Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall

[secondchance]

Perhaps the best place to start is my understanding of sequence of assembly based on tear down.

Based on what I saw, windshield frame consists of two box sections (one each side) joined at the top by a box section header.
To this frame, windshield is glued on using black urethane caulking (I think).

First moulding to go on are "L" section powder coated side trim pieces. These trim pieces (one for each side) have black formed vinyl strips attached on the inside (I think they these vinyl strips had adhesives on both sides). Factory assembly relied on these vinyl strips to keep the water out.
These side trim pieces with vinyl strips on the inside were attached to the "A" pillar with dabs of urethane followed by drilling and sheet metal screws. This means hole locations vary from car to car.

Below is the back side of side trim piece with vinyl strip.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/side%20trim%20and%20flashing_zpsvlg6yoiz.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/side%20trim%20and%20flashing_zpsvlg6yoiz.jpg.html)

Once both side trims were in place, top trim piece (with vinyl strip, or flashing attached) was located with urethane caulk dabs followed by sheet metal screws.

Below is the bottom of the top piece with vinyl strip.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/header%20trim%20amp%20flashing_zpsx5d6ig04.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/header%20trim%20amp%20flashing_zpsx5d6ig04.jpg.htm l)

This top piece consists of two powder coated aluminum pieces riveted together.

Above was followed by outer "channel" trim attached to the side trim via double sided tape, drilled and screwed to the "A" pillar.

Below is driver side trim (left) and "channel" trim (right).
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/side%20trim%20amp%20channel_zpsweruenqd.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/side%20trim%20amp%20channel_zpsweruenqd.jpg.html)

Once side channel trim was attached dabs of rubber glue was put on side channel trims and top channel trim to which weatherstrip was attached and squeezed into. Weather strip is further held in place at top left, top right and bottom sides (behind the door edge) with black plastic push pins shaped like roofing nails.

Below is the picture of top trim with "channel" trim.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/header%20trim-top%20view_zpsyah7wipr.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/header%20trim-top%20view_zpsyah7wipr.jpg.html)

Once you understand the sequence of assembly it helps with the removal.

First step of dis-assembly is removal of weatherstrip. First remove black plastic tabs. I normally start on the driver side. grab the bottom of the weatherstrip, pul up as much as I can, find where it is glued and, using a long retractable razor, cut the rubber cement as close to the channel strip as possible. Out of 4 weatherstrips I had removed, I was able to save one. Not perfect but good enough to use again. Having gone through these removals and resulting destruction, I do not use glue when I install new weatherstrip. I found "channel" design is such that the weatherstrip stays put on the trim and maintain water-tight seal even without any glue.

Once weather strip is removed, you will see exposed sheet metal screw heads. Some are T-15 torx and some are phillips heads.

Top trim: Remove the top trim, starting from one end, pull up gently, located where urethane caulking dabs are, cut through with long razor blade and the trim is lifted. Care must be taken not to attempt to remove simply by pulling up. If you bend this trim while removing, you will be busy trying to find and buy a replacement - not fun nor cheap!

Side trims: Remove all exposed sheet metal screws on both sides. Grab the "channel" shaped out side trim at one end and using a long, flexible razor cut the double sided tape as the trim is pulled. Care must be taken not to be the trim excessively. Once outside trims are removed, you will see a few more sheet metal screws holding the "L" shaped trims to he "A" pillar. Remove screws and using a long flexible razor, locate where it's glued down with urethane caulk, and cut through, releasing the trim.

When above steps are completed, windshield is ready for removal/reinstall.

Now, for the reinstall - obviously reverse of above is the logical process. However, not having a fresh trim mouldings with brand new vinyl strips neatly attached to the inside of the trims is what makes it tricky.

If you insist on NCRS level reinstall, using 3M double stick tape, attach vinyl strips for the sides and the top onto the windshield/"A" pillar/header. Front edges of the vinyl strip should not have double stick tape. Otherwise, you will see grey tape after the install - not good!

Once vinyl strips are in place, apply double stick tape on top of vinyl strips on sides and top. Again, leave about 1/4" of the front free of double stick tape.

