1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play

[GOLDCYLON]

Now that I have your attention. Stay tuned...I ordered some non error amber bulbs yesterday to test my plug and play theory. I will post up my results after they arrive.

[GOLDCYLON]

They work now I have upgraded my 91 I am trying to figure out how to get to the 90 bulbs lol. Seriously how do you access the MY 90 bulbs!!!! If anybody is interested in upgrading their amber 1157 turn signals bulbs I have figured it out.

WITHOUT cutting or splicing resisters. True plug and play. The left bulb is a stock amber bulb. The right blub is a LED amber bulb replacement. It does not look like it but the right bulb IS signifcantly brighter. left blinker , right blinker and hazard lights work great. I run the web electrics DRL kit so my turn signals act like DRLs for safety.

http://i.imgur.com/MnItntY.jpg

I sent -=JEFF=- the video as Imgur does not do videos just img and gifs well....at least I think so... I think. If somebody can host the 8 sec video hit me with an email address and I will sent it to you. GC

[jss06c6]

Definitely see brighter on passenger side (unless you're in the UK!)

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[GOLDCYLON]

Definitely see brighter on passenger side (unless you're in the UK!)

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The driver side is brighter it was hard to capture that. You will have to trust me on that. Or not. GC

[jss06c6]

I'll trust you!!

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[Bparker3024]

Do the "error free" leds have resistors built in? I am curious as I would like to do the same thing. Did your turn signals still blink at the correct rate?

[GOLDCYLON]

Do the "error free" leds have resistors built in? I am curious as I would like to do the same thing. Did your turn signals still blink at the correct rate?

Yes and yes. I learned about these bulbs when I was upgrading my wife's Mercedes Benz SLK. It was a 2006 model and had an electronic DIC. You could not just use ANY LED. You have to look for bulb choices that use the words non error or error free. That's LED speak for internally resisted. You still have to watch out what your buying because some EBAY sellers use the words non error but along with the bulbs include standard resistors.

[GOLDCYLON]

Here's are the style of 1157s I bought (Sealed style) protecting the SMDs from water intrusion (well hopefully) since these are in front and low on the front of the car. These look like the bulbs I bought from the backup lights and shared on the install for the 90. Keep in mind I use an electronic flasher unit not the original mechanical flasher. You will still need one if those for these non error bulbs to work.

http://i.imgur.com/biHuRFt.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

The eBay auction I bought these bulbs from was 311910306778. Other manufacturers I'm sure will work as well but basically everything is from China these days anyway. I suggest you buy them in amber vs. white as the bright white LEDs will tend to washout the amber yellow lens on the car. GC

[Bparker3024]

Keep in mind I use an electronic flasher unit not the original mechanical flasher.


Now that's what I'm talking about. Where did you find one of those. I was able to do this with my motorcycles before. The electronic flasher, if I'm understanding you correctly, makes it so you wouldn't need resistors of any kind for the turn signals with LEDs.

[G8nightman]

They work now I have upgraded my 91 I am trying to figure out how to get to the 90 bulbs lol. Seriously how do you access the MY 90 bulbs!!!! If anybody is interested in upgrading their amber 1157 turn signals bulbs I have figured it out.



WITHOUT cutting or splicing resisters. True plug and play. The left bulb is a stock amber bulb. The right blub is a LED amber bulb replacement. It does not look like it but the right bulb IS signifcantly brighter. left blinker , right blinker and hazard lights work great. I run the web electrics DRL kit so my turn signals act like DRLs for safety.



http://i.imgur.com/MnItntY.jpg



I sent -=JEFF=- the video as Imgur does not do videos just img and gifs well....at least I think so... I think. If somebody can host the 8 sec video hit me with an email address and I will sent it to you. GC



You can host the video on YouTube.


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[G-Sting]

Does anyone know if these will also work "plug and play" for a '94Z? The number in the manual for the turn signal bulbs is 2057NA.

Thanks.

[GOLDCYLON]

Now that's what I'm talking about. Where did you find one of those. I was able to do this with my motorcycles before. The electronic flasher, if I'm understanding you correctly, makes it so you wouldn't need resistors of any kind for the turn signals with LEDs.



Correct. I've been running LED tailights for 10 years the key is the electronic 2 blade flasher you can get those at any auto parts store

[GOLDCYLON]

Does anyone know if these will also work "plug and play" for a '94Z? The number in the manual for the turn signal bulbs is 2057NA.

Thanks.

Yes the form factor for an 1157 is identical (pins arrangement) for a 2057 the 2057 is simply a brighter bulb. You will still need an electronic flasher although.

[GOLDCYLON]

You can host the video on YouTube.


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yep I just did !

[Tripler]

Youtube is still free to upload video . Photobucket are the ones asking for $399 ...
;)

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[GOLDCYLON]

Youtube is still free to upload video . Photobucket are the ones asking for $399 ...
;)

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Yep that's right something new to learn

[GOLDCYLON]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4E_GuM0rxA

[G-Sting]

Yes the form factor for an 1157 is identical (pins arrangement) for a 2057 the 2057 is simply a brighter bulb. You will still need an electronic flasher although.

Got it, thank you.

Looks like it's working nicely on your Z!

[GOLDCYLON]

They are however getting the bulbs installed on the 90 is a bear. If anybody has a tip please share it. It might be overall difficult for me as my 90 was converted to a 91 body style. But I am unsure on my 91 it took 5 mins


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[GOLDCYLON]

So while it works great in the day.... When the headlights are on the turn signals error. GRRRR. I consulted with -=JEFF=- and now he has the plug and play solution.


For a while the temporary solution was to pull the side marker turn signal bulbs and this mod will work. Jeff now has a plug an play solution that I have been testing on my car for over a month now that allows the amber side markers to blink as well as the front signal LED bulbs


Here is the plug and play side marker prototype that -=JEFF=- made to solve the side marker turn signal error problem. Jeff used GM connectors so there are no connection issues.


https://i.imgur.com/kJVkIda.jpg


Here is the only two connectors to have to worry about one end extends from the units and plugs in the factory harness. The other is the LED bulb end which inserts in the light housing. The black wire is simply grounded.


https://i.imgur.com/3mYsVXp.jpg


Here is the unit banjoed into place below the light housing. I used zip ties and heat shrink wrap to protect the connection end into the factory sidemarkers wiring socket.


https://i.imgur.com/JotdPEb.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

I highly recommend the Amber and Red color bulbs for the side markers for the front and the rear.


Part numbers from Superbrightleds.com are


24-AHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED -Miniature Wedge Retrofit -Amber


24-RHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED - Minatare Wedge Retrofit -Red


Can you use the white LEDS? Yes but they are so bright they tend to wash out the Factory red and amber lenses. So I went to the colored LED wedge bulbs and they work great.



https://i.imgur.com/gsDcQXH.jpg



https://i.imgur.com/2F00OMX.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

Once I am more mobile I will work on these sets again

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[GOLDCYLON]

Once I am more mobile I will work on these sets again

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NP -=JEFF=- I will need two more :)

[-=Jeff=-]

NP -=JEFF=- I will need two more :)



Yep you are first on the list when I am back in action


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[GOLDCYLON]

Most excellent

[Paul Workman]

Youtube is still free to upload video . Photobucket are the ones asking for $399 ...
;)

"ASKING FOR"... Kinda like kidnapping and "ASKING" for RANSOM! Doan git me started!:mad::mad:

[GOLDCYLON]

"ASKING FOR"... Kinda like kidnapping and "ASKING" for RANSOM! Doan git me started!:mad::mad:



A gun and a mask are involved so I moved my photo hosting efforts over to imgur.com

[Paul Workman]

Just FYI regarding LEDs and resistors, in case 'lectric chit' isn't your forte' and you're perhaps confused about whether or not this or that LED has or should have appropriate resistance built into the (automotive) device(s).:confused:

The (discrete) Light Emitting Diode (LED "chip") itself, except for giving off light, has the same electrical properties of any common "diode" device: They act like a "vacuum check valve"; only in an electrical circuit, allowing current to flow quite freely in one direction only; and because of this, diodes are sometimes referred to as a "switch".

But, in addition to very low (forward bias) resistance, LED chips are very limited as to the max current flow. Low resistance, but low max current capability would be a disaster for the little diode chip if not for a resistor placed in series with the diode chip, a resistance specifically chosen to limit the current flow in a particular (automotive in this case) application.

So, LED bulb replacements for dash light bulbs are typically packaged with an internal series resistor to limit the current to that which allows the LED to light up, but not so much as to destroy the diode*.

