View Full Version : Coolant Pump Pulley Off...
Belt jumped while out on a spirited drive last weekend, didn't think much of it as I had just rebuilt the tensioner, and I was lucky enough to only be about a mile away from home, so I limped home and ordered a new belt. Go to put it on this weekend and see that the pulley is pulled forward, so the alignment is whacky. Belt was behind the pulley, must have helped to "floss" it off.
Tried to tap it back on, ended up tapping it the rest of the way off. Oops...
So I've got the car apart to the point where I've been trying to get the pulley bearing (?) back on, now that I was able to separate it from the pulley itself by removing the four 8mm bolts. With it being so tight in the engine compartment, I'm reduced to pry bars to try and apply force the way I'd like to. Not having much luck.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to get this back together? Or, at this point, is it a water pump replace? I'm working in in a carport, so this should be fun.
The Water Pump mounting flange, shaft & bearing are a single unit that has the pump impeller mounted on the inside of the pump. If you have in your hand, the flange attached to the pulley by 4 bolts, you have a broken water pump shaft. You need another water pump or send your pump to Marc Haibeck for rebuild.
Thanks Jerry, I most definitely have that flange in my hand.
Looking at my options for replacement, is there any reason I should avoid, something like the Gates pump from Rockauto (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948869&cc=1041297&jsn=449&jsn=449) since it's about half the cost of the rebuild or the new unit you carry?
I'm happy to pay more (especially "in network" :)) if it's the recommended option, but I'm interested in knowing all the details before jumping in.
Dynomite
09-05-2016, 08:11 PM
The Water Pump mounting flange, shaft & bearing are a single unit that has the pump impeller mounted on the inside of the pump. If you have in your hand, the flange attached to the pulley by 4 bolts, you have a broken water pump shaft. You need another water pump or send your pump to Marc Haibeck for rebuild.
I doubt the shaft is broken....What most likely happened is the water pump impeller is spinning on the shaft. This happened to me on a new water pump......the impeller spun on the shaft. A bit difficult to diagnose unless it becomes more obvious by the water pump pulley falling off :D
On the other hand....it kind of sounds like the flange spun off the shaft.....but same predicament.......you need rebuilt or new water pump.
I would bite the bullet and have Jerry send you out a new water pump as you will have that in your hands in two days. But as you like there are others that may have experience with the Gates Pump you found at Rock Auto. Or....if you have some time......send your core with spun impeller or spun flange off to Marc Haibeck for Rebuild. Include the shaft and flange or flange. I think Jerry's Water Pump comes with new gasket (do not forget the gasket).
Or....if you want to try cheap ZR1 Water Pump on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-ZR-1-water-pump-5-7-L-1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-NEW-/252376523101?hash=item3ac2d0215d:g:K8EAAOSw6EhUQGm f&vxp=mtr)
Good talk guys. Poked around a bit and decided I want to do this job once.
Just placed my order with Jerry, and plan to hang on to my old unit for Marc's rebuild just in case *knock on wood*
:cheers:
I have my new Coolant Pump installed on the car. I've been busy with other things so getting it all back together is taking some time.
All this time has given me plenty of time to think (and worry). Since I drove it home with no coolant flow for about a mile or two, what are the chances I crushed the Head Gaskets?
Hoping I was lucky here, but is there anything I should check before I get it back together completely?
You could check head gasket integrity for coolant leaks is to pressure test the cooling system. Simple matter to remove pressure cap & replace with tester. Will need to button up the cooling system first.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/mcs/9300.jpg
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MCS0/9300/03002.oap?year=1991&make=Chevrolet&model=Corvette&vi=1041297&ck=Search_03002_1041297_-1&pt=03002&ppt=C0331
Thanks! Should I fill with coolant as well, or just get everything attached?
We Gone
09-13-2016, 01:12 PM
I've had two new NOS water pumps that the pulley came off the shaft within 100 miles. Had Marc rebuild one of the no more issues.
Thanks! Should I fill with coolant as well, or just get everything attached?
BTW, after you drove it home hot, have you turned the engine over or tried to start it after it cooled down?
Reason for asking is.... Coolant system would have been pressurized to 16psig at shutdown. If a head gasket was compromised, it's possible that coolant could have leaked into a cylinder. If so, an attempt to crank the engine could result in hydro-lock & damage the engine.
