Track Day Brake Pads

[RussMcB]

Looking for suggestions for track day pads - quality and price.

My car has stock J55 calipers, EBC rotors. The pads will be used for track only (I'll swap street pads out for events). I'll be using fairly sticky tires.

Last year I used Hawk Blue pads and they were okay, I guess, but not impressive. However, to be fair, perhaps they were fine and I just had unrealistic expectations. It was the first time in decades I have taken a big car to the track.

Thanks!

[Demps]

Carbotech.

Ted

[RussMcB]

Carbotech.

TedThanks. Which one?

Year Street Autocross Performance & Race Track
1988-1996 1521 AX6 XP8 XP10 XP12 XP20 XP24 RP2
F:CT412 $142 $165 $188 $210 $231 $270 $289 $250
R:CT413 $127 $145 $162 $178 $193 $225 $238 $208

Most of my sessions will be about 20 minutes/10 laps, probably not much more.

[Demps]

Send Shrek a PM. They were running them at VIR & it was impressive

Ted

[lbszr]

The hawk ht10 have done good for me.They are 300 to 1300 degrees. Blues are 1000 max, you might of reached their limit. The dtc70 are 1600 or 1700 max. I'm running brake ducts.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey Russ,

I can highly recommend the Porterfield AP412 R-4, Carbon Kevlar Racing Brake Pads:

http://www.lpiracing.com/Porterfield-R-4-Carbon-Kevlar-Racing-Brake-Pad-AP-412-R-4-762p198440.htm Give them a call and see what they recommend; they were very helpful and a lot of racing experience.

I went down to LPI racing and they recommended these to me for my run at Laguna Seca. I loved them and they held out really well. If you are interested, I'll sell you these for $125 shipped. They only have one day of track time on them novice class with Hooked On Driving so not much wear at all since I spend a lot of time in classroom and track familiarization. They only were pushed the second half of the day when I was allowed to go wide open with and without instructor.

The only reason I am selling them is I am moving soon and bought Wilwood big brake kit front/rear (did not install yet). As you can see in the photos, hardly used with tons or meat left.

[RussMcB]

Thank you for the replies, PM's and offers. More valuable than I could have hoped for.

[batchman]

For best results the ticket is to swap pads and rotors as sets. Pads transfer material to the rotor surface (search bedding) and this is the friction mechanism.

HTH/GL,
- Jeff

[RussMcB]

For best results the ticket is to swap pads and rotors as sets. Pads transfer material to the rotor surface (search bedding) and this is the friction mechanism.

HTH/GL,
- JeffGood suggestion, thanks. Craig and Shrek offered rotors and pads for good prices, so I'll be able to do what you suggest.

Shrek is also sending me titanium backing plates. I've heard from a couple of smart folks that they'll help a lot to help prevent heat transfer to the caliper pistons and brake fluid.

Thanks again, everyone.

[lbszr]

I use the titanium plates also, I have never put them in when the pads are new, I think they will fit, but I thought they were kind of snug. Thought about try one on the piston side when they were new.

I also use Drm stainless pistols. I haven't had a boil yet. I have ran temp stickers on the calipers a while back, the piston area went over 230, the next sticker was 320, it didn't seem to reach that one. I have had them hotter since, because I felt a little fade at bowling green track for the first time.

Drm youtube sold me on the piston, https://youtu.be/IUMMn0ZY1So. I don't know if that's a good link, a search for drm stainless piston will find it. Not a exciting video, but interesting.

[RussMcB]

I use the titanium plates also, I have never put them in when the pads are new, I think they will fit, but I thought they were kind of snug. Thought about try one on the piston side when they were new.

I also use Drm stainless pistols. I haven't had a boil yet. I have ran temp stickers on the calipers a while back, the piston area went over 230, the next sticker was 320, it didn't seem to reach that one. I have had them hotter since, because I felt a little fade at bowling green track for the first time.

Drm youtube sold me on the piston, https://youtu.be/IUMMn0ZY1So. I don't know if that's a good link, a search for drm stainless piston will find it. Not a exciting video, but interesting.More great advice. Thank you. I agree - The video isn't exciting, but convincing.

I'll probably order some, assuming this price is for both front calipers. Anyone know (saving me a call to them)?

http://dougrippie.com/products/c4-stainless-steel-caliper-pistons/

Thanks also for mentioning that the titanium backing plates might be too tight for new pads. Hadn't thought of that...

[lbszr]

More great advice. Thank you. I agree - The video isn't exciting, but convincing.

I'll probably order some, assuming this price is for both front calipers. Anyone know (saving me a call to them)?

http://dougrippie.com/products/c4-stainless-steel-caliper-pistons/

Thanks also for mentioning that the titanium backing plates might be too tight for new pads. Hadn't thought of that...

Yes, it was 4 piston.

When you put the seals in, I think it also depends what pads you will run, hawk hp plus would burn holes in the dust seal probably cause they were overheating and chunks coming off. For years I've cut the majority of the dust seal off and just used the portion that fits in the groove to act like a dust scraper, like a o ring, with the bellows partially melted away I hought it was worse than not having at all since race calipers don't use them. And to keep dirt out I also extend the pistons partially and clean them before pushing them in for new pads. Actually the seals have been like that for 4 years now. Just an option if you have problems with the seal melting. Some just totally leave the dust seal removed.