Poll: How many miles before solenoid failed?

[Paul Workman]

Please, this poll is attempting to determine an approximate Mean Time Between failures. Therefore it is limited to actual failures and repairs and not to preventative maintenance (PM) repair intervals.

Thank you!

[lfalzarano]

70,000 miles or 25 years, whichever comes first[emoji482]


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[We Gone]

Never had one fail.
90 30k miles
91 50K miles
93 10k miles

[-=Jeff=-]

I assume starter Solenoid? I did mine around 60K

[rush91]

I refuse to answer, based on Murphys Law.......I know it's a matter of time.

[4CamJon]

I just replaced mine at 50K.

[spork2367]

80k on my 1990

[secondchance]

5 years and about 50,000 miles.

[dredgeguy]

I am at 84,700 miles and all is original....better not jinx me! Like the old saying, "What, me worry"....I live in Wazoo land=D>

[Bearly Flying]

Had to repair my 91 at 100,000 km (62,000 miles) in 2015.

Put in larger contacts from Chrysler, used in the Cummins diesel Nippon Denso starter

[lfalzarano]

New ones are available on EBay for $196. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Remy-Starter-Chevrolet-Corvette-ZR1-LT5-1990-91-92-93-94-95-New-NOS-/251400500053

Completely rebuilt (not fixed) are available from Jerry's Gaskets for $214, which includes the core charge. Free return and get $30 back with return of the old core.


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[secondchance]

I am at 84,700 miles and all is original....better not jinx me! Like the old saying, "What, me worry"....I live in Wazoo land=D>

Yup! WAZOO land is a great place to be for ZR-1s.

[QB93Z]

Your survey needs more choices.


My Yellow 1994 has 152,000 miles, starter never touched as far as I know. My Quasar Blue 1993 has 122,000 miles, starter never touched as far as I know.


I think it is a problem with GM starter design. I had a 1987 Trans Am (same era as C4) that had starter solenoid issues at ~ 120,000 miles. My son has a 1988 Firebird that has starter solenoid issues right now at >100,000 miles.


Jim

[Paul Workman]

Wow! Had no idea so many went so far without dying or I would have expanded the poll.

No problem. Just post the mileage and I'll post a summary once the poll has run its course.:-D

[ZR1North]

That's quite a range in reliability! After a half dozen "no-starts" in 2012/13, I replaced mine at 37,000 miles after trying all the mods to reduce resistance throughout the starter circuit to minimize the problem. I've since removed all the mods, as I think you're just delaying the inevitable (solenoid replacement) once you've experienced a no-start or two.

[Dynomite]

That's quite a range in reliability! After a half dozen "no-starts" in 2012/13, I replaced mine at 37,000 miles after trying all the mods to reduce resistance throughout the starter circuit to minimize the problem. I've since removed all the mods, as I think you're just delaying the inevitable (solenoid replacement) once you've experienced a no-start or two.

One of the reconditioning items I always do on a ZR-1 no matter the mileage is the Starter Solenoid........as well as install the Relay to reduce the current through the Clutch Switch to the Starter Solenoid.

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/bac49725-6086-4f07-a929-9f1f498e4d50.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/bac49725-6086-4f07-a929-9f1f498e4d50.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/e8886408-e5b8-40d3-a5d2-199e22f85e0a.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/e8886408-e5b8-40d3-a5d2-199e22f85e0a.jpg.html)

The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.
Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/95a2d94c-6e14-4206-ab39-e157c17fc6a2.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/95a2d94c-6e14-4206-ab39-e157c17fc6a2.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/e6b04516-3ebb-49ab-9f32-1da552901435.jpg

Starter Rebuild (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-8.html#post1587653761)

Fixing the LT5 Starter is a rather small issue........But......You have to remove the Plenum and Coils to get at the Starter :)

[Paul Workman]

One of the reconditioning items I always do on a ZR-1 no matter the mileage is the Starter Solenoid........as well as install the Relay to reduce the current through the Clutch Switch to the Starter Solenoid.

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/bac49725-6086-4f07-a929-9f1f498e4d50.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/bac49725-6086-4f07-a929-9f1f498e4d50.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/e8886408-e5b8-40d3-a5d2-199e22f85e0a.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/e8886408-e5b8-40d3-a5d2-199e22f85e0a.jpg.html)

The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.
Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/95a2d94c-6e14-4206-ab39-e157c17fc6a2.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/95a2d94c-6e14-4206-ab39-e157c17fc6a2.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/e6b04516-3ebb-49ab-9f32-1da552901435.jpg

Starter Rebuild (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-8.html#post1587653761)

Fixing the LT5 Starter is a rather small issue........But......You have to remove the Plenum and Coils to get at the Starter :)

Good point, Cliff. Thanks for the photos too!

Actually, I believe the "Achilles heel" is that copper ring and those "L"-shaped contact posts that become pitted and erroded; not the windings of the electromagnets so much. New "L" contacts can be had for around $10, depending on the source.

The solenoid kit, including the armature itself AND the "L" contacts is more. But, as Cliff points out, unless that copper ring on the armature is beyond repair, a little emery paper will restore it like new and save you several $$.

Furthermore, depending on where you get that armature 'kit', that skinny thrust pin (see Cliff's photo) may not be the proper length. The pin length affects the engagement of the starter pinion with the ring gear: kinda important, doanchaknow....

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi my starter started to play up with in 4 week's of purchase only when hot as in slow driving pulled the starter out cleaned all contact as they were like new fit a slave solenoid also gave the starter motor quick clean and lube works well now the starter motors are a Toyota starter and are used in a lot of equipment and the contacts wear out we replace them and the starters good to go again we just check the brushes I often fit slave solenoid to the equipment also especially with the after market copy of the starter Glen Collins

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Just one more item with the contacts when you tighten nuts that hold the contacts it can twist the contact a little so I us a flat punch and tap it flat again Glen

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[bhedberg]

The problem I had was the female connector on the purple wire that connects to the starter. The metal in the connector is bent to produce a spring action against the male spade connector on the starter when it is plugged in. Over time, and in the harsh environment of the valley, that metal clip loses its spring tension and does not maintain reliable contact. When I opened up the plenum and disconnected the purple wire, there was no resistance at all to the connector coming off. That could explain the no start when hot and then starting again after partially cooling off. The metal clip can be released from the plastic of the connector and re-formed (bent) to reestablish some spring tension in order to provide a positive connection. As a backup, I always carry a "starter stick" I got from Gordon years ago. It is a 3/16 inch steel rod about 30 inches long. When experiencing the no start, the rod can reach the starter with the hood up and probing behind the engine at the firewall. The method is to hold the key in the start position and tap tap on the starter with the starting stick. (easier with 2 people) The vibration from the tapping can reestablish contact and get the engine started. Release the key to the on position after it fires up. Of course there are other failure modes that produce the no start condition but I'd guess there have been lots of perfectly good starters tossed because of the connector. Some may have replaced a starter only to have the condition return soon after.

[Paul Workman]

The problem I had was the female connector on the purple wire that connects to the starter. The metal in the connector is bent to produce a spring action against the male spade connector on the starter when it is plugged in. Over time, and in the harsh environment of the valley, that metal clip loses its spring tension and does not maintain reliable contact. When I opened up the plenum and disconnected the purple wire, there was no resistance at all to the connector coming off. That could explain the no start when hot and then starting again after partially cooling off. The metal clip can be released from the plastic of the connector and re-formed (bent) to reestablish some spring tension in order to provide a positive connection. As a backup, I always carry a "starter stick" I got from Gordon years ago. It is a 3/16 inch steel rod about 30 inches long. When experiencing the no start, the rod can reach the starter with the hood up and probing behind the engine at the firewall. The method is to hold the key in the start position and tap tap on the starter with the starting stick. (easier with 2 people) The vibration from the tapping can reestablish contact and get the engine started. Release the key to the on position after it fires up. Of course there are other failure modes that produce the no start condition but I'd guess there have been lots of perfectly good starters tossed because of the connector. Some may have replaced a starter only to have the condition return soon after.

That is a very good point! Thanks for posting this!

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

My ZR-1 had less than 24000 miles on it when I pulled the starter Glen Collins

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[KFoster]

57000. Working on it now with some paint and porting. Maybe not such a good design. And that's being polite.


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[RICHARD TILL]

80k and 119k on my 90 #2161.

[Paul Workman]

My ZR-1 had less than 24000 miles on it when I pulled the starter Glen Collins

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Wow! That early!

Well, Glenn, go ahead and place your vote in the 25k category - close enough, I recon.

AND, if anyone else posted but DID NOT "vote" in one of the categories, feel free to do so. It'll embellish the visual aspect of the poll.

Originally my intent was to establish a MEAN and a STANDARD DEVIATION, and even a MEAN TIME (MILES) BETWEEN FAILURES (aka MTBF) - and maybe still can, if there's more data.

Well, this is interesting! It's still early; we'll let it run a while longer until we get more data to develop some kind of statistical analysis going here.

Thanks to all that have responded so far with their experiences!

[Vette73]

How do you think I felt? After Pete ported my inj housings and plenum I go to start the car, nothing.....Had to take everything off again and change the starter..Mierda !!!!! Car had 43K...