First drive, first problem

[Kevin]

Took the car out for a short drive tonight and everything was fine. While pulling the car into the garage tonight I noticed the idle is terrible. Not at all smooth, knocking...looks like I have to rip it apart again and see what's wrong...not that I really know what I'm doing. It seems like a bad injector...or a bunch. I replaced all 16 a few years ago with stainless and now it looks like I have to do it all over again. I'm so tired of fighting with this car.

[Dynomite]

Took the car out for a short drive tonight and everything was fine. While pulling the car into the garage tonight I noticed the idle is terrible. Not at all smooth, knocking...looks like I have to rip it apart again and see what's wrong...not that I really know what I'm doing. It seems like a bad injector...or a bunch. I replaced all 16 a few years ago with stainless and now it looks like I have to do it all over again. I'm so tired of fighting with this car.

I wish I was closer to you.....I would put a smile on your face........we would do a TOP END on your ZR-1 and fix everything once and for all. I would also do a compression check just for kicks and Ohm ALL INjectors prolly install ALL NEW Injector "O" rings. And would BLOCK TB Coolant at the Injector Housing. We would also CLEAR ALL Codes once and for all even the INFL REST if that comes on the Panel (by reseating both Sensors). We would clean up the valley and valley drain (pressure wash), redo all bolts (check all bolts on Injector Housing and Crank Case Cover) where there were oil leaks, recondition the starter Solenoid and check starter bearings and brushes, prolly a new set of plugs, and maybe a new set of Coils. Lets see......Oh ya....check ALL vacuum lines for leaks (we will have zero vacuum leaks when done including inspecting the check valve controlling Plenum Vacuum and Vacuum Pump Vacuum). We would also replace the four PCV hoses with Jerry's new hoses requiring no clamps or nylon ties (Would also get Jerrys New MAP Sensor and Fuel Regulator Hose). We would also move that rear Plug Wire Clamp (both sides of engine) up from the Injector Housing to the Plenum getting the Plug Wires up off the Cam Covers. LOTS I DO JUST TO BE DIFFERENT :sign10:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/e4a79ea4-bd62-46a9-82a9-5c2f64542e7f.jpg

I am putting a Black Label ZFdoc Transmission in my 95' today just for the fun of it. Have a Blue Label in my 91' so have a nice mix of cars and transmissions :D

1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS..............My Standard TOP END Rebuild Tricks :thumbsup:
A 1995 Top End was rebuilt and best tricks linked here
Post 230 - 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759172)
Post 231 - Clean Up of Valley, Installation of Battery Disconnect Switch and Coils (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759173)
Post 232 - Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759174)
Post 233 - Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759175)
Post 234 - Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System hoses (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759176)
Post 235 - Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759177)
Post 236 - Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759178)
Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759179)
Post 238 - Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759180)
Post 239 - Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump, Belt Tensioner Pulleys (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759181)
Post 240 - Reconditioned 1995 Engine with New Fluids all around including Differential Drain Installed (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759183)

And YES.....Red ZR-1s are FASTEST for sure :p

Oh..............Have to say it.......prolly easier to start over and do it ALL the right way rather than fight the little things forever.

[secondchance]

I wish I was closer to you.....I would put a smile on your face........we would do a TOP END on your ZR-1 and fix everything once and for all. I would also do a compression check just for kicks and Ohm ALL INjectors prolly install ALL NEW Injector "O" rings. And would BLOCK TB Coolant at the Injector Housing. We would also CLEAR ALL Codes once and for all even the INFL REST if that comes on the Panel (by reseating both Sensors). We would clean up the valley and valley drain (pressure wash), redo all bolts (check all bolts on Injector Housing and Crank Case Cover) where there were oil leaks, recondition the starter Solenoid and check starter bearings and brushes, prolly a new set of plugs, and maybe a new set of Coils. Lets see......Oh ya....check ALL vacuum lines for leaks (we will have zero vacuum leaks when done including inspecting the check valve controlling Plenum Vacuum and Vacuum Pump Vacuum). We would also replace the four PCV hoses with Jerry's new hoses requiring no clamps or nylon ties (Would also get Jerrys New MAP Sensor and Fuel Regulator Hose). We would also move that rear Plug Wire Clamp (both sides of engine) up from the Injector Housing to the Plenum getting the Plug Wires up off the Cam Covers. LOTS I DO JUST TO BE DIFFERENT :sign10:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/e4a79ea4-bd62-46a9-82a9-5c2f64542e7f.jpg

I am putting a Black Label ZFdoc Transmission in my 95' today just for the fun of it. Have a Blue Label in my 91' so have a nice mix of cars and transmissions :D

1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS..............My Standard TOP END Rebuild Tricks :thumbsup:
A 1995 Top End was rebuilt and best tricks linked here
Post 230 - 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759172)
Post 231 - Clean Up of Valley, Installation of Battery Disconnect Switch and Coils (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759173)
Post 232 - Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759174)
Post 233 - Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759175)
Post 234 - Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System hoses (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759176)
Post 235 - Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759177)
Post 236 - Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759178)
Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759179)
Post 238 - Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759180)
Post 239 - Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump, Belt Tensioner Pulleys (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759181)
Post 240 - Reconditioned 1995 Engine with New Fluids all around including Differential Drain Installed (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759183)

And YES.....Red ZR-1s are FASTEST for sure :p

Oh..............Have to say it.......prolly easier to start over and do it ALL the right way rather than fight the little things forever.

For all this work I would seriously consider becoming your neighbor!

[Kevin]

I wish I lived closer to either wazoo or the fbi myself. I don't have a strong owner base around and I don't have the skills or knowledge to really work on anything beyond basic maintenance myself. Last time I really dug into the car I had help from Dave Johnson.

[Kevin]

Oh..............Have to say it.......prolly easier to start over and do it ALL the right way rather than fight the little things forever.

That would require a trip to Mark Haibeck that my bank account can't cover...

[Paul Workman]

I wish I was closer to you.....I would put a smile on your face........we would do a TOP END on your ZR-1 and fix everything once and for all. I would also do a compression check just for kicks and Ohm ALL INjectors prolly install ALL NEW Injector "O" rings. And would BLOCK TB Coolant at the Injector Housing. We would also CLEAR ALL Codes once and for all even the INFL REST if that comes on the Panel (by reseating both Sensors). We would clean up the valley and valley drain (pressure wash), redo all bolts (check all bolts on Injector Housing and Crank Case Cover) where there were oil leaks, recondition the starter Solenoid and check starter bearings and brushes, prolly a new set of plugs, and maybe a new set of Coils. Lets see......Oh ya....check ALL vacuum lines for leaks (we will have zero vacuum leaks when done including inspecting the check valve controlling Plenum Vacuum and Vacuum Pump Vacuum). We would also replace the four PCV hoses with Jerry's new hoses requiring no clamps or nylon ties (Would also get Jerrys New MAP Sensor and Fuel Regulator Hose). We would also move that rear Plug Wire Clamp (both sides of engine) up from the Injector Housing to the Plenum getting the Plug Wires up off the Cam Covers. LOTS I DO JUST TO BE DIFFERENT :sign10:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/e4a79ea4-bd62-46a9-82a9-5c2f64542e7f.jpg

I am putting a Black Label ZFdoc Transmission in my 95' today just for the fun of it. Have a Blue Label in my 91' so have a nice mix of cars and transmissions :D

1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS..............My Standard TOP END Rebuild Tricks :thumbsup:
A 1995 Top End was rebuilt and best tricks linked here
Post 230 - 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759172)
Post 231 - Clean Up of Valley, Installation of Battery Disconnect Switch and Coils (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759173)
Post 232 - Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759174)
Post 233 - Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759175)
Post 234 - Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System hoses (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759176)
Post 235 - Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759177)
Post 236 - Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759178)
Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759179)
Post 238 - Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759180)
Post 239 - Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump, Belt Tensioner Pulleys (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759181)
Post 240 - Reconditioned 1995 Engine with New Fluids all around including Differential Drain Installed (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759183)

And YES.....Red ZR-1s are FASTEST for sure :p

Oh..............Have to say it.......prolly easier to start over and do it ALL the right way rather than fight the little things forever.

I agree w/ pretty much everything Cliff said (above).

First thing I did was most of what Cliff listed - just to establish a "fresh" motor (1990). I decided that when I initially drove the car and started running into some of the issues you've had over the years.

Rather than being "nickel-dimed" to death, doing that "restart" has made all the difference. The car, except for some initial modification hickups, has run now for 20k miles since 07 and not needed anything since to keep it running well. outside of normal maintenance. (Oh, yeah... I was blessed with NOS injectors which had to be changed, but that was the "last straw", far as freshening the motor went - knock on wood...)

I doubt this latest thing is anything very big. Prolly something small (like a MAP hose coming off; something simple like that).

If you don't address it successfully by the time of the Carlisle gathering, maybe someone traveling to/from could take pity on you and "swing by"? Maybe have a "fix-it" party for a gang of ZR-1ers to drop by and have at it. Now there's a thought!?:-D

[rush91]

That would require a trip to Mark Haibeck that my bank account can't cover...

