View Full Version : Clutch disc question???
Roadster
11-30-2016, 02:21 AM
Being doing a lot of research reading here for the clutch system(s) available for our vehicles. I may have missed this along the way, but will a sprung hub clutch disc work with our DM stock setup? It seems that the people who have used this type of disc, use it with a lighter aluminum FW.
Thanks for any info.......
Scrrem
11-30-2016, 08:20 AM
Being doing a lot of research reading here for the clutch system(s) available for our vehicles. I may have missed this along the way, but will a sprung hub clutch disc work with our DM stock setup? It seems that the people who have used this type of disc, use it with a lighter aluminum FW.
Thanks for any info.......
Tom,
You don't really need to use a sprung hub clutch with the DM, not sure if there is clearance in the DM for it, maybe someone else can chime in. The sprung hub clutches are for use with the Fidanza and other SM FW to reduce the rattle.
Rich
Jagdpanzer
11-30-2016, 10:02 AM
DM flywheels do not have a center recess to allow clearance for the clutch disc spring hub.
Roadster
11-30-2016, 12:23 PM
Tom,
You don't really need to use a sprung hub clutch with the DM, not sure if there is clearance in the DM for it, maybe someone else can chime in. The sprung hub clutches are for use with the Fidanza and other SM FW to reduce the rattle.
Rich
Thanks Rich for the reply. It seems that the original clutch disc are getting harder to find, although there are a few NOS ones out there for some $$$.
The sprung hub disc are less expensive than the NOS units, so that was my thinking, that maybe they would work with the DM. It makes sense what you and Phil mentioned about clearance with the sprung hub disc.
DM flywheels do not have a center recess to allow clearance for the clutch disc spring hub.
Thanks Phil, just trying to pick up some parts for the future. My stock setup is working fine. May have to take another look at the NOS disc before they are gone.
secondchance
11-30-2016, 01:17 PM
below, according to Rockauto, is a Valeo kit. Pressure plate will work with shorter bolts but actually for LT1 & LT4.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1326567&cc=1041365&jsn=415
Also, check Carolina Clutch.
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CPO-_KP80NACFZGJaQodPUUKCA
Lastly, bit steep but there is Kurt White.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-89-96-Corvette-L98-LT1-LT4-LT5-Valeo-Clutch-Disk-10174491-/222197774744?hash=item33bc04f998:g:-DcAAOSw9VZXOe93&vxp=mtr
Roadster
11-30-2016, 02:33 PM
below, according to Rockauto, is a Valeo kit. Pressure plate will work with shorter bolts but actually for LT1 & LT4.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1326567&cc=1041365&jsn=415
Also, check Carolina Clutch.
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CPO-_KP80NACFZGJaQodPUUKCA
Lastly, bit steep but there is Kurt White.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-89-96-Corvette-L98-LT1-LT4-LT5-Valeo-Clutch-Disk-10174491-/222197774744?hash=item33bc04f998:g:-DcAAOSw9VZXOe93&vxp=mtr
A lot of options here, but from what I understand Valeo parts are now made in China and so are the TOB's.
Carolina seems to have a complete setup, but are they made here? will have to give them a call.
Kurt White is steep, but that is an option....
Thanks Yun for the research on the parts that are available.
Have to weigh my options......also might have a line on some original parts that may be available. Should know in a few days.....
Roadster
11-30-2016, 05:08 PM
FYI, which you already may know....spoke to Carolina Clutch this afternoon, their FW's and clutch disc are made here in the USA. The PP is made in China and are the same ones that Valeo and others purchase. The TOB that comes in the kit, he did not know the source, but they may be China items. He also mentioned that before China produced the PP's for Valeo, that they were made in Korea for 25 years. I have no way to confirm any of this other than what the person relayed to me.
Checked out Rock Auto further and found that besides the replacement offering in Yun's post, there is another offered by EXEDY, that is supposedly only for the LT5 and is $170 more.
Tried to contact Kurt White, no answer, no answering machine....just tells you to call back later. He has listings for the same NOS clutch disc part with different prices and different shipping costs on those listings. Not feeling to comfortable about making a purchase with him.
Demps
11-30-2016, 05:35 PM
Tom,
Call Jim
http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Contact.htm
Ted
secondchance
11-30-2016, 05:52 PM
Tom,
Call Jim
http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Contact.htm
Ted
I talked to Jim about 1-1/2 years ago. Kurt bought up pretty much all of OEM throw out bearings and PPs. Kurt made kits consisting of PP, clutch throw out bearings and we're selling them at eight or nine hundred bucks. Jim might still have some pilot bearings though...
Jim just got in a batch of OE throw out bearings.
Roadster
11-30-2016, 09:22 PM
Tom,
Call Jim
http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Contact.htm
Ted
I talked to Jim about 1-1/2 years ago. Kurt bought up pretty much all of OEM throw out bearings and PPs. Kurt made kits consisting of PP, clutch throw out bearings and we're selling them at eight or nine hundred bucks. Jim might still have some pilot bearings though...
Jim just got in a batch of OE throw out bearings.
Thanks everyone, will call Jim tomorrow. Glad to hear he has some OE TOB's. Will be adding one to the parts department. Made a list up today of spare parts I have in stock. Even though I may not use them all in my lifetime, at least my grandsons will have quality parts in the future when replacement is needed. Seems like I will get parts individually, to make sure I get as close to OE as I can get.
During my research, came across an interesting thread by Racinfan83 (Eric) back in March of this year. Read post #6, which is a good debate on which type of pilot bearing to use for replacement. I already have the "fluted pilot bushing" in my bin (GM P/N 10125896). There is also the "roller pilot bearing" (GM #14061685) to use or as an option. Inexpensive enough to have both and flip a coin when the time comes:)
All kidding aside, post #6 makes good sense.
