Oil Cooler Line replacement

[BlackSheepz]

Hello all!
Sorry if this is posted somewhere and I just can't find it, but I'm trying to figure out if there is a commonly accepted practice to changing the oil cooler lines.

I looked through a lot of Dynomite's stuff and there is a great article on how to make your own braided metal hoses (Jerrys Gaskets looks like they have some really nice Oil Cooler line hoses), but I did not see the process for changing the parts on the car.

This of course, is assuming there is more to it than draining the oil, and just changing the parts.... If that's the case, no problemo. I just wanted to check.

Thanks in advance!

Marc

[Dynomite]

Hello all!
Sorry if this is posted somewhere and I just can't find it, but I'm trying to figure out if there is a commonly accepted practice to changing the oil cooler lines.

I looked through a lot of Dynomite's stuff and there is a great article on how to make your own braided metal hoses (Jerrys Gaskets looks like they have some really nice Oil Cooler line hoses), but I did not see the process for changing the parts on the car.

This of course, is assuming there is more to it than draining the oil, and just changing the parts.... If that's the case, no problemo. I just wanted to check.

Thanks in advance!

Marc

Let the Z sit over night, then disconnect the oil lines from oil filter adapters and remove center bolt from oil cooler dual flange. Reverse process to install new oil cooler lines.
Do NOT Drain any oil. There will be some oil in oil cooler hoses.

There are two "O" rings on the oil cooler dual flange.


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite15/5159361d-e3bd-435b-b24c-7603ebb732b8.jpg.

[efnfast]

Didn't Jerry have some of these made up?

[BlackSheepz]

Didn't Jerry have some of these made up?

He does, and I have a set on their way to me now. I just couldn't find a definitive answer as to if there was a correct way to do it.


Thanks Dynomite! You are a Hero among Men for all of your knowledge and documentation! Assuming my parts get here, I know what I"m doing this weekend!

[Demps]

Sometimes the oil pump side causes the threaded fitting to back out of the pump. May have to put a wrench on the nut coupling and tap wrench with a hammer to break nut loose.
Ted

This isn't clear until you do it...sorry.

[BlackSheepz]

Thought this was due for an update. Sorry if this seems boring to you since this is in theory a 30 minutes job but not to spoil anything, it took me a little longer than that....

-----
OK, so first off I was super impressed with Jerry's Gaskets shipment of the oil cooler lines that they sent me. Awesome looking lines, parts all separated into their own bags with part numbers and sizes on them in the event that one got lost or ect. It even came with a printout of instructions including all the tools I would need, and photos to go along with it.

Says at the top, this should take 30 minutes if you have the right tools. Sweet!

It took me 6.5 hours.

Weekend#1 (3.5 hours) After letting the car sit for a few days (she isn't a DD) I started the process. All the hoses came off everything looked good, and I cleaned up as much oil as my hands could get to. Unfortunately he fittings going from the engine to the lines were absolutely stuck. Stuck like Hercules himself tightened the damn things to the engine block. After 3 trips to the store, not even a 1-1/8 DEEP socket and a 3' pipe along with a healthy dose of liquid wrench was enough torque to get the first one off. At this point I realized I was starting to deform the fittings instead of remove them. After calling Ted Dempsey and David Hetrick (who are both incredible whom you should shake hands with if you ever meet them) I played with it some more before giving up and putting the original parts back on. Car started up, leak was still where it always was. That was the good news.

http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag83/mlebryk/2016-03-26%2018.09.04_zpsnhkaewwy.jpg

Weekend #2 (yesterday, the next 3 hours). After talking to David and Ted, the thought process was that instead of doing the repair cold as Dynomite suggested; I needed to warm the engine up to temp and then do the repair. (This of course was preferential to using a torch to heat the parts). SO I started the car, let her warm up to temperature and then dove in. Again, the hoses came right off, and this time after again a significant effort the fittings to the engine did as well. VICTORY.

Well. Almost.

After the fittings came off, I followed the directions provided. Oiled the threads, little bit locktite and hand threaded them until tight then tightening with the wrench. The next step was to attach the longer of the two hoses to the bottom. One was about 1/2" longer than the other and after thoroughly making sure I had the correct one I attached it. Then the top.

