Connector part number needed

[QB93Z]

Does anyone know a part number or source for the connector to the HVAC Blower Fan Resistor module?

The Resistor Module is mounted in the air flow of the blower fan inboard of the Coolant Expansion Tank, under the fuel lines.

My connector shows heat damage and I need to replace it because I am getting intermittent contact.

[QB93Z]

Here are some pictures:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170303/150d12465609fae4718569cbfe0aa513.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170303/58d2d6d82cb9b950488f111b7800c65d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170303/d98ac4f467a6c7ca96c8f737f1310586.jpg

Thanks.

Jim


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[XfireZ51]

My question Jim would be "why is that happening?"

[QB93Z]

My question Jim would be "why is that happening?"

Same thought I had.

Probably 150,000 miles of operation. There was a failed Blower Motor in 2014 that may have drawn too much current. I never had a blown fuse.

Jim

[Roadster]

check this out...

AC DELCO PT204 looks like the one you need....
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=267956&cc=1041365&jsn=667

Think I'll order one myself for parts stock!!!

[Roadster]

My question Jim would be "why is that happening?"

Mostly likely the reason is due to the miles on the vehicle as Jim had mentioned and just normal wear and tear from years of use.

[WVZR-1]

The one in your snapshot is a Delphi 12052024, requires a "cavity plug" and a correct terminal for the actual pin. Several ways to accomplish it. You can purchase a correct empty connector, transfer your cavity plug, buy a terminal and seal local to build your own OR use a pigtail from a local AP store/cut-splice and just deal with it.

I can supply you with all the correct terminal #'s etc if you'd like to try local!

If you'd like to buy a pigtail local and do the same buy this pigtail local or it's equivalent first and try it in the blower module. Dependent very much on whose product, you could likely do the correct 480 terminal/seal etc and work with the local pigtail buy BUT some pigtails even though they connect to the component are fabricated differently.

Is the 3-wire connector OK?

The PT204 Tom mentioned should work for you if you'd like to cut/splice and transfer your cavity plug. So long as it's fabricated with original Delphi terminals this would/should work. If it's fabricated by someone other than Delphi now even though it mates to the BCM you may not be able to swap etc.

**** Your only other issue with a pigtail is going to be the gauge of wire that it's supplied with if you wanted to cut/splice.

[QB93Z]

Thanks for all the info. If it is possible to locally source the parts I am very interested. For this repair and for future repairs.

Jim

[secondchance]

Let me check. I had a spare connector.
Also, do not cut and solder. Pins can be released using a skinny paper clip.

[WVZR-1]

Thanks for all the info. If it is possible to locally source the parts I am very interested. For this repair and for future repairs.

Jim

I sent you an email - I can explain further some of the information if you return my email with questions!!

-D

[QB93Z]

Thanks for all the help and information. I got the replacement kit connector from Rock Auto. I disassembled my damaged connector and was able to save the original wiring and the wire seal was in good condition. I will upload some pictures from my phone.

[QB93Z]

The red tool is the "probe" that is inserted in the connector to release the tang so the wire can be pulled from the plug:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170309/abdb9218a92f6e0a7c42fbaf9c6a958f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170309/499f1ac52d2c4b2d99572b9725f7a8bc.jpg


This picture is the assembled connector and the "pigtail" that came with the kit. (Which I didn't use):

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170309/2f6ed68af3f5d7dbdad0c4f0705c31f6.jpg




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[Paul Workman]

My question Jim would be "why is that happening?"

Short of using gold-flashed (plated) connectors, it is only a matter of time before exposure to air (especially salt-air or other corrosive vapors) will react with bare metals to form a barrier of oxidized metal and/or deposits between the metal connector contact points - thus introducing resistance to the connection. That's where trouble begins!

Watts (heat) = current (amperes squared) x resistance (W=I²R) So, connections carrying relatively high current loads are especially susceptible (heat increases at the square of the current flow!). In automotive circuits motors of all types, and heavy load items like headlights, battery terminals, etc, benefit from a little extra attention to prevent (or delay the inevitable) corrosion/resistance build-up leading to resistance and HEAT.

Heat cycles and time have a way of attacking insulation; connectors especially. Air (oxygen) and other corrosives born in it is the main culprit. Anyone running boats in salt water or electricians can tell you about the effects that electrolysis has on dis-similar metals (e.g., aluminum wiring and brass hold-down screws...[-X).

Dielectric grease or other insulating materials can prevent air and its contaminants from making physical contact and thereupon acting/reacting with the metal connectors - as long as they (protective material) too can keep from being attacked by the elements and heat. But, short of hermetically sealed, welded/soldered connections, protective coatings too are susceptible to the elements and eventually break down.

And, then there is metal fatigue - where the spring tension forcing the physical contact within the connector itself deteriorates with heat cycles (especially). Contact surface area is thus reduced and resistance goes up.

21-27 years is plenty of time for the elements to have effect on connectors - especially those not protected and/or carrying higher currents will fail first and those that are somewhat protected...just take longer.:cry:

Ain't driving older cars fun!?

[QB93Z]

Your analysis is absolutely correct Paul. The good news is that the connectors are readily available and we can maintain them as needed.

Jim

[-=Jeff=-]

Jim.. more info on that red tool please

[QB93Z]

I don't remember where I got the wire terminal removal tool, but here is a link to an Amazon listing. There is even a video of using the tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57750-Wire-Terminal-Tool/dp/B007WQQHA2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1489082467&sr=8-4&keywords=wire+connector+tool

There are other versions that perform the same functions.

I have used these tools many times. Terminal and connector repair is an important part of C4 maintenance.

Jim