The link I forgot to post......lol
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=239369&postcount=6
secondchance
11-30-2016, 09:22 PM
Jim just got in a batch of OE throw out bearings.
Really?!
Tom,
Call Jim.
Roadster
11-30-2016, 09:26 PM
Really?!
Tom,
Call Jim.
That is first on my list tomorrow Yun.....
Racinfan83
12-01-2016, 08:03 AM
Thanks everyone, will call Jim tomorrow. Glad to hear he has some OE TOB's. Will be adding one to the parts department. Made a list up today of spare parts I have in stock. Even though I may not use them all in my lifetime, at least my grandsons will have quality parts in the future when replacement is needed. Seems like I will get parts individually, to make sure I get as close to OE as I can get.
During my research, came across an interesting thread by Racinfan83 (Eric) back in March of this year. Read post #6, which is a good debate on which type of pilot bearing to use for replacement. I already have the "fluted pilot bushing" in my bin (GM P/N 10125896). There is also the "roller pilot bearing" (GM #14061685) to use or as an option. Inexpensive enough to have both and flip a coin when the time comes:)
All kidding aside, post #6 makes good sense.
Here is the link to that one: http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=239369&postcount=6
I used the fluted bushing, sent PP to Jim for a light resurface along with my original TOB for his inspection. It was fine. Took pics and measurements of my disc and FW and sent them to him - he said they were fine to clean up and reinstall as well. So I cleaned FW with Scotchbrite pad and just cleaned disc and put it back. Jim is a stand up guy and very knowledgeable - have a bit of time when you call him because he is a talker! I can't recommend him highly enough for how nice he was...=D>
Paul Workman
12-01-2016, 08:40 AM
On another note...
My personal plan is to chunk the OE clutch instead of attempting to service it - an excuse to make the leap to RAM and their dual disc/hydraulic (push) TO bearing.
Killing a fly w/ a sledge hammer? Well, maybe so. But, installing a system in current production vs. OE tailings appeals to me - not to mention the boost in performance and longevity. Make sense (to anyone besides me)?
Roadster
12-01-2016, 10:48 AM
Here is the link to that one: http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=239369&postcount=6
I knew I forgot to post the link......lol:)
will add it to the post.....
On another note...
My personal plan is to chunk the OE clutch instead of attempting to service it - an excuse to make the leap to RAM and their dual disc/hydraulic (push) TO bearing.
Killing a fly w/ a sledge hammer? Well, maybe so. But, installing a system in current production vs. OE tailings appeals to me - not to mention the boost in performance and longevity. Make sense (to anyone besides me)?
Yes, it does make sense.....but IMO there seems to be "issues" that need to be worked out (the trial & error period "issues") with some of the newer technology that is offered today. It appears that you need to get the correct combo and have a "break-in" period to achieve the desired results.
Since I don't track the Z, (haven't been down the 1/4 mile yet) the stock system should be fine for me. My feeling as mentioned before is to have a back-up parts supply for later down the road. And when the newer technology is sorted out, then that will be a very viable option. It's people like you Paul, who are willing to push ahead and try something different. It will be interesting to see all of the results from more like you as time moves on. But for now, the stock setup works for me!!!
secondchance
12-01-2016, 06:21 PM
My intention was to go to heavier steel flywheel (like 22 or 26 ibs) with Ram dual disc set up until I read some horror stories. Luckily I found an OEM dual mass at reasonable price - thanks Marty and Tom!
I have one brand new LT5 PP, clutch and throw out bearing also. Should be good for another 7-8 years.
As for the pilot bushing/bearing, I prefer fluted namely based on fear of mess when needle bearing fails.
Roadster
12-01-2016, 07:40 PM
My intention was to go to heavier steel flywheel (like 22 or 26 ibs) with Ram dual disc set up until I read some horror stories. Luckily I found an OEM dual mass at reasonable price - thanks Marty and Tom!
I have one brand new LT5 PP, clutch and throw out bearing also. Should be good for another 7-8 years.
As for the pilot bushing/bearing, I prefer fluted namely based on fear of mess when needle bearing fails.
Glad to help you out Yun.....I am guarding it like its my own....:D
Spoke to Jim @Power Torque systems (thanks again Ted) and had an extensive conversation with him. It's always a pleasure to talk with Jim, as he has a wealth of info to offer, which is always a learning experience.
On what Frank mentioned yesterday on the TOB's.
Jim told me that they are NOS bearings from years ago. However, they are only for the 94-95 ZR-1. And they are only for the Blue Label ZF trans, which came into service with the 94 model. Now, there is an exception to this and that is when the 94 MY assembly started, there were not any Blue Label transmissions available, as there were still some Black Label transmissions still available from the end of the 93 MY build. So there are some early 94's that probably have the Black Label trans that was installed at the factory. If you have an early 94 with a Black Label, then these TOB's are not for you.
Also to be aware of the clutch disc being offered today for our stock setups. There are issues with the "thickness" of the disc itself which is not sufficient for use. And that there is some "excessive" play with the hub, which is also not good for our application. And be aware of units on the bay that appear to be NOS, ask questions on these units if you decide to purchase as Valeo stopped making discs years ago.
All I can add, is to do your homework, research, ask questions before you decide to make your purchase.
That being said, I made a big purchase today. which cost me some $$$....lol
Purchased a LT5 DM FW, PP, clutch fork, TOB and maybe the disc from a 40,000 mile Z. Even got Jim's approval and would be no problem to have everything cut and put back into spec. I think I got a good deal, and am happy to stay with OEM for future years. And not that I need it now, but it is known that these will disappear more so as time goes on.....JMO
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.