Aluminum lugnuts

[Billy Mild]

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/gorilla-aluminum-racing-lug-nuts?mode=guest_open&utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Drop:+FOMO

Not sure if anyone saw this on the other forum. They appear to be high quality lugnuts. When I put my new A Molds on I will want to get rid of the OEM lugnuts as they are ugly. Has anyone run these aluminum lugnuts? What thread do our cars have?

Are there other better options out there?

[XfireZ51]

I bought these last week. Pretty good price for lugs and locks. Replaced those POS plastic covers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191771238506?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Jagdpanzer]

Billy,
Our cars have 12x1.5mm wheel studs

Dom,
Do these aluminum lug nuts have heli-coil style thread inserts?

[XfireZ51]

Billy,
Our cars have 12x1.5mm wheel studs

Dom,
Do these aluminum lug nuts have heli-coil style thread inserts?


Phil,

Don't think these are aluminum. I just posted the link so take a look. These are OEM.

[32valvesftw]

The aluminum ones concern me due to the fact that the it is much easier to put aluminum into permanent deformation due to over torque that it would be with steel, granted the stud carries most of that load but the threads on the nut also play a role. The modulus of elasticity for aluminum is 1/3 that for steel, so the lug threads will deform much easier than the steel stud. Then they would be more likely to loosen in service. Also the potential for galling and seizing due to galvanic action between the aluminum and steel may cause problems. The weight savings are insignificant in my opinion.

[RussMcB]

I've been using Muteki SR48 lug nuts for about a year, which included 6 track days. They seem to be pretty high quality. One reason I went with them is they are open-ended and work with my longer rear wheel studs. Also, they use a smaller socket, gaining a little extra room.

[Billy Mild]

The aluminum ones concern me due to the fact that the it is much easier to put aluminum into permanent deformation due to over torque that it would be with steel, granted the stud carries most of that load but the threads on the nut also play a role. The modulus of elasticity for aluminum is 1/3 that for steel, so the lug threads will deform much easier than the steel stud. Then they would be more likely to loosen in service. Also the potential for galling and seizing due to galvanic action between the aluminum and steel may cause problems. The weight savings are insignificant in my opinion.

I just like the fact they look nice with the anodized color and are supposed to be high quality.

[WVZR-1]

There are a multitude of options for the nut covers. Black, gray and chrome plastic all very readily available and if you wanted, there's also a Stainless cover that fits. A friend here has Stainless and when he drives to an outing swaps back to OE.

I've black A-molds so I use an earlier nut that has a crimped on cap to a short nut. Was OE on some F-body and others. Quality now isn't what it once was for these.

[Hog]

I though this was a joke thread, I mean, "aluminum lugnuts", I never would have guessed.

[BigJohn]

I don't think I would try them!
Another dissimilar metal to react with my magnesium wheels.

[RussMcB]

I just like the fact they look nice with the anodized color and are supposed to be high quality.The SR48 lug nuts come in a lot of (goofy) color options (which almost turned me off to them. Kinda infers cheapness). I got the plainest, silver/chrome nuts and they have held up well.

Another advantage I forgot to mention earlier is the knurled top. They're pretty easy to get started on the studs.

http://www.revworksinc.com/assets/images/products/universal/muteki/muteki_sr48_open_lugnuts.jpg

[Mystic ZR-1]

I don't think I would try them!
Another dissimilar metal to react with my magnesium wheels.

John
Try some lugnuts made of unobtainium.
Guaranteed not to react with any metal even the stuff they found at Roswell!
😄 😄 😄
D

[BigJohn]

John
Try some lugnuts made of unobtainium.
Guaranteed not to react with any metal even the stuff they found at Roswell!
😄 😄 😄
D



You old Submariners should be able to get me some !
Working with all that reactive metal; you should be able to get some nonreactive metals .

:saluting:

[secondchance]

Titanium may be a better option - light, strong and inert.

[XfireZ51]

The SR48 lug nuts come in a lot of (goofy) color options (which almost turned me off to them. Kinda infers cheapness). I got the plainest, silver/chrome nuts and they have held up well.

Another advantage I forgot to mention earlier is the knurled top. They're pretty easy to get started on the studs.

http://www.revworksinc.com/assets/images/products/universal/muteki/muteki_sr48_open_lugnuts.jpg

Russ,

I looked at these but do they have an end cap to close off the opening in the end?

[RussMcB]

Russ,

I looked at these but do they have an end cap to close off the opening in the end?They do not. They are open ended.

For me, that was a good thing because I had installed long wheel studs on the rear of my car.

I can post a pic of how they look on stock and long studs if you're interested.

[XfireZ51]

They do not. They are open ended.

For me, that was a good thing because I had installed long wheel studs on the rear of my car.

I can post a pic of how they look on stock and long studs if you're interested.

With my Z06 wheels on the rear, I also installed longer racing studs. The ONLY problem is the locking lug. For some reason it has a shorter internal dimension for the stud shank than the others. I had to cut about 1/4 to 3/8 off stud unthreaded end which is enough to have the lug seat properly.
If u have pics that would be good to see.