Now, attach side trims by attaching to exposed double stick tape followed by sheet metal screws.

Once both side trims are in place, locate, attach and screw down top trim.

Attach outside "channel" trims to the outside, side trims using double sided tape followed by sheet metal screw.

With all trim mouldings mounted, install new weatherstrip. I normally start at the middle of the top piece and work down to both sides.

One tip - I stretch the double stick tape during this install process to reduce the thickness of the tape as much as possible. This helps to keep trims as flush with the windshield as much as possible.

My last install per above was on Jim's (QB93) 95 Z. He tells me he had no issue with water infiltration. However, if water leakage is the issue, I would use masking tape on the outside edge of the trim, mask off the windshield, and go around the edge with either black silicone or urethane caulking.

Good luck!

[Dynomite]

Thank You :thumbsup: :handshak:


Added to 7th Post of -Solutions- under EXTERIOR
Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25978)

[secondchance]

Glad to be of help.

Thanks!:cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey Yun, Thanks for taking the time to post this much detail that will help all to benefit from. It is greatly appreciated and I understand the time it takes to do this. I hope to see you in D.C. In a few weeks at the Auto Show. ��

[secondchance]

Hey, Craig!

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.

[RussMcB]

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.I'm sure I speak for a LOT (more) people when I post Thank You, too. This is great information that will be useful for many years.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey, Craig!

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.

Let's discuss this over lunch or dinner when I get to D.C. and I might end up removing off my trim myself. Heck, you convinced me to buy the Black/Black 95 and I'm thankful for that. Well, both you and Rich!:handshak:
If we meet this year, what's next a 380 for me?

[Dynomite]

Let's discuss this over lunch or dinner when I get to D.C. and I might end up removing off my trim myself. Heck, you convinced me to buy the Black/Black 95 and I'm thankful for that. Well, both you and Rich!:handshak:
If we meet this year, what's next a 380 for me?

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk :cheers:

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT :p

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk :cheers:

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT :p

Cliff, I think you're right and no one will be more careful that us as owners. I know I won't ever attempt pulling the glass and installing, but I did do a windshield replacement on my 68 Z/28 myself way back in the day. I have way too many projects and not enough time (still have not installed my bigger brakes set up or headers). Now I might be moving so I hope the windshield can be received and done before then or I'm screwed. I don't think they have Safelite in Japan...ha, ha.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk :cheers:

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT :p

By the way, do you want another windshield to do (its delaminated, but might not be as bad as yours) and add another red/saddle 90 Z to your collection (Since you are the 90-92 ZR-1 Specialist)? I have to sell my 90 soon.

[Dynomite]

By the way, do you want another windshield to do (its delaminated, but might not be as bad as yours) and add another red/saddle 90 Z to your collection (Since you are the 90-92 ZR-1 Specialist)? I have to sell my 90 soon.

I am looking at a 95 with high mileage engine so I can drop in my 95 Crate engine :p
Then I have another 91 engine I am doing a complete rebuild from bottom end to top end and have a ZFDoc rebuilt transmission with short shifter ready to go. For that one I am looking for a ZR1 with no engine or transmission but otherwise in nice shape :cheers:

[secondchance]

what's next a 380 for me?

380 is real sweet. It's so sweet, I have been dreaming of 4.125" bore x 3.75" crank = 400.973203 cu in. All I gotta do is cough up some money for a AES block, pistons and rods...:D

[Dynomite]

Just some quick questions after looking at some molding I have off a 1990 (L98) and the window on a 1991 ZR-1.
I figure out the vinyl strips which are positioned under the 1/8 in lip of top molding as well as side molding.

Based on what I saw, windshield frame consists of two box sections (one each side) joined at the top by a box section header. To this frame, windshield is glued on using black urethane caulking (I think). This is the base window frame (not molding) the window sits in?

