Changing the spark plugs.....

[Roadster]

Removed all of the spark plugs tonight, and were they ever in there!!!! very tight to say the least. Ended up combining what tools I already had, one that was recommended by many on the forum and a few I found that could help me out with removal.
Number 8 plug of course was the hardest, with number 6 being next in line. Both these two and all of the others needed some "gentle persuasion" to remove. You might have thought Superman installed them. Apparently that person did not use any anti-seize. From what the PO said that was before the previous PO, these plugs have been in there for 12-15000 miles.
They are AC 41-963's. They appear in decent shape for the mileage, but also may have some slight issues. Checking the gap, they were @ .050 and some were a little wider.

Some of the tools used....
The one on the left is the 5/8" with the swivel. The one on the right is a magnetic socket with a built-in extension...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170307_230842.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170307_230842.jpg.html)
the magnet worked great when a plug didn't want to come out...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170307_230859.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170307_230859.jpg.html)
the socket on the right is over 5" long and fits flush with the top of the head....you feel more comfortable with it because it is longer and therefore has better leverage...JMO
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_202708.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_202708.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_202625.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_202625.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg.html)
one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg.html)
the final combo for #8...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Some of you may agree or may disagree....I wasn't about to throw my back out removing spark plugs....so when I felt that they were in there really tight, resorted to one of my leverage tools. This time only a half of a floor jack handle. No room for the whole thing....lol I wouldn't do this on anyone else's vehicle, but for me it broke most of the plugs loose. Only two I undid by hand. The others needed persuasion......
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_214038.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_214038.jpg.html)
Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#8 #6 #4 #2...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213208.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213208.jpg.html)
you can see oil at the top of the threads on 3 of the plugs...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213240.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213240.jpg.html)
Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#7 #5 #3 #1...
oil at the top of all of the threads...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215800.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215800.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215801.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215801.jpg.html)

[ssrszz4]

So what plugs did you put back in?

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[Roadster]

So what plugs did you put back in?

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Not any yet.....but either tomorrow or tomorrow night these will be going in.
NGK 3690 Iridium IX Spark Plugs (TR7IX)
Went with Hib's recommendation of going two colder ranges than the stock range which may be too hot for our engines.

[We Gone]

Part of the AC box is removable to help assist in the removal of the firewall passenger side plug.

[Roadster]

Part of the AC box is removable to help assist in the removal of the firewall passenger side plug.

I did read that at one time or another, but forgot about it at the time and really wouldn't have wanted to remove any additional parts. Just took me a few minutes to try out different combos for #6 & #8 than what was already mentioned. The biggest problem was the tightness of the plugs. Once I broke them loose, not a problem. Will have to look up the spec for install, they for sure are not going in as tight as before!!!

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

:cheers::cheers::cheers: Tom!

As always, THANK YOU for sharing all that you do!
Your descriptions are succinct and easy to understand.
However, the real highlight is your picture taking!
All of the right shots, that also explain visually the methodology used!

It is you and the others that take the time to do this, that gives other owners, particularly, newer ones, the confidence to tackle these jobs!

Marty

[Roadster]

:cheers::cheers::cheers: Tom!

As always, THANK YOU for sharing all that you do!
Your descriptions are succinct and easy to understand.
However, the real highlight is your picture taking!
All of the right shots, that also explain visually the methodology used!

It is you and the others that take the time to do this, that gives other owners, particularly, newer ones, the confidence to tackle these jobs!

Marty

Thanks Marty, your reply is very much appreciated.:)
Lol....yes there is a method to my madness....lol
I try to give as much as a visual as possible, maybe an individual who has never attempted anything before, would be willing to give it a try between the pics and other members advice, would get them through it...btw, I liked the extended breaker bar pic the best!!! lol


Doing some research, it seems that the anti-seize is not really needed, but to use a very light coat of oil instead. I also found that the torque of the plugs should be 15 lb.ft
I rather check for re-torque if necessary rather than overtighten.