This is where my next problem came into play. The hoses were probably about 1/2"-1" too long. I couldn't get the hoses to bend into place to where I could attach the adapter to the oil cooler. It didn't matter what I did. I took the hoses back off, re attached everything, re confirmed the length of the hoses. Didn't matter how hard I pushed or twisted.

So I did the unthinkable, I installed them in the reverse order. I put the gaskets in place, and ratcheted the adapter to the oil cooler. I then fed the hoses into the engine block requiring a coat hangar wrapped in duct tape to pull on the lines to keep them going straight into the block while I tightened the hoses. I was finally done.

I started the car.

She was dripping oil from the upper hose going into the oil cooler. I tightened it, took it for a quick drive and everything seemed fine. After cleaning up any oil that missed the oil pan or the cardboard under car I parked her again to notice she was still dripping oil. The engine was still close to temperature so I decided to wait until today when I knew it would be cold in good ol Indiana to tighten the bolts again.

Once the bolts were tightened, I then started her up. Not dripping a single drop. Backed her into the driveway, changed out the cardboard in the garage under the car, let her run for about 15 minutes and parked her again. No oil in the driveway. What a relief.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag83/mlebryk/2016-04-03%2020.31.00_zpsjkwgoozf.jpg

On a side note, Demps would be happy to know that while I was doing this I bumped a vacuum line. It fell apart. I put it all back together, tightened it and this solved my vacuum leak (well sort of). Instead of the pump running non stop it runs for about 3 seconds, stops for 15 seconds or so, then runs again for a few seconds, and continues on that way. Again, this is instead of running non stop so I'll take it as an ancillary victory.

Next up is the Injectors, but I think this weekend we'll take her out for a cruise instead of tearing her apart. Thanks again to Ted and David for the phone help! :cheers:

[Dynomite]

The TRICK to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage. The issue using a Deep Socket is that the torque is applied too far out causing the socket to twist off the fitting. With the box wrench there is no twisting off the fitting with all torque applied directly to the fitting flats.

ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148468)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/fa47d622-5899-4be6-a795-fef40b3adaa2.jpg

[BlackSheepz]

That's a GREAT tip Dynomite!

Unfortunately the damage I did in the first photo was from a box wrench. Open end. I tried the closed end also but no luck there either. That's why I bought the deep socket, and in the end the socket on the second day is what got the flare fitting off the engine while hot. (I did try the box wrench again with the engine hot, but no luck there again).

I appreciate the suggestions Dynomite, your technical articles are second to none and I've been reading your fuel injector stuff like crazy! Thanks Again!



The TRICK to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage. The issue using a Deep Socket is that the torque is applied too far out causing the socket to twist off the fitting. With the box wrench there is no twisting off the fitting with all torque applied directly to the fitting flats.

ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148468)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/fa47d622-5899-4be6-a795-fef40b3adaa2.jpg

[Demps]

Glad it's fixed--both the oil leak & vacuum.

Injectors are fun. Be careful with all of the brittle "stuff".

Ted

[Fully Vetted]

I started putting my hoses on tonight and ran into the same issue with the fittings being incredibly tight. I finally got them off but what's weird is when I checked the torque specs it is only 39 in lbs. I'm sure due to the aluminum. I used anti seize because of the steel fitting going into aluminum. Should I have used Loctite instead?

Also, has anyone else come across an issue of the shroud not having enough clearance for the new hoses? I'm going to have to cut or grind a relief in the shroud in order to get the hoses on.

[GOLDCYLON]

I started putting my hoses on tonight and ran into the same issue with the fittings being incredibly tight. I finally got them off but what's weird is when I checked the torque specs it is only 39 in lbs. I'm sure due to the aluminum. I used anti seize because of the steel fitting going into aluminum. Should I have used Loctite instead?

Also, has anyone else come across an issue of the shroud not having enough clearance for the new hoses? I'm going to have to cut or grind a relief in the shroud in order to get the hoses on.

I did on the 91 I took a pair of sheet metal shears and nibbed the bottom corner of the lower shroud in a 45 degree angle. Then wiggling it out was easy. This was when I had to remove the shroud however they should clear without having to cut the shroud

[5ABI VT]

I almost forgot about these hoses. What was the reason for making replacements? common leak point or..?? :confused:

[GOLDCYLON]

I almost forgot about these hoses. What was the reason for making replacements? common leak point or..?? :confused:

Yes the OEM Units tend to leak over time.

