Morning clutch problems

[Steve Trien]

I have a 94 ZR1 (21,000) miles. When I start it after several days (3+) of standing idle, the clutch feels as if it is out of fluid (which I do not believe it is. If the clutch and break fluid reservoir are one and the same, it appears full.) After driving a few miles (approx. 3) the clutch operates normally. What do you think my problem is?

Sincerely, steve.trien@trien.net

[Dynomite]

If the clutch and break fluid reservoir are one and the same, it appears full.

Clutch Fluid Reservoir is located under the ECM. Remove the ECM and check the Clutch Fluid.
Brake Fluid Reservoir is in front of ECM between ECM and Engine.

[GOLDCYLON]

Clutch Fluid Reservoir is located under the ECM. Remove the ECM and check the Clutch Fluid.
Brake Fluid Reservoir is in front of ECM between ECM and Engine.

Correct also if the fluid is dirty, syringe out the old fluid, Clean the clutch master reservoir and put fresh fluid in it and pump it a few times with the cap back on. If its still dirty repeat until clear. If fills up with clutch dust and changes the fluid a nice black color.

[secondchance]

I also have a 94 with 156,000 miles. I had a similar problem and attempted to replace the hydraulic clutch fluid by emptying from the top with a syringe, fill with new fluid, pump and syringe... - aka commando method. After repeated procedure, fluid was staying visually dirty. Eventually, I put a car on a lift, hooked up a large syringe (maybe 500 ml?) with a clear plastic tube to the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, opened the bleed valve and evacuated the fluid while another person filled the reservoir with new fluid until clear fluid was being pulled by the syringe. I believe original Fluid used by GM was DOT 3 brake fluid with anti-squeak additive. Some uses off the shelf DOT 3 brake fluid. I, to be sure, used GM fluid, part number 12345347. Run a search on Ebay or Amazon. They are still available. One 16oz bottle should do the job. If this doesn't cure the issue, most likely your seals maybe going bad. Could be either slave or master. Jim of Power Torque told me slave maybe the first to fail.

[oricale]

Slave IS usually to go first, the seals in the slave go bad and it leaks internally causing the perpetual discoloration. The slave will work for a while but it will fail, with a lift and a syringe its pretty simple to change it out. I would say change it before the springtime if possible.

[secondchance]

It was oricale (Dempsey) under the lift with syringe and me, standing on the lift, filling the reservoir as the fluid level went down.:cheers:

[XfireZ51]

I have used Ranger's method of a syringe to evacuate fluid from reservoir. It's worked pretty well for me over the last 5-6 years. You do need to monitor the fluid, which I do as part of my seasonal prep of the car along w fresh motor oil and filter. Also, don't forget that seals in the slave may have been installed in reverse. Something you may want to check. Seal reversal exacerbates the contamination of fluid.

[oricale]

It was oricale (Dempsey) under the lift with syringe and me, standing on the lift, filling the reservoir as the fluid level went down.:cheers:

:handshak::cheers: