WAZOO Day Success 1/21/17

[Roadster]

Another great day @ WAZOO. I was the fortunate one today to have a plenum pull performed by Yun and help from Jim and a host of others. I cleaned some parts and took pics. A lot of pics to follow.
I do want to thank Yun, Jim and the WAZOO guys in attendance today. It was a very good day!!!:D

I will start off by saying that the time I have owned my 94, I was under the impression that my secondaries were functioning correctly. I know I had vacuum issues, but also thought it wasn't a big deal with secondary operation. I was wrong, big time. For the first time since April 2014, I now have full secondary operation. And all I can say is......wow, I'm stunned. In the past I was able to pull shifts @7200r's whenever. Engine felt good, no stumbles, no hesitation, etc. Just thought it was running great. Had my vacuum pump unplugged, and figured when the plenum pull gets done, will address the problem then. And having never been in or driven another ZR-1 before purchase, what did I know!!! Well I really didn't know anything. I just knew my Z was running good and I was satisfied.
Well after today's pull and test drive w/Yun afterwards, it was like this LT5 is totally different. Not only can I feel the additional power, but the sound of the secondaries opening is music to my ears. It was like buying another ZR-1.

Here is the list of items done today and why they were done. I figured if we're doing the plenum pull, we may as well do it all or as much as I can. Because I don't want to get under there again, unless it is absolutely necessary.

1-Plenum Pull
2-replace starter
3-replace coils
4-replace vacuum lines
5-replace check valve
6-replace filter
7-replace PCV valves
8-replace PCV hose
9-replace MAP connector
10-replace Fuel Regulator hose
11-clean the valley
12-unclog the drain
13-clean Plenum and other parts
14-replace Fuel Injectors
15-replace alternator
16-go for a test drive and smile.........:-D

On a side note, I decided to keep the secondaries factory, and not do a coolant bypass.
Also already having Marc's chip, gives me another 10HP (415HP now), who can argue with that!!!

And Charlie, you also were so right about the secondaries.....oh yea!!!

My injectors were original, and they all tested out between 12.2 and 12.5
They were still good. But I took advantage of a sale through an email on FIC and went with new. Coils were MSD units and purchased through Summit. Jerrys Gaskets provided all of the hoses needed and other small items, from my purchase which turned out to be a great move.
While the main vacuum lines were in good shape, we found problems with the check valve (which was very loose in the connection) and the PCV hose that was split. We replace the vacuum hoses anyway even if the old ones were still good. We're in here, so let's just do it.
Again, results were phenomenal to say the least. My vacuum pump works flawlessly and is tight. No leaks.....
Enjoy the pics.....

The LT5...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_091005.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_091005.jpg.html)
Plenum off...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_092929.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_092929.jpg.html)
Closer inspection and pics for reference during assembly...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_092853.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_092853.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_093002.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_093002.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

more pics....

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_093304.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_093304.jpg.html)
paper towel plugs...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_094425.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_094425.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_095228.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_095228.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_095943.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_095943.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

the valley...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112144.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112144.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112117.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112117.jpg.html)
the coil replacements...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112927.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112927.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112941.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_112941.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

the new starter...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_113409.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_113409.jpg.html)
coil installation...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_115202.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_115202.jpg.html)
the underneath of the dirty Plenum...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_114156.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_114156.jpg.html)
the Ignition Module...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_114200.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_114200.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

the group minus me, I don't do pics, I just take them.......:D
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_115447.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_115447.jpg.html)
new Alternator...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_131136.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_131136.jpg.html)
everything coming together...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_130814.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_130814.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_134652.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_134652.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Yun, working his magic...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_132142.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_132142.jpg.html)
the famous "block of wood"...to make those last minute connections & adjustments...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_140537.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_140537.jpg.html)
Yun's clean LT5 with his signature "block of wood" under his plenum, as he made some adjustments after mine.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_160534.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_160534.jpg.html)
Mine all back together....woohoo!!! what a day!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170121_150202.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170121_150202.jpg.html)

[Dynomite]

It looked a bit rough under the Plenum before you started the reconditioning......I usually DEGREASE and Pressure Wash under the plenum after cleaning out the Valley Drain.

I usually replace the crankcase Cover gasket and replace the Secondary Port Throttle Linkage with new linkage from Jerry.

I ALWAYS Drill and tap each Injector Housing Blocking TB Coolant. This allows me to install SS Plenum bolts with less torque simply because I just like removing the Plenum more often than others without messing with Coolant :D

The WAZOO gang should start Blocking TB Coolant on each plenum removal just because :sign10:

Great set of photos............:thumbsup:

I will reposition this post at the end of your photos if you post more photos so not to interrupt the sequence..........:cheers:

[Roadster]

Actually the valley cleaned up well after all was done. The drain was totally clogged and now is clog free.....

Did not do the crankcase gasket, but the secondary port throttle linkage was tested numerous times before and after the vacuum issues were corrected and now works perfect. My pump is plugged in again, and is fine.

There wasn't enough time to do a TB coolant even if we wanted, and I am happy to do without. Don't intend to go back under there unless necessary as mentioned. I know you are under there more than anyone......:D and do the TB bypass on all your LT5's.

Glad you enjoyed the pics......thx...

[secondchance]

[B]

The WAZOO gang should start Blocking TB Coolant on each plenum removal just because :sign10:



Three wazoo cars have throttle body coolant bypassed. Not only blocked at the top of injector housing but also tapped behind the injector housing on both sides, tee on to a single hose and connected back to return line next to the blower housing area. This set up totally alleviates any concern of air bubble trapping in the cooling system. And yes, it makes servicing under the plenum much simpler.

[Dynomite]

Actually the valley cleaned up well after all was done. The drain was totally clogged and now is clog free.....

Did not do the crankcase gasket, but the secondary port throttle linkage was tested numerous times before and after the vacuum issues were corrected and now works perfect. My pump is plugged in again, and is fine.

There wasn't enough time to do a TB coolant even if we wanted, and I am happy to do without. Don't intend to go back under there unless necessary as mentioned. I know you are under there more than anyone......:D and do the TB bypass on all your LT5's.

Glad you enjoyed the pics......thx...

Yes on the TB Coolant Blocking on my LT5s (several I have reinstalled new TB Coolant hoses without hose clamps to make it look stock)........You have documented the top end of a 94' which is a bit unique and should be identical to my 95' I am thinking.

Anyway.....very high quality large photos like you have presented helps everyone that is thinking about doing a Top End Restoration.
The photos are very much appreciated :handshak:

Not only blocked at the top of injector housing but also tapped behind the injector housing on both sides, tee on to a single hose and connected back to return line next to the blower housing area. This set up totally alleviates any concern of air bubble trapping in the cooling system. And yes, it makes servicing under the plenum much simpler.

I am not sure I understand the "tapped bebind the injector housing on both sides, tee on to a single hose" .........I sounds like you installed a tee to make sure air is evacuated from the top of the Injector Housing coolant manifolds. If you get the air out of the Water Pump by a method or two I use during coolant re-installation my theory is that the coolant flow will flush air out of the top of the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds especially at the higher rpms which then cures that issue for which you have installed a Tee.

Tech Info - LT5 Coolant Flow Calculations (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3117790-tech-info-lt5-zr-1-technical-calculations.html#post1581660591")

[George Maz]

Under Plenum... brass fittings, black hoses, clamps.

Outside Plenum... black fittings, red hoses, LT5 embossed coolant tubes drilled.

Both methods achieve block-off & bypass.

[Arctic91]

Tom, congrats... glad to hear that the car is exceeding your expectations! Looks great!!

Is that green car the Callaway Supernatural vert? I thought that car was for sale? Was it bought by one of the WAZOO?

Cheers,
Scott

[secondchance]

Tom, congrats... glad to hear that the car is exceeding your expectations! Looks great!!

Is that green car the Callaway Supernatural vert? I thought that car was for sale? Was it bought by one of the WAZOO?

Cheers,
Scott

Hey, Scott!
Green car is an LT1 coupe came by to inspect possible clutch slave cylinder issue.

Dynamite,
Yes. Your assumption is correct. I read your thoughts on flushing out trapped air while filling with coolant. We take it a bit further and install elbow fittings on the back of injector housings, bring the to a single hose using a "T" fitting and connect the tube to coolant return hose.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

WAZOO is awesome!!!!


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[G-Sting]

Roadster,

Great post and pics. Awesome group of experienced folks working there. Looks like fun, too. Maybe I missed it, but how many miles were on your LT-5?

[Roadster]

Yes on the TB Coolant Blocking on my LT5s (several I have reinstalled new TB Coolant hoses without hose clamps to make it look stock)........You have documented the top end of a 94' which is a bit unique and should be identical to my 95' I am thinking.