Just to be on the safe side, I suggest you remove all of the spark plugs & spin the engine over several times. If you see coolant blown out of a cylinder, there's no need to pressure test the cooling system.
I have not attempted to start the engine.
When I shut it down I popped the hood to confirm the status of the belt, and noted that the reservoir under the headlight was full, but I didn't have coolant spewing. Knew I wasn't going anywhere without a new belt so I let it sit, since then I've been working on the pump.
I'll plan to pull the plugs, we'll start there.
By "spin the engine" do you mean by the starter or by a wrench on the crank?
......................................
By "spin the engine" do you mean by the starter or by a wrench on the crank?
Starter
Coolant system is back together, just need to fill then pull plugs, spin the engine, and if all goes well pressure test just to be sure.
While I was taking a break from dealing with those wonderful spring clamps, I went around and pulled all the plug boots. Cylinder 5 had some gunk on the end, so I pulled that plug. Looks like oil from the threads up. Doesn't look like there's any on the electrode, and looking down the plug hole it seems dry past where this guy was screwed in.
What do we think, bad news or is this normal?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T_tVnw_6piUqQ7ShlN-FDKUGLSO7E09AjaxMqo0TPgPjPtOlp4kv33fi4kzw8-7ckIqRAh9sr6aGNCz_hBNpjYXWnB0N6l9yOdXKXQqavihMHBIY M4QRepx7YoqMHHEHKbwghUFcpJuRlgNOgMdNcRdH0yQ-Hrpvyf3ziwSkxE9Uk_MdQm9mJhxz86rcN6lva3qJ20Z5JWc40b dSvsXcwIHxx5sqgECJgiTsIoRCaNycUUl7eLjSBk8iD3VErlXH GCqViLjB5xQAaT1uYnCM1WH0OBU_FfjuyPnukgiUzpIkuzGS7W U8Emxp-2Hgc5RID9fGkotQAo1Tg6PyQ9_JS4oZA6tqKlZS1Och8wEP13A _i4tzc8isctPEmxXJElJEPwC-STnZuejNIZuC_FaYx_0MNoKBe-ZAVg0m9Sl1j0Ull5_gBagyd7Bjo1obz8lHilrc4xJdmdTzdGaM e2C01d3jEVPCG0GlUq7szoWrsE-27JZUoC60rdZvJDvK47haxOBBDJYje2kgKbNIGJl6HfgahYxAW ZAVFlYEqA1P21AlUEx8q9rd4vTSH69v8M56kUGWEfaCvIDsf_8 lYMbRvkMKBYZJON7YvMNmeCXBSwS293Uu=w579-h771-no
Dynomite
09-15-2016, 10:50 PM
Coolant system is back together, just need to fill then pull plugs, spin the engine, and if all goes well pressure test just to be sure.
While I was taking a break from dealing with those wonderful spring clamps, I went around and pulled all the plug boots. Cylinder 5 had some gunk on the end, so I pulled that plug. Looks like oil from the threads up. Doesn't look like there's any on the electrode, and looking down the plug hole it seems dry past where this guy was screwed in.
What do we think, bad news or is this normal?
That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.
seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95 (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95-11c1/)
To replace those "O" rings requires that you remove the Cam Covers. You will need some Permabond A136 (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/permabond-a136-cam-cover-sealant-13b4/)
You can remove the Cam Covers Engine in car but if the Cam Covers have never been removed before there are some tricks.
GOLDCYLON
09-15-2016, 11:05 PM
That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.
seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95 (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95-11c1/)
Concur :handshak:
That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.
seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95 (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95-11c1/)
To replace those "O" rings requires that you remove the Cam Covers. You will need some Permabond A136 (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/permabond-a136-cam-cover-sealant-13b4/)
You can remove the Cam Covers Engine in car but if the Cam Covers have never been removed before there are some tricks.
Cool, thanks. Glanced at the FSM quick, it indicates I'd have to discharge the A/C system. Looking at your pic looks like you just unbolted the compressor and moved it out of the way...pull the plenum, etc.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/01cdf99e-9f02-409f-b7ec-4a5b59883582.jpg
In any case, what's my priority level for this replacement? Am I immobile until I fix it?
Dynomite
09-15-2016, 11:33 PM
Cool, thanks. Glanced at the FSM quick, it indicates I'd have to discharge the A/C system. Looking at your pic looks like you just unbolted the compressor and moved it out of the way...pull the plenum, etc.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/01cdf99e-9f02-409f-b7ec-4a5b59883582.jpg
In any case, what's my priority level for this replacement? Am I immobile until I fix it?