[Dynomite]

And.......SS Braided Hose spices up the engine looks a bit ;)

And.......the SS hoses you can make yourself with screw tight fittings NEVER Leak as they can withstand considerably more pressure than the Stock Hoses.
And........The Screw Tight Fittings look a lot nice than the cheaper Crimp Fittings which are NOT repairable if you ever wanted to replace the hoses for any reason (external damage for example). Or if you wanted to replace with shorter or longer hoses for example (the fittings can easily be removed and placed on the New SS Hose).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite8/4e2773ea-b98d-4180-a56c-4eb6cd3699d6.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite8/67cfbdbe-4764-44fd-94d2-e03fafd4b640.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/C%20Engine%20LT5/79b54cb3-a864-4f5c-b659-f4099c360f7b.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Yes the OEM Units tend to leak over time.

And.......SS Braided Hose spices up the engine looks a bit ;)

And.......the SS hoses you can make yourself with screw tight fittings NEVER Leak as they can withstand considerably more pressure than the Stock Hoses.
And........The Screw Tight Fittings look a lot nice than the cheaper Crimp Fittings which are NOT repairable if you ever wanted to replace the hoses for any reason (external damage for example). Or if you wanted to replace with shorter or longer hoses for example (the fittings can easily be removed and placed on the New SS Hose).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite8/4e2773ea-b98d-4180-a56c-4eb6cd3699d6.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite8/67cfbdbe-4764-44fd-94d2-e03fafd4b640.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/C%20Engine%20LT5/79b54cb3-a864-4f5c-b659-f4099c360f7b.jpg

I'm chasing a small leak still and am wondering if I should go ahead and replace my hoses. Where do these leak? I need to ask Jerry if he has these in black.

[Dynomite]

I'm chasing a small leak still and am wondering if I should go ahead and replace my hoses. Where do these leak? I need to ask Jerry if he has these in black.
I think the only place the stock hoses leak is at the Crimp Fitting where it is crimped onto the hose.

The ones I use screw onto the hose (inside and out).

[GOLDCYLON]

I think the only place the stock hoses leak is at the Crimp Fitting where it is crimped onto the hose

That's where they normally leak. They weep over time and the hoses become hard and brittle

[Fully Vetted]

When you replace those lines make sure you use a longer bolt on the block on the oil cooler end. That block is 1/4 in. thicker than stock and the stock bolt is too short.

[Livin' in the 80's]

Has anyone tried the ZIP-Corvette oil lines. I like the fact that they look like factory lines. Here is the link:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/90-95-lt5-oil-cooler-hose-set.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwk-jGBRCbxoPLld_bp-IBEiQAgJaftSV0kGrJZRJ43pec4aDnoJRfM7GEuQoJ1yot_1kx wRcaArw68P8HAQ

[Mystic ZR-1]

I installed a set from Zip a few years ago.
They fit fine and no leaks so far.

[Livin' in the 80's]

I installed a set from Zip a few years ago.
They fit fine and no leaks so far.

Awesome! Did it make a giant mess when you disconnected the lines? I am planning on stuffing rags all over the place to avoid oil all over the place.

[BigJohn]

I installed a set from Zip a few years ago.
They fit fine and no leaks so far.

You ever get the new radiator installed?

[Mystic ZR-1]

No big deal and not too much of a mess. Like you suggested, pack some rags under the connections. Getting the fittings on the motor can be tough, I used a large adjustable wrench because I had nothing that big. Once they're broken loose, you should be able to un-screw them by hand.

Big John: no, not yet, but soon...

[billschroeder5842]

I made the mistake of going with "OEM" equivalents which leaked from the hose after 500 miles.

I went with Jerry's and have been happy. Jerry's also have the benefit of being flexible so you can do a bit of routing and bending around other hoses for proper clearance.

I had less oil spill than you think, but lots of rags are the order. Remember the Teflon tape.

[Billy Mild]

Get Jerry's lines. Also don't go all he-man on it like I did or you will just break the seal from being too tight. Ask me how I know.