[G8nightman]

Looks like you can use caters fuel line clamps yours is broken :-)

[Paul Workman]

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg.html)
one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg.html)
the final combo for #8...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg.html)

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!:jawdrop:

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...;)

[Roadster]

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!:jawdrop:

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...;)

On the tire is what I used for #8, I was able to work it in the spark plug hole no problem once I got the right combo. Still needed the 1/2" ratchet with the 3/8" reducer to make it all work.

And yes the jack handle "breaker bar"....I envisioned myself breaking off a plug, but I didn't apply pressure all at once. Just used a back & forth motion with just enough pressure to hear the creaking sounds.....as opposed to a cracking sound......lol I wouldn't recommend anyone else trying that unless they feel really comfortable in doing so.....

If I ever were to do the C-bean plates, that would have to be done at a future WAZOO get together. I don't have a lift and a lot of the guys have already done this job and have the experience for adding the plates...

[Roadster]

Looks like you can use caters fuel line clamps yours is broken :-)

Hmmmm, have to check that out, what do his look like???

[Roadster]

FYI...Doing more research about using anti-seize, I came across this post from Dave (WVZR-1) in 2014 and will repost here. The following is taken from the NGK site and refers to using or not using anti-seize on their IX plugs....

"1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."

I think I will not use the anti-seize after reading the above, and torque to spec. I rather check and re-torque if necessary in the future....

[G8nightman]

Hmmmm, have to check that out, what do his look like???



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/9245716fefa1cd1dce97ca73e4c0fa72.jpg

Here you go



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[Roadster]

Here you go
Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks George.....

[Roadster]

Just finished installing the plugs a few minutes ago, everything went really well. Except #8....lol....of course the rubber insert was coming out of the short socket during testing. Glad I caught that, so had to glue that back in, and should have lubed the inside of the socket before hand, as the socket was staying attached to the plug inside the head, but the short extensions pulled out fine.....took the plug out, lubed the socket and everything was fine....
I knew there was a reason to install #8 last.....lol

Gapped all the plugs @.050 and checked them twice with two different measure tools...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175638.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175638.jpg.html)
pic for illustration purposes only....tool I used to correctly gap the plugs and check gap...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175723.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175723.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_180027.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_180027.jpg.html)
other tool used to double check gap....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175930.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_175930.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Getting ready for surgery.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182338.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182338.jpg.html)
the magnetic socket worked great for install, didn't have to be concerned if plug would fall out or move...a good addition to the tool box...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182712.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182712.jpg.html)
also used the extra long socket for some plugs, also worked real well...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182917.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182917.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182848.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_182848.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

used my 3/8" drive TW in inch lbs and converted to 15 lb. ft. for plugs. after using a regular 3/8" drive ratchet to slightly tighten, all that was needed from the TW, was about a 1/4 turn, if that to get the proper torque spec.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_185021.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_185021.jpg.html)
all plugs were torqued, including #8.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_192704.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_192704.jpg.html)
on a side note, are these wire separators an LT5 exclusive??? if so, does anyone know if there is a GM # for these???
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170310_200218.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170310_200218.jpg.html)

All in all, install went very smooth, engine started right up. ready to go for a ride after the snow and salt disappears, probably next week.....

[WARP TEN]

I always removed number 8 first, so by comparison all the rest were easy as pie.--Bob

[lfalzarano]

amen to that!


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[Roadster]

I always removed number 8 first, so by comparison all the rest were easy as pie.--Bob

Now that I have the right combo that works for me on #8 and the fact that they are no longer installed way too tight, they are all now as you say,
"easy as pie" :dancing

[lfalzarano]

Wait until one blows out on the road. Scary noise


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[lfalzarano]

As a precursor, you might experience a slight rough idle. At least once a month while idling, check the spark plug boots. Any slight movement is an indication of a loose plug that should be tightened after the engine is cold. Otherwise, drive it like you just stole it!


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[Roadster]

Wait until one blows out on the road. Scary noise


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

I hear you there, read some posts where it has happen to a few members, don't want to be added to that list!!!

As a precursor, you might experience a slight rough idle. At least once a month while idling, check the spark plug boots. Any slight movement is an indication of a loose plug that should be tightened after the engine is cold. Otherwise, drive it like you just stole it!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks for the tip.....I intend to recheck the torque after 50 miles or so, just to make sure...

[efnfast]

Wait until one blows out on the road. Scary noise


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Uh huh.

[XfireZ51]

As a precursor, you might experience a slight rough idle. At least once a month while idling, check the spark plug boots. Any slight movement is an indication of a loose plug that should be tightened after the engine is cold. Otherwise, drive it like you just stole it!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

I agree. Before some performance event or road trip, I usually tighten things up
assuring good compression.

[Roadster]

Ok, could not contain myself any longer.....so the roads are halfway decent and I went for a ride with my new sparkplugs....I like them a lot.
Even though the cold temps @ 33* helps with power, I have to say these new plugs are extremely responsive. Pulls effortlessly through all the gears, feeling like more added power even besides the secondaries now being fully operational.

Now for a few slight (have to figure out) items....
1- Got into it in 1st gear getting the r's close to 5k, and it felt like the accelerator pedal kicked back towards my foot. Shifted into 2nd & 3rd, brought the r's up again, was fine. Tried it again after a mile or so, did not do it that time. All future heavy throttle in 1st gear did not duplicate the kickback. Thought that was kind of unusual....

2- I noticed that when the plenum pull was done, and the vacuum issues were addressed, when first turning the key to the on position to hear the vacuum pump, it only came on for about 2-3 seconds. Today when first started, it stayed on for 3-5 seconds. All repeat "hot" starts just turning the key to the on position did not activate the pump at all.

3- Reason #2 has me concerned is that the idle is still not quite right. And at one time today, it did go as high as 1200 r's when I came to a stop. Sometimes it will idle at 650-700 r's when stopped, other times it will be at 900-1000 r's when stopped.
If I am stopped with trans in 1st gear, and idle is higher and I let the clutch out slightly with my foot on the brake, as soon as the clutch starts to engage, the idle will drop to normal and stay there even as I press down on the clutch pedal to disengage.
I know that there may be a couple of things to look for, as has been mentioned before, such as: the throttle blades completely closing, or a slight vacuum leak due to a vacuum hose coming loose under the plenum. Although the digital camera showed everything looking good from before....

Engine runs great, the best since I have owned the Z, once the idle issue gets resolved, it will be complete.....at least for me!!!:)

[lfalzarano]

Have you upgraded your chip?

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/Calibration%20BMCBG.htm It will help with the idle and throttle issues you mentioned.

[Roadster]

Yes I have, it was the first item I did when I purchased the Z 3 years ago....
It was normal before the plenum pull....that's why I think it maybe a hose that has come loose as the pump runs a little longer as stated above.
Throttle is perfect, closes @0% and opens to 100% @ WOT, as per the Tech 1.


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[lfalzarano]

I would check all hoses outside the plenum first, before pulling it. There is this one hose that comes out and over towards the radiator reservoir on the passenger side in the nose. It has a connection that passes over the top of the AC hoses. It comes loose if you were working in that area.

[secondchance]

1- Got into it in 1st gear getting the r's close to 5k, and it felt like the accelerator pedal kicked back towards my foot. Shifted into 2nd & 3rd, brought the r's up again, was fine. Tried it again after a mile or so, did not do it that time. All future heavy throttle in 1st gear did not duplicate the kickback. Thought that was kind of unusual....
Are you sure this is not ASR activating?

2- I noticed that when the plenum pull was done, and the vacuum issues were addressed, when first turning the key to the on position to hear the vacuum pump, it only came on for about 2-3 seconds. Today when first started, it stayed on for 3-5 seconds. All repeat "hot" starts just turning the key to the on position did not activate the pump at all.
This type of variation is not unusual. I wouldn't worry about this.

3- Reason #2 has me concerned is that the idle is still not quite right. And at one time today, it did go as high as 1200 r's when I came to a stop. Sometimes it will idle at 650-700 r's when stopped, other times it will be at 900-1000 r's when stopped.
We'll investigate when we have our WAZOO meet.

[Roadster]

"Are you sure this is not ASR activating?"

It very well could have been the ASR activating....didnt even give it a thought, as there was some salt dust still on the road...

"This type of variation is not unusual. I wouldn't worry about this."

Yea, that's me always thinking of something...


"We'll investigate when we have our WAZOO meet."

Sounds good to me....

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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Ok, could not contain myself any longer.....so the roads are halfway decent and I went for a ride with my new sparkplugs....I like them a lot.
Even though the cold temps @ 33* helps with power, I have to say these new plugs are extremely responsive. Pulls effortlessly through all the gears, feeling like more added power even besides the secondaries now being fully operational.

Now for a few slight (have to figure out) items....
1- Got into it in 1st gear getting the r's close to 5k, and it felt like the accelerator pedal kicked back towards my foot. Shifted into 2nd & 3rd, brought the r's up again, was fine. Tried it again after a mile or so, did not do it that time. All future heavy throttle in 1st gear did not duplicate the kickback. Thought that was kind of unusual....

2- I noticed that when the plenum pull was done, and the vacuum issues were addressed, when first turning the key to the on position to hear the vacuum pump, it only came on for about 2-3 seconds. Today when first started, it stayed on for 3-5 seconds. All repeat "hot" starts just turning the key to the on position did not activate the pump at all.

3- Reason #2 has me concerned is that the idle is still not quite right. And at one time today, it did go as high as 1200 r's when I came to a stop. Sometimes it will idle at 650-700 r's when stopped, other times it will be at 900-1000 r's when stopped.
If I am stopped with trans in 1st gear, and idle is higher and I let the clutch out slightly with my foot on the brake, as soon as the clutch starts to engage, the idle will drop to normal and stay there even as I press down on the clutch pedal to disengage.
I know that there may be a couple of things to look for, as has been mentioned before, such as: the throttle blades completely closing, or a slight vacuum leak due to a vacuum hose coming loose under the plenum. Although the digital camera showed everything looking good from before....

Engine runs great, the best since I have owned the Z, once the idle issue gets resolved, it will be complete.....at least for me!!!:)

Tom,
That sure sounds exactly like the description of how the ASR feels when it decides to meddle in your fun in order to rescue you from wheel-spin.

My car used to routinely invoke the ASR as I passed through 5500 rpm, as the tires would begin to break loose.

To confirm you could replicate it with ASR off, but I do not really recommend that.

Perhaps your new secondaries, plugs, etc, are now providing you with a lot more power than before.

Try lighting them up during launch, and see if the pushback that you will feel on the accelerator is the same.

If so, it's a good thing!

You are making too much power for the tires!

:cheers:
Marty

[Roadster]

Tom,
That sure sounds exactly like the description of how the ASR feels when it decides to meddle in your fun in order to rescue you from wheel-spin.

My car used to routinely invoke the ASR as I passed through 5500 rpm, as the tires would begin to break loose.

To confirm you could replicate it with ASR off, but I do not really recommend that.

Perhaps your new secondaries, plugs, etc, are now providing you with a lot more power than before.

Try lighting them up during launch, and see if the pushback that you will feel on the accelerator is the same.

If so, it's a good thing!

You are making too much power for the tires!

:cheers:
Marty

You know Marty, Yun and you are right on about the ASR. Before when approaching the 7000+rpm shifts during WOT, I never felt the ASR engage.
Now since the secondaries are operational, I noticed the Z gets really loose at that 5500 rpm range , and even more so now with the new spark plugs. And of course already having Marc's chip in there with that extra 10 HP in addition to the parameters it enhances, my LT5 just runs sooooo good!!!
Yes, I agree I am making too much power for the tires....:D

[cloudshe]

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204729.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204831.jpg.html)
one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_204926.jpg.html)
the final combo for #8...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213717.jpg.html)
you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

[Roadster]

you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

The NGK's I have in there now, seem to be working quite well!!!
You can PM Jim....his screen name is....QB93Z, I will PM his cell # to you....

[Paul Workman]

Some of you may agree or may disagree....I wasn't about to throw my back out removing spark plugs....so when I felt that they were in there really tight, resorted to one of my leverage tools. This time only a half of a floor jack handle. No room for the whole thing....lol I wouldn't do this on anyone else's vehicle, but for me it broke most of the plugs loose. Only two I undid by hand. The others needed persuasion......
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_214038.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_214038.jpg.html)
Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#8 #6 #4 #2...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213208.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213208.jpg.html)
you can see oil at the top of the threads on 3 of the plugs...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213240.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_213240.jpg.html)
Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#7 #5 #3 #1...
oil at the top of all of the threads...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215800.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215800.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215801.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170309_215801.jpg.html)

YIKES!

IIRC, plugs only require (something like) 19 ft# of torque. Stripping the aluminum threads immediately came to mind - even if they are "only siezed".

On installation, I dab the tip of a finger in some anti-sieze goop, and make a single swipe (perpendicular to) across the threads before reinstalling the plug.

In 55 years of changing plugs I've never had one back out, nor require more than a gentle push on the ratchet handle to break it loose. (And, once the initial torque is broken, the plug usually unscrew with twisting the extension with my fingers...usually.)

Obviously, those threads didn't strip out; no harm done. But, I know you'll like the anti-sieze when you remove them next rime.;)

[XfireZ51]

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

[Paul Workman]

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

I just use that tiny amount - never a problem. But, if oil is working, carry on.

Speaking of "plugs" seizing, I always use either Teflon (plumber's) tape or anti-seize on the various drain plugs; e.g., oil pan drain/fill plugs. That really does the trick - far as seizing goes. :thumbsup: I never had one leak either.:cheers:

[Roadster]

YIKES!

IIRC, plugs only require (something like) 19 ft# of torque. Stripping the aluminum threads immediately came to mind - even if they are "only siezed".

On installation, I dab the tip of a finger in some anti-sieze goop, and make a single swipe (perpendicular to) across the threads before reinstalling the plug.

In 55 years of changing plugs I've never had one back out, nor require more than a gentle push on the ratchet handle to break it loose. (And, once the initial torque is broken, the plug usually unscrew with twisting the extension with my fingers...usually.)

Obviously, those threads didn't strip out; no harm done. But, I know you'll like the anti-sieze when you remove them next rime.;)


Yea, when I went to undo I said much more than YIKES!.....one of the PO's really wanted to make his strength known in the future.....I have used this size breaker bars enough to now have the feel of how much pressure to apply when getting something loose. As mentioned, I wouldn't do this to another owner's vehicle even if asked....if I mess up on my own vehicle, oh well!!! but as you can see, they came out fine. I did use a slight amount of anti-sieze for the next time....:)


I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

I have never used oil for this purpose, not saying it wouldn't work....and have not performed a snug-up on the plugs, yet!!!

[Hib Halverson]

Anti-seize or oil works well on plug threads but if you use anti-seize compound you MUST use non-metallic anti seize.

Much of the anti-seize on the market has copper, moly or nickel in it so read lables before you buy.

My favorite for spark plugs is DuPont Krytox a flourinated grease which has anti-seize properties and is very durabile at high temperature.

[Roadster]

Anti-seize or oil works well on plug threads but if you use anti-seize compound you MUST use non-metallic anti seize.

Much of the anti-seize on the market has copper, moly or nickel in it so read lables before you buy.

My favorite for spark plugs is DuPont Krytox a flourinated grease which has anti-seize properties and is very durabile at high temperature.

Thanks for the tip.....I will have to check my supply.....:)