NO...you are not immobile.......just clean out all the oil from any Spark Plug area and run....check (remove spark plug boot) after an hour or so and if no oil...check after 10 hours... and so on....this maybe was an accumulation of oil over several thousand miles.
Yes.....just remove Plenum and set AC aside.......Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-4.html#post1581665190)
You do not need to remove the spark plugs to remove the oil......
A. Blow all debris off Cam Covers using 90-100 psi Air Pressure.
B. Pull ALL Rubber Spark Plug Boots.
C. I use a rolled up sheet or tube of paper towel to swab up the oil if any inside each Spark Plug Port.
D. You do not want to remove the spark plug first as there may be some debris you do not want to fall into the cylinder.
E. After ALL Oil is eliminated in Spark Plug Ports.......Use the 90 psi Air to blow into each Spark Plug Port.
F. Use a tad of White Grease around each raised rim (just below the Top Rim) of each boot to make installation easy.
Excellent. Thanks Dyno! I wonder how much shelf space you'd need if you published a manual with all your tips/tricks...awesome.:cheers:
Last night I filled up with coolant a la Dynomite:
Flipped the two "L" hoses going to the big coolant pipes vertical
Slowly poured coolant into the Passenger Side "L", keeping an eye on the Driver Side, until the level held.
Connected the Passenger Side "L" to the Coolant Pipe
Poured coolant into the Driver Side "L" until that level held, then blew into the "L" by mouth. I felt the system burbling a bit here.
Repeated #4 until I felt coolant coming out of the Driver Side Coolant Pipe.
Connected the Driver Side "L"
Poured coolant into the black High Fill Tank until that level held
Filled the reservoir under the headlamp to "hot"-ish
This morning I pulled the plugs (how about that #8, huh? good thing others have done this before so I didn't have to scratch my head on it too much) and spun the engine a few times, no fluids blown out, CHECK.
Put the plugs back in, topped off the coolant in the high fill tank, put my pressure tester on the system. Looks like it held pressure, CHECK.
Crossed my fingers and started the car. Everything seems OK. Let it run for a minute or two, then topped off the High Fill Tank again. Let it run for 10 minutes or so, Both pipes got hot, coolant is circulating, no plumes out the exhaust, I'm calling this a WIN.
Thanks ZR-1 Net. :cheers:
I call it a WIN also. Good procedure developed with the usual terrific support from ZR1Net Forum brothers looking out for each other.
I could tell several stories of minor issues that turned into major issues by not knowing or following sound procedures.
You did good KPW!
Very good advice from Dynomite about monitoring the plug-well o-ring seal before arbitrarily removing the Cam Cover . I just don't visualize a leak sufficient to justify pulling the Cam Cover.
In the same vein of thought, go through the PCV System & make sure it's all in top condition. Keeping crankcase pressure to a minimum will have a minimizing effect on the o-ring leak.
Dynomite
09-17-2016, 01:25 PM
Last night I filled up with coolant a la Dynomite:
Flipped the two "L" hoses going to the big coolant pipes vertical
Slowly poured coolant into the Passenger Side "L", keeping an eye on the Driver Side, until the level held.
Connected the Passenger Side "L" to the Coolant Pipe
Poured coolant into the Driver Side "L" until that level held, then blew into the "L" by mouth. I felt the system burbling a bit here.
Repeated #4 until I felt coolant coming out of the Driver Side Coolant Pipe.
Connected the Driver Side "L"
Poured coolant into the black High Fill Tank until that level held
Filled the reservoir under the headlamp to "hot"-ish
This morning I pulled the plugs (how about that #8, huh? good thing others have done this before so I didn't have to scratch my head on it too much) and spun the engine a few times, no fluids blown out, CHECK.
Put the plugs back in, topped off the coolant in the high fill tank, put my pressure tester on the system. Looks like it held pressure, CHECK.
Crossed my fingers and started the car. Everything seems OK. Let it run for a minute or two, then topped off the High Fill Tank again. Let it run for 10 minutes or so, Both pipes got hot, coolant is circulating, no plumes out the exhaust, I'm calling this a WIN.
Thanks ZR-1 Net. :cheers:
Great News.....those LT5s do run HOT sometimes with apparently no issues :p
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