[Livin' in the 80's]

I rolled the dice on the Lines from ZIP and installed them last night. I used a 1 1/2" open ended wrench and tapped on the wrench with a lead hammer and they loosened right up. I used a little silicone to hold the rubber o rings in place like a glue. I didn't over tighten any of the fasteners.

http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu256/craigwhite84/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/oil%20lines1_zpsiuqr1ffs.jpg (http://s653.photobucket.com/user/craigwhite84/media/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/oil%20lines1_zpsiuqr1ffs.jpg.html)

http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu256/craigwhite84/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/oil%20lines_zpsrl6g61qf.jpg (http://s653.photobucket.com/user/craigwhite84/media/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/oil%20lines_zpsrl6g61qf.jpg.html)

[Livin' in the 80's]

Well, My roll of the dice didn't pay off. Don't buy the Oil Cooler lines from this place!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. One hose completely blew apart and made a huge mess. I will be having a discussion with ZIP on Monday. Pics to follow.

[billschroeder5842]

Sorry! That sucks! Get your money back from Zip and call Jerry. You could have your new lines dellivered and installed by Wednesday.

[Livin' in the 80's]

Sorry! That sucks! Get your money back from Zip and call Jerry. You could have your new lines dellivered and installed by Wednesday.

Asphalt driveway ruined-entire car covered in oil, garage oil filled, hopefully the engine is ok. total BS I will be letting everyone know the deal with this crap material

[Livin' in the 80's]

DO NOT buy ZIP oil cooler lines. Total garbage!!!!!!!!

http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu256/craigwhite84/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/ZIP%20Oil%20lines1_zpsjfdy3qh0.jpg (http://s653.photobucket.com/user/craigwhite84/media/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/ZIP%20Oil%20lines1_zpsjfdy3qh0.jpg.html)

http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu256/craigwhite84/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/ZIP%20Oil%20lines_zpshxlyaryx.jpg (http://s653.photobucket.com/user/craigwhite84/media/Snapbucket/1990%20Corvette%20ZR1%20Black%20on%20Black/ZIP%20Oil%20lines_zpshxlyaryx.jpg.html)

[billschroeder5842]

Catastrophic failure-- that sucks.

My OEM "new" (from Zip by the way) split after about 500 miles. I was lucky and got a steady drip-drip rather than an explosion.

[Mystic ZR-1]

Got mine from Zip about 5 years ago
and no leaks so far?

[Livin' in the 80's]

Got mine from Zip about 5 years ago
and no leaks so far?

Well if you hear the serpentine belt squealing, immediately stop. The line blew all over the the drive pulleys. I would feel them for bulging.

[Livin' in the 80's]

Do you have to use the steel fittings that go in the oil filter housing on Jerry's hoses? If so, What is the best stuff to use for sealing the threads? I want to get what ever I need to install the new Hoses. Also, any recommendations on cleaning quarts of oil off the engine compartment?

[billschroeder5842]

Do you have to use the steel fittings that go in the oil filter housing on Jerry's hoses? If so, What is the best stuff to use for sealing the threads? I want to get what ever I need to install the new Hoses. Also, any recommendations on cleaning quarts of oil off the engine compartment?

I used everything that came from Jerry's. If I remember, you cant use the fittings that on the engine. I kept mine however.

You will need a 1 1/8 and a 1 inch open end. Tape the inside so you don't scratch the paint on the fittings.

Oh, assemble the hoses to the oil cooler fitting prior to tightening the 10mm bolt to the cooler. My shroud made it impossible to get enough wrench on the fittings.

I used the teflon tape and have had no leaks so far.

As for cleaning, (yes, the jeers begin) I'll use bio-degradable stuff like"purple power" or "Simple Green) on the sides and front of the engine. I'm pretty careful about putting chemicals and water into/under the plenum. Yours is still fresh enough to wash off.

[Livin' in the 80's]

I used everything that came from Jerry's. If I remember, you cant use the fittings that on the engine. I kept mine however.

You will need a 1 1/8 and a 1 inch open end. Tape the inside so you don't scratch the paint on the fittings.

Oh, assemble the hoses to the oil cooler fitting prior to tightening the 10mm bolt to the cooler. My shroud made it impossible to get enough wrench on the fittings.

I used the teflon tape and have had no leaks so far.

As for cleaning, (yes, the jeers begin) I'll use bio-degradable stuff like"purple power" or "Simple Green) on the sides and front of the engine. I'm pretty careful about putting chemicals and water into/under the plenum. Yours is still fresh enough to wash off.

I might have to replace the serpentine belt or spray some kind of cleaner while running. Maybe Gunk engine cleaner?

This blows

[BigJohn]

Got mine from Zip about 5 years ago
and no leaks so far?

You know you just jinxed yourself don't you?

:neutral:

[billschroeder5842]

I might have to replace the serpentine belt or spray some kind of cleaner while running. Maybe Gunk engine cleaner?


You can use the bio degradable stuff on the belt- it really wont do anything to it. Spray it on with confidence and wash it off. The only surface area that wont get cleaned it where the pullies make contact--- which is comparatively small.

The Gunk is petroleum based and wont wash off that easy.

[GOLDCYLON]

Careful with cleaner around the serpent belt tensioner it might eat up the teflon tape inside the tensioner, GC

[ABBEZR1]

I replaced mine with one of Jerry's and also used everything it came with O-rings ect. I've been happy with it and has been installed for the last 4 to 5 years no leaks and about 3,500 hundred miles.

I must have been lucky because it only took me about 45 minutes with no issues...

[Livin' in the 80's]

You can use the bio degradable stuff on the belt- it really wont do anything to it. Spray it on with confidence and wash it off. The only surface area that wont get cleaned it where the pullies make contact--- which is comparatively small.

The Gunk is petroleum based and wont wash off that easy.

I took off the serpentine belt and washed the pulleys off with brake cleaner. Lightly cleaned the ac compressor clutch with brake clean and compressed air. I have let the Z drip dry of the oil since on my garage floor. The passenger tire is soaked on the inside and I will let the rest of the oil just fine its way south for a while and decide how to clean the rest. What a mess! There is a bulls eye on someone at ZIP at my house right now. Should I clean and keep the original serpentine belt? Would that matter to anyone in the future?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I took off the serpentine belt and washed the pulleys off with brake cleaner. Lightly cleaned the ac compressor clutch with brake clean and compressed air. I have let the Z drip dry of the oil since on my garage floor. The passenger tire is soaked on the inside and I will let the rest of the oil just fine its way south for a while and decide how to clean the rest. What a mess! There is a bulls eye on someone at ZIP at my house right now. Should I clean and keep the original serpentine belt? Would that matter to anyone in the future?

Sorry to hear about this. I can only imagine how :mad: you were/are with the quality of the Zip product.

I would recommend you get a new belt and toss the oil soaked one no matter how you clean it. For the price of the new belt just not worth in IMHO. Also recommend a Goodyear Gatorback belt if you can. Best wishes.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Sorry to hear about this. I can only imagine how :mad: you were/are with the quality of the Zip product.

I would recommend you get a new belt and toss the oil soaked one no matter how you clean it. For the price of the new belt just not worth in IMHO. Also recommend a Goodyear Gatorback belt if you can. Best wishes.

Good Advice on the belt!!!
Both replacing and the choice of Goodyear.

Also to original poster:
Do you know when it failed and under what conditions?
Acceleration?
High revs?
Cold engine/oil?
Simply unknown?

What is your oil pressure when cold after start up?
What failed on the hose that this one replaced?
Of course the hose should not have failed, but let's make sure that there is not more going on here other than a defective hose.
Just to be safe.
:cheers:
Marty

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Good Advice on the belt!!!

Both replacing and the choice of Goodyear.



:

Marty


Thanks for your thoughts Marty!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[A26B]

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Well, there we go!
That settles that question.
Case closed.

Note to file:
Only order replacement lines from Jerry's.

:cheers:
Marty

[Livin' in the 80's]

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Ordered your lines Jerry. Get them on the way please. Craig White in Southbury CT. Still haven't heard from ZIP - Emailed the President. The hose that was on it was only seeping at a crimp and the oil pressure was in normal operating area hot and cold. UGH!

[stuntmanmike]

Got Jerry's Gaskets kit, looks to be of very good quality.