*More sophisticated LED packages include voltage regulators and even more complexity beyond a mere resistor to allow the particular LED device to be used in a wider array of applications and voltage environments.

However, some more complex automotive circuits, e.g., headlights and turn signals, etc depend on the original bulbs; in particular their current draw, or the fact the OE bulb will pass current in either direction! So, in those applications, there needs to be a "load" resistor included in the LED package, OR a relay circuit installed - depending on the application.

A "load" resistor replaces the filament resistance as result of removing the OE bulb. Such a resistor is installed across what was the 12V input terminal for the OE bulb and ground. (This load resistor is in addition to the series resistor installed to limit the current through the LED chip itself.) As far as the rest of the circuit is concerned, the load resistor looks like the original bulb is still operational. The majority of the current flows through the load resistor like normal, and only a trickle flows to the LED. As result, the turn signals or fog lamps, etc. co-exist with the LED substitute. Everybody wins!:dancing

Using a load resistor has an advantage in its simplicity; plug and play. The disadvantages include there is NO reduction in circuit current, and depending on the application, there is a lot of heat generated. Use of a load resistor requires consideration for heat: which can be significant.

Where a relay might restore functionality to other devices in the circuit very efficiently, the load resistor's heat may not be all bad. Consider one of the drawbacks of LED headlights is the lack of heat LEDs generate. OE bulbs kept the headlight free of ice in winter - especially in storms or freezing spray from other traffic.

Designing a way to take advantage of the load resistance heat - using it to keep the headlights defrosted... I'll leave it to someone to figure a way. (But! You heard it here first!!):cheers:

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Just FYI regarding LEDs and resistors, in case 'lectric chit' isn't your forte' and you're perhaps confused about whether or not this or that LED has or should have appropriate resistance built into the (automotive) device(s).:confused:

The (discrete) Light Emitting Diode (LED "chip") itself, except for giving off light, has the same electrical properties of any common "diode" device: They act like a "vacuum check valve"; only in an electrical circuit, allowing current to flow quite freely in one direction only; and because of this, diodes are sometimes referred to as a "switch".

But, in addition to very low (forward bias) resistance, LED chips are very limited as to the max current flow. Low resistance, but low max current capability would be a disaster for the little diode chip if not for a resistor placed in series with the diode chip, a resistance specifically chosen to limit the current flow in a particular (automotive in this case) application.

So, LED bulb replacements for dash light bulbs are typically packaged with an internal series resistor to limit the current to that which allows the LED to light up, but not so much as to destroy the diode*.

*More sophisticated LED packages include voltage regulators and even more complexity beyond a mere resistor to allow the particular LED device to be used in a wider array of applications and voltage environments.

However, some more complex automotive circuits, e.g., headlights and turn signals, etc depend on the original bulbs; in particular their current draw, or the fact the OE bulb will pass current in either direction! So, in those applications, there needs to be a "load" resistor included in the LED package, OR a relay circuit installed - depending on the application.

A "load" resistor replaces the filament resistance as result of removing the OE bulb. Such a resistor is installed across what was the 12V input terminal for the OE bulb and ground. (This load resistor is in addition to the series resistor installed to limit the current through the LED chip itself.) As far as the rest of the circuit is concerned, the load resistor looks like the original bulb is still operational. The majority of the current flows through the load resistor like normal, and only a trickle flows to the LED. As result, the turn signals or fog lamps, etc. co-exist with the LED substitute. Everybody wins!:dancing

Using a load resistor has an advantage in its simplicity; plug and play. The disadvantages include there is NO reduction in circuit current, and depending on the application, there is a lot of heat generated. Use of a load resistor requires consideration for heat: which can be significant.

Where a relay might restore functionality to other devices in the circuit very efficiently, the load resistor's heat may not be all bad. Consider one of the drawbacks of LED headlights is the lack of heat LEDs generate. OE bulbs kept the headlight free of ice in winter - especially in storms or freezing spray from other traffic.

Designing a way to take advantage of the load resistance heat - using it to keep the headlights defrosted... I'll leave it to someone to figure a way. (But! You heard it here first!!):cheers:

Thank you!
I can now understand that!
However, I guess I will just stick to regular bulbs in this car.
But now I know why, I just can't stick in a darn bulb, ahh or switch or diode, oh LED, and be done with it
:cheers:
Marty

[GOLDCYLON]

Update with red marker LED picture.