ZF fluid change time!

[billschroeder5842]

My trans is shifting harder than it should so I think a fluid change is in order--- the car has 70k on it and God knows how much on the fluid.

So, my research says that AMSOIL is a safe, dependable, no risk solution.

Can I change it in the driveway or is it just best to take it somewhere where there is a lift/pit and the disposal is the other guys problem?

I'm happy to spin the wrench and prefer to do my own work, but I'm old enough to weight risk/reward.

[garyhugo]

You can do it. It helps a lot to have a second person to snake the funnel and hose you make down between the engine and firewall when refilling.I do it every 15,000 miles so it can't be too hard.

[Demps]

Take out the fill plug first. I think it's a --mm BMW/vw tool at auto parts. Use a crescent wrench (or open end wrench) to get right up to fill/drain plug so as not to round off plug. Pipe fitting tape or thread sealant on install. Filling is a bear but the $5 hand pump at auto parts work great. 2.2qts.
Ted

Gary is correct below on size--deleted to not confuse anyone.

[garyhugo]

I believe it's 17MM allen for drain and fill. May want a couple new plugs handy if the old ones are messed up. A new small pipe wrench with sharp teeth will get the plugs out if there stripped. The pump for refilling is a good idea if by yourself.

[Roadster]

Can I change it in the driveway or is it just best to take it somewhere where there is a lift/pit and the disposal is the other guys problem?

IMO you would be better off having access to a lift rather than laying on your back trying to loosen those drain & fill plugs. They can be a real bear to say the least. And on your back it is really difficult to get them loose, especially after years of being in there. As mentioned above it would be good insurance to have the extra plugs before you start the job, or getting it done elsewhere. Check out the link below for the plug part #'s which are available at your local VW dealer and really priced well. Have fun!!!

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27276


Another alternative tool to have for the plugs.....get yourself a 17mm 3/8" drive Allen socket to fit the plug.

[Billy Mild]

I didn't know you were supposed to use thread sealer on the plug. I will do this next time so it doesn't leak.

[Jagdpanzer]

Use some Permatex anti seize on the plug when reinstalling and shouldn't leak plus it will come out easier the next time. Snug it up good but don't over tighten.

[Bob Eyres]

Use some Permatex anti seize on the plug when reinstalling and shouldn't leak plus it will come out easier the next time. Snug it up good but don't over tighten.

That's the ticket:thumbsup:

[billschroeder5842]

As mentioned above it would be good insurance to have the extra plugs before you start the job, or getting it done elsewhere. Check out the link below for the plug part #'s which are available at your local VW dealer and really priced well.

Well, I have the only ONE in the entire Dallas Fort Worth Metroplex.

I called up the local VW guy and they said that the only one (one) and the shared computer said it was in McKinney Texas. While a good size town, McKinney in BFE compared to the rest of our urban sprawl.

But, I did not mind taking the road trip this afternoon as it was about 30 miles and I was able to have some fun with a C6 and a CTS. The Vettes clearly had the pulling power over the Caddy as we hit above the century marke more than a few times.

So, with one, I have to have a 50% success rate on the old plugs. I'll give it a shot this weekend a see what happens.

[Roadster]

Well, I have the only ONE in the entire Dallas Fort Worth Metroplex.

I called up the local VW guy and they said that the only one (one) and the shared computer said it was in McKinney Texas. While a good size town, McKinney in BFE compared to the rest of our urban sprawl.

But, I did not mind taking the road trip this afternoon as it was about 30 miles and I was able to have some fun with a C6 and a CTS. The Vettes clearly had the pulling power over the Caddy as we hit above the century marke more than a few times.

So, with one, I have to have a 50% success rate on the old plugs. I'll give it a shot this weekend a see what happens.


Sounds like you had fun getting the only one!!!

I have extras, so if you want to hold off, or you get stuck getting both plugs out, PM me your address and will be glad to mail one down to you....

[billschroeder5842]

Sounds like you had fun getting the only one!!!

I have extras, so if you want to hold off, or you get stuck getting both plugs out, PM me your address and will be glad to mail one down to you....

Yes, it was. The posted speed limit is 75 so you can get a bit of a running start so the jump up from 75-115 is easy (frankly TOO easy) in the Z.

Thanks for the offer- Hopefully I wont need to PM you!

[Roadster]

Yes, it was. The posted speed limit is 75 so you can get a bit of a running start so the jump up from 75-115 is easy (frankly TOO easy) in the Z.

Thanks for the offer- Hopefully I wont need to PM you!

Many times on the road to Dallas, & Ok City, in sleepers w/UPS. Only thing was our tractors were maxed out @70mph unless we were going down hill....lol I can only imagine what it would be like to run at an extended time in the Z at those (115) speeds. Around here it would only be for a few seconds if that on a deserted road and in the middle of the night.....

Good luck on the fluid change......

[Racinfan83]

I did mine by myself and on jack stands. 17mm hex which is not hard to find. Like they said - remove fill plug first. I used the funnel and garden hose method to fill it back up. Really wasn't a bad job and yes the trans shifted much better after...

[billschroeder5842]

I took it to my local oil change place that I'm comfortable with. They have a young mechanic that lets me get under the car with him.

The trans fluid looked like maple syrup and I have a feeling that it is original (the car has 70k on it) and never been changed. We load it with AMSOIL Synchromesh and put a new plug (with teflon tape) on the drain. Thanks for the tip on the new plug because it was needed!

While up in the air, we did an oil change with Mobile 1 5w30 synthetic-- it was due in 300 miles anyway.

The shifting was noticeably smoother on the short drive home, so I'm a beliver!

Thanks for the hints!

[Paul Workman]

While up in the air, we did an oil change with Mobile 1 5w30 synthetic-- it was due in 300 miles anyway.

NOT wanting to get into a discussion about crankcase oil and flat tappets...but after experiencing first hand what can happen, ya might want to read the article on the subject on Marc Haibeck's web site. (Hint: ZDDP)

[billschroeder5842]

NOT wanting to get into a discussion about crankcase oil and flat tappets...

Yeah, but you lit the fuse...

So, I filled with Mobile1 5W30 about 10 miles ago. The previous owner handed me the car with fresh Pennsoil 5W30 Syn. The car runs great, has 70k on a non modified engine (sans Haibeck chip) and I drive reasonanbly sane. (Okay, it is a LT5, so it sees 7k a coupel of times a month).

I know Marc recommends AMSOIL but says the Mobile1 is "acceptable."

So, how vulnerable is my engine..... REALLY?

[mike100]

I blended a couple quarts of the z-rod Amsoil with the jug of mobil1 from walmart. The z-rod is a little concentrated on the zddp additive-way more than ohc tappets need. You can duplicate 1990's mobil1 additive specs by using 2-3 qts of the zrod and the rest modern mobil1.

so then a 12 qt box of the Amsoil will last 4-6 oil changes. You get increased protection, but without overdoing it so much that it costs too much or fouls the catalysts.

[Racinfan83]

Somewhere on here I read that Mobil 1 High Mileage formula has a lot of ZDDP in it I believe. That's what I use in ALL my vehicles. Perhaps someone like Dynomite knows where that article is and can chime in...
That said - you won't hurt your engine with what you put in it just this once. When you change it again - then use some better recommended stuff with more ZDDP...

[Roadster]

I also use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40, which has a decent amount of
Phosphorus and Zinc. 1000 ppm & 1100 ppm

This may be the article you are referring to, from Marc's website.

http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Modern%20Motor%20Oil%20and%20the%20LT5%20Engine.pd f

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

I find this helpful.
Hope you do as well

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx

Thanks
Marty

[billschroeder5842]

I popped a Email to Marc the other day with my concern. I'm sure He would not mind if I posted his response:

Hi Bill,

The wear issue with low ZDDP modern oil is minor. It has a significant effect only after 100k miles or more use of a low ZDDP oil. You can safely run the Mobil 1 5W-30 until the next oil change. With the next oil fill use the Amsoil AMO 10W-40 product, or a good alternative is the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage product.

Best regards.

Marc