Spliced wire. What to do?

[Billy Mild]

In the process of taking my chip out of the ZR1 I noticed a spliced wire for the ECU wiring harness. Attached is a picture. What should I do to remedy this issue?

[Dynomite]

In the process of taking my chip out of the ZR1 I noticed a spliced wire for the ECU wiring harness. Attached is a picture. What should I do to remedy this issue?

First.....it is difficult from the photo to identify the wire (wires) and it is difficult to determine if a wire was pulled completely. Pull the Plug, Remove the pins, solder the suspect wires to the correct pins, re-insert the pins.

But first find out what the owner (former owner) was attempting to do.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite17/f2e60c07-70f8-4f9c-82a0-2488c284a119.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite17/f2e60c07-70f8-4f9c-82a0-2488c284a119.jpg.html)

[RussMcB]

I guess I'd figure out what wire that is, then guess what they were trying to do when they cut it, then decide next steps.

On edit: What Dynomite said. :-)

[Billy Mild]

The wire looks to have been cut, then put back together with some tape to hold it. The wire is green/white.

[GOLDCYLON]

I would unpinit from the harness plug. Make sure the splice is ok then heat shrink wrap over the area. Re pin it. Not much else you can do.

[Dynomite]

The wire looks to have been cut, then put back together with some tape to hold it. The wire is green/white.

It appears that the wire is long enough to re-establish the connection without the splice.

[GOLDCYLON]

It appears that the wire is long enough to re-establish the connection without the splice.

Yep possibly

[WVZR-1]

The green/white if that's the actual color looks to only be used in A17, A19 of connector A. A-17 (817 - A VSS signal CCM/ETC) & A-19 (fuel pump relay driver).

FSM 6E3-A-13 for connector pin-out.

6E3-A-12 for circuit 817 A-17 routing explained and NOW MAYBE A FSM ERROR and an explanation, A19 is maybe misidentified as A1 on 6E3-A-7 for circuit 465 fuel pump relay driver. I checked a '90 and a '92 and it's identified as A19 on both routing explanations.

On 6E3-A-6 A1 is correctly ID'd as A1 (black circuit 841 INJ CONTROL) in the '91 FSM.

If the pinning is secured and you have no functionality issues maybe just clean up the splice (confirm all strands are utilized) and use some appropriate heat-shrink to pretty it up. Recreating the pinning might be overkill if the cars a driver. You know it's there and if you had issues with whichever circuit you know where to go. You start twisting/tweaking connectors you could create worse.

OP - I assumed you have the FSM. If not I could post all pages that I've mentioned.

[MuRCieLaGo]

It happened to me a few weeks ago and I posted a thread about this.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26294

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/TiGarsRotatif/12472584_10157062416995221_1376886087575791870_n.j pg

The local car electric shop charged me $20 to fix it. "Hardest" part was to search in the FSM to find in which hole the wire goes.

[WVZR-1]

OP - did you ever determine which pin location was actually cut-spliced. Your situation is different from the previous post in as much as it would seem the PO (or someone) was attempting something. Either maybe fuel pump diagnostics OR perhaps they had thought they could use the ECM VSS output for an ERA/DRA for speedometer correction. Does the car have a rear gear change?

[XfireZ51]

It appears that the wire is long enough to re-establish the connection without the splice.

That would be my first alternative. Don't trust splices on an ECM harness. But definitely make sure u have the slack for removing and twisting the harness when taking the chip out.

[WVZR-1]

That would be my first alternative. Don't trust splices on an ECM harness. But definitely make sure u have the slack for removing and twisting the harness when taking the chip out.

A splice done properly is as effective as the original crimp to pin (maybe more so dependent upon the device used to do the re-pin crimp/seal). I mentioned making sure all the "strands" are utilized, that's sufficient and certainly less manipulation of the connector and harness.

[Hog]

A splice done properly is as effective as the original crimp to pin (maybe more so dependent upon the device used to do the re-pin crimp/seal). I mentioned making sure all the "strands" are utilized, that's sufficient and certainly less manipulation of the connector and harness.

If splicing is unavoidable it's GM SOP to properly splice wiring. Crimp, solder, seal is their motto IIRC. GM supplies fuel pumps and fuel pump harnesses and Mass Air Flow wiring harnesses that require splices.


I found this tidbit from my GM files
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXX
Splicing Two Wires
The crimp-and-seal splice sleeve is recommended for splicing two
wires together. It has several advantages, including:
• It is easy to use. Only one part is needed to complete the
splice and it does not require soldering.
• When heated, the glue-lined sleeve bonds to the wire
insulation, creating an excellent environmental seal. This
makes it perfect for use both inside and outside the vehicle.
• The bond between the splice and the wire, added to the wire
crimp, creates a very strong splice.

The table in Figure 27(Ive copied it below) lists available crimp-and-seal splice sleeves.
As previously noted, these parts include a glue-lined tube that,
when heated, shrinks over the wires to seal them off from the
environment. To assure reliable splicing, always select the splice
sleeve properly sized and designed for the wire gauge in use.
The butt-splice sleeve can be used for applications that do not
require sealing, such as those inside the passenger compartment of
the vehicle. It does not, however, create as strong a splice as that of
the crimp-and-seal splice. Do not use unsealed buttsplice sleeves
for splices that will be located outside the passenger compartment
of the vehicle.

GM Recommended splicing procedure:
1. Strip about 3/8" of the insulation from the ends of the two
wires to be spliced (Figure 25).

2. Insert stripped wires into the splice sleeve until they reach
the wire stop located at the center of the sleeve (Figure 26).

3. Crimp the splice sleeve on each end. Each wire must be
crimped individually. For proper placement, see Figure 28.
(Note: Use the appropriate crimp tool designed specifically to
use with both crimp-and-seal and butt-splice sleeves.)

4. For crimp-and-seal splice sleeves: Using a hot air gun, apply
heat to the splice sleeve. As the sleeve shrinks, the glue inside
will begin to melt. When the sleeve stops shrinking and glue
appears at the ends of the sleeve (Figure 29), remove heat.
Allow to cool.

Here are the GM part numbers for the GM approved CRIMP-AND-SEAL SPLICE SLEEVE splicing devices

PART NUMBER (SLEEVE COLOR) WIRE SIZE
English(gauge) Metric
12089189 (Salmon) 18-20 0.80-0.50
12089190 (Blue) 14-16 2.00-1.00
12089191 (Yellow) 10-12 5.00-3.00
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX


There is also another GM document dealing with splices using a splice clip. This is where you would involve soldering, as well as sealing and crimping.

Let me know if anyone is interested.

[WVZR-1]

The GM procedure is quite well documented in the "Repair Procedures" section of every FSM. 8A and likely 5 - 9 pages. We always used splice clips and near NEVER the splice sleeves that are mentioned. Leaving no loose strands and the proper crimping device for the terminal type is most important. Talented people can use a very generic crimping tool but seldom are others successful. When we saw what looked to be a repair of something "other than" correct devices the splice or terminal termination generally failed the "tug test".