First moulding to go on are "L" section powder coated side trim pieces. These trim pieces (one for each side) have black formed vinyl strips attached on the inside (I think they these vinyl strips had adhesives on both sides). Factory assembly relied on these vinyl strips to keep the water out.
These side trim pieces with vinyl strips on the inside were attached to the "A" pillar with dabs of urethane followed by drilling and sheet metal screws. This means hole locations vary from car to car. This after the windshield is set into the base frame (possibly glued with black silicon)?

Once both side trims were in place, top trim piece (with vinyl strip, or flashing attached) was located with urethane caulk dabs followed by sheet metal screws. We are talking about the top edge of the windshield?

This top piece consists of two powder coated aluminum pieces riveted together.

Above was followed by outer "channel" trim attached to the side trim via double sided tape, drilled and screwed to the "A" pillar.The second set of screws with this piece covering up the first set of screws in the first piece?

Once side channel trim was attached dabs of rubber glue was put on side channel trims and top channel trim to which weatherstrip was attached and squeezed into. Weather strip is further held in place at top left, top right and bottom sides (behind the door edge) with black plastic push pins shaped like roofing nails. This is the rubber weather strip that is hard to find??

First step of dis-assembly is removal of weatherstrip. First remove black plastic tabs. What is the black plastic tab? I assume also the first step is to remove the Clear or Painted Top?

I normally start on the driver side. grab the bottom of the weatherstrip, pull up as much as I can, find where it is glued and, using a long retractable razor, cut the rubber cement as close to the channel strip as possible. Out of 4 weatherstrips I had removed, I was able to save one. Not perfect but good enough to use again. Having gone through these removals and resulting destruction, I do not use glue when I install new weatherstrip. I found "channel" design is such that the weatherstrip stays put on the trim and maintain water-tight seal even without any glue. This is the rubber weather strip each door window closes on and the weather strip that the top rests on?

Once weather strip is removed, you will see exposed sheet metal screw heads. Some are T-15 torx and some are phillips heads. There are 4 screws each side (the first set of screws) and 6 screws under the Top Weatherstrip (only one set of screws)?

Top trim: Remove the top trim, starting from one end, pull up gently, located where urethane caulking dabs are, cut through with long razor blade and the trim is lifted. Care must be taken not to attempt to remove simply by pulling up. If you bend this trim while removing, you will be busy trying to find and buy a replacement - not fun nor cheap! this is center Top Molding you are removing after you remove the 6 screws?

Side trims: Remove all exposed sheet metal screws on both sides. Grab the "channel" shaped out side trim at one end and using a long, flexible razor cut the double sided tape as the trim is pulled. Care must be taken not to bend the trim excessively. This after removing the first set of 4 screws attaching the bottom side molding to the window frame just under where the door window rests when door is shut, you are cutting the double back tape holding the two pieces of side trim togehter?

Once outside trims are removed, you will see a few more sheet metal screws holding the "L" shaped trims to he "A" pillar. Remove screws and using a long flexible razor, locate where it's glued down with urethane caulk, and cut through, releasing the trim. The 3 screws are removed and you are now cutting the bottom side trim from the base window frame?

When above steps are completed, windshield is ready for removal/reinstall.Is it glued to the base window frame or can you just push out from inside?

Now, for the reinstall - obviously reverse of above is the logical process. However, not having a fresh trim mouldings with brand new vinyl strips neatly attached to the inside of the trims is what makes it tricky.

If you insist on NCRS level reinstall, using 3M double stick tape, attach vinyl strips for the sides and the top onto the windshield/"A" pillar/header. Front edges of the vinyl strip should not have double stick tape. Otherwise, you will see grey tape after the install - not good!Have to look closely where the vinyl strips are located and when they were removed in the process?

Once vinyl strips are in place, apply double stick tape on top of vinyl strips on sides and top. Again, leave about 1/4" of the front free of double stick tape.I assume the vinyl strips I removed above are separate and not damaged and on top molding as well as two side moldings?

Now, attach side trims by attaching to exposed double stick tape followed by sheet metal screws. First side trim is attached with no silicon glue?

Once both side trims are in place, locate, attach and screw down top trim.Is this Top Trim glued down with silicon seal and 6 screws?