Anyway.....very high quality large photos like you have presented helps everyone that is thinking about doing a Top End Restoration.
The photos are very much appreciated :handshak:

No problem on the pics Cliff, if you feel the need to use any of them for reference, feel free to do so. And I would assume that the 95 is identical to the 94.
:cheers:

Under Plenum... brass fittings, black hoses,
clamps.

Outside Plenum... black fittings, red hoses, LT5 embossed coolant tubes drilled.

Both methods achieve block-off & bypass.

Looking good George....nice work!!!:thumbsup:

Tom, congrats... glad to hear that the car is exceeding your expectations! Looks great!!

Is that green car the Callaway Supernatural vert? I thought that car was for sale? Was it bought by one of the WAZOO?

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott, yes it is exceeding my expectations for sure.....:-D Hope you are doing well, looking forward to seeing you in the future @ WAZOO. Stay safe....

WAZOO is awesome!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

Thanks Craig, the knowledge here at WAZOO is phenomenal :D

Roadster,

Great post and pics. Awesome group of experienced folks working there. Looks like fun, too. Maybe I missed it, but how many miles were on your LT-5?

Thanks G-Sting, it is fun and always a learning experience on the LT5....
Mine has 68,427 miles now and really feeling good about itself, especially with the secondaries and vacuum issues resolved.......woohoo!!!:-D

[Racinfan83]

I hope you guys realize how lucky you are to have so many knowledgeable members close enough to get together and do things like that... Some of us are stuck in ZR-1 desert land... The FBI bunch is the closest to me but still 5 hours away. Not like I can just scoot up there.. I'm gonna have to do something though to figure out my vibration that I have never been able to diagnose.. :(

[Arctic91]

Hey, Scott!
Green car is an LT1 coupe came by to inspect possible clutch slave cylinder issue.

Ah.. ok, thanks Yun!

Scott

[Roadster]

Pics of the 94 after the trip home from yesterday....ready for a good wash and some dry roads....Am I going to have some fun this week!!!

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[Dynomite]

Under Plenum... brass fittings, black hoses, clamps.

Outside Plenum... black fittings, red hoses, LT5 embossed coolant tubes drilled.

Both methods achieve block-off & bypass.

I see......it appears to me you have the Black Hoses from inside of Injector Housings and Red Hoses from top of each Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds back to the Coolant Reservoir. Making sure you get all the air out of the top end of the Coolant System. The Black and Red hoses are connected to the same Coolant Pathway within the Injector Housings but on opposite sides.

Thanks for the Photos :handshak:

[mike100]

What an awesome 'mod'! Not too many things besides nitrous oxide add 100+ hp for such little effort.


For me personally, I had driven one of these cars new back in 1991 so I would have noticed the secondary malfunction. Now you can hassle BMW's and C5's with a little more confidence.

[Roadster]

I hope you guys realize how lucky you are to have so many knowledgeable members close enough to get together and do things like that... Some of us are stuck in ZR-1 desert land... The FBI bunch is the closest to me but still 5 hours away. Not like I can just scoot up there.. I'm gonna have to do something though to figure out my vibration that I have never been able to diagnose.. :(

I know we all do, takes me 2 hours and 20 minutes from door-to-door and worth every mile plus some!!! Just being able to get together regardless of what vehicle is getting work done, it's just a fun time to see everyone and enjoy the day. And me being retired now, makes it even more enjoyable. Always stories and ideas floating around, and as mentioned before, a real learning experience.
Maybe you can post a video of your vibration noise and someone on the forum will be able to help you figure it out.

What an awesome 'mod'! Not too many things besides nitrous oxide add 100+ hp for such little effort.


For me personally, I had driven one of these cars new back in 1991 so I would have noticed the secondary malfunction. Now you can hassle BMW's and C5's with a little more confidence.

Yes Mike your correct, it feels so much better than it did before. And our test drive wasn't even WOT, as the roads were still damp. And just the sound of the secondaries opening, ahhhh!!! I can only imagine and can't wait for the dry roads. I have a few roads near me that are open with just fields and hardly used. So you know where I'll be sometime this week!!!:D

[Racinfan83]

Maybe you can post a video of your vibration noise and someone on the forum will be able to help you figure it out.

It has been discussed on a couple threads here before. I need to go find someone with a known good set of wheels/tires and try that first. Have not been able to do that here. I know if I drive up to Chicago I can find that help - but 5 hours up and 5 hours back means at least one night hotel and if tires/wheels aren't it then we opened another can of worms...
I just lost my DD to a hit and run on the interstate going to work - so having to spend more money I don't have to get another one. My biggest issues are lack of money and lack of time... Hopefully 2017 will be better then the previous couple years..:(

[secondchance]

Pics of the 94 after the trip home from yesterday....ready for a good wash and some dry roads....Am I going to have some fun this week!!!

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Tom,

Wash and wax is good for extra 5 hp and 1 mph trap speed.

Ironically I stopped by supermarket on my way back home from Westminster to pick up some eggs per my boss's request. After 10 min stop my car wouldn't start. She sat over night at the supermarket parking garage. I was too tired to do anything yesterday. This morning she started right up. You know what that means... Yes! Another plenum pull.
Anyway, once I got home, it was wash and dry since I can't stand to see the car dirty. After the wash, I decided to replace the ASR. I had been getting ASR service light for the last 2-1/2 years but has been procrastinating. But, with throttle limited to 1/4 travel, figured it was about time to see if a ASR assembly off of a LT1 car I picked up from Ebay would fit our Z. Sure enough, they are interchangeable. Now I have full throttle once again and no more ASR light!

[G8nightman]

Tom,

Wash and wax is good for extra 5 hp and 1 mph trap speed.

Ironically I stopped by supermarket on my way back home from Westminster to pick up some eggs per my boss's request. After 10 min stop my car wouldn't start. She sat over night at the supermarket parking garage. I was too tired to do anything yesterday. This morning she started right up. You know what that means... Yes! Another plenum pull.
Anyway, once I got home, it was wash and dry since I can't stand to see the car dirty. After the wash, I decided to replace the ASR. I had been getting ASR service light for the last 2-1/2 years but has been procrastinating. But, with throttle limited to 1/4 travel, figured it was about time to see if a ASR assembly off of a LT1 car I picked up from Ebay would fit our Z. Sure enough, they are interchangeable. Now I have full throttle once again and no more ASR light!
Sounds like the Vats system disabled your car.You have to wait 20 min and try to start again.

[secondchance]

Sounds like the Vats system disabled your car.You have to wait 20 min and try to start again.

Do you think? I locked and unlocked door and tried spare ignition key also.
With gauge set to read voltage, very time I turned the ignition voltage dropped from 12.4 to 12.2. I interpreted this as draw from the starter solenoid although it was not engaging.

[A1990]

Starter.


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[Jagdpanzer]

With the voltage drop you observed appears the starter pull in soliniod is working but the motor circuit is not completing. Good chance its the main contacts or commutator brushes. How long have you been on this starter motor? Anyone know if rebuild kits are still available?

[secondchance]

With the voltage drop you observed appears the starter pull in soliniod is working but the motor circuit is not completing. Good chance its the main contacts or commutator brushes. How long have you been on this starter motor? Anyone know if rebuild kits are still available?

2-1/2 years. I did drown it once...

[Roadster]

Tom,

Wash and wax is good for extra 5 hp and 1 mph trap speed.

Ironically I stopped by supermarket on my way back home from Westminster to pick up some eggs per my boss's request. After 10 min stop my car wouldn't start. She sat over night at the supermarket parking garage. I was too tired to do anything yesterday. This morning she started right up. You know what that means... Yes! Another plenum pull.
Anyway, once I got home, it was wash and dry since I can't stand to see the car dirty. After the wash, I decided to replace the ASR. I had been getting ASR service light for the last 2-1/2 years but has been procrastinating. But, with throttle limited to 1/4 travel, figured it was about time to see if a ASR assembly off of a LT1 car I picked up from Ebay would fit our Z. Sure enough, they are interchangeable. Now I have full throttle once again and no more ASR light!


Yes Yun, it does need a wash for sure....and will use the spray detailer for that extra HP & trap speed.....lol

Well yesterday you and Jim did determine that the ASR could be the reason for the throttle not completely engaging. Good you replaced the ASR unit, glad it was interchangeable and worked to restore full throttle.
I once had a problem with the VATS due to using an inferior made key with the correct chip. Had to wait for a period of time, then used my key and everything was fine. Haven't had a VATS problem since. I know you probably had a different issue going on. But your Z seem to start ok yesterday on each attempt. Hopefully your starter is not shot after only 2 1/2 years.

Had a good ride home, especially knowing that the secondaries are now operational. Cant wait to do some WOT testing......

Your welcome to my starter if you do need it quickly, we can set up a meet point or I can ship it down to you.