Removed the old lines, and attempted to remove the adapter/fitting that's bolted to the oil filler area on the engine when it was cold, used another box wrench and all my strength to get leverage, which started to strip the fitting! I cursed, panicked a bit, thought about towing the car to a pro shop...went inside and re-read this thread.

I then put the old oil cooler lines back on, drove the car for a bit, got it hot. then took it all back apart. Engine warm, the fitting came right out with one wrench. Thanks guys

:proud:


....

-----
OK, so first off I was super impressed with Jerry's Gaskets shipment of the oil cooler lines that they sent me. Awesome looking lines, parts all separated into their own bags with part numbers and sizes on them in the event that one got lost or ect. It even came with a printout of instructions including all the tools I would need, and photos to go along with it.

Says at the top, this should take 30 minutes if you have the right tools. Sweet!

It took me 6.5 hours.

Weekend#1 (3.5 hours) After letting the car sit for a few days (she isn't a DD) I started the process. All the hoses came off everything looked good, and I cleaned up as much oil as my hands could get to. Unfortunately he fittings going from the engine to the lines were absolutely stuck. Stuck like Hercules himself tightened the damn things to the engine block. After 3 trips to the store, not even a 1-1/8 DEEP socket and a 3' pipe along with a healthy dose of liquid wrench was enough torque to get the first one off. At this point I realized I was starting to deform the fittings instead of remove them. After calling Ted Dempsey and David Hetrick (who are both incredible whom you should shake hands with if you ever meet them) I played with it some more before giving up and putting the original parts back on. Car started up, leak was still where it always was. That was the good news.

http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag83/mlebryk/2016-03-26%2018.09.04_zpsnhkaewwy.jpg

Weekend #2 (yesterday, the next 3 hours). After talking to David and Ted, the thought process was that instead of doing the repair cold as Dynomite suggested; I needed to warm the engine up to temp and then do the repair. (This of course was preferential to using a torch to heat the parts). SO I started the car, let her warm up to temperature and then dove in. Again, the hoses came right off, and this time after again a significant effort the fittings to the engine did as well. VICTORY.

Well. Almost.

After the fittings came off, I followed the directions provided. Oiled the threads, little bit locktite and hand threaded them until tight then tightening with the wrench. The next step was to attach the longer of the two hoses to the bottom. One was about 1/2" longer than the other and after thoroughly making sure I had the correct one I attached it. Then the top.

This is where my next problem came into play. The hoses were probably about 1/2"-1" too long. I couldn't get the hoses to bend into place to where I could attach the adapter to the oil cooler. It didn't matter what I did. I took the hoses back off, re attached everything, re confirmed the length of the hoses. Didn't matter how hard I pushed or twisted.

So I did the unthinkable, I installed them in the reverse order. I put the gaskets in place, and ratcheted the adapter to the oil cooler. I then fed the hoses into the engine block requiring a coat hangar wrapped in duct tape to pull on the lines to keep them going straight into the block while I tightened the hoses. I was finally done.

I started the car.

She was dripping oil from the upper hose going into the oil cooler. I tightened it, took it for a quick drive and everything seemed fine. After cleaning up any oil that missed the oil pan or the cardboard under car I parked her again to notice she was still dripping oil. The engine was still close to temperature so I decided to wait until today when I knew it would be cold in good ol Indiana to tighten the bolts again.

Once the bolts were tightened, I then started her up. Not dripping a single drop. Backed her into the driveway, changed out the cardboard in the garage under the car, let her run for about 15 minutes and parked her again. No oil in the driveway. What a relief.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag83/mlebryk/2016-04-03%2020.31.00_zpsjkwgoozf.jpg

On a side note, Demps would be happy to know that while I was doing this I bumped a vacuum line. It fell apart. I put it all back together, tightened it and this solved my vacuum leak (well sort of). Instead of the pump running non stop it runs for about 3 seconds, stops for 15 seconds or so, then runs again for a few seconds, and continues on that way. Again, this is instead of running non stop so I'll take it as an ancillary victory.

Next up is the Injectors, but I think this weekend we'll take her out for a cruise instead of tearing her apart. Thanks again to Ted and David for the phone help! :cheers:[/QUOTE]