Attach outside "channel" trims to the outside, side trims using double sided tape followed by sheet metal screw. .Second side trim sticks to first side trim covering the 3 first set of screws?

With all trim mouldings mounted, install new weatherstrip. I normally start at the middle of the top piece and work down to both sides.What about the two push pins in the Weatherstrips?

One tip - I stretch the double stick tape during this install process to reduce the thickness of the tape as much as possible. This helps to keep trims as flush with the windshield as much as possible.

My last install per above was on Jim's (QB93) 95 Z. He tells me he had no issue with water infiltration. However, if water leakage is the issue, I would use masking tape on the outside edge of the trim, mask off the windshield, and go around the edge with either black silicone or urethane caulking.

[secondchance]

Just some quick questions after looking at some molding I have off a 1990 (L98) and the window on a 1991 ZR-1.
I am trying to also figure out the vinyl which is on top molding as well as side molding?

Based on what I saw, windshield frame consists of two box sections (one each side) joined at the top by a box section header. To this frame, windshield is glued on using black urethane caulking (I think). This is the base window frame (not molding) the window sits in? - Yes.

First moulding to go on are "L" section powder coated side trim pieces. These trim pieces (one for each side) have black formed vinyl strips attached on the inside (I think they these vinyl strips had adhesives on both sides). Factory assembly relied on these vinyl strips to keep the water out.
These side trim pieces with vinyl strips on the inside were attached to the "A" pillar with dabs of urethane followed by drilling and sheet metal screws. This means hole locations vary from car to car. This after the windshield is set into the base frame (possibly glued with black silicon)? - Yes. Typically caulking used to set the windshields, I believe, are urethane based.

Once both side trims were in place, top trim piece (with vinyl strip, or flashing attached) was located with urethane caulk dabs followed by sheet metal screws. We are talking about the top edge of the windshield? - Correct.

This top piece consists of two powder coated aluminum pieces riveted together.

Above was followed by outer "channel" trim attached to the side trim via double sided tape, drilled and screwed to the "A" pillar.The second set of screws with this piece covering up the first set of screws in the first piece? - second piece does not cover all but some screws used to attach the first trim moulding.

Once side channel trim was attached dabs of rubber glue was put on side channel trims and top channel trim to which weatherstrip was attached and squeezed into. Weather strip is further held in place at top left, top right and bottom sides (behind the door edge) with black plastic push pins shaped like roofing nails. This is the rubber weather strip that is hard to find?? - this is the front windshield weatherstrip. Hard to find and expensive. In 2013 I was able to buy an OEM piece. At the time this was $384 or so.

First step of dis-assembly is removal of weatherstrip. First remove black plastic tabs. What is the black plastic tab? I assume also the first step is to remove the Clear or Painted Top? - plastic tabs I am referring to are push pin type. Two at the lower ends tucked behind the front top edge of the door and one at the top of the A pillar (both sides). Yes. please remove the roof panel first.


I normally start on the driver side. grab the bottom of the weatherstrip, pull up as much as I can, find where it is glued and, using a long retractable razor, cut the rubber cement as close to the channel strip as possible. Out of 4 weatherstrips I had removed, I was able to save one. Not perfect but good enough to use again. Having gone through these removals and resulting destruction, I do not use glue when I install new weatherstrip. I found "channel" design is such that the weatherstrip stays put on the trim and maintain water-tight seal even without any glue. This is the rubber weather strip each door window closes on and the weather strip that the top rests on? - this piece seals front of the side windows and the front of the roof.

Once weather strip is removed, you will see exposed sheet metal screw heads. Some are T-15 torx and some are phillips heads. There are 4 screws each side (the first set of screws) and 6 screws under the Top Weatherstrip (only one set of screws)?- I can't remember exactly how many. Side trims have a few more screws exposed once the top trim is removed.


Top trim: Remove the top trim, starting from one end, pull up gently, located where urethane caulking dabs are, cut through with long razor blade and the trim is lifted. Care must be taken not to attempt to remove simply by pulling up. If you bend this trim while removing, you will be busy trying to find and buy a replacement - not fun nor cheap! this is center Top Molding you are removing after you remove the 6 screws? - yes.

Side trims: Remove all exposed sheet metal screws on both sides. Grab the "channel" shaped out side trim at one end and using a long, flexible razor cut the double sided tape as the trim is pulled. Care must be taken not to bend the trim excessively. This after removing the first set of 4 screws attaching the bottom side molding to the window frame just under where the door window rests when door is shut, you are cutting the double back tape holding the two pieces of side trim togehter? - yes.

Once outside trims are removed, you will see a few more sheet metal screws holding the "L" shaped trims to he "A" pillar. Remove screws and using a long flexible razor, locate where it's glued down with urethane caulk, and cut through, releasing the trim. The 3 screws are removed and you are now cutting the bottom side trim from the base window frame? - yes.


When above steps are completed, windshield is ready for removal/reinstall.Is it glued to the base window frame or can you just push out from inside? - windshield is glued on SOLID to the structure using urethane caulking. I had glass shop remove and install new windshield. Certainly will not simply "push out". I'm sure it has to be cut before being lifted out.


Now, for the reinstall - obviously reverse of above is the logical process. However, not having a fresh trim mouldings with brand new vinyl strips neatly attached to the inside of the trims is what makes it tricky.

If you insist on NCRS level reinstall, using 3M double stick tape, attach vinyl strips for the sides and the top onto the windshield/"A" pillar/header. Front edges of the vinyl strip should not have double stick tape. Otherwise, you will see grey tape after the install - not good!Have to look closely where the vinyl strips are located and when they were removed in the process? - yes. Typically the front edge of the vinyl strip is pretty much flush with the edge of the "L" shaped trim and the front of the header trim.

Once vinyl strips are in place, apply double stick tape on top of vinyl strips on sides and top. Again, leave about 1/4" of the front free of double stick tape.I assume the vinyl strips I removed above are separate and not damaged and on top molding as well as two side moldings? - three pieces and hopefully not damaged.

Now, attach side trims by attaching to exposed double stick tape followed by sheet metal screws. First side trim is attached with no silicon glue? - since you have double stick tape (on top of vinyl strip) I prefer not to use any silicone or urethane - less chance of caulking creating unnecessary mess.

Once both side trims are in place, locate, attach and screw down top trim.Is this Top Trim glued down with silicon seal and 6 screws? - again, I rely on double stick tape on top of the vinyl strip and screws to hold the trim in place.

Attach outside "channel" trims to the outside, side trims using double sided tape followed by sheet metal screw. .Second side trim sticks to first side trim covering the 3 first set of screws? - yes. I believe heads of some screws are exposed through a punched hole on the second trim.

With all trim mouldings mounted, install new weatherstrip. I normally start at the middle of the top piece and work down to both sides.What about the two push pins in the Weatherstrips? - as you work the weatherstrip, use the push pin location to locate the top corner on both sides.

One tip - I stretch the double stick tape during this install process to reduce the thickness of the tape as much as possible. This helps to keep trims as flush with the windshield as much as possible.

My last install per above was on Jim's (QB93) 95 Z. He tells me he had no issue with water infiltration. However, if water leakage is the issue, I would use masking tape on the outside edge of the trim, mask off the windshield, and go around the edge with either black silicone or urethane caulking.

No such thing as silly question. I can tell you have been probing under the weatherstrip!

[Dynomite]

No such thing as silly question. I can tell you have been probing under the weatherstrip!

I have in hand molding from 1990 (L98). I figured out the vinyl strips which are positioned under the 1/8 inch lip of top molding (from the dust and imprints of the vinyl on the top Molding) as well as under the 1/8 inch lip of the side molding. The vinyl strips being comingled with the double back tape as you describe. I only found one vinyl strip for the Top Molding but the side moldings also have the 1/8 inch lip so like you say......vinyl for two side moldings also :thumbsup:

Except for "popping" out the windshield, I think I can install a nice windshield myself. I do have a hammer :p

Thanks for the Details :handshak: