned.

Ditto... and then you can find out why the SES light is on, after that change the injectors.
H
:cheers:

[Saoirse32]

Agreed. They claimed they just put approximately $2k into it at Corvette Mikes. Waiting to see all the records...
Note: the SES light was not on now. Must have been when they took the original pics and/or after they did some maintenance


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[Z51JEFF]

It would be nice if the car would run but I’d still look at buying it,just curious as to what they will let it go for. If this place paid well over $30,000 for it they won’t want to put anymore money into the car but who’s going to go $30K if they at least can’t hear it idle? I wouldn’t take their word for the new injectors unless I could actually see a difference between what’s in the car and an OEM part. As stated It’s going to need some work and you might me looking at a few thousand $ in parts alone. Push them for $25,000,if somebody’s going to loose their @$$ on the car,if the buyer is smart it won’t be him. That dealer knows the car needs work,why else would it be parked out of sight? Interesting story here.

[Saoirse32]

Oh, and the radio was barely audible as well. Assuming the Bose system is toast


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[Dynomite]

Oh, and the radio was barely audible as well. Assuming the Bose system is toast


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I would more likely assume the Speaker Amps are toast which replacements from Nissan Max (95'-99) are very good and inexpensive replacements and an easy 15 minute job to replace. Nissan Max speaker amps I have gotten for $5 or $6 at Pull Your Parts for example.

Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564115)

[G-Sting]

OP,

For parts, Jerry's Gaskets (a ZR-1 owner and forum member) has a nice selection and comes highly recommended. You can get an idea of pricing, too, for what needs fixing. e.g.,

http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/fuel-pump-sender-assy-90-95-15a/

BTW, the original gatorback tires that are on that beauty could easily be sold and likely break even on replacing tires. ...or kept for show or resell.

Nothing like a Porsche Turbo (996 or later) for putting the power down for acceleration. But there's nothing like a ZR-1 for laying an eternal double stripe from a stop (among many other things).

All the best in your endeavor,
G

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Car is still a steal at it's current price even with ailments!
Perhaps with it running so poorly, you might be able to get them a bit lower.
Don't get into analysis paralysis, or you may find someone else steps up with a check book and flatbeds it home and fixes a few easy things and ends up with an essentially new 28 year old car for less than half of it's original sticker. It could have sold to the first owner for closer to 100k!
It likely "rolled" across the BJ auction and sold for much more than they are asking now.
Rarely, not impossible, but extremely rare, could there be any significant engine damage to a 300 mile LT-5.
If I didn't have so many here already, I would be all over it at that price.
Just sayin...............
Marty

[PhillipsLT5]

38.5 at B-J, most likely includes 10% fee

[Saoirse32]

It does


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[Meanmyz]

Car is still a steal at it's current price even with ailments!
Perhaps with it running so poorly, you might be able to get them a bit lower.
Don't get into analysis paralysis, or you may find someone else steps up with a check book and flatbeds it home and fixes a few easy things and ends up with an essentially new 28 year old car for less than half of it's original sticker. It could have sold to the first owner for closer to 100k!
It likely "rolled" across the BJ auction and sold for much more than they are asking now.
Rarely, not impossible, but extremely rare, could there be any significant engine damage to a 300 mile LT-5.
If I didn't have so many here already, I would be all over it at that price.
Just sayin...............
Marty

I agree with Marty wholeheartedly on this. Just looking at the pics, it looks gorgeous, but I agree that it is a good idea to look at it before buying. Don't get lost in nitpicking or tire kicking or you might lose out. I have read threads over on the other site where some guys go on and on about how you should stay away from low mile cars. Alot of times it is, I think, because they couldn't afford the asking price. And, sometimes it is good that the price is a bit higher...otherwise gems like this wouldnt stay that way very long.

[lfalzarano]

Don’t procrastinate, buy it. We all have run into minor issues with our cars over time and you just address them as they arise. It won’t implode after you buy it.


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[cruban]

I would more likely assume the Speaker Amps are toast which replacements from Nissan Max (95'-99) are very good and inexpensive replacements and an easy 15 minute job to replace. Nissan Max speaker amps I have gotten for $5 or $6 at Pull Your Parts for example.

Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564115)

Since this is a 90 , that solution is not exactly a 15 minute job. The Nissan amp are the newer style, while the 90 Vette's are the older style where the wires are soldered to the board. The amps still work fine, but you'll either have to do some soldering work or splice in the newer wiring connectors.

[cruban]

Don’t procrastinate, buy it. We all have run into minor issues with our cars over time and you just address them as they arise. It won’t implode after you buy it.


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While I would agree with the comment above and it is a good buy, it's only a good buy for the right person. If I could not do the work on the car myself, I might think twice. Paying someone else to correct issues can get expensive quickly, never mind the time involved. I would call and talk to the guys at Corvette Mikes, and get their opinion as well. They are pretty straight shooters. I have purchased very low mileage cars in the past and they all looked fantastic and the idea of it is fabulous but they all needed some TLC, some more than others. Good luck with it

[Saoirse32]

While I would agree with the comment above and it is a good buy, it's only a good buy for the right person. If I could not do the work on the car myself, I might think twice. Paying someone else to correct issues can get expensive quickly, never mind the time involved. I would call and talk to the guys at Corvette Mikes, and get their opinion as well. They are pretty straight shooters. I have purchased very low mileage cars in the past and they all looked fantastic and the idea of it is fabulous but they all needed some TLC, some more than others. Good luck with it



This sums up how I feel as well. I plan on calling them tomorrow. I know from past cars buying experience that fixes can get pricey very quickly and will forever eat into ones “profits.” Unless something drastically changed during ownership, I’d be buying to drive sparingly and then flip later after some years, assuming I’m correct in these ZR-1s massive potential for uptick...


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[Dynomite]

Since this is a 90 , that solution is not exactly a 15 minute job. The Nissan amp are the newer style, while the 90 Vette's are the older style where the wires are soldered to the board. The amps still work fine, but you'll either have to do some soldering work or splice in the newer wiring connectors.

The link I provided has the details on the wire harness front and rear from Doc Don for $5.....unless one wants to solder :)

Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564115)

While I would agree with the comment above and it is a good buy, it's only a good buy for the right person. If I could not do the work on the car myself, I might think twice. Paying someone else to correct issues can get expensive quickly, never mind the time involved. I would call and talk to the guys at Corvette Mikes, and get their opinion as well. They are pretty straight shooters. I have purchased very low mileage cars in the past and they all looked fantastic and the idea of it is fabulous but they all needed some TLC, some more than others. Good luck with it

I concur that it is not only hard to find someone near by to work on the ZR-1 it can also be expensive if an issue arises as in some rare situations. My 95' had an electrical issue under the plenum that kept blowing the INJ1 fuse (car was dead shortly after starting). Now after removing the plenum about five or six times (I have TB Coolant blocked) I finally soldered all original splices on main wire harness behind the drivers side Cam Cover and placed all wiring under plenum in separate split loom red tubing. Now that would have been expensive for sure to pay for labor and diagnostics. Oh.....ya....No More INJ1 fuses blowing :dancing

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

If the fuel pump (s) sender assembly has not been replaced BEFORE doing ANYTHING else on a low mile, long stored ZR-1, then that would be a VERY big no-no.

I will try to get pictures of the last dozen or more fuel pump assemblies that have been removed from low mile ZR-1's at our dealership.
All are nothing but rust flakes held together by the fuel tubes.
Each one we do seems worse than the one before it.
I will soon do the assembly in my car just because of the horrific messes that we have encountered in others.

Is is not specific to ZR-1's. Most all C-4's by now should have had the unit replaced. It is one of the most common repairs we make on C-4's, having done hundreds of them.

Remove the assembly.

Pump out the fuel and dispose of it properly (pricey!!!)

The ZR-1 tank has a plastic liner, so diligent wiping with many shop towels will remove enough rust to fill a coffee can or more, all from the frame of the sender / pump assembly.

Remove the fuel Filter.

Flush the tank to filter line thoroughly.

Flush the filter to fuel rail line.

Install new filter.

Install complete new sender/ pump assembly.

Now, if it just had new injectors installed; Remove them; Send them to FIC for cleaning and testing.

Put everything back together.

Fill with fresh fuel.

Good to now start.

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.

:cheers:
Marty

[Paul Workman]

If the fuel pump (s) sender assembly has not been replaced BEFORE doing ANYTHING else on a low mile, long stored ZR-1, then that would be a VERY big no-no.

I will try to get pictures of the last dozen or more fuel pump assemblies that have been removed from low mile ZR-1's at our dealership.
All are nothing but rust flakes held together by the fuel tubes.
Each one we do seems worse than the one before it.
I will soon do the assembly in my car just because of the horrific messes that we have encountered in others.

Is is not specific to ZR-1's. Most all C-4's by now should have had the unit replaced. It is one of the most common repairs we make on C-4's, having done hundreds of them.

Remove the assembly.

Pump out the fuel and dispose of it properly (pricey!!!)

The ZR-1 tank has a plastic liner, so diligent wiping with many shop towels will remove enough rust to fill a coffee can or more, all from the frame of the sender / pump assembly.

Remove the fuel Filter.

Flush the tank to filter line thoroughly.

Flush the filter to fuel rail line.

Install new filter.

Install complete new sender/ pump assembly.

Now, if it just had new injectors installed; Remove them; Send them to FIC for cleaning and testing.

Put everything back together.

Fill with fresh fuel.

Good to now start.

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.

:cheers:
Marty

:cheers: Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)

[Dynomite]

:cheers: Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)

Ethanol and rust in gas tanks (http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-c10-zg1000-general-chat-and-tech/ethanol-and-rust-in-gas-tank/)

Pure gasoline will not absorb water but Ethanol will absorb water :p

[Z51JEFF]

I remember this car from a few years ago,it had a twin that has less miles than this one. Honestly can’t understand how it passed emissions when the thing won’t run,seems a little odd.

[Hog]

:cheers: Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)
If this car just had gas from 1990 in the tank, it shouldn't have had any Ethanol in it. But thast not likely the case.
The big problems with Ethanol come when a vehicle/device, has been run for some time, then all of a sudden it gets a dose of Ethanol fuel.
Ethanol is hygroscopic(attracts and absorbs water) while gasoline is hydrophobic(repels water-although the following study shows that water can still be absorbed into E-0 or 100% gasoline. And that the E-10(10% Ethanol gasoline-which was advertised as E-10, but actually measured out at E8.3-E8.8 across 3 confirmatory tests) can absorb water at the rate of about 3 tsp/gallon. There are products that can help.
https://cropwatch.unl.edu/documents/Ethanol%20and%20Water%20Contamination%2009052014.p df


So basically if I had a vehicle with 100,000 miles on it and filled up the tank with E-85(85% Ethanol) if there was any water in that tank, it probably wont be there for long.






Whenever GM went to the newer injectors in the LT5 is when
for the 1990 LT5 Ac/Delco is now making a new injector under their "Professional" series of products.
1990, 1991 and 1992
p/n 19239663 Delco p/n 2173407 if for a Primary US$58.79
p/n 19239662 Delco p/n 2173406 Secondary US$63.79
These new Professional series injectors are also listed for the 4.5 liter Cadillac Allante engine.


then for 1993-1995 only the OEM injectors are listed, GM p/n 17109952 Ac/Delco p/n 217280 and Rock Auto only has 1 available.

Rock Auto also has the dual pump sending unit for the 1990-1995 LT5 cars under "ACDelco Fuel Tank Sending Units 19180770" for US$278.79 and Summit Racing also has them for US$370.97. Amazon for US$299






https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ado-fls1102.jpg?rep=False
The 1993 and up ZR-1s should be fine for E10 usage.


If this car does have a fuel contamination issue, the fuel filter will show that, but it probably has been changed. It would be cool to cut the original open and check out the filter media.

[cruban]

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.

:cheers:
Marty

Also keep in mind that this car "Has" to pass emissions in order to be registered and titled in CA, then there is the 8.5% sales tax (depending on where you are at) and licensing fees. Also, any vehicle under 7500 miles is considered new in CA, so there is that hassle to deal with (the dealer may mitigate). So he's easily another 3500.00 in just that, then the repair costs up front to get it ready. So this car just went from 30k to 38,500 (more or less). The OP said this was an investment, so given any real investment you would do to make at least 20% so now we're at about 45k resale minimum to be worth it. While you have the car you have insurance and storage costs and normal maintenance, etc as well while you wait on the resale value to go up (cost???). I am certain the Marty could sell this at his dealership for that, but will the OP have the same luck.....

That's the real decision here.

Everyone has an opinion, the only right one is yours....

[lfalzarano]

Buying a Classic Car Is Almost Never a Good Investment. Classic cars are beautiful, fun, and super cool. They're also really bad investments unless you're way into the hobby aspect of it. ... According to Kyle Stock at Bloomberg Business, there's rarely any money to gain in the vintage car game.

Buy it if you want to drive a legend and enjoy what you can buy!


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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Buying a Classic Car Is Almost Never a Good Investment. Classic cars are beautiful, fun, and super cool. They're also really bad investments unless you're way into the hobby aspect of it. ... According to Kyle Stock at Bloomberg Business, there's rarely any money to gain in the vintage car game.

Buy it if you want to drive a legend and enjoy what you can buy!


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I used to provide folks investments when I was a banker and a stock broker.
I now provide dream cars whose ROI is measured in MOS (Miles Of Smiles),
and how great they make you feel.
The car we are discussing certainly fits that description and would be well bought and poised for modest appreciation while delivering maximum MOS.
Somebody who feels the same way is going to ride in and pull out their checkbook.
Oh, and I have helped quite a few friends sell mid year cars that they have owned and ENJOYED for quite some time, and make a VERY GOOD ROI. My bet is Kyle may not know a 427 435 from a phone booth. If he did, he would not make such a foolish generalization.
Happy New Year to all!!!
( and the way the market is going, take out some of those returns and live a little ) Your last suit has no pockets, and I never saw an armored car following a hearse!
:cheers:
Marty

[cruban]

I used to provide folks investments when I was a banker and a stock broker.
I now provide dream cars whose ROI is measured in MOS (Miles Of Smiles),
and how great they make you feel.
The car we are discussing certainly fits that description and would be well bought and poised for modest appreciation while delivering maximum MOS.
Somebody who feels the same way is going to ride in and pull out their checkbook.
Oh, and I have helped quite a few friends sell mid year cars that they have owned and ENJOYED for quite some time, and make a VERY GOOD ROI. My bet is Kyle may not know a 427 435 from a phone booth. If he did, he would not make such a foolish generalization.
Happy New Year to all!!!
( and the way the market is going, take out some of those returns and live a little ) Your last suit has no pockets, and I never saw an armored car following a hearse!
:cheers:
Marty

So true they made a song.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U13_pP7p52E

[Saoirse32]

Need Help:

I’ll attach the photos, but I’m trying to decipher some of the numbers taken in these photos from my PPI on the potential vehicle I’m currently in negotiations for a possible purchase. Can you guys explain these to me? I did look on the registry but looks like maybe the numbers don’t match up (although, I’m sure I’m just reading it incorrectly). Coming from the Porsche world, marching numbers are easy for me to figure out since I have the experience and books to do so. I’ve also attached the window sticker for reference and noted that it was delivered to GM’s main office, not a particular dealership (don’t know what that means either). Thanks in advance (again). Please forgive my rookie ***!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2c92d6e20cae336aaafe75c316cdeacc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/d935094e134fa0154da9a7c0c94a6654.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/b03b4f6c448f730c2841d481522d6838.jpg

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[Corvettes White]

A little advice with a grain of salt.

Second photo, is likely a manufacturing control number for Mercury Marine, the company that built the engine for GM. There is a number stamped next to be bell housing that will have then ending digits of the vin on it, 01278. Hard to see and find. This will tell you if the motor came originally with the engine. I tried to attached is a photo example but could not.

The transmission tag is indicating manufacturer in West Germany is correct for the car. Later replacement transmissions were built in the US.

George

[Ccmano]

None of the photos provided are relevant to determining “matching” numbers.
The vin is stamped on several places on the chassis. It’s stamped on the back passenger side corner of the block, but very difficult to see on a stock car with heat shields in place. Also stamped on the transmission case, back bottom left side. You really only need to make sure the chassis, engine and transmission match. The following link gives all the exact locations.

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Information/General/VINNumbers.aspx

The window sticker is likely a collector replacement reprint provided by NCM. I can’t comment on the delivery dealer question.

I believe the top photo is the differential, won’t have the vin but does show a 02-07-90 build date.
The next photo is the engine serial number (not the vin)
Third photo the ZF id tag on the trans. Does not contain the vin but shows correct version for a 1990.

I’m sure others will chime in with additional info.

[32valvesftw]

The car appears to have some oil pan gasket seepage, mine did too and was corrected by retightening the bolts in the correct order.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Post number 42 accurately describes the location of the VIN derivative, i.e. abbreviated VIN that is stamped on a boss on the rear right of the block beneath the head.
I can spot mine with a flashlight and an a telescoping inspection mirror.


The fact that the car was delivered to GM is a plus not a minus.
It likely was used for some internal purpose, possibly, marketing, display show, etc. With only 300 some miles it most likely was not used as a magazine or test car, nor a perk for an employee, as both would have far more miles than we see on this one.


For weeks now, even though you stated ASAP in your initial post, you have been awaiting results of a PPI. You now must have those results.
I find it typical that whoever did it, knew not where to convincingly validate a numbers match motor, but such is life. My first two NCRS flight judging outings had judges unsure of the location of the VIN derivative, so it is not a knock on the skill of the inspector. They kept looking at the spot where it is on a VIN P and at first thought I had a replacement motor.


At any rate, We work on low mile ZR-1's quite often. As I said earlier, I wish you could get the car to me, as we would likely have it straightened out quickly.


I cannot think of a reason other than flood, that would cause me your level of concern on a 300 mile car priced in the twenties. Given the mileage, price, and condition from photos on the dealer site, that car is an excellent opportunity!


Pull the trigger, and get it before someone else wakes up and beats you to it. I am very surprised that it is still available.


Feel free to email me a copy of your PPI and I would be happy to review it and share any further thoughts or suggestions.
Marty

[Saoirse32]

Thanks Marty. Appreciate it. It just went into the PPI only recently (trying to coordinate with the shop and my schedule) and of course, it wasn’t running properly (bad fuel pump) so I couldn’t even drive it. We’re getting there, thanks for everyone’s help and patience!


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