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. I'm not a mechanic and my skills don't go beyond basic stuff. I have developed a backfire under hard acceleration from 2nd to 3rd.....It's 100% stock car. It had been worked on by the guru Mark Haibeck, before it sat for over a year on the showroom floor.
I really need to take mine on the 5 hour journey, and let Mark do his stuff. But the old bank account wont let that happen now. I think there is a picnic this coming weekend with F.B.I members, but I feel guilty showing up and saying " hey, look at my car that's not running good."

[Kevin]

I agree w/ pretty much everything Cliff said (above).

First thing I did was most of what Cliff listed - just to establish a "fresh" motor (1990). I decided that when I initially drove the car and started running into some of the issues you've had over the years.

Rather than being "nickel-dimed" to death, doing that "restart" has made all the difference. The car, except for some initial modification hickups, has run now for 20k miles since 07 and not needed anything since to keep it running well. outside of normal maintenance. (Oh, yeah... I was blessed with NOS injectors which had to be changed, but that was the "last straw", far as freshening the motor went - knock on wood...)

I doubt this latest thing is anything very big. Prolly something small (like a MAP hose coming off; something simple like that).

If you don't address it successfully by the time of the Carlisle gathering, maybe someone traveling to/from could take pity on you and "swing by"? Maybe have a "fix-it" party for a gang of ZR-1ers to drop by and have at it. Now there's a thought!?:-D

Word around the office is that I have a pretty big green space to hold a party and make a mean pulled pork and creamed corn.... Seriously though I'm so far out of my depth here it's not funny. I know what I don't know about these cars and it's legion. I get that it's a nearly 30 year old car but every year I'm spending $1,000 to get it running right again.

Last year was plugs, wires, coils, pumps, fuel filter, air filter, vac lines and other stuff I'm forgetting. Before that was the AC, before that was injectors, then there was a vac leak...If I had the money I'd send it to Haibeck and tell him to go over it nose to tail and fix everything, but alas I have rent to pay and need to eat, so that isn't happening.

Having some guys to run up to carlise with would be great too. Drive gets boring by yourself

[Kevin]

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. I'm not a mechanic and my skills don't go beyond basic stuff. I have developed a backfire under hard acceleration from 2nd to 3rd.....It's 100% stock car. It had been worked on by the guru Mark Haibeck, before it sat for over a year on the showroom floor.
I really need to take mine on the 5 hour journey, and let Mark do his stuff. But the old bank account wont let that happen now. I think there is a picnic this coming weekend with F.B.I members, but I feel guilty showing up and saying " hey, look at my car that's not running good."

Don't feel guilty, we're the only ones keeping these cars going. The fbi or wazoo guys would be happy to help you. **** if I knew more about these cars I'd offer to do the same for anyone. It's what we are, it's what we do. We band of brothers.

[rush91]

Don't feel guilty, we're the only ones keeping these cars going. The fbi or wazoo guys would be happy to help you. **** if I knew more about these cars I'd offer to do the same for anyone. It's what we are, it's what we do. We band of brothers.

I know I shouldn't, but I do. You make a great point that we are the only ones who keep these going. The FBI guys have reached out to me, but being 5 hours away, makes it difficult......One of the main reasons I purchased the car was because of this site, and the fellow members who will do anything to help fellow members out. I just need to take them up on the offer lol.

[tpepmeie]

And would BLOCK TB Coolant at the Injector Housing.

I wouldn't advise doing this, though lots of people continue to encourage it. That part of the circuit is designed to assist the bleeding of air from the system. Blocking it could potentially restrict the ability to purge the system of air as designed. The only acceptable way to keep coolant out of the plenum, IMO, is to tap into the top of the coolant outlet pipes (there is a cast boss which almost looks like it was designed for this) and pick up the bleed circuit from that point rather than the plenum fitting. Only then could you safely plug the coolant passage into the plenum.

Lots of opinions on this, but I know I am not the only one who feels blocking that passage is a bad idea. Your mileage may vary.

[Dynomite]

I wouldn't advise doing this,
Lots of opinions on this, but I know I am not the only one who feels blocking that passage is a bad idea. Your mileage may vary.

Always something :D
The air is flushed out of Injector housing manifolds and into top of radiator where the air meets the same path back to coolant reservoir as the TB coolant. The coolant flow through Injector housings flushes all air into the radiator. The small TB coolant passages are often blocked in any event by corrosion and scale.

It is assumed the air gets pushed out of the injector housing coolant manifolds on each side (equally) since they are higher than the radiator coolant line going back to the coolant expansion tank on passenger side (the highest point in the coolant system).