[Roadster]

It has been discussed on a couple threads here before. I need to go find someone with a known good set of wheels/tires and try that first. Have not been able to do that here. I know if I drive up to Chicago I can find that help - but 5 hours up and 5 hours back means at least one night hotel and if tires/wheels aren't it then we opened another can of worms...
I just lost my DD to a hit and run on the interstate going to work - so having to spend more money I don't have to get another one. My biggest issues are lack of money and lack of time... Hopefully 2017 will be better then the previous couple years..:(

So your "dd" was totaled? Hopefully you are ok....some people are unbelievable...

On your vibration, I imagine you have also checked all of your suspension and brake pieces to make sure everything is tight? I once had a 74 Coupe that shook like crazy at higher speeds. Went through many balance and rebalance of all 4 tires. No one could figure it out. Then one day having the front wheels off, checking the brakes and the front suspension, the right side front just didn't feel right. Here the steering knuckle was loose, not loose enough to cause erratic steering, but enough to cause heavy vibration at higher speeds. Tighten to specs and all was good, vibration gone...

[Racinfan83]

Oh yeah it's totaled. I was going to just buy it back, beat the rear fender back so it cleared the tire, and replace the RR suspension assembly. But the damage to the attachment points is too severe to re-mount a new suspension to. Basically I was cruising in the right lane at 60 mph, almost to work, someone came up a short on ramp too fast and drilled me right in front of rear tire. Went from watching traffic to looking head on at cement bridge wall in an instant. Instinctively I spun it to the left, missed wall but rear wheel caught a piece of curb that was past the wall, spun me 180 again and down in a deep ditch. Someone else called it in as a 2 car accident - cops were unable to locate car that hit me. Insurance isn't giving me squat for my car. It's a 98 Civic I've had for 5 years and was worth far more to me then what they say it's worth....SMH
And yes I have checked and re-checked everything I can think of on the Z. That deal is frustrating as well. Next order of checking is swapping to a known good set wheels and tires which I probably will have to travel to Chicago to find...

[efnfast]

There is a yield sign at the top of the ramp, that means the guy getting on has to yield, and the guy on the highway has to do nothing. So many people have no idea how to get on a highway, or let someone on a highway.

[Roadster]

There is a yield sign at the top of the ramp, that means the guy getting on has to yield, and the guy on the highway has to do nothing. So many people have no idea how to get on a highway, or let someone on a highway.

After driving a big truck on the road for the last 40 years, just when you think you have seen everything, there is always something that just boggles your mind.
I agree on the yield sign, most people have no perception of timing for yielding onto the highway, or changing lanes, etc.,etc.
When drivers "yield" onto a highway, most of them think that you in your lane, whom have the right of way should almost come to a complete stop to let them onto the highway. I could tell you stories, but that is for another time....lol

As far as the vibration goes, if it was me, I would put the car up on stands once again and pull all four wheels. I would then get my Service Manual out and recheck all torque values for every piece of suspension, including all steering and brake related parts for proper torque.
If your wheels have been rebalanced on the balancing machine, and balanced out correctly, then I would rule out the wheels and tires. Unless there is a wheel(s) that are slightly out of "round" and not being detected by the machine.
If it still persist after all of this, I would try to find a local C4 Corvette owner close by where you could switch wheels and tires (even though they would not be the correct size) and see if the problem still exists, rather than driving 5 hours one way trying to find a solution. That would be a long drive!!!

[Racinfan83]

I've been up there to Marc's before - just didn't have time for him to diagnose the vibration. Will any C4 wheels and tires bolt on a Z? Good point on the torque. That I can do.
Yeah this deal with my dd was kinda shocking. I have driven everything from mini bikes to semis in my 35+ years of driving. Beer delivery local here for 5 years and heavy haul dump trucks local for 5 after that - along with some fill-in gigs in semis over the road here and there. In my dd I do drive pretty aggressively - stupid part is had I been doing my normal 75mph left lane get the hell out of the way bit - I would still have my car. But I was early so I was just loafin along at the speed limit in the right lane and got hammered. I never saw what happened. Dark, car 20' front of me, beside me, one directly behind me and lots of shuffling. I remember hearing a loud bang and I was sideways looking at concrete. Had I not instinctively yanked it left I would be posting from the hospital.. So I never saw what hit me. Either somebody behind me tried to banzai on the shoulder and couldn't make it (not likely from how hard I got hit) or someone came up this on ramp which isn't really a ramp, was going too fast to make the hard right from the ramp to the merge lane, and hammered me (which would be my best guess) I got bounced around pretty hard on both hits, the car and the curb but just sore for couple days. Here is a pic of damage - the body damage is from the vehicle who hit me, and wheel/suspension damage is from hitting curb while sliding sideways at 60mph...

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i178/Racinfan83/Erics%20Other%20Stuff/2017-01-11%2009.37.10.jpg

[Roadster]

Well we know 17" wheels will fit, so I would say that another C4 with 17" wheels would not be a problem. And the difference in the width should not be of a concern, since you are only using the wheels for a short testing purpose.

But again, repeating myself, if you are going to check all torque values, do not overlook any steering, braking parts and attachments. You just never know or wouldn't think that a certain part could cause such a problem i.e. my 74 Coupe from a long time ago as mentioned.

Well you been on the road for a long time, so I don't anything to tell you that you already don't know or have experienced.....lol I bet we could sure tell some good stories though!!!

Don't give up on the vibration, you will find the solution......

[secondchance]

Racinfan83,

If you haven't, don't forget to check the ball joints and tie rod ends while at it also.
Also, agree with Tom - standard C4 wheels will work for sure.

[rkreigh]

the Wazoo gang is the best and this is what separates the ZR-1 from ALL other corvettes.

The people. These guys have helped countless owners remedy problems gratis.

This is really what makes the club special, and there is no reason why other folks can't do exactly the same thing.

I'm not the "big cheese" anymore, but I can tell you from first hand experience that these guys are 100% the best.

And I would tell you that the expertise available has gone up by leaps and bounds and as many of you know the Wazoo gang has taken on and completed some pretty durn ambitious projects that would have cost the owners many TENS of thousands of dollars.

All I can say about these guys to others in other areas is "do likewise".

Very good times, and it helps keep the legend alive.

[-=Jeff=-]

I like the 'hidden' coolant lines back to the surge tank.. I will consider that the next time I have mine apart

[Roadster]

Beautiful weather here today, so I washed the 94 went for a ride, and came home. Now since the plenum pull I have noticed my idle at times being at
1000-1100 rpm's when stopped. Sometimes after driving and stopping again, it would come down to 800 rpm's.
Pull in the garage and wanted to try some hot restarts, so engine starts right up and hear this clanging, rattling noise appears to be coming from the alternator. Noise goes away when revving the engine, come back at idle.
Texted with Yun and he suggests maybe the fan blade and clean the IAC for the idle.
So I take the tension off the tensioner and turn the alternator fan blade by hand, sure enough there is one blade that hits the house each revolution. So I get some of my screw drivers out and proceed to pry each blade outward. After that is completed, success, or so I thought!!!
Started the engine 3 different time, no noise.....woohoo!!! started the engine the fourth time and noise is back.......so I either have to try again, or just change out the alternator. At least I found the noise.....

Cleaned out the IAC, had a load of carbon in there, put back in and all is good on the idle side.....on start ups, the engine revs up to 1700 r's and come right back down to 700 r's.....idle sounds real good.....
Just have to eliminate the noise.......

IAC getting cleaned......
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170125_143212.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170125_143212.jpg.html)
Cleaning out the side of the plenum/throttle body area where the IAC attaches....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170125_145225.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170125_145225.jpg.html)
All back together.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170125_145542.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170125_145542.jpg.html)
Getting set up for the operation....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170125_160245.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170125_160245.jpg.html)
Prying the blades.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170125_160255.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170125_160255.jpg.html)

[secondchance]

Tom,

Don't replace the alternator over a minor interference. First, check the metal shield/trim above the alternator. If not careful, that piece can bend down easily. Look carefully as you turn the alternator pulley. It shouldn't be too difficult to see where it is rubbing.

[Roadster]

Tom,

Don't replace the alternator over a minor interference. First, check the metal shield/trim above the alternator. If not careful, that piece can bend down easily. Look carefully as you turn the alternator pulley. It shouldn't be too difficult to see where it is rubbing.

I hear you Yun, it seems that one of the blades is making contact with the housing itself. I pried or bent everyone out, and it did work as mentioned, but now it is constant........:thumbsdo: will do some more tonight, and I have all day tomorrow......:-D

[secondchance]

Worst case scenario, impact wrench can easily remove the nut (7/8" if I remember correct) and the fan can be replaced with another from a failed alternator.

[Roadster]

Worst case scenario, impact wrench can easily remove the nut (7/8" if I remember correct) and the fan can be replaced with another from a failed alternator.

Looks like the worst case scenario is happening, gave up on trying to pry the
blade(s). Still hits in one or two spots.....don't know if my electric impact is strong enough to break the nut loose.....we shall see, I doubt it though!!!

[Roadster]

Latest update.....
Finally, yes finally got the alternator fan blade rubbing problem corrected. After bending, prying, filing, etc., noise has been eliminated. Fan was hitting the housing in 2 maybe 3 locations. Anyway, it's done!!!

Took the 94 out for a ride and I have to learn how to drive the Z allover again. On a slight roll out of first gear WOT approaching 5500 rpm's it starts breaking loose.:o It definitely feels like another vehicle. The power is amazing, and I thought it was quick before!!! What did I know!!! Power is just stronger all the way around with the secondaries now being functional.:dancing
Even though I run 93 fuel in the tank, decided to add a little Sunoco 260 plus Racing Fuel. Took 2 gal and away I went.

Still have the idle issue even after cleaning the IAC. Sometimes it idles at 1000-1100 r's when stopped, other times 800-900 r's when stopped.
A minor issue at this time, otherwise I need to get to the track someday and get some 1/4 times. That would be interesting.

[mike100]

Latest update.....
Finally, yes finally got the alternator fan blade rubbing problem corrected. After bending, prying, filing, etc., noise has been eliminated. Fan was hitting the housing in 2 maybe 3 locations. Anyway, it's done!!!

Took the 94 out for a ride and I have to learn how to drive the Z allover again. On a slight roll out of first gear WOT approaching 5500 rpm's it starts breaking loose.:o It definitely feels like another vehicle. The power is amazing, and I thought it was quick before!!! What did I know!!! Power is just stronger all the way around with the secondaries now being functional.:dancing
Even though I run 93 fuel in the tank, decided to add a little Sunoco 260 plus Racing Fuel. Took 2 gal and away I went.

Still have the idle issue even after cleaning the IAC. Sometimes it idles at 1000-1100 r's when stopped, other times 800-900 r's when stopped.
A minor issue at this time, otherwise I need to get to the track someday and get some 1/4 times. That would be interesting.

Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running.

[Roadster]

Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running.

I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol

[mike100]

I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol

the secondary vacuum pump is isolated system just for the secondary circuit. It also has the nickel sized one-way check valve and the little mini reservoir. The large manifold tube that could be leaking is for the gas tank purge solenoid. It opens for about 10-ish seconds when you start the car so the engine can consume the vapor air on top of the tank and out of the charcoal canister. This is when the idle is high for a few moments and you wouldn't notice the leak. then the solenoid closes capping off the huge leak. If the hose popped off, you have the 1100 rpm idle all the time except first thing when the engine is cold.

If you have a scanner, you can look at the IAC counts. If that number is zero, then the iac is closed off as much as it can and will not be able to lower the idle any further. zero counts is usually indicative of a stuck open throttlebody, leaky throttle body, or large vacuum leak.

Other vacuum leaks that are large enough could be the pcv cross-over tube thing...if that split, it will let a lot of air in. try the book across the airhorn trick to try to stall the engine at idle. If it still continues to run, you can hear the vacuum leak pretty easily.

[Roadster]

the secondary vacuum pump is isolated system just for the secondary circuit. It also has the nickel sized one-way check valve and the little mini reservoir. The large manifold tube that could be leaking is for the gas tank purge solenoid. It opens for about 10-ish seconds when you start the car so the engine can consume the vapor air on top of the tank and out of the charcoal canister. This is when the idle is high for a few moments and you wouldn't notice the leak. then the solenoid closes capping off the huge leak. If the hose popped off, you have the 1100 rpm idle all the time except first thing when the engine is cold.

If you have a scanner, you can look at the IAC counts. If that number is zero, then the iac is closed off as much as it can and will not be able to lower the idle any further. zero counts is usually indicative of a stuck open throttlebody, leaky throttle body, or large vacuum leak.

Other vacuum leaks that are large enough could be the pcv cross-over tube thing...if that split, it will let a lot of air in. try the book across the airhorn trick to try to stall the engine at idle. If it still continues to run, you can hear the vacuum leak pretty easily.

Copy on the secondary vacuum pump for the secondary circuit.
The nickel size one-way check valve was replaced, as it was very loose inside the connector. The mini reservoir, was checked out also and was fine. I had a spare NOS unit just in case. I am almost sure we changed out the purge solenoid too, have to check out the parts taken off.
Hopefully that hose did not pop off, we made sure everything was secure...
The thing is I don't have the 1100 rpm idle all of the time, sometimes yes, sometimes no...

I have the Tech 1 so I will check the IAC counts this weekend.

That PCV cross-over tube had a split in it and was replaced. I tried to make sure I had all of the vacuum lines and other connectors needed before we started the job. Glad I did, although some lines were good, others were bad.

Really should not be any vacuum leak at all.....

Appreciate the info and the suggestions, other than the idle issue, it is truly running like a BEAST!!!!

[mike100]

that curly-q tube is hard to keep in place while you are setting the plenum down. That's why I mention it... or it could have popped out of the rubber block on the solenoid end. I scuffed mine up with sandpaper so it would stay in the rubber coupler block thing.

[Roadster]

That's why Yun and Jim use the "famous" block of wood to keep the front of the plenum raised to make sure everything remains in place....but valid points made....again appreciated....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

If you have a scanner, you can look at the IAC counts. If that number is zero, then the iac is closed off as much as it can and will not be able to lower the idle any further. zero counts is usually indicative of a stuck open throttlebody, leaky throttle body, or large vacuum leak.

Ok checked out throttle cable for play, seemed fine. Changed the IAC since I had one, and went out for a ride with the Tech 1 to get some results. At first start-up the IAC was at 20. TPS was at .52v
And off I went. Engine is very responsive and idle was somewhat under control. Most of the time it was under 1000 r's when stopped. Although there times when it was a 1000 r's or slightly higher, it did seem to fluctuate slightly. I did notice that the IAC did register "0" at any idle speed whether higher or lower after driving for a few miles. As soon as I would come off idle the IAC would go higher.
TPS was now reading @ .54v and would come down to .52v and back to .54v when stopped and idling.
So I imagine that although the throttle cable seem fine, it may be possible that there some slight play because of the idle difference as opposed to a vacuum leak. I will have to check out the throttle body blades further.

On a side note, I did a hot restart before going in the garage and I got the alternator fan blade noise back again. And I thought I corrected that yesterday, oh well!!! Either going to change the fan blade if I can with the alternator in place or just changing out the alternator. If it ends up coming out, that unit is not going back in!!!!

[Racinfan83]

Sounds to me like the bearings are bad in the alternator. Not sure how the blades could just bend themselves?

[secondchance]

Something strange is going on... Never had any issue with fan blade hitting alternator housing. Maybe spacer/washer was installed incorrect when it was rebuilt?
There should be 1/8" clearance from the fan blade edge to the housing.

Tom,
If you have a good elect. impact wrench, with a universal and extension, you can break the nut loose with the alternator on the car. Also, take the nut off your old, dead alternator and take a mental note of sequence and look where the spacers/washers are. See if the alternator on the car has same stacking.

[Roadster]

Sounds to me like the bearings are bad in the alternator. Not sure how the blades could just bend themselves?

That's what I thought myself, but being it is a rebuilt alternator, that shouldn't be or is the case. Not that it can't happen.
When I take the tension off the belt, I can then rotate the alternator pulley in either direction. Not only can you see, but also feel where parts of the fan blade actually scrape against the housing. After numerous attempts to correct this I thought it was a done deal. But after yesterday's ride, I was proven wrong.
And when the blades were pried or bent by me, and not rubbing, alternator was quiet as could be. Don't think the blades just bent themselves, rather the housing is slightly wrapped, or the blades are, or as Yun mentioned below, maybe the spacer/washer was installed incorrect.
Of course the fan blade is now toast and will probably get hung up on the garage wall.:)

Something strange is going on... Never had any issue with fan blade hitting alternator housing. Maybe spacer/washer was installed incorrect when it was rebuilt?
There should be 1/8" clearance from the fan blade edge to the housing.

Tom,
If you have a good elect. impact wrench, with a universal and extension, you can break the nut loose with the alternator on the car. Also, take the nut off your old, dead alternator and take a mental note of sequence and look where the spacers/washers are. See if the alternator on the car has same stacking.

Will try that Yun, I hope my electric impact is strong enough to do the job. Otherwise might take a breaker bar and the persuader to it. But really leaning on either re-clocking the 200 amp unit that I had also purchased, or reinstalling the original one that was taken out. If I go that route, will check out the brushes and other internals first. Was going to do some tonight, but might just wait until tomorrow, as I have all day. No big rush anymore.:-D

Other than that, the LT5 runs fantastic........

[Roadster]

Doing some research on the idle, butterflies opening and closing, and WOT adjustment. And learning as I go along...

Used the Tech 1 with engine off and key on, TPS setting with throttle closed is..
.52v @ 0% with WOT TPS 4.54v @ 100%
So since I am opening @ 100% with WOT the throttle cable is operating correctly. The only thing I don't understand is if I let my foot off the accelerator normally, the TPS is @ .54v if I let my foot off quickly TPS is @ .52v Could that difference between .54v & .52v be the reason for my idle having a slight fluctuation as described earlier? Or is the difference between the two readings so minor, that it would not have any affect on the idle at all? thanks for any info.......

on a side note, my electric impact is not strong enough to undo any pulley nut on any alternator, just doesn't have the power.....lol looks like the alternator removal job starts tomorrow......

[Blownrunner]

Ok checked out throttle cable for play, seemed fine. Changed the IAC since I had one, and went out for a ride with the Tech 1 to get some results. At first start-up the IAC was at 20. TPS was at .52v
And off I went. Engine is very responsive and idle was somewhat under control. Most of the time it was under 1000 r's when stopped. Although there times when it was a 1000 r's or slightly higher, it did seem to fluctuate slightly. I did notice that the IAC did register "0" at any idle speed whether higher or lower after driving for a few miles. As soon as I would come off idle the IAC would go higher.
TPS was now reading @ .54v and would come down to .52v and back to .54v when stopped and idling.
So I imagine that although the throttle cable seem fine, it may be possible that there some slight play because of the idle difference as opposed to a vacuum leak. I will have to check out the throttle body blades further.

On a side note, I did a hot restart before going in the garage and I got the alternator fan blade noise back again. And I thought I corrected that yesterday, oh well!!! Either going to change the fan blade if I can with the alternator in place or just changing out the alternator. If it ends up coming out, that unit is not going back in!!!!

Thinking about the fan blade issue... have you considered a bad bearing or something bent internally? It seems unusual to me how it rubs sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. When I got my 91', I did a light restoration on the whole car which included having the alternator and starter rebuilt. I would pull the alternator and do a full rebuild on it. After all it is 20+ years old.

[Roadster]

Thinking about the fan blade issue... have you considered a bad bearing or something bent internally? It seems unusual to me how it rubs sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. When I got my 91', I did a light restoration on the whole car which included having the alternator and starter rebuilt. I would pull the alternator and do a full rebuild on it. After all it is 20+ years old.

Appreciate the thoughts, but the original alternator is sitting on my garage work bench. It was replaced with a rebuilt unit when the plenum pull was done last weekend. Yes it did seem unusual that during the 2:20hr drive home there wasn't any noise whatsoever. But on the following day during one of the restarts, the noise started. I also thought at first that the noise was a bad bearing. But apparently that is not the case. Rather, the fan blade is the problem. As mentioned earlier, numerous attempts to "straighten" out the blade were and are not successful. Only for a few short times, did it seem to work, where I thought the problem was corrected. There isn't any play with the pulley that I can detect, and unless the housing is wrapped, it has to be the fan blade. So it's coming out, no need to do a full rebuild, just not using this unit at all.
That was my intention, doing a light rebuild which was very successful, but things happen and this is one of them.

[dredgeguy]

Tom, last year when I had my car at the.... (ugh I know, I know,...Chev dealer) I had the same problem. When I took my car to Dempsey to undue all the screw-ups from the dealer he found out why the alternator fan was hitting.....the alternator was missing a bolt! Just make sure they are all there and one did not work itself out. Keep us posted.

[Dynomite]

on a side note, my electric impact is not strong enough to undo any pulley nut on any alternator, just doesn't have the power.....lol looks like the alternator removal job starts tomorrow......

This always works.......Using a 15/16 inch modified Open End Wrench and 5/16 Allen Wrench. Sometimes add another box wrench hooked on the open end wrench for leverage.


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/ff38332f-db3b-470c-badc-a0a14de41c4b.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/226cd3ef-e2bf-4c9c-8cb4-a195b58bac99.jpg

All Aluminum Alternator Pulley (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-13.html#post1592505495)

[Roadster]

Tom, last year when I had my car at the.... (ugh I know, I know,...Chev dealer) I had the same problem. When I took my car to Dempsey to undue all the screw-ups from the dealer he found out why the alternator fan was hitting.....the alternator was missing a bolt! Just make sure they are all there and one did not work itself out. Keep us posted.


Well Charlie, you were right.....there was a loose bolt on the bottom, which may have played a part with the fan blade hitting the housing. Since I got this far, the alternator came out.....


This always works.......Using a 15/16 inch modified Open End Wrench and 5/16 Allen Wrench. Sometimes add another box wrench hooked on the open end wrench for leverage.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind for the next time, but glad I am changing it out....

[Roadster]

Ok, the alternator is out and here are some minor details.....
I followed the list from member KPW and what member garyhugo is currently in the process of doing.....

Now that I have the alternator out, I could have saved a few steps. With watching a ZR-1 You Tube video on alternator removal, and finally looking at the FSM, Book 1, 6D3-5 explains the removal with the Plenum on and answered my question about the lower bracket removal. I did not remove the lower bracket completely. Took 3 bolts out and left the fourth one in and just slid the bracket over. When removing the other 3 bolts pay attention to the size for all 3 as specified in the FSM.
I ended up removing the IAC also just for extra clearance, and some other connectors. Now instead of trying to wiggle the alternator in a downward position and then upwards, it was quite easy to bring the alternator out and upwards. It came right out. Now knowing this I don't think it was necessary to loosen the bolt to the IH. All that would have been needed to do was remove the rear bolt on the alternator, because once again you are coming forward and upward. No need for a lot of wiggle. Also I did not have to remove the belt tensioner. Now that's not to say you wouldn't have to, you would have to determine that when you get to that part. Mine was not in the way....
Here are some pics of the job!!!

In pic #2, I am debating on whether to change the airhorn gasket. It looks in good shape for its age with no tears....thoughts welcome...change or don't change???

The beginning...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_162849.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_162849.jpg.html)
Airhorn removal & gasket...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170251.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170251.jpg.html)
Teardown in progress...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170312.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170312.jpg.html)
oil pressure sensor removed...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170741.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170741.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Oil pressure sensor connection needs some cleaning as do some other items...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170822.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_170822.jpg.html)
some of the brackets removed...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_183853.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_183853.jpg.html)
lower alternator I was questioning until I read the FSM....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_183948.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_183948.jpg.html)
the culprit...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202359.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202359.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

check out the scrapping marks and the fan blades making contact...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202434.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202434.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202445.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202445.jpg.html)
alternator out, easy peasy....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202459.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202459.jpg.html)
the lower bracket slid over and not removed.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202508.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170130_202508.jpg.html)

[secondchance]

Is the alternator shaft wobbling? Bearing ok? Any idea why the blade was scraping?

I take the blame for the loose bolt...

[Roadster]

Is the alternator shaft wobbling? Bearing ok? Any idea why the blade was scraping?

I take the blame for the loose bolt...

Alternator shaft not wobbling, bearing is fine.....I still think the fan was not quite right. I'm not sure the loose bolt was the problem, as was the problem in Charlie's case, where his bolt was missing altogether. But then again with engine vibration. The alternator was still very tight in the brackets....
Either way, no biggie!!!

No blame to be taken.....after the job you did.....getting my secondaries back...
Actually glad this happen, as it gives me more knowledge and experience with this engine. Plus I intend on cleaning up some more areas in the process..

[Roadster]

Well found the problem with the rebuilt unit as to why the fan blade was making contact. As Yun suggested it could be a spacer problem and that's what it looks like it turned out to be.
Although I took pics, my phone camera is acting weird, so I don't have all of them to show.
Since my old electric battery powered impact gun wasn't strong enough to do the job, I went to Lowes and purchased an electric corded unit with up to 350 ft.lbs torque. Needless to say it worked fine uninstalling and reinstalling the pulleys as needed.
Pulled the pulley off my original unit and there is a nut 15/16", a washer, pulley and a spacer about 1/2" or so long. The rebuilt unit did not have the washer behind the nut or the spacer between the rear of the pulley and the front of the fan blade.
Took the 200 amp unit I have and clocked the housing correctly and used my original nut, washer, pulley, spacer and fan blade.....ready to go!!!

Nut off the rebuilt unit, no washer...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170131_110913.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170131_110913.jpg.html)
no spacer between the pulley and fan blade...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170131_110935.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170131_110935.jpg.html)
original unit on left, 200 amp unit on right, not clocked correctly...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170131_113354.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170131_113354.jpg.html)
correctly clocked, ready to go....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170131_133007.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170131_133007.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170131_120455.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170131_120455.jpg.html)

[dredgeguy]

Nice job Tom, way to stick with it and find the problem. Congrats!

[secondchance]

it was puzzling at first but with fan blade scraping occurring intermittently I started to suspect spacer/washer issue. without the spacer behind the pulley, belt as being driven can push or release against the fan along the circumference of the pulley. This in turn will move the blade relative to the alternator housing.
Glad this mystery is solved!

[GOLDCYLON]

Where did you get this alternator I had the same problem in December the Bushing was the problem. It just failed on Monday after 7 weeks of performance

[Roadster]

Nice job Tom, way to stick with it and find the problem. Congrats!

Thanks Charlie, it may take me longer, but I am persistent....:)

it was puzzling at first but with fan blade scraping occurring intermittently I started to suspect spacer/washer issue. without the spacer behind the pulley, belt as being driven can push or release against the fan along the circumference of the pulley. This in turn will move the blade relative to the alternator housing.
Glad this mystery is solved!

Good call Yun, you can say that again.....another one for the books....as they say....:-D



Just as a precaution to anyone getting a rebuilt unit from any supplier, check out everything before the install. Even if it means undoing the pulley to make sure that the correct washer and spacer is there, otherwise use your parts off of the unit you are replacing.

[GOLDCYLON]

Pmed ya

[mike100]

So what alternator do you purchase for the LT5. Is it a standard vette item that just needs to be reclocked for our application, or from another vehicle entirely?

[Roadster]

Pmed ya

received and replied....

So what alternator do you purchase for the LT5. Is it a standard vette item that just needs to be reclocked for our application, or from another vehicle entirely?

Well the 200 amp unit I purchased was off of ebay and listed as a ZR-1 unit.
I am almost sure this is the one that Dynomite listed awhile ago in one of his threads. Will look up the info....
The way it came through it was clocked wrong as stated, other than that, it is the same.
It may be that the ZR-1 unit is different from the standard Vette unit, I am not really sure. And don't know if there is another vehicle application that will fit ours. Maybe someone could add to this!!!

Update.....this is the 200amp unit I purchased awhile ago and it does show that it will fit either the base or ZR-1
only thing is the pulley is to small for us, you will have to use your old pulley on this unit or the pulley from Summit that was also mentioned in Dynomite's thread....and most likely re-clock the housing, which is no biggie.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Alternator-Chevy-Corvette-ZR1-200-HIGH-AMP-91-92-95-High-Output-/252701608578?fits=Model%3ACorvette%7CSubmodel%3AZR-1&hash=item3ad6308a82:g:FREAAOSwo8hTqZUQ&vxp=mtr

[FU]

Bought a 200 amp off e-bay did the same thing. After the fix the alternator lasted about 2 months. Put the original alternator back in/

[Roadster]

Bought a 200 amp off e-bay did the same thing. After the fix the alternator lasted about 2 months. Put the original alternator back in/

Frank, was it purchased from the same seller as the link above?
What happened after 2 months, did you ever check it out further as to the reason why??

[GOLDCYLON]

Yep that's were I got mine. Got a month out of it and then it failed

[Roadster]

Yep that's were I got mine. Got a month out of it and then it failed

Was yours also the 200 amp unit?
Because if that's the case, I'll take mine apart and rebuilt it, rather than use this replacement. That's two failures, you and Frank, not good. Don't feel like doing this again for a long time....live and learn!!!

Added questions for both of you regarding the failure?

1-did you determine what caused the failure?
2-did you change the pulley to the correct size pulley?

Because if you used the pulley that came with the unit, which is much smaller, that would surely lead to early failure....thanks for any additional info....

[FU]

I didn't see this thread till the other day. We bought the same alternator from the same company. Mine was bought 4+ years ago. Long story short...After it was taken apart to put the spacer in the alt. it was also discovered that the pulley was the wrong one for the ZR1. That's how they get the amp rating up by putting a smaller pulley on the alt. By then the original unit was rebuilt by instructions from Dynomite and it was decided to install the original unit back..
The 200 amp alt. was used for a door stop until Sandy got it.

[GOLDCYLON]

Was yours also the 200 amp unit?
Because if that's the case, I'll take mine apart and rebuilt it, rather than use this replacement. That's two failures, you and Frank, not good. Don't feel like doing this again for a long time....live and learn!!!

YES

Added questions for both of you regarding the failure?

1-did you determine what caused the failure?

NO

2-did you change the pulley to the correct size pulley?

YES and reused my spacer off of my failed unit

Because if you used the pulley that came with the unit, which is much smaller, that would surely lead to early failure....thanks for any additional info....

I never used the smaller pulley

[lfalzarano]

Don't screw around a get a completely reconditioned one from Jerry's Gaskets. BTW - when installing it, the connecting wires are old and brittle and may need to be replaced.

The other alternators on the market are just repaired... There are other parts that can fail.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[FU]

Frank, was it purchased from the same seller as the link above?
What happened after 2 months, did you ever check it out further as to the reason why??

I remember this was the same seller. Never checked it out just chalked it up to experience and put the fixed stock alt. back in.

[Roadster]

Decided to go with an Autozone Duralast Alternator DL 1457-6-1 (124 amp) and also a set of brushes for my original unit. Total cost shipped to my door $106.41 and no core needed...
They have a promotion going on for online purchases and free ground shipping.
Not a bad deal!!!

Now you may say how bad they are or don't last, etc., etc. But I have read a lot of reviews on all of the store brands available, and they all do have some unfavorable reviews, but they are also from 5-8 years ago.
Also it appears to be a crap shoot from where the unit is remanufactured, so just have to take the chance.
Some of the upper end units that are made here and are completely brand new, are very expensive to say the least.
The amount of driving I do with the 94, (5000 miles or under) per year will probably take me double or triple the amount of time for a failure to occur, if indeed one ever does occur. And I will be always having a spare with me just in case.
So I may reinstall the original unit after I replace the brushes, or the Duralast replacement, or the 200 amp paper weight sitting on my work bench. It may be time to spin the bottle to make that decision.:dontknow::rolleyes:

[Dynomite]

Just some additional information

The Correct Size Alternator Pulley is about 2.75 inch OD on the face....This ALL Aluminum Pulley is very light and just tad larger yet very close to 2.75 inches diameter. It is a little Pricey from Summit Racing. The Installation is very easy with my 15/16 inch modified Open End Wrench and 5/16 Allen Wrench.

The MCH-208 is the same Diameter as the Stock Pulley. Actually the MCH-208 is just a tad larger diameter.
Use a 1/2 inch Adapter on Socket Wrench to Unload the Belt Tensioner when removing/installing Pulleys.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/992f36c2-d357-4f2c-9918-b3ac31b4ab6b.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/67a37c9c-32a1-4b77-94b5-713abc386e8b.jpg

The Offset of the MCH-208 is identical to the Stock Pulley.
The Stock Pulley has a removable Offset Collar which is NOT used in the installation of the Aluminum Pulley.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/e46c590e-d00e-4741-a26c-7e801ba3feb6.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/36a4d85d-9179-4855-b52d-0d4b50df52c5.jpg

All Aluminum Alternator Pulley (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-13.html#post1592505495)

Backup Tail Light Switch and Rebuilding Chrome Alternator (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564069)



Just installed this Chrome Alternator in my L98 with same size Pulley.....charges great even at idle.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/fb4c9868-d37d-4f6b-acff-d7a120547e7f.jpg

[secondchance]

Just some additional information

The Correct Size Alternator Pulley is about 2.75 inch OD on the face....This ALL Aluminum Pulley is very light and just tad larger yet very close to 2.75 inches diameter. It is a little Pricey from Summit Racing. The Installation is very easy with my 15/16 inch modified Open End Wrench and 5/16 Allen Wrench.

The MCH-208 is the same Diameter as the Stock Pulley. Actually the MCH-208 is just a tad larger diameter.
Use a 1/2 inch Adapter on Socket Wrench to Unload the Belt Tensioner when removing/installing Pulleys.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/992f36c2-d357-4f2c-9918-b3ac31b4ab6b.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/67a37c9c-32a1-4b77-94b5-713abc386e8b.jpg

The Offset of the MCH-208 is identical to the Stock Pulley.
The Stock Pulley has a removable Offset Collar which is NOT used in the installation of the Aluminum Pulley.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/e46c590e-d00e-4741-a26c-7e801ba3feb6.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/36a4d85d-9179-4855-b52d-0d4b50df52c5.jpg

All Aluminum Alternator Pulley (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-13.html#post1592505495)

Backup Tail Light Switch and Rebuilding Chrome Alternator (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564069)



Just installed this Chrome Alternator in my L98 with same size Pulley.....charges great even at idle.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/fb4c9868-d37d-4f6b-acff-d7a120547e7f.jpg

I use the same alternator pulley (minus the bullet cap) and it looks great!

[Roadster]

Just some additional information

The Correct Size Alternator Pulley is about 2.75 inch OD on the face....This ALL Aluminum Pulley is very light and just tad larger yet very close to 2.75 inches diameter. It is a little Pricey from Summit Racing. The Installation is very easy with my 15/16 inch modified Open End Wrench and 5/16 Allen Wrench.


I use the same alternator pulley (minus the bullet cap) and it looks great!

Right now I have 2 correct size pulleys. One gets returned to Jim at the next WAZOO and the other is my original. Will wait and see what the Duralast unit comes through with, before a possible purchase of the Summit unit. As I have even a bigger surprise being delivered tomorrow. So don't want to spend any extra $$$ for now....lol did I really say that after what I been spending on my ZR-1???? lol

[Jagdpanzer]

Never add it up and you will be fine.

[secondchance]

Never add it up and you will be fine.

Hear you! I lost my spread sheet...

[Roadster]

Never add it up and you will be fine.

That's not a problem, as I have forgotten how to add!!!
must be the age!!!

Hear you! I lost my spread sheet...

Spread sheet, what spread sheet??? I really be in trouble if I used a one of those.....lol...

[Roadster]

Missed the alternator delivery last night, was out and they needed a signature, so delivery today...getting ready to sand and spray the bottom side of the fender covers. So in the meantime sprayed the airhorn with a can of paint from Jerrys. I like the shade and yes it will probably stick out from the plenum in color, but that paint job is for a later time....

Bottom side of airhorn prepped....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_112830.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_112830.jpg.html)
Top side of airhorn that was prepped and sprayed. Drying now, may not need an additional coat, came out good, very satisfied!!! That "paint line" on the left side is a reflection from the ceiling lighting in that position...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_120749.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_120749.jpg.html)
Completed with another coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_123336.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_123336.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Alternator delivered.....
FYI....it appears that Remy rebuilt units have the wrong pulley, no washer behind the nut and no collar between the fan and the back of the pulley.
Although technology has advanced over the years, pulleys now have built in collars, but that doesn't mean they are going to be the same spec as our units.
I also noticed that the fan that came with the rebuilt unit today was very close to the housing as before when I had the trouble. I replaced everything from the original unit to the newer rebuilt unit, and I have more clearance with the original fan. So it also seems that the fans are slightly different than the original ones.
So you either have the choice of getting the pulley from Summit as Cliff has recommended, or use the original....JMO
Decided not to use my original alternator as you can hear some bearing noise when spinning. Good time to rebuild and keep as a spare.

Rebuilt Remy....no washer, no collar...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_155121.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_155121.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_160504.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_160504.jpg.html)
original parts on newer rebuilt unit...ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170208_162651.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170208_162651.jpg.html)

[GOLDCYLON]

Yep that's were I got mine. Got a month out of it and then it failed

I want to update this post as Tom and I spoke on the Phone. This 200Amp EBay Alternator failed within a month. I had no idea why. I asked for a replacement as I installed another 200Amp Alternator that I bought from the same vendor. The vendor said no problem send back the alternator we will replace it. Then the second 200Amp Alternator failed two days later. I emailed the vendor on EBay what had happened I stated "bluntly I am not installing a 3rd Alternator from you folks.. one Alternator failing happens... another 2 days later is a manufacturing problem." They apologized and agreed. I shipped both Alternators Monday and received a PayPal refund for both alternators today. I noticed on this 2nd Alternator a burned smell and something floating around inside it like a leaf. If I was to hazard a guess I think the rectifier fried internally. What was left was the bits floating around in the case? In both my alternators I did not have the clocking issue mentioned by Tom. I did however have the smaller pulley with no spacer issue.

I was happy that they did refund my money when the EBAY auction said they would only offer replacement coverage for 1 year. I mention this NOT to slime the vendor however, they may be an issue on who is re manufacturing these alternators. As Tom mentioned his new DELCO REMY unit had similar short comings with the smaller pulley and lack of a spacer. Tom and I are putting this out to the community to be aware of. I have no idea where these two Alternators were made/remanufactured as it was shipped in a well padded generic box with zero markings. Tom told me his was made or remanufactured in Mexico. In this global economy it's hard to know where the parts are coming from these days.

I Remember a few short years ago Bill Boudreau discovered a problem with the seals being installed backwards inside the clutch master cylinders and clutch slave cylinders replacements. It took a while for that to sort itself out however,everyone was made aware of it and it eventually did sort itself out after massive returns due to the failures. GC

[Dynomite]

Well.....Daryll........I do not know what to say except I have two new 200 amp alternators (1991 ZR-1 and 1995 ZR-1) and both work perfectly. The 95 took us 1,000 miles one way to Canadian Boarder with no issues with 200 amp alternator.

The 91 is 500 hp with new 200 amp Alternator with no issues. I recall I got them both on Ebay.

Maybe you installed the alternator backward ????








just teasing :D

[GOLDCYLON]

Well.....Daryll........I do not know what to say except I have two new 200 amp alternators (1991 ZR-1 and 1995 ZR-1) and both work perfectly. The 95 took us 1,000 miles one way to Canadian Boarder with no issues with 200 amp alternator.
The 91 is 500 hp with new 200 amp Alternator with no issues. I recall I got them both on Ebay.

Yep your mileage may vary. What was the vendors name? I could have just had a horrible run of luck or?

Oh HA HA Cliff:p

[Dynomite]

Yep your mileage may vary. What was the vendors name? I could have just had a horrible run of luck or?

I will check but think I got these over a two years ago and cannot find the Ebay listing........... but will check again.........must have bought the alternators in 2014 and ebay does not store those purchases that far back.

[Roadster]

Thanks GC for that post further explaining the situation at hand. Just to add here what we spoke about during our conversation.
I also purchased the same 200 amp alternator from the same vendor. I do not have any intentions of installing that unit because of said complications. So I'll probably eat this one:-({|=

Now it does seem that no matter who and where you purchase the Remy 124 amp units from, the 3 I've seen, including the one delivered today are all remanufactured in Mexico. Now as mentioned above about the hardware that is attached to these units or lack of, leaves a lot to be desired IMO.
The unit itself worked fine and charged my system without any problem the short time it was installed after the plenum pull. It was the issue of the hardware that caused the fan to hit the case. Now I don't have the knowledge of knowing if the hardware is produced in Mexico, or if they import the hardware from other countries. But it appears to me that the fans are pitched ever so slightly different. Again, when I installed the fan, spacer washer and nut from my original, the clearance was fine. With their fan, my spacer, washer, and nut installed, their fan was closer to the housing, just like before. Now I may have been alright with it like that because of the correct spacer installed. But I am not willing to take that chance.

Now there is an alternative, if you do a search and or get a recommendation from another member like I received, there are some high $$$ units out there. A little costly for an alternator, but an alternative. I did come across another 200 amp unit that was reasonable from another vendor, but I have enough units as it is...

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks GC for that post further explaining the situation at hand. Just to add here what we spoke about during our conversation.
I also purchased the same 200 amp alternator from the same vendor. I do not have any intentions of installing that unit because of said complications. So I'll probably eat this one:-({|=

Now it does seem that no matter who and where you purchase the Remy 124 amp units from, the 3 I've seen, including the one delivered today are all remanufactured in Mexico. Now as mentioned above about the hardware that is attached to these units or lack of, leaves a lot to be desired IMO.
The unit itself worked fine and charged my system without any problem the short time it was installed after the plenum pull. It was the issue of the hardware that caused the fan to hit the case. Now I don't have the knowledge of knowing if the hardware is produced in Mexico, or if they import the hardware from other countries. But it appears to me that the fans are pitched ever so slightly different. Again, when I installed the fan, spacer washer and nut from my original, the clearance was fine. With their fan, my spacer, washer, and nut installed, their fan was closer to the housing, just like before. Now I may have been alright with it like that because of the correct spacer installed. But I am not willing to take that chance.

Now there is an alternative, if you do a search and or get a recommendation from another member like I received, there are some high $$$ units out there. A little costly for an alternator, but an alternative. I did come across another 200 amp unit that was reasonable from another vendor, but I have enough units as it is...

Tom great talking to you.. yeah that sums that up. I still have another DELCO REMY unit I bought off of Hib during his fire sale so I am going to take a tactical pause for a while as well. I like the one Cliff has ( Polished Chrome) but I have more work to do on the 90 when it comes back from paint to include.

1. Webelectrics DRL kit
2. SIlicone two piece PCV hose upgrade
3. Underwood light ON/OFF-switches
4. Install new LED Headlights lights

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks GC for that post further explaining the situation at hand. Just to add here what we spoke about during our conversation.
I also purchased the same 200 amp alternator from the same vendor. I do not have any intentions of installing that unit because of said complications. So I'll probably eat this one:-({|=.

I'd send it back for a replacement and then rebuid the return myself.. this event chapped my hide a little. I'll admit that. :handshak:

However sharing this snarl to advise or hopefully prevent another brother from not being informed works for me as well. Tom I'm sure as well as a WAZOO member.

[Roadster]

Tom great talking to you.. yeah that sums that up. I still have another DELCO REMY unit I bought off of Hib during his fire sale so I am going to take a tactical pause for a while as well. I like the one Cliff has ( Polished Chrome) but I have more work to do on the 90 when it comes back from paint to include.

1. Webelectrics DRL kit
2. SIlicone two piece PCV hose upgrade
3. Underwood light ON/OFF-switches
4. Install new LED Headlights lights

Sounds like you have a lot going on with your list!!!
When you see personally see the headlights, you are going to like them a lot...for sure!!!
And don't forget to post pics of the paint work when the 90 returns...

I'd send it back for a replacement and then rebuid the return myself.. this event chapped my hide a little. I'll admit that. :handshak:

However sharing this snarl to advise or hopefully prevent another brother from not being informed works for me as well. Tom I'm sure as well as a WAZOO member.


Can't send the 200 amp back for a replacement, as that one was never used....
I may just pull it apart and watch some videos and learn how to checkout all of the internals.
So far Cliff has the best alternative for a pulley replacement. Although I did find another site which may have a pulley or two that will work for us. Further investigation is needed. Need to take many measurements....lol

[Dynomite]

I like the one Cliff has ( Polished Chrome) but I have more work to do on the 90 when it comes back from paint to include.



I got that Chrome Alternator from t5irocz for $100 as a non working alternator but it is now working superbly :p

All it needed was a new rectifier......The Chrome Alternator came with new bearings ;)

Installed it on my L98 where it sits out right on top after adding the TPiS Air pump delete kit and MCH-208 Aluminum Alternator Pulley as well as the Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite19/fb4c9868-d37d-4f6b-acff-d7a120547e7f.jpg

[Roadster]

Alternator should be going back in tomorrow, ordered a electrical wire boot for the alternator which also be at the parts store in the AM.
In the meantime, work is progressing.....

Before going in the paint booth...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170209_174443.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170209_174443.jpg.html)
In the open paint booth and finished...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170211_133818.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170211_133818.jpg.html)
Completed, now drying in the house time....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170211_142850.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170211_142850.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Alternator is in, still have things to do before starting the engine...
FYI if you need a wire boot for the alternator, you can check your local parts stores for a Dorman #85684.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170212_131142.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170212_131142.jpg.html)
You will need to cut the boot in order to get the connector through, unless you undid the connector and slid the wire through, then reconnect. Easier to slice the boot, connect and use electrical tape around the bottom.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170212_134542.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170212_134542.jpg.html)
Alternator went in with no problem, just takes some time to line everything up and make sure that all bolts are tighten...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170212_163654.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170212_163654.jpg.html)

[QB93Z]

That looks really nice Tom. Good Job.

Jim

[GOLDCYLON]

Hmm I would have drilled out the bottom of the boot? Nice clean up on the brackets I did the same thing. I make a project out of everything while I am there lol

[Roadster]

That looks really nice Tom. Good Job.

Jim

Thanks Jim....:)

Hmm I would have drilled out the bottom of the boot? Nice clean up on the brackets I did the same thing. I make a project out of everything while I am there lol

I didn't think about drilling out the bottom....that electrical connector for the alternator is quite large, it barely made it through the slit....lol
Thanks on the brackets, I too make a project of everything, although I could have cleaned this and that.....but that is for another day....


Will have an update later, as I am in the process of cleaning the primary butterfly in the throttle body. It was almost completely black with carbon. Wait til you see the q-tips!!!
The secondary butterflies had some carbon on the plate itself, just wiped that off, but did not disturb the "dag" (think I have that right) on the bottom of the plates.
Hopefully that cleaning of the primary plate will correct the slight idle issue I have been having.....
Off to the garage!!!

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks Jim....:)



I didn't think about drilling out the bottom....that electrical connector for the alternator is quite large, it barely made it through the slit....lol
Thanks on the brackets, I too make a project of everything, although I could have cleaned this and that.....but that is for another day....


Will have an update later, as I am in the process of cleaning the primary butterfly in the throttle body. It was almost completely black with carbon. Wait til you see the q-tips!!!
The secondary butterflies had some carbon on the plate itself, just wiped that off, but did not disturb the "dag" (think I have that right) on the bottom of the plates.
Hopefully that cleaning of the primary plate will correct the slight idle issue I have been having.....
Off to the garage!!!


Hmm describe this idle issue.... yes Dag is the correct term....

[Roadster]

Hmm describe this idle issue.... yes Dag is the correct term....

From post #40 in this thread....
"Beautiful weather here today, so I washed the 94 went for a ride, and came home. Now since the plenum pull I have noticed my idle at times being at
1000-1100 rpm's when stopped. Sometimes after driving and stopping again, it would come down to 800 rpm's"
"Cleaned out the IAC, had a load of carbon in there, put back in and all is good on the idle side.....on start ups, the engine revs up to 1700 r's and come right back down to 700 r's.....idle sounds real good....."

from post #47 in this thread...

Originally Posted by mike100
"Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running."

"I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol"

I also used my Harbor freight digital camera today to look under the plenum in various spots. and everything is looking good, and no hoses came loose...

[Roadster]

All done, and ready to fire up.....

cleaned the primary butterfly inside and out, and this is how much carbon was in there.....hoping this will solve the minor idle issue...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113914.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113914.jpg.html)
cleaned the air duct with q-tips and a rag, was also cruddy...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123339.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123339.jpg.html)
from inside one of the hoses that attaches to the airhorn...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_112134.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_112134.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

getting back together...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113811.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113811.jpg.html)
I may be the only two-tone plenum/airhorn assembly in ZR-1 land...lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123416.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123416.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123451.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123451.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123409.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123409.jpg.html)

I like the color of the paint, will likely do everything the same shade, but that is for sometime down the road...:-D

[GOLDCYLON]

From post #40 in this thread....
"Beautiful weather here today, so I washed the 94 went for a ride, and came home. Now since the plenum pull I have noticed my idle at times being at
1000-1100 rpm's when stopped. Sometimes after driving and stopping again, it would come down to 800 rpm's"
"Cleaned out the IAC, had a load of carbon in there, put back in and all is good on the idle side.....on start ups, the engine revs up to 1700 r's and come right back down to 700 r's.....idle sounds real good....."

from post #47 in this thread...

Originally Posted by mike100
"Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running."

"I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol"

I also used my Harbor freight digital camera today to look under the plenum in various spots. and everything is looking good, and no hoses came loose...


When stopping at the elevated idle. Will it go away with a quick rap of the throttle?

[Roadster]

When stopping at the elevated idle. Will it go away with a quick rap of the throttle?

No it doesn't....
still did not start the engine as of yet, doing tool clean up and putting everything away....will start it soon, but not going out on the road without the fender covers installed...will probably go around the block a few times...

[BigJohn]

Is it the black car?

[Roadster]

Is it the black car?

yes it is the black car!!!

[Roadster]

Ok, got the tools wiped down and put away.....
Started the engine and it fired right up instantly. Idle went up and came back down to around 700 r's. Did not go for a ride, but let it warn up to 207* in the garage (with the door open, lol).
Alternator read around 14.9v then settled to 14.6v. Did some hot restarts (started within 2-4 seconds, alternator would read 11v to 10.4v during the restart) and then it could go up as high as 15.1v and settled down again @14.6v. Fans came on @205* and alternator went down from 14.6v to 14.4v. So I am happy with this rebuilt unit and I like the way my original alternator fan is spaced away from the housing. And that means no more fan noise from hitting the housing....:)
The idle issue appears to have improved, but will not know for sure until I get out on the road for some stop and go driving. Also revved the engine multiple times to 2000 and above rpm's, came back down to around 700 to 800 r's. Once it did idle around 900 r's and then when I put the trans in gear and let the clutch out slightly the r's would drop lower to 650-700 r's and stay there.
Now, onto the fender covers in the other thread...

[Tripler]

Great thread with tons of info and great pics Tom . Thanks for these updates . Hope it is all sorted now for BG ...

;)

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[nelson007]

What brand of paint did you you use Tom, it looks great?
Nelson




getting back together...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113811.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_113811.jpg.html)
I may be the only two-tone plenum/airhorn assembly in ZR-1 land...lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123416.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123416.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123451.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123451.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123409.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170213_123409.jpg.html)

I like the color of the paint, will likely do everything the same shade, but that is for sometime down the road...:-D

[Roadster]

Great thread with tons of info and great pics Tom . Thanks for these updates . Hope it is all sorted now for BG ...

;)

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks Mike, won't make BG this year, but already registered for Carlisle:D
Be sure to take pics at BG, it should be a blast!!! Have a great time, say hi to Deslie for me!!!


What brand of paint did you use Tom, it looks great?
Nelson

Thanks Nelson, I tried the Lingenfelter Grey paint from Jerry's. Flows good with nice adhesion, but as you can see in the pic the air horn is a slightly different shade from the plenum. And I don't know what the actual shade should be. Not ready to tackle that job yet, so for now it is two-tone. :)