It appears that the water pump pressure and resulting coolant fow into each cylinder block (right and left) would be equal since the coolant flow is separated equally on the face of the front cover where the water pump is mounted. There are two holes of equal size that go into the front of each cylinder block (right and left) from the front cover. In other words, the coolant is not pushed from the water pump into a single flow after which the flow is divided but rather the coolant flow is divided at the impeller of the water pump.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Modified/Waterpumpremoved.jpg

If the water pump can pump 100 GPM (385 cubic inches/sec) through two ports (lets assume 1-1/4 inch diameter or 1.23 square inches cross section each port), the coolant velocity would be 156 in/sec or 13 ft/sec in each port. That is intuitively enough flow to prevent a bubble of air going the other way in that flow assuring all air is pushed out of the system.

So......you and others who feel I do not know what I am talking about have fun removing plenums ;)

I am busy at moment putting my ZFdoc Black Label Trans in
my 95' :p

[Paul Workman]

Certainly making no claims to expertise, but with an ear to those who have blocked off (plugged) the coolant through the throttle bodies, I have not had issues attempting to fill the block, after having done so successfully several times now.

After discussing the issues and experiences with Marc and Cliff, my method amounts to lifting & tipping the front of the car up & leaning toward the left side just enough so the air collects on the right side. Then I remove the cover of the right side coolant tube and fill the block through that port. (It occurred to me there must be a reason for those covers. And, if not for removing air and/or topping off the coolant, why have them...was my thinking...)

As an aid to knowing it there is a significant amount of air left in the block after attempting to refill it, I collect the coolant I drained (w/o spilling any) and if it all goes back in, then I feel assured I don't have an air lock the block.

So far, so good. Your mileage may vary.;)

[Kevin]

Always something :D
The air is flushed out of Injector housing manifolds and into top of radiator where the air meets the same path back to coolant reservoir as the TB coolant. The coolant flow through Injector housings flushes all air into the radiator. The small TB coolant passages are often blocked in any event by corrosion and scale.

So......you and others who feel I do not know what I am talking about have fun removing plenums ;)

I am busy at moment putting my ZFdoc Black Label Trans in
my 95' :p

starts looking up plane tickets from where you are to me...

[tpepmeie]

Then I remove the cover of the right side coolant tube and fill the block through that port. (It occurred to me there must be a reason for those covers. And, if not for removing air and/or topping off the coolant, why have them...was my thinking...)


Hi Paul. I'm trying to visualize what you describe here as covers. I'm sure I'm just being slow, but can you help me understand what you're talking about?

[Dynomite]

starts looking up plane tickets from where you are to me...

My latest technique for refilling the LT5 with coolant (I have several workable techniques) is to let the ZR-1 sit on a level surface. I fill the coolant overflow under passenger side headlight 3/4 full.

1. I fill the black coolant reservoir next to passenger window with coolant until no bubbles appear.
2. I take vice grips and close off the coolant line to the overflow container under passenger headlight.
3. I blow into the black coolant reservoir pressurizing the coolant system. The coolant level goes down in the black coolant reservoir and air bubbles back from the radiator.
4. I do this several times until I get no more bubbles from the radiator.
5. I then start the engine and let it idle with hand on Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds. If they do not get warm within a minute (they always get warm so far), I would repeat the process one more time.

Then I take ZR-1 for a ride and rev it up to flush any remaining air from the coolant system. I refill the coolant overflow under passenger side headlight 2/3 full and recheck after each run and cool down of the LT5. All the air will be flushed out of the system after three runs and cool downs.

[LGAFF]

all you have to do is slowly fill it then put the coolant plugs in the ih when it breaches, so much drama

[Dynomite]

all you have to do is slowly fill it then put the coolant plugs in the ih when it breaches, so much drama

What is "it"?
Coolant plugs in ih?

I'm so tired of fighting with this car.

This is dramatic.............cannot someone drive over to Kevin's and help him?

[Kevin]

This is dramatic.............cannot someone drive over to Kevin's and help him?

had a discussion with my wife about the car today she's named it "that little bitch". She made the point that it hasn't run right in the 10 years we've been together for more then a few months.

[Dynomite]

had a discussion with my wife about the car today she's named it "that little bitch". She made the point that it hasn't run right in the 10 years we've been together for more then a few months.

But Kevin..........
It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson

You need more people that can take a look at your car.........:handshak:

[Kevin]

Took it for a 30 minute drive today, lots of lights and idling, no issues at all. maybe it was just first start up problems. I'll